The zx12 while I love it, can be a bitch.  Odd ball output sprocket spline, crank trigger is odd number signal.  I worked around it all, had computer stuff reprogrammed, dug up parts, made others.  The 12 revs snappy like a 1000 but w more torque.
 
If I was doing another, Kawasaki H2, or H2R if ya can find.  Factory supercharged sportbike. 
The busa is the king of aftermarket support, makes upgrades easier and cheaper.

Well,
It's been a busy year so far and haven't been on here in a while!!  Well I have done a couple things to the car as of lately.
I went from a 10" ebay fan to a 12" Spal curved blade fan, drained my coolant and used some Royal Purple "water wetter" type stuff.  What I used before was distilled water and water-wetter.  I used distilled water per Suzuki.  However that is mixed with antifreeze.  Well I guess distilled water will actually draw minerals out of the cooling jacket and reduce the cooling efficiency? Well, I now have purified drinking water and that Royal Purple additive.  All things combined, I can run it really REALLY hard in the dunes and it will get up to 210 with a 95* ambient air temp.  I don't push it past that, as I will stop for literally 30 seconds to a min. and it will drop to 190 and stay there under "normal" driving around on the dunes.  Possibly may go to a 4 row Civic rad vs the 2 row I currently have.

I also made some adapters for my bead-lock wheels!  It looks KILLER!  so from going from 8" wide wheels to a 10" wide wheel and 13" wide paddles there is more of a contact patch on the sand.  It really hooks up good now! 

I made some spring adjustments too.  Originally had 300# on the bottom and 250# on the top...WAY over-sprung.  I had 2" of shaft in the body..()  I was hoping for 4-5" of shaft in the body..(LMFAO, married mans dream).  I did the math over and over and my simple mind said if you need to drop another 2" cut the poundage in half.  Well, my numbers matched up to the calculations that Downsouth Motorsports came up with.  I should be getting the new coils today.  150 on the bottom with 100 on the top.  This will allow me some pre-load if I needed.  Then I will have to test and possibly some valving.

This car is just too much damn fun!  Not sure if I want to start another build, or do a Busa swap with this car.  Looking at dyno numbers of the 750, bikes are seeing 55# ft of torque at 12k...the first gen busa has that at 2500 rpm...  And this car will pull the front wheels juuuust ever so slightly over a roller at 10-13k RPM.   

I'm sorry but I gotta call BS on that. The simple truth is that there is no better coolant than 100% distilled water. Is there a problem with running pure distilled? Yup,no corrosion inhibitors. That is why it needs at least some antifreeze in it. Water wetter products ,IMO,are just marketing hype and will absolutely not cool any better than water/antifreeze that also provides ample corrosion protection. If a person is having controlling temps it is simply a matter of either too small a radiator or much more likely too little airflow through the radiator due to either radiator placement of crappy,low cfm fan/s. You shouldn't need or really want a 4 row since the extra restriction will basically stop the airflow through the core. This has been hashed over on many,many forums and in written literature for a very long time now. There is a reason why universally 50/50 distilled and antifreeze is recommended in an engine. On a side note 210 is absolutely not an issue. Hell even at230-240 which is perfectly fine for an engine to run at water will not boil if the cooling system is able to hold enough pressure. Here is a chart to show this. SOOOOO,forget the fancy stuff and get you cooling system airflow and system pressure up to par. 

Here is a chart showing the effect of pressure on boiling point . It's just physics. Honestly,don't worry yourself about keeping the water temp to any certain number like 210 or below. Just run enough system pressure to prevent boiling. Easy peasy. The YXZ's I have all run 220-240 all the time as yamaha designed them to do . I know how hard it is to get comfortable with the higher coolant temps but most all new stuff run hotter by design today. I run approx 33% antifreeze in the busa buggy and the same in the v8 with 20 psi caps. No issues at all.

onto the work bench and I can see where the suspension tops need to be
just need to copy over the engine mounting position in the same way  and I can get rid of the old body shell I keep tripping over

so I finished stripping the golf down as far as I could, decided for the time being I would use the golf front subframe in the back and another up front

I just asked re: Chassis.  Hope they respond.

And they did.  Not a lot of detail, but some insight. 

Good Morning Jeffrey,

We use bronze welding because it has very slight flex in it as you say. It also induces less localised heat in the tubes, increasing strength.

Regards
 
Henry
 
Henry Siebert-Saunders