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UTV's Off Road ( RZR, YXZ, Mini Buggy, Carts,etc.) => UTV Controls and Electrical => Topic started by: Jerry on January 28, 2009, 07:59:59 PM
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This is to solve the problem of how to mount a sender for a water temp gauge. The hose is 1inch. Use a 1 inch piece of aluminum pipe (3 inches) weld a threaded bung to it to accept the sender. The sender tip area is in the tube/water. This area may need to be bowl like the allow for unrestricted water flow.
Does this make sense.
Sound useful.
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Perfect, i would just drill and pipe tap it, screw in some brass hose bibs, I did the same thing, i added the fan switch, and the temp gauge in the same location, Not on the current car, but the previous one...
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I have went to a good plumbing supply house and got a "T" fitting of the proper size that fits in my Trucks radiator hose. Then the aftermarket temp guage I bought threads right into the side of the "T" where the threads are and the other parts where copper pipe would be soldered to the inside instead fits right inside the radiator hoses.
You would have to check but its a good bet they make a "T" to fit with pipe threads out the one side already.
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This is to solve the problem of how to mount a sender for a water temp gauge. The hose is 1inch. Use a 1 inch piece of aluminum pipe (3 inches) weld a threaded bung to it to accept the sender. The sender tip area is in the tube/water. This area may need to be bowl like the allow for unrestricted water flow.
Does this make sense.
Sound useful.
Good idea and a nice professional look if done well.
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I did the same drilled and tapped then installed the sensor on the little car on the big car I run the stock dash so I run the sensor off the motor
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Don't forget to run a ground wire to it coz it is electrically isolated from ground now and it needs to see ground.
BTW I've seen extruded ali ones on ebay for ~$30.
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I wouldlike tos ee the ebay one do you remember what they called it?
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You can buy these for car sized hoses already so it surely works....Try Jegs I believe.
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I'm pretty sure it will ground through the coolant.Anyone know for sure?
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I'm pretty sure it will ground through the coolant.Anyone know for sure?
It does not seek a good enuff ground, I had to mount mine to the chassis to catch ground...
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Never never allow any electrical item to try and ground through the coolant... known as stray current and sets a up a corrosive reaction which can eat out your alloy components in a few months... mostly the rad as its so thin... always bad practice....
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Never never allow any electrical item to try and ground through the coolant... known as stray current and sets a up a corrosive reaction which can eat out your alloy components in a few months... mostly the rad as its so thin... always bad practice....
I agree that coolant ground is not good.
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How bout thru the fuel? b:1 10: 10: :g
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Hehehe!.I was wondering if someone was going to point that out.The corrosion/erosion mentioned won't occur tho if you keep fresh and proper dilution ratio antifreeze in your system .
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antifreeze
Wow did you know.
TERMITE TREATMENT RATIOS:
A ratio of 50/50 (propylene glycol and water) is recommended. 1 pound of boric acid per 2 gallons of mixture should be sufficient, though many people opt to use 2 pounds for maximum effectiveness (or 1 pound per gallon of liquid).
This is straight from the webb folks HONST JON. All so used in get this!!!!!!!
(PERSONAL LUBEcxxt AKA KY JELLEY)
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Hehehe!.I was wondering if someone was going to point that out.The corrosion/erosion mentioned won't occur tho if you keep fresh and proper dilution ratio antifreeze in your system .
Sory Fabr, misapprehension there.. antifreeze aint gonna stop a galvonic corrosion incident. The only thing that will reduce this is effective earthing.
Anti-freeze stops things freezing, radiator inhibitor reduces corrosion through the normal corrosive process. Add stray current and nothing will halt it except (as mentioned) effective earthing.
This issue is prevelant when home bods do their own engine transplant and forget or simply dont bother to hook up all the earth wires again.
Have had a new ali rad corode to many pin hole level in 5 weeks due to missing earth strap.
Easy checked, multi meter on volts one probe in coolant one probe on earth. should read zip, if there is a reading go looking....
late addition here...acceptable limits are anything less than 50mv (0.005v). The unit which corroded in 5 weeks read 1.83 volts.
You can buy dedicated testers but these are just leds which light up over 50mv, save your money and use your multi meter.
Mixing coolants can also cause a voltage in a system as well (dont ask me what mix though) and this is also labelled stray voltage but in essence its not really, its more a generated voltage..same result though..
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I wouldlike tos ee the ebay one do you remember what they called it?
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/FLYN-WATER-TEMP-GAUGE-ADAPTOR-28-29-30-32-34-36-38-40mm_W0QQitemZ380098784750QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Car_Parts_Accessories?hash=item380098784750&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2%7C65%3A1%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318 (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/FLYN-WATER-TEMP-GAUGE-ADAPTOR-28-29-30-32-34-36-38-40mm_W0QQitemZ380098784750QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Car_Parts_Accessories?hash=item380098784750&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2%7C65%3A1%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318)
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gee tah Troj old mate ( i think?...stupid? I guess it has been said before...sigh)
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Nice but 28 is 1 1/8 and is really tight to get into a 1 inch hole even lubed. ( I know where that is going)I have tried with 1 inch copper which is 11/8
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gee tah Troj old mate ( i think?...stupid? I guess it has been said before...sigh)
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Nice but 28 is 1 1/8 and is really tight to get into a 1 inch hole even lubed.
I bet he has others? They might accommodate you with a little less discomfort :o ?
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On the ground issue, is this because the rad is typically rubber isolated in some fashion? And, does it require a grounding strap for the rad, or, are you just discussing a ground strap for the block, etc?
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you'll find if the rad is isolated by design the sensor has 2 wires or a grounding strap ;)
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That brings up another question, why not just tap into the top of the tank on the rad and forgo this whole adapter issue? Also, my sensor comes from the block, is there a preferred location to take the temp or is it treated like a "whole unit."
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generally (but not always) the fan is switched by a sensor in the rad and the gauge is from another sensor in the block/head.
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just my 02 - but I prefer my fan switch sensor right next to my temp sensor. this way when I want to change temp turn on I can watch the guage. through the hose will work and is easier in most cases. I think speedwaymotors.com sells them also.
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Im with Ds on this one... then what you see on the gauge is actually what the fan sensor is also "seeing". Dont forget that many systems can have hot spots which can vary these results greatly. I like the idea of an inline mount, avoid any potential problems by either earthing it or mounting it to the frame.
I think its obviously harder to source 1" units than we would have thought, so why not just make it...not that difficult to do in a tidy manner, no reason why it couldnt be steel if you have limited alloy welding acess.
With regards to the 1 1/8" unit and 1" opening ... if you use enough lube..and push hard enough... mmmm best not go there... this is a family forum after all (isnt it?)
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I will try 1 inch copper that is 1 1/8 and lots of lube. Copper stuff is easy to find and sweat together.
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I will try 1 inch copper that is 1 1/8 and lots of lube. Copper stuff is easy to find and sweat together.
you should be able to get some one inch copper hose bibs... fits actual 1" hose, but i may be wrong....
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Or you can get brass fittings, although those may not be too cheap.
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Back from the hardware store copper would cost about $23. brass did not have the right pieces. Pvc $.63
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Back from the hardware store copper would cost about $23. brass did not have the right pieces. Pvc $.63
as long as its threaded, glued pvc is not good for hot water.... if it was me and you want to save some cash, get a black pipe t and some galvanized hose adapters and thread them in...
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This is brass but you get the idea, hose barb is what its called...
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The sender threads in the hose fits (tight) over the other two end
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Im with Ds on this one... then what you see on the gauge is actually what the fan sensor is also "seeing". Dont forget that many systems can have hot spots which can vary these results greatly. I like the idea of an inline mount, avoid any potential problems by either earthing it or mounting it to the frame.
I think its obviously harder to source 1" units than we would have thought, so why not just make it...not that difficult to do in a tidy manner, no reason why it couldnt be steel if you have limited alloy welding acess.
With regards to the 1 1/8" unit and 1" opening ... if you use enough lube..and push hard enough... mmmm best not go there... this is a family forum after all (isnt it?)
what I actually did this last time (solely because of room) was to tee into the block with a short piece and screwed both temp senders into it. neither are directly in the direct flow ( very close to ) but are reading pretty accurately. I tee'd into the existing temp sensor on the motor so the senders are grounded to the block right in front of the thermostat.
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The first shots are the pipe fitting I got at the hardware store. There was one fitting adaptor I needed and this slipped right in the radiator hose just between the thermostat and radiator. I was thinking of two so I could put one after the radiator too. Then I would know how much heat the radiator was shedding. Also handy if something starts going worng this could tell you before it got out of hand.
This above fits full size car radiators hoses on full size older ford trucks.
Your application on full size may vary.... Good plumbing shops have this stuff. Even to fit a motorbikes size radiator hoose I bet.
The bottom pics are more of interest to the minis maybe??
The green temp monitors are Venom RC car temp monitors for Nitro engines. They have a little loop at the end that goes around the motors cylinder and a thermocouple there sends the temp it hits to the digital display. These record highest temp and lowest temp and show current temp. (also F or Cel readings)
The little black T fitting is a common automotive radiator hose fitting for flushing a system. They sell these at any car pats store and you can find them at Meijers (you used to be able to) and Wal-mart too.
I drilled a tiny hole in the screw on part of the flushing "T" after shoving the thermocouple in there so it would be in the coolant flow I put a tiny bit of silicone on the hole to seal it and let it dry. This seal WAS ONLY FOR the JB weld!!!!! I would not trust just silicone to radiator pressure. It might hold if you filled the entire portion where the wire comes out thru the little hole but after the silicone had dried I used the syringe with the hose on it to reach in there and carefulley fill the area with JB weld to the bottom of the tube. I let it dry on the RC car tires you can see in the pics.
Once done I put it on my Honda Pilot just off the head. For a control group kinda thing I also had a second Venom unit you can see in the pics wrapped round the heads metal output port (Basically just like it would be around the cylinder of a nitro car) The two usually would read close but the one in the liquid always reacted far far far faster. It was also a few degrees hotter usually while running. This is due to (I feel) to the other also being exposed to air.
When the motor was not hot (ambient air temps) the two gauges would read dead on the same.
This was just to show the little black "T" that some may be able to use like I did.
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I have seen the 1 inch galvanized coupler, i have heard to stay a way from the galvanized because the anti/water and heat will cause the galvanition to flake off. Has anyone else heard that
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Won't anything metallic, other than Ali, cause galvanic corrosion?
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Won't anything metallic, other than Ali, cause galvanic corrosion?
they sell the galvanized one and a plastic one. I ran one of the galvanized ones for 1 1/2 years personally, I took it off just before I sold it to flush the system. I didn't notice any flaking, but I'm not saying it isn't possible just never happened to me. search for a mini sprint site they probably already have what you are looking for.
what speed way sells is for cars 1 1/2 id hose.
is there a dead bolt or plug on the head in the water jacket that you can just screw your sender into?
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Plastic is electrically sound but not necessarily structurally ;)
Al comes before Zn in the reactivity series, so the Zn will cause the Al to corrode, they are "close" (in the series) so the corrosion should not be horrific.