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Start with the larger rear sprocket for the extra deep gearing. Always drop the rear sprocket and shave the chain til ya happy camper.

Mathematically your figures are correct. But that's some awful deep gearing. But you gotta be happy.

ok so this is in response to the pic above. since there are no dimensions on the picture i have to ask...... are all the pivot points equal? as in does each point of pivot ( heim and cv) pivot on a equal plane to eliminate bind or telescoping? the easiest way to do this is to center the pivot point of the heims through the center of the pivot point of the cv but as i see in the picture they are not so if they do not pivot at the same time then the cv will have to plunge or atleast 1 cv on each side depending on how far off of center you are or you will get bind. always easiest and best to pivot through the centers 3d or up and down side to side and in and out. but when space doesn't allow this i would think that if they were offset equally it still pivot right just add a load to the joints differently.

as to the gearing charts.....well that just hurts my head lol they don't factor weight, drag or accel rate lol as in doubling the weight of the wheel and a 32" paddle with 1" tall paddles is more like 30" when calculating circumference for ground speed since the bald spot is actually floating imo that is.