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UTV Member Project Logs / Re: AR-51 build
« Last post by deranged on September 19, 2018, 01:28:55 PM »
Well I got some feedback from the designer of the car. 
His idea was to keep the car as short as possible, thus raking the drive axles forward in turn sacrificing some travel.
Well, this car is gonna get slightly many ways. LOL

There is a chap over down-under who destroyed one of his f-150 CV's with a Busa powered car.  Not sure how.  I may just run the non plunging 930's all around and keep things common.

I will probably keep the radius rod where it is on the chassis and look at a different location on the lower arm.   

Plan of attack.  Goal of 18-20" of rear travel @ under 80" wide and 20-21" up front.
-Design different lower and upper arms to fit the chassis as well as the upright +2 per side. 
-Lowers to be plate/box design and uppers tube.
-Design so that the spool center matches the micro stub.  (chain adjuster in the central location)
-24" axles to 26" axles
-Non plunging 930 CV swap
-Take the front design and widen the same as the rear.  (shock location will stay and the +2 addition will be from the shock out)
-Lowers will be plate/box and the uppers will be tube.
-Oh yeah, Busa swap. LOL
-MAYBE 2" 3 tube bypasses in the rear.
I guess I will be busy this winter!
UTV Member Project Logs / Re: AR-51 build
« Last post by dsrace on September 19, 2018, 10:37:57 AM »
i ran the f150 cv/stub and the actual f150 wheel bearing on my turbo busa. well glad your widening the front too and since you are...... set it all up so the front tires track down the center of the rear tires. if possible pull that rear link bar back to 45* ( off center of axle) or slghtly less ( if possible it works so could leave it).

 post up why the builder offset the axle like that. i am not saying its a bad thing just curious why.

just for an current rails rear track width is 96" with paddles. front is 80" and i have 24" wheel travel. rims on rear are 12" wide with 4.5" back spacing , fronts are 5" wide and 3.5" back spacing. my fronts are close to on center tracking with rears. i run 28" axles on non plunge 930 cv's.
UTV Member Project Logs / Re: AR-51 build
« Last post by deranged on September 19, 2018, 09:56:13 AM »
The front has the same spacers as the rear.  Oh, I didn't tell you that I was going to widen the front too.  HAA!!  I'm going for some good travel numbers on this car.  I currently am pulling 18" up front.  I will be doing a fabricated plate lower that will be 1-2" wider each side, beef up the bushings as well.

In fact the guy that designed it has F-150 outers available to slide into my intrepid bearing.  Below is the link.

I will be speaking with him to review his idea around the axles going forward.

UTV Member Project Logs / Re: AR-51 build
« Last post by dsrace on September 19, 2018, 08:48:58 AM »

so one thing to consider is that in an ideal situation we want our front tires tracking down the center of our rears. does your currently? if the front end is wider then widening the rear would def be a plus. 

on that forward link rod....45* is imo max angle so 50* from be to far but it works then it works.

if this rick person does indeed have axle plunge down to 1/8" plunge or less as i have on the last several then i am surprised he hasn't gone to non plunge 930's?? ideal would be to take that 1.25" from chain adjustment and split it then center the axle on that line so the offset is equal when adjusted.  having that axle centerline off centered from the pivot points of the a arms actually can create axle plunge, surprised the designer did that. so if you take the width of the wheel adaptor and if the front is wider then add that and you'll get your new axle length #.

UTV Member Project Logs / Re: AR-51 build
« Last post by deranged on September 19, 2018, 07:06:16 AM »
Great conversation.
As far as wheelbase, i'm not too concerned unless it affects akerman.  Good call on the chain adjustment.  That is 1.25" overall.
I will have to measure the plunge later today.  I think it was designed to be around 1/8" or so, maybe less as Rick was pretty picky in the design.
I am running 24" axles and at full droop they are 26* and the track width is 78" or so.  I DO have 1.250" wheel adapters currently.  I will be getting rid of them and re drilling my flanges.  That will allow me to widen the rear out to gain more usable travel.
I am interested in the non plunging CV's.  Those, coupled with a little wider track width could achieve a fair amount of added travel.

I will be keeping everything the way it is until after the LS trip, but starting some R&D now to get a good plan.  Everything about the car is awesome.  It handles very good, but would be so much better with more rear travel.

The angle at which the radius arm is to the arm is appx 50* at while full droop.

The Pit Stop / Re: Solitude
« Last post by Carlriddle on September 19, 2018, 05:52:17 AM »
Many moons ago, I got there on a mon/tue and was only one, maybe a quad.  Very strange feeling.  Enemy showed mid day, we had the dunes to ourselves that fternoon.  One of the best rides ever!!!!!!!!

The Pit Stop / Re: Solitude
« Last post by fabr on September 18, 2018, 11:20:14 PM »
Sure was!
Welding/Cutting/Bending/Forming / Re: Got this weird Welder
« Last post by dsrace on September 18, 2018, 08:41:23 PM »
well welding steel with argon should be fine. more expensive than c25 but better.
Welding/Cutting/Bending/Forming / Re: Got this weird Welder
« Last post by Voodoochikin04 on September 18, 2018, 07:20:20 PM »
we wired the new outlet for 220 with a double pole 40amp breaker in (double 40's) and ran that to a matching outlet as the plug.  The setup came with an extension cord slightly thicker than the cord for the welder.  So I should be good on that.

What about welding steel with 100% argon?
UTV General Discussion / Re: Chassis table.
« Last post by big dave on September 18, 2018, 03:57:24 PM »
I was talking with one of my co-worker. that use to build micro sprint car frames. I kind off like what he did. take two half inch 4 x 8 sheets of plywood glue the two together. might be over kill. one may do the job?? build stand with rollers. make some leaving legs with nut bolt and some angle. cover the top with  sheet steel. my scaffolding guy said he could build one out of scaffolding as well. But I'm thanking there would be to much give in it. just food for thought. that and I would like to see what others have done.
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