Six to Four But defiantly not a down grade for Fast.

[chrishallett83]

Well back from LS but!  Go news bad news.

Had some really good rune's Friday when I first got down to LS.  Car ran strong and handled well for being a couple of hundred pounds lighter.  Was real happy.  Went light on it for the first run out and came back in and pulled the plugs to see how my fuel mix was doing.  Didn't want to see any silver spots on the the extrods and that was the case.  They look nice and light brown with a slight mix of light tan.  So back out and give it a good shake down.  Rune's hard all the way to 7500 RPM and still not on the rev limiter.  Max boost I seen was 12 pounds but really didn't have any place I could let it stretch it's legs out.  Will have to learn to drive all over again.  End of good news's.

Put the car to bed Friday night and was a happy camper.  Got up Saturday morning and started the car up and the lifter clatter that I though I had had turned into a louder clatter like a cracked piston or lose valve guide.  Engine was blowing blue oil smoke from the crank case breather vents and out the tail pipe. After it warmed up the blue smoke went away and the exhaust cleaned up and the clatter went away. OK mite have had about one quart of oil to much and that could have been some of the problem.  Took it out on the sand and was just starting to go across the face of a dune running hard in third gear but needing to shift down because I was going a little slow.  Hit second gear and that's when the week end ended.  All hell broke lose.  One huge bang and the tack hit the rev limiter the car got all loose and felt real funny.  Got it all shut down at the bottom of the hill and got out to check out what had happend.  Well a five dollar grade nine bolt that holds the lower two traverse links on the left rear had broke and let the lower front link drop. that inturn let the wheel fold in at the top breaking the top Travers link.  Long story short.  It took out the outer CV. Bent the axle broke the Travers arm bent the shock shaft.  But damm it was a blast while it lasted.  Pictures of the carnage will come later.  I didn't have a camera with me so I only have a phone picture of the car broke in the sand.  Soon as I get it all unloaded I'll get the picture off my phone and post up all the damage.  Will still have to figure out what the rattle and blue smoke is all about.

Damn!

Hopefully the engine clatter is nothing more than some sticky fingers.

[SPEC]

Dam That sux Fast...
Sorry to hear that

[fastcorvairs]

OK here is some of the damage from the untimely bolt failure.  You can see the bow in the axle with the straight edge next to it. Did a real number on the splines to.  That's a 300M axle and the best CV fro RCV.  In looking real close at this bolt I wonder if I did not have it over torqued. It dose not look to have been sheered.  It looks like it has been pulled apart. There is no twist in it and it is a clean break.

[fastcorvairs]

Here's one for the electriccal guru's out there.  I have RF big time.  Did not have it with the V6 set up.  When I push the car to car talk botton on the radio it will kill the engine.  .  What's up.  More on this later.

[fabr]

You remember your friends car time before last? Need to move your antenna or Motec. Might be able to shield it somehow also. I don't know much about it tho.

[fabr]

OK here is some of the damage from the untimely bolt failure.  You can see the bow in the axle with the straight edge next to it. Did a real number on the splines to.  That's a 300M axle and the best CV fro RCV.  In looking real close at this bolt I wonder if I did not have it over torqued. It dose not look to have been sheered.  It looks like it has been pulled apart. There is no twist in it and it is a clean break.

Fast,is that the bolt in single shear? If so I'd suggest using only a grade 8.   9's are stronger but less ductile. Same goes for Gr8 compared to Gr5. IMO there is actually an overuse of Gr8 fasteners in most of our buggies. I am as guilty ,or more so ,as others because most people assumeGr8 or higher is the ONLY way to go and want to see them used when in reality a Gr5 might be as good or even better in many applications.

[Enemy]

Sorry to hear about your shakedown run getting cut short Fast 



But... on the bright side you are now able to contribute some pictures to the Mechanical Carnage thread 

[dsrace]

on one hand that sucks but on the other you made it to the dunes! 
sorry to hear just the same.  I personally know what it feels like to loose a link and break a shock !!

[fastcorvairs]

Fast,is that the bolt in single shear? If so I'd suggest using only a grade 8.   9's are stronger but less ductile. Same goes for Gr8 compared to Gr5. IMO there is actually an overuse of Gr8 fasteners in most of our buggies. I am as guilty ,or more so ,as others because most people assumeGr8 or higher is the ONLY way to go and want to see them used when in reality a Gr5 might be as good or even better in many applications.

You could be right on the Gr9 being to hard for a single sheer application. I would worry about a Gr5 some but it mite just bend before breaking and that would be a good thing.

[fabr]

I'd also use a hex gr8 instead of a socket head capscrew. My experience has always been that gr8 socket heads seem to be more brittle compared to hex gr8's.

[fastcorvairs]

Here's one for the electrical guru's out there.  I have RF big time.  Did not have it with the V6 set up.  When I push the car to car talk botton on the radio it will kill the engine.  .  What's up.  More on this later.

Ok along with the electrical issue's I have a what I think to be a fuel issue.  At a slow steady 1500 RPM on the asphalt The engine wants to hunt real bad. Almost like you are flipping the ignition switch off and on.  You can load the engine with the trunbreaks and it will go away. But if there is no load on the motor it will drive you nut's .  It don't do it on the sand.  Just on the asphalt. Way back when I was into Webber carburetors that would be a sign of to small of and idle jet.  But I am at a loss with this fuel injection stuff  .  Mite have to call and talk to the guy's out at Outfront Motor Sports.  Doubt that I could get any feed back from Crawford about it.  Any one have any Thoughts on these two.

[Yummi]

The rf is likely a ground issue.  Some talk on radio freq killing the ecu on GD.  Tried to find the thread.  As I recall, by remounting the antenna further away from the ecu, problem was solved.  Wish i could find the thread....

[Carlriddle]

Like Master said, wasn't one of your bud's radio killing his engine back in April LS trip.  Its a little fuzzy but I remember something like that happening, or I read it or dreamed it.

[Engineer]

Sorry to hear about that Fast. 

What size was that bolt?

I am assuming that there is a spacer in the middle between the sets of tabs?  Could you make a new spacer and thread it from both sides and counterbore it a bit so that the bolt can go in far enough to be all on shank in the tabs and not on the threads?

Or mabey I don't understand how it's mounted up. 

[fabr]

Ok along with the electrical issue's I have a what I think to be a fuel issue.  At a slow steady 1500 RPM on the asphalt The engine wants to hunt real bad. Almost like you are flipping the ignition switch off and on.  You can load the engine with the trunbreaks and it will go away. But if there is no load on the motor it will drive you nut's .  It don't do it on the sand.  Just on the asphalt. Way back when I was into Webber carburetors that would be a sign of to small of and idle jet.  But I am at a loss with this fuel injection stuff  .  Mite have to call and talk to the guy's out at Outfront Motor Sports.  Doubt that I could get any feed back from Crawford about it.  Any one have any Thoughts on these two.

I'm betting it's a sensor of some kind either wacked out or misadjusted.