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Offline fastcorvairs

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Re: motor break in
« Reply #15 on: January 29, 2009, 07:29:57 AM »
Quote from: Masterfabr on January 29, 2009, 05:49:00 AM
Just bear in mind that the machine shop must also be using modern techniques to provide you with properly prepped parts. If not there is NO break in procedure that is good.
I'm  :o
          Even shops with modern techniques can't do the job right if-en the dumb shi&***s using the machinery don't know what they are doing. I had a shop one time years ago that had the latest and Greatest Kwikway boring machine and when they were done boring the Cly's for one of my vair engines they drug up a big old 10 inch vice and clamped a cylinder in it and began to hone it.  Using a three legged hone in a 1/2 inch drill and some old motor oil. That's when I said woo ho.  I'll buy a honing machine and finish these my self. If I had not been on the seen I would have wound up with six cylinders that were about .01 out of round. 

       Using new techniques some times don't mean dink.  I have a Kwikway boring machine built in 1936 prewar that I can still hold .0005 in a bore top to bottom, bell and hourglass. and a Sunnen hone built in 1938 prewar that when finished with a cylinder will be with in .0001 out of round, taper and bell. 


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Offline fabr

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Re: motor break in
« Reply #16 on: January 29, 2009, 08:10:16 AM »
My bar is also a Kwikway (FN).Yes they are nice bars and will bore a true hole IF it has been properly adjusted and maintained. However I have to say that if you are able to use a manual hone  and take out .003  after boring and maintain .0001 straight ,round,bell,hourglass,etc. you are quite talented.  I AIM for .0001 but usually end up at .0002-.0003. It does tho ,as you pointed out,take a talented operator. The machines just help a bunch when used correctly.
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Offline fastcorvairs

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Re: motor break in
« Reply #17 on: January 29, 2009, 08:15:45 AM »
Properly adjusted and maintained are the key words here.  And yes .0001 is what I go for.  I'll settle on .0003 but If-en I take my time and get the bore to .0005 Then the hone has no problem getting the .0001.
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Offline fabr

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Re: motor break in
« Reply #18 on: January 29, 2009, 08:21:31 AM »
I agree.
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"There can be no divided allegiance here.  Any man who says he is an American,
but something else also, isn't an American at all.  We have room for but one
flag, the American flag... We have room for but one language here, and that is
the English language... and we have room for but one sole loyalty and that is a
loyalty to the American people."
Theodore Roosevelt 1907

-----------------------------------------------------------
 " You have all the right in the world to believe any damn thing you'd like, but you don't have the right to demand that I participate in your fantasy"

SPEC

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Re: motor break in
« Reply #19 on: January 29, 2009, 08:45:53 AM »
Quote from: Stomper on January 28, 2009, 10:48:35 PM
I just may ;D. In a post a couple of weeks ago, I believe it was in the "smowmobile engine question" thread about taking off the oil injection and premixing for snowmobile engines in buggies (may have been on minibuggy.com). I said, and I quote "I have over 7000 hard miles on my snowmobile with out any problems (knock on wood)". Well I should have knocked on alot more wood :-[ :'(. Right now my engine is all apart sitting on my workbench and I am waiting for my crank to return from a rebuild. This is why i asked your opinions on this subject. ???


Yup,
That's why every engine in every buggy I build has a block off plate and a premix sticker on the tank...Cracked lines sucking air, or a bad cable are the biggest culprits... But I have had a couple of pumps just get old and weak
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