Recent Posts

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Chassis and Suspension / Re: 5 link rear sandcar suspension
« Last post by fabr on November 13, 2018, 04:40:54 PM »
I've never broken an anvil but I've damn sure screwed one up!
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"AP" General Discusion / Re: car derived sxs
« Last post by Grimm Reaper Racing on November 13, 2018, 03:19:49 PM »
Putting it on a spit is the cat's ass !!!! I built a full chassis table rotisserie ,as we call it here, and it makes final welding a LOT easier for sure!!!!

That's for sure!  I wish I would've had one...  Thankfully I had multiple chain hoists, but it was still a pain in the arse.

This project is looking sweet!
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Chassis and Suspension / Re: 5 link rear sandcar suspension
« Last post by Grimm Reaper Racing on November 13, 2018, 03:15:40 PM »
I just got done reading through this thread...  Brian, I don't think you'll break those rear bearing carriers under "normal" operation.  That said, I have personally broken an anvil, so anything is possible, but I think you have some solid looking weldments there.

~Adam
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Chassis and Suspension / Re: Now I have gone and done it.
« Last post by dsrace on November 13, 2018, 12:12:57 PM »
VERY nice work! the front end was designed for 10* caster but of course you'll set it as you see fit. we will need more pics though!! video would be nice as well.
If I ever get really bored, I'll adjust backwards to around 10 and see what happens. For now, it turns like it's on rails.
To begin with, I was having troubles, I was used to cranking the wheel and plowing for 25 feet before it started to turn.  :m
 
Video will be forth coming, have to find something besides the pos gopro quick software.

i cannot wait to see what that pre explanation was for  ;D ;)

well thats great that your happy with it as is now. that's the only real important factor!! big change i know!

if you ever do get bored enough ( with your statement i can't believe you will ) but let me know and i'll give you the alignment instructions as it was designed for. then once the front is done then you'll need to do the rear end. it will steer even better yet!

Sounds like work  :m

I am going to take the cutting brake out and install a phone holder in it's place.
Second project before T day, replace pos shifter.
Then hopefully, I won't have to wrench on it until prep for St Anthony, i.e. next summer.

With the beam, I would look where I wanted to go and pad that by 25 feet, because that's how far it would plow before it started to turn. It had way to much caster, it was easier to put the A-arms on than redo the beam.

 LMAO i hear ya and believe it or not i am still forced to use my cutting brakes!! only when following budlight 69 or mike in the  tight trails   ;) ;D ;D but other than that i wouldn't need mine either!
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Chassis and Suspension / Re: Now I have gone and done it.
« Last post by dsrace on November 13, 2018, 12:11:09 PM »
 on the axis at which it now piovts. this is when ackreman angle comes into play as well. more caster is more steering effort into the turn but less out of the turn and this is where eps comes in  ;) ;) rofl  also were 0 to very little bump steer plays a huge roll . front steer vs rear steer etc etc there is a lot more too all this than one thinks but you skipped that with my front end  ;D so i have never even attempted to fine tune a beam front end. so let me put it to you this way......looking down from above, when you turn it's like turning around a doughnut. inside wheel needs to turn sharper than the outside and the rear needs to follow behind. now throw neg camber into the mix in relation to sai ( kpi) to place the load on the rib of a cutting tire and put it to the ground.  i see no way a stock beam front end can do any of this. 

like it said  before, if your happy with it then leave it but if you want to see a whole new level i can give you a list to follow and then you have to square and align the rear.   
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Chassis and Suspension / Re: Now I have gone and done it.
« Last post by Stickflipper on November 13, 2018, 09:57:26 AM »
Caster is what increases straight line stability. The more the caster,the more straight line stability you will have . Caster aids in turning also at the price of steering effort increasing as more caster  is added. Can you explain how excessive caster in the beam would make the front plow?

How does caster aid in turning and straight line stability at the same time?  They are kinda counter to each other.


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Chassis and Suspension / Re: Now I have gone and done it.
« Last post by fabr on November 13, 2018, 08:56:45 AM »
Caster is what increases straight line stability. The more the caster,the more straight line stability you will have . Caster aids in turning also at the price of steering effort increasing as more caster  is added. Can you explain how excessive caster in the beam would make the front plow?
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Chassis and Suspension / Re: Now I have gone and done it.
« Last post by Stickflipper on November 13, 2018, 07:24:17 AM »
VERY nice work! the front end was designed for 10* caster but of course you'll set it as you see fit. we will need more pics though!! video would be nice as well.
If I ever get really bored, I'll adjust backwards to around 10 and see what happens. For now, it turns like it's on rails.
To begin with, I was having troubles, I was used to cranking the wheel and plowing for 25 feet before it started to turn.  :m
 
Video will be forth coming, have to find something besides the pos gopro quick software.

i cannot wait to see what that pre explanation was for  ;D ;)

well thats great that your happy with it as is now. that's the only real important factor!! big change i know!

if you ever do get bored enough ( with your statement i can't believe you will ) but let me know and i'll give you the alignment instructions as it was designed for. then once the front is done then you'll need to do the rear end. it will steer even better yet!

Sounds like work  :m

I am going to take the cutting brake out and install a phone holder in it's place.
Second project before T day, replace pos shifter.
Then hopefully, I won't have to wrench on it until prep for St Anthony, i.e. next summer.

With the beam, I would look where I wanted to go and pad that by 25 feet, because that's how far it would plow before it started to turn. It had way to much caster, it was easier to put the A-arms on than redo the beam.
9
Chassis and Suspension / Re: Now I have gone and done it.
« Last post by dsrace on November 12, 2018, 02:57:47 PM »
VERY nice work! the front end was designed for 10* caster but of course you'll set it as you see fit. we will need more pics though!! video would be nice as well.
If I ever get really bored, I'll adjust backwards to around 10 and see what happens. For now, it turns like it's on rails.
To begin with, I was having troubles, I was used to cranking the wheel and plowing for 25 feet before it started to turn.  :m
 
Video will be forth coming, have to find something besides the pos gopro quick software.

i cannot wait to see what that pre explanation was for  ;D ;)

well thats great that your happy with it as is now. that's the only real important factor!! big change i know!

if you ever do get bored enough ( with your statement i can't believe you will ) but let me know and i'll give you the alignment instructions as it was designed for. then once the front is done then you'll need to do the rear end. it will steer even better yet!
10
Chassis and Suspension / Re: Now I have gone and done it.
« Last post by Stickflipper on November 12, 2018, 12:26:23 PM »
VERY nice work! the front end was designed for 10* caster but of course you'll set it as you see fit. we will need more pics though!! video would be nice as well.
If I ever get really bored, I'll adjust backwards to around 10 and see what happens. For now, it turns like it's on rails.
To begin with, I was having troubles, I was used to cranking the wheel and plowing for 25 feet before it started to turn.  :m
 
Video will be forth coming, have to find something besides the pos gopro quick software.
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