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So IF there is a magical chain length that solves the problem, what is it? My design is sitting at 110 links. or 68.75" long chain. Is it long enough?Anyone know the length of chain on a stock busa or R-1?
Ok, do you believe that a 4" bilge fan is working just fine to cool down arrowheads chain?Do you think king's customers are not having any problems with their incredibly short chain?
Enemy I have a in car camera we could put on your car and film the floating sprocket. My camera is self contained no wires. If that dam thing is twisting around I think stopping that would help the heat in the chain. Note I did not say solve the heat in the chain.
Just from observing the floating sprocket with the wheels off the ground I can say this..I can push the FNR sprocket to one side of the shaft (either side, doesn't matter), let the clutch out slow to get the wheels to start turning, and within a couple revolutions the sprocket has truly aligned itself to the counter-shaft sprocket. It is that effortless. I have visually checked alignment after a hard run and its appears perfect. Visual inspection of a "cooked" chain confirms good alignment as well.. Before, I had the sprocket shimmed to what I thought was dead nuts on, and started noticing wear on the inside of the chain and one side of the sprocket. I cannot foresee any "twist" being at all possible, unless the splines were completely fu(ked up in the machining process, but that too would show with wear on the chain and sprocket.So, both the guys at Jeffco I have talked to at least have there facts (stories?) straight on this one.. "We designed the sprocket to float on the input shaft for self alignment.." Or something like that.. It works, therefore I see no reason to lock the sprocket down...