rear hub bearing carrier

[LiveWire]

You can also use a bearing that is two tapered rollers together as one piece:

http://dtsfab.com/index/index.php?topic=1561.0

[Engineer]

You can also use a bearing that is two tapered rollers together as one piece:

http://dtsfab.com/index/index.php?topic=1561.0

That would be to easy. 

Hope you got some extremely accurate tools for making those crush sleeves...  Maybe a soft material like alum would be a good idea so you could actually make the sleeves long and then torque down on the nut to crush them till the bearings are right. That would allow you to torque them just a bit more as the bearings wear without dissasembly.

Fabr is right......  If your crush sleeve crushes, game over.

[Boostinjdm]

With tapered bearings, .001" here or there is going to make a big difference in preload.  With a 1" or so nut, 275 ft lbs of torque is actually applying many thousand lbs of pressure to the hub and crush sleeve.  A force not likely to be repeated during rough driving.  Tapered bearings themselves really don't need much for preload, that's why I say use a crush sleeve that can be crushed with torquing the nut.  In my mind, I'm thinking that the sleeve should just start to crush as you approach full torque on the nut.  So you can sneak up on the amount of preload, but still have a very solid surface for the hub to seat against.

[Boostinjdm]

You can also use a bearing that is two tapered rollers together as one piece:

http://dtsfab.com/index/index.php?topic=1561.0

I would think that on a heavy car, those bearings would be too close together to handle the abuse.  Even if the bearings survive, the carrier they are mounted in might not (tolerance wise).  The farther you can spread the bearings out at the wheel, the better off you'll be.

[fabr]

With tapered bearings, .001" here or there is going to make a big difference in preload.  With a 1" or so nut, 275 ft lbs of torque is actually applying many thousand lbs of pressure to the hub and crush sleeve.  A force not likely to be repeated during rough driving.  Tapered bearings themselves really don't need much for preload, that's why I say use a crush sleeve that can be crushed with torquing the nut.  In my mind, I'm thinking that the sleeve should just start to crush as you approach full torque on the nut.  So you can sneak up on the amount of preload, but still have a very solid surface for the hub to seat against.

Not how it works my man.

[chrishallett83]

The full-floating driven hubs on the trucks I used to work on didn't use a crush sleeve. You torqued the primary nut up until you got slightly less than the preload you wanted, then you reefed the lock nut up tight and located the locking collar. Doing the locking nut up tight jammed up against the primary nut, taking up the freeplay in the thread and gave you the exact preload you wanted. When you first start out it takes a couple of goes of doing it and re-doing it, but you get a feel for it quick smart.

[fabr]

Same as a front spindle on most cars. This is trying to compare apples to oranges.

[LiveWire]

That would be to easy. 

Nah, this would be too easy:

I would think that on a heavy car, those bearings would be too close together to handle the abuse.  Even if the bearings survive, the carrier they are mounted in might not (tolerance wise).  The farther you can spread the bearings out at the wheel, the better off you'll be.

I would say a full size Ford or Chevy 4x4 truck is pretty heavy and has no gap just like the bearings pictured above. The bearings in the first post I linked to are used in a production Busa powered two seater among other things.