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"AP" General Discusion / car derived sxs
« Last post by Baloo on Today at 02:09:54 PM »
hello boys how you all doing over there

I have a hankering for a 2 seat  buggy preferably with a car engine and box, maybe a vw golf since they are common and cheap and have a huge range of power out puts form mild to wild

but you don't see many based on car components, was looking for inspiration or ideas really

anyone got any links to builds of buggies with car engines that have turned out well ?

Andy
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Chassis and Suspension / Re: 5 link rear sandcar suspension
« Last post by dsrace on Yesterday at 09:02:38 PM »
type on stubs do add width as they are longer than micro stubs.
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Chassis and Suspension / Re: 5 link rear sandcar suspension
« Last post by BrianN on Yesterday at 07:03:23 PM »
OK. I will continue building the suspension, and measure for axles next. My axles will be shorter, I think, because I am using stub axles at the bearing carriers to convert from type 1 to 930. This saved me a bunch of money, because I already had hubs and brakes that I like. I am fitting tubes to locate the links, now. Gonna be trial and error for a while, but that is how I work!! Darn, it is hot. Luckily, I still have my brothers tube bender. He is what a consider a real fabricator. He has built stuff, including race cars and exhaust (a special art in my opinion), that will blow your mind. Did I mention it is hot here? Looks like my width will be 86". I use an aluminum flat bed trailer. Looks like I will widen my front end, but that is in the future.

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Chassis and Suspension / Re: 5 link rear sandcar suspension
« Last post by dsrace on July 14, 2018, 09:23:23 PM »
i should meantion last time i measured the axles that way i wound up with rods 3/8" short but 3/8" is a same amount to adjust out with those 6061 sweded rods. or was for myaself.
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Chassis and Suspension / Re: 5 link rear sandcar suspension
« Last post by dsrace on July 14, 2018, 09:13:25 PM »
fast ( glenn) has provided the right info on axle length. with a 5 or 6 link i have measure from cv flange face ( where cv mounts to) to the same surface on the otherside and added 1/2" to 1" depending on cv's. that has alway gotten myself very close and the rest can be adjusted through the links. now with that being said i also always go 28" for max width. on this last conversion i do have to change tires and it is a paint but not the end of the world. 
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Chassis and Suspension / Re: 5 link rear sandcar suspension
« Last post by fabr on July 14, 2018, 08:02:54 PM »
I ordered axles way too long. Did I read on here to measure axles: with axles straight, level with ground, measure from back edges of both cv's, then add 1/2"? Also, what is the width of your cars from outside edges of paddle tires?

I have 2 @ 64" (flippin sxs's  5:),1 @ 90(IIFC) and 1 @ 98ish/paddles-96 with dirt tires. These numbers aren't exact but close enough.
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Chassis and Suspension / Re: 5 link rear sandcar suspension
« Last post by fabr on July 14, 2018, 07:50:53 PM »
Brian

The width of your car should be maintained to what the door opening in your car trailer is.or as wide as the front tires.  If your opening is 90 inches then you want to be able to drive your car in so keep the width at say 86/88 with paddles on.  That way you don't spend a lot of time changing tires going to and from the dunes. Many people do not but Fast's advice on that is very,very good advice from a convenience standpoint, if convenience is at all important to you ,follow it.  ;) ;)
I don't know where you got the infore on the axle measuring but it's way off.  From where you are at in the build you need to determine how wide you want the car, then you need to find your true travel of the suspension which is limited by the cv max anglebefore you can determine the axle length.  You pretty much need the suspension all hooked up to the car so you can then cycle it up and down to get the axle length.  Yup!What you will want is at full droop the axle will have about a quarter of and inch play back and forth. Then at the middle of the travel the same and then at the top the same.  Some people like to start at the mid way point and work up and then down.  That is a goal that may not be attainable due to many factors but there needs to be at the very least 1/8 inch axle end play throughout full suspension travel.You can take into account cv plunge when doing this also .It would be best if the cv plunge is limited but many times full plunge will be needed. This masument will come from the bottom of the cv cup on the wheel to the bottom of the cup on the transaxle.  use and old broom handle and cut and trim as needed then when you get where you want to be then mausere what you have and order up a new set or just bring me the long ones and I'll cut them down to fit.  Now that's an offer that shouldn't be left unused!!
Brian if you ever need help or want to talk about it just ring me up 316-655-3162 Ask for Glenn.

I need to add that all this this time you need to keep the angle of the axle at what the cv manufacture wants the cv's to be maxed out at.


 Good info for Brian right there. DS has been a big ,big help as well. One thing about DTS is there are many here that truly know what they know for sure.

Sorry to have hacked up your post fast but it was just easier.
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Chassis and Suspension / Re: 5 link rear sandcar suspension
« Last post by fastcorvairs on July 14, 2018, 07:20:34 PM »
Brian

The width of your car should be maintained to what the door opening in your car trailer is.  If your opening is 90 inches then you want to be able to drive your car in so keep the width at say 86/88 with paddles on.  That way you don't spend a lot of time changing tires going to and from the dunes.
I don't know where you got the infore on the axle measuring but it's way off.  From where you are at in the build you need to determine how wide you want the car, then you need to find your true travel of the suspension before you can determine the axle length.  You pretty much need the suspension all hooked up to the car so you can then cycle it up and down to get the axle length.  What you will want is at full droop the axle will have about a quarter of and inch play back and forth. Then at the middle of the travel the same and then at the top the same.  Some people like to start at the mid way point and work up and then down.  This masument will come from the bottom of the cv cup on the wheel to the bottom of the cup on the transaxle.  use and old broom handle and cut and trim as needed then when you get where you want to be then mausere what you have and order up a new set or just bring me the long ones and I'll cut them down to fit. 
Brian if you ever need help or want to talk about it just ring me up 316-655-3162 Ask for Glenn.

I need to add that all this this time you need to keep the angle of the axle at what the cv manufacture wants the cv's to be maxed out at. 
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Chassis and Suspension / Re: 5 link rear sandcar suspension
« Last post by BrianN on July 14, 2018, 06:51:59 PM »
I ordered axles way too long. Did I read on here to measure axles: with axles straight, level with ground, measure from back edges of both cv's, then add 1/2"? Also, what is the width of your cars from outside edges of paddle tires?

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UTV General Discussion / Re: Yamaha YXZ
« Last post by dsrace on July 11, 2018, 09:53:47 AM »
well u joints are a huge plus!!    so very little body roll huh well then thats got the rzr 1000 beat. the gearing would need to be done if for myself.  they make a supercharger kit for it also. you are right the axles cv's and diffns are the weak link but like you said thats all an option. well very good review.
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