Concerned over nunttin?

[LiveWire]

If someone's basis for it being fine is that you can get it level, pull straight and minimum sway, I agree with that. My opinion about it not being a good idea is when both tires on the right side of the trailer blow out at the same time. It happens more often than you might think. The trailer yanks you to the side and your right rear truck tire is on the gravel before you even have a chance to correct. You have to turn left since the trailer is trying to go in the ditch. That further increases the angle of the trailer to the truck. With a bumper pull, the weight of the trailer is pushing sideways on the tail of the truck. You find yourself trying to decide to let it hit the ditch or end up in traffic coming from the other direction.

You can pull a 24 footer with that truck fine. You can drive a motorcycle on the street or a buggy on the dunes without a helmet. Do you want to?

People who have driven my rig say it tows like a dream. I still would like to get one of those Pro Pride hitches. Maybe then I'll be able to sleep when someone else is driving.

[fabr]

+1 but I'm not paying $2K + for the hitch.

[Engineer]

I have towed a 26' Haulmark for years with a half and one ton.  Never used any sway bars or load assists.  Given a choice I use the one ton, but the half works fine.  95 Chevy 350 automatic.  If there are hills I keep it out of OD to keep it from kicking up and down all the time.  A box trailer is a fairly tough pull if you like going 75-80.  Very rough on mileage if you have to stay out of OD.  You need a good brake controller.

I have never had any issues but I drive very defensively. YMMV

[Engineer]

Huh here I was looking for THE answer.  Maybe it is too big.   Gonna have to ponder.  Wonder why Dodge would list the  truck at 10,450?  (Depends on gears, yep, the truck has the right gears.)

Towing[1]:
5000 lbs - std
10,450 lbs - max
Payload[1]:
1670 lbs - max

Not too worried on the mirrors - extenders are cheap and brake controller is needed for the current trailer.     

I like the idea of 20' at 1k less.   Just have to find a cash buyer for my car hauler......

Lance, most class "C" motorhomes are rated less than the new trucks.  Any details here?  Type of motorhome year of F150? The 2x4 2011 with 5.0 is at 8,300#'s.

Wait....  It's a Dodge? 

[fastcorvairs]

Wait....  It's a Dodge? 

Hey carful there I tow with a Dodge. 

[fabr]

And a damn nice Dodge it is however,you have our sympathy.

[Yummi]

So this was getting frustrating.  Did some digging. 

How about this for an idea?   22' tip to tail 50* "V" nose custom built / color matched to the truck? 

Total empty weight would be 2400 # and total 8'6" wide deck would be 16' before the start of the incline for the "V."   Any color I want.  96-98 inch door and a door height of 71"  Brakes on one axle. 3/4" T and G floor, 1/2" Ply walls.  Total weight with car toys crap would be about 6k  with good aero for towing vs flat front.   Built here in Phoenix with a 5 year warranty. 

Cost?  About what i would pay for a flat front in white.  ($5,887 base plus adds if any and tax - so total more than my budget but not as bad as i would have thought. )

http://www.aztrailboss.com/index.html

(Photos number 37 / 38 in his gallery - can't hot link)

[fabr]

Pay the extra for brakes on both axles.

[Yummi]

Pay the extra for brakes on both axles.

Don't be all logical / practical on me.  That will cut into the 70 fund. 

[LiveWire]

V-nose front is not more aerodynamic. The air comes off the V and spreads out essentially making the swath you need to cut through the air wider. It needs to round back into the sides in order to be more aerodynamic.

The $2000 for the hitch does seem like a lot. Understanding the principal of how it works does not help matters because it makes me want to build something. With a bumper pull, when you turn left, the hitch goes right. With a fifth wheel, the nose of the trailer does not change direction until the tow vehicles rear axle has moved to the side. The PP and the Hensley Arrow hitches are like going from single A-arm to dual A-arm with camber gain. The virtual pivot point is pushed farther away. So with the hitch, it acts more like a fifth wheel. The problem with a fifth wheel is that the effect continues all the way until fully turned. The trailer will swing inside on turns. With the two links, the effect is reduced as the angle increases. So sharp turns into a driveway, it acts more like a regular bump pull. I was in an accident as a passenger when a trailer jack knifed even after tremendous efforts by the driver. I was holding the trailer brake controller while he was trying to bring it back. The sway was started when a patch of black ice was hit while cresting the top of a hill. The result was $16,000 in damage. It was all paid for by insurance, but I am willing to spend $2K to not be in that situation again.

[fastcorvairs]

Don't be all logical / practical on me.  That will cut into the 70 fund.

Don't need the 1/2 wall's.  Get the 1/4 inch and save yourself a ton of weight.  The plywood is not lending any structural strength that 1/4 won't do.  The ribbing and outer aluminum shell is where the strength comes from.  Ask them if they would do the inside wall in .04 aluminum.  Save even more weight.   Go with the 3M double back tape and save the weight of the rivet's to.  And before you say no fookn tape go to 3M's site and read up on some of the shitt they have now to put aluminum on with. 

[fabr]

Don't be all logical / practical on me.  That will cut into the 70 fund.

Then just but it with brakes on the one,buy your own brakes at a trailer supply store and put them on yourself. Completely bolt on. Buy on line pretty damn cheap.Only a bit of wire and a few crimp on connectors. Oooooppppppssssss, a bit too logical/practical,huh. 

[fabr]

V-nose front is not more aerodynamic. The air comes off the V and spreads out essentially making the swath you need to cut through the air wider. It needs to round back into the sides in order to be more aerodynamic.

The $2000 for the hitch does seem like a lot. Understanding the principal of how it works does not help matters because it makes me want to build something. With a bumper pull, when you turn left, the hitch goes right. With a fifth wheel, the nose of the trailer does not change direction until the tow vehicles rear axle has moved to the side. The PP and the Hensley Arrow hitches are like going from single A-arm to dual A-arm with camber gain. The virtual pivot point is pushed farther away. So with the hitch, it acts more like a fifth wheel. The problem with a fifth wheel is that the effect continues all the way until fully turned. The trailer will swing inside on turns. With the two links, the effect is reduced as the angle increases. So sharp turns into a driveway, it acts more like a regular bump pull. I was in an accident as a passenger when a trailer jack knifed even after tremendous efforts by the driver. I was holding the trailer brake controller while he was trying to bring it back. The sway was started when a patch of black ice was hit while cresting the top of a hill. The result was $16,000 in damage. It was all paid for by insurance, but I am willing to spend $2K to not be in that situation again.

I understand your point but  I drive very defensively when towing and have not been unfortunate enough to be in the situation. Hope to never be. I've pulled so many different trailers that I guess I just adapt easily to each size/type . All I care is that it pulls straight and has good brakes.

[Yummi]

V-nose front is not more aerodynamic. The air comes off the V and spreads out essentially making the swath you need to cut through the air wider. It needs to round back into the sides in order to be more aerodynamic.

I understand about air flow on the rear, wrap around effect, but logically the front being a "V" nose would be better.  Air and water act much the same and except a barge i have yet to see a boat with out a front bow.  I guess I dont understand that. 

[fabr]

+1. I've pulled both types and the v does cut the air better. IMO.