How to align primary and secondary clutch ?

[hemi43]

I know there's a tool for this, but the problem is that I'm using a Comet 94c primary clutch with a Polaris secondary from an ATV.
Common sense would tell me that the belt should runs perpendicular to the crank centerline from idle to WOT.
I have read about using a bar which is clamped between the sheaves of the secondary, but I'm unsure as to how far the gap should be between the the bar and the primary sheave. Hope I make sense !!
Any help or tips would be appreciated.
 Thanks

[RC51 Rhino]

 I think the non-moving parts of the sheaves need to be in line? I'm sure someone else will chime in soon. Whatcha buildin? Pics?

[SPEC]

I'm looking for some pix...
The primary compresses towards the motor, the secondary opens towards the chain case... as the primary closes it pushes the belt closer to the cases.
I'm thinking that measure the distance from the bottom (Base) of the comet to the outermost area of the back sheave on the primary and that should be your offset

[Nutz4sand]

http://www.aaenperformance.com/Acces_P1.asp

Contact Aaen above. They specialize in clutches and even putting aftermarket Comet drive clutches ON Polarises so they may even have the tool to align your clutch to the Polaris driven you have.

If not they can surley help with info (measurments?) I would bet.

[yossi]

hi
hope that will help
it's from the polaris manual

[SPEC]

GREAT POST YOSSI
Those were the pix I was looking for...I scanned them into my puter and it fooken ate them

[hemi43]

Thanks Yossi !! That was extremely helpfull 

I had not realised that the secondary clutch is mounted at a slight angle to the primary.
Because there's no tool available for my setup, I just now have to find out where the belt sits in the primary clutch. In the diagram that I modified, distance "A" and "B" is my concern.
Common sense would tell me that these should be equal, because the primary and secondary sheaves both have the same angles, therefore the belt would stay parallel to itself at all times.
Dan

[Nutz4sand]

Actually Dan what is in the Ski Doo books is a little eaiser to do. (To get the measurements)

Get yourself some 1/4 inch or close keyway material that is PERFECTLY straight. The stuff is tough so it should stay that way for years.

Get a long enough piece you can reach from the just past the middle of the driven clutch a inch or two back past its middle and long enough to go out past the front of the drive and inch or two.

Clamp it in the driven clutch by forcing the clutch open and inserting it at the bottom of the sheeves and lay it across the drive clutches center. Then you can measure off it to the STATIONARY sheeve on the drive clutch near the motor with a pair of calipers easy for a precise measurment.

This will allow you to carefulley angle the motor a little away from the driven clutch by making the front measurement a tad more. The amount differs with each machine and when your mixing things up its up to you to figure out the optimal.

The slight angle is due to the fact that the motor WILL torque back some under full load. You want the motor straight under full load or you will waste power AND burn up belts. Its best to have it a tad off at low speeds and loads so its angled a tad setting it up. Then if right it pulls itself dead straight while working its hardest.

[hemi43]

Yeah!! That makes a lot of sense. I have the motor welded to my welding bench and I will be making a bracket which will mount the secondary/transmission to it.
This will give me a motor/trans one piece unit that I can mount into the chassis.
I'll take a few pics and post it into my build thread that I've already started.
Thanks for all the help and tips, because I wasn't quite sure how these drives get setup. I'm pretty confident I know what to do now!!   

[Nutz4sand]

Thats the best thing I LIKED about my old Honda Pilot minibuggy.

The motor and the tranny were hooked together by two LARGe steel plates and six huge bolts. It was set and it wasn't moving.

[Odyknuck]

So if the motor and trans are hooked together then your better off make the clutches parallel?

[Nutz4sand]

The trick is to keep the belt aligned at full power.

Sleds cannot do this as the driven is mounted to the chassis solid so the motor needs rubber mounts so it can vibrate. The motors got a torque strut of some kind to help the mounts deal with the pull.

Now a sled maker COULD make a driven clutch float with the motor but then instead of it on a solid shaft it would need a CV or Ujoint shaft so that it could shake with the motor yet the other end of the shaft stay solid. This would require a driven clutch supported on both sides or a MASSIVE bearing support on the one side to hold it true.

The Pilots get away with this cause the motor and tranny are bolted together as one. So the belt cannot misalign the clutches.

The whole deal shakes but the shafts going out to the wheels just have to deal with it.

[Odyknuck]

I do like the Pilot setup. Over the winter I am Installing a 700 Rotax twin in one of my Pilots and plan on connecting the trans to the motor.  I will be running the Sled primary clutch with a Sled Team Secondary.