DTSFab.com (Desert, Trail and Sand)
UTV's Off Road ( RZR, YXZ, Mini Buggy, Carts,etc.) => UTV Member Project Logs => Topic started by: Enemy on January 09, 2016, 03:51:20 PM
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Psi is like crack for me, so I am needing another fix.. It is a sickness. BUUUUT, I'm not ready for rehab just yet!
Project "BoostalotaBrute"
2012 Kawasaki Brute Force.
Fuel injected, 4-Stroke, SOHC 90* V2
49.8HP @6750 44ft-lb @5250 (@ crank from the book)
9.3:1 compressing ratio.. ;D ..Well that's just begging to be pressurized dammit.
This is my garage tow/pull rig, sandbar runner, submarine, wood hauler, mountain pass transportation, river side beer fetching device, sunshine finder, dune machine, mud bogger, and lounge chair all in one. It has been a great machine and has with stood much punishment thanks to the crew I run with around these parts. Couldn't be happier with it!!
It's current setup is a 1-5/8 full Muzzy System, K&N, air box mods for the snorkle system that opened it up over factory, and a Digitune to bring some more fuel in from the factory ECU. This put down 40hp at the wheel on the Dyno Jet. My goal is 80hp, that I believe is possible @6-8psi. This will be intercooled on 91 octane. Probably go a little rich at this octane, but unfortunately its the best we have at the pump around here. Probably run a blend with 100 octane for 10psi. The turbo I am using is a Garrett GT1544 http://turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/turbocharger#GT1544 (http://turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/turbocharger#GT1544) Very efficient at 10psi, which is the max I would ever push this motor on stock internals. If I don't do any full boosted landing or something even more brilliant, I think the drivetrain will be up for it easily.
For boost fueling, I am building a secondary injection system to be run by a MicroSquirt in "Fuel Only" mode with speed density.. For now anyway.. In the future, the MicroSquirt will be running all the engine systems with a pair of 42lb injectors in the factory location and ditch the factory ECU and the secondaries. Still working some bugs out on that one..
Here's the baby Garrett and the merge collector, down pipe flange, and oil return fitting finished up. I was able to retain the original Muzzy cylinder 1 head pipe back to the rear cylinder, all other muzzy exhaust was ditched for a new route.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4522/38216169151_6747f8452d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21e2RE8)
Brackets built and turbo mounted with original heat shield tabs from factory exhaust system. Fits really good behind cyl2. I added an extra layer of Thermal block to the original Tank heat shield for extra measure from the turbine heat.
All exhaust will be wrapped after some run in and dyno tuning. Down pipe ties directly back into the Muzzy muffler in the original location. Going to keep it this way for the spark arrestor so its legal in the Rockies, but have a straight pipe built that can swap out in about a minute. Want to dyno both ways to see the differences.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4457/37505205764_86213b25db_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Z9cZ1G)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4551/37505192904_69257fa803_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Z9cVbY)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4492/38216147301_819fd8c723_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21e2Kap)
Intercooler tabbed up and mounted using factory tabs. It measures 19"x6"x2.5", with a core or 12"x6"x2", fit really good here.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4463/38184268262_0ba0d4271a_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21bdmCN)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4443/37505192564_994f8f5ec5_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Z9cV67)
Turbo plumbed out.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4491/37505199084_bd2cd430f0_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Z9cX2w)
importing more pics so more to come..
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Here are the secondary injectors being built. Quite the oddball angles to work with in the airbox to fire the injectors down the throats so this is what I came up with. Injector holders mocked up in the plenum. I'm using the factory lid mounting system as the pedestal. Then injectors and then the fuel rail. This all clamps down together at the center mount that will also double as one of the boost plenum lids' mount.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4506/37505234374_cb109fdc46_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Z9d8vY)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4556/38184268692_13b7a6a0f0_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21bdmLd)
The first butchering of the factory airbox.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4523/38216155041_2d55a77b91_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21e2MsR)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4558/26439733939_9b57d7861c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GhoxKH)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4581/37505189044_0f48f86af0_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Z9cU3q)
Bulkhead fittings to tie in line with the factory fuel system. By the math, the factory pump should be up to the task at 10psi, if not I will drop in a bigger pump and do a regulated return system with boost reference.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4532/37505192134_290dc2aef4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Z9cUXG)
The brains of the fueling. Pressure reference is from a 3-bar GM map sensor
https://www.diyautotune.com/product/microsquirt-engine-management-system-w-30-wiring-harness/ (https://www.diyautotune.com/product/microsquirt-engine-management-system-w-30-wiring-harness/)
https://www.diyautotune.com/product/map-gm-3-bar-map-sensor/ (https://www.diyautotune.com/product/map-gm-3-bar-map-sensor/)
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COOL!!!!! Ready for LS?????
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looks a lot cooler in person ;D and will even more soo out on the sand!!!!!!!!
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COOL!!!!! Ready for LS?????
THANKS and very much hoping so!!!!
I was readying a phone call to ya yesterday with a question about Poly, but figured I would post it up here, it will be better with a visual reference. I am in the process of tearing it back down now (I put it back to pre turbo for a New Years camp out the Loup river) and will get the appropriate pics ready. I am at the point of building the turbo "Hat" for the airbox lid and will need much knowledge and assistance oh Jedi Master :D
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looks a lot cooler in person ;D and will even more soo out on the sand!!!!!!!!
Test runs in your back pasture? Right now would be some nice sharp ice/snow boulders that is the consistency of concrete for roost!
thumb down thumb down
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Nice! Now put a cage on it ;D
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Are you going to adjust the valves on there since your adding boost. I know you never have.
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Are you going to adjust the valves on there since your adding boost. I know you never have.
Don't they do that at the factory? ;D
Yea, it is definitely overdue..
Got the exhaust finished up and went ahead and wrapped it, still itching.. Not a fan working with that stuff! I built a straight pipe for it but it is so obnoxious even with the turbo quieting the notes down I am not even going to mess with it.. Working now on getting a clean tack signal and MAP signal to the Microsquirt. Individual throttle bodies have no air plenum to soften the signal so some guys have come up with a simple mechanical fix!
Vacuum lines tee together from each cylinder, then to a restrictor (in my case, a .035 MIG tip) then to an air plenum (small plastic fuel filter)
Worked like a charm! Can be tuned using different sized restrictors and filters in different locations in the circuit.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4543/37505164374_5a0379906e_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Z9cLH5)
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enemy"Individual throttle bodies have no air plenum to soften the signal so some guys have come up with a simple mechanical fix!
Vacuum lines tee together from each cylinder, then to a restrictor (in my case, a .035 MIG tip) then to an air plenum (small plastic fuel filter)
Worked like a charm! Can be tuned using different sized restrictors and filters in different locations in the circuit. "
Like the workaround that. Very nice.
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impressive. how did you come up with this idea?
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Found a guy on the msextra forums that was using a couple little co2 cartridges from a BB gun that he tapped on both ends for vacuum lines to clean up the signal to the MAP sensor. I had a couple but they haven't been expelled yet and didn't want to waste them lol
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Where did you get your injectors from?
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Secondaries are Simens-Deka 44's I bought direct. If the Microsquirt works out like I'm hoping I will use the 42 high z's from RC injectors that will install in stock location instead of secondaries.
http://www.rceng.com/Saturated-Injector-SM2-0450-P69C13.aspx (http://www.rceng.com/Saturated-Injector-SM2-0450-P69C13.aspx)
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Got all the spaghetti plumbed in and pressurized! Had a hell of a time getting a tach signal from the coils, but Matt at DIYTune got me set up using the factory crank trigger and the stock 24-2 trigger wheel instead. So now I am that much closer to making this a full stand-alone and totally controlling fuel and spark ;D ;D
Rock solid signals all the way to redline and was able to pull to 5 psi loading the turbo against the brakes, but quit before I smoked the belt lol. I think it is going to spool rather quickly from the sounds of it!
Ended up building the intake plenum out of 2 pieces of 1/8" aluminum, and bonding the ends to the reused K&N filter gaskets with urethane. Cleaned it all up and shot some paint on it. Not sure how the factory filter lid will hold 10 psi at the seal but will give it a shot for now. Can cut a nice lid out of aluminum if need be to stiffen it up later.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4478/37505171054_7919676ed2_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Z9cNGf)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4583/38160234286_66db90f026_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2196baU)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4538/37505131344_5475c1300e_z.jpg)[/url (https://flic.kr/p/Z9cATA)
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:swig:
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Progress!
Had to build a new lid for the airbox, stock plastic was deforming and lifting at 4psi, so cut a 1/8"aluminum plate to reinforce it and ran the center stud all the way through the bottom of the lower plenum. So far holding nicely. Was hitting 6-7 psi on the dyno yesterday and putting down hp in the mid 60's. (double the factory wheel hp) Lights fast and has a nice flat curve to it. "Street dyno" was easily going to 9 psi but I have a little more tuning to do in that neighborhood to get it safe. Hard to tune when it wants to point to 12o'clock when it spools!
Will get some more ride time in and get the final results on the dyno before LS trip if all goes well!
http://vimeo.com/156213682 (http://vimeo.com/156213682)
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Bring the knee board, maybe there will be some water!! ;D
Sweet trailer dyno, Blue Moon has!!
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That would make for a damn fine LS trip! All that water a few years back was some of the most fun I have had down there.
He does have that trailer set up nice! Dyno is on an airjack that lifts and sets the casters on the floor so one guy can easily roll it out, and then a winch mounted to the dyno frame to pull it back in.
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Wellll,,,,,,,,,ain't that..........................ummmm,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,welllllllll----------------------------------
COOL!!!!!
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it is a very clean build and i am sure at some point you will get it dialed in just right at 10 psi and triple the hp of the engine lol
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That is a "beast of a brute" John. You did a really nice job stuffing all that in there. Will the drive train hold up to all that power? Now just keep it right side up ;D
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Drive train? What about the piston and rods ?
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had to make the upright statement huh ;) ;) rofl rofl
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Thanks guys!
I think the drivetrain will be fine, they are known to hold up to the 1000cc big bores that put down amazing torque. As far as the rods and pistons go, I hope I don't get carried away and find their limit, and I sized the turbo accordingly to keep me from doing just that lol! But if they do let go, I-beam rods, forged pistons and head studs are available for this block. Keeping the tune safe will play a huge factor.
It's a Brute.. It WILL take it ;D
Or it will explode and fall like a great warrior that just went through an epic sword battle to the death with full glory and honor
(just don't take out your block dammit, those aren't cheap!)
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I would think the cvt system would slip before damage to rest of drivetrain. And this V-twin has fairly low compression so a little boost should be ok. ;D
You do any clutch upgrades or adjusting?
Plus Fast said he'd pull ya back!!!! LMAO LMAO
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I would think the cvt system would slip before damage to rest of drivetrain. And this V-twin has fairly low compression so a little boost should be ok. ;D
You do any clutch upgrades or adjusting?
Plus Fast said he'd pull ya back!!!! LMAO LMAO
LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO
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I would think the cvt system would slip before damage to rest of drivetrain. And this V-twin has fairly low compression so a little boost should be ok. ;D
You do any clutch upgrades or adjusting?
Plus Fast said he'd pull ya back!!!! LMAO LMAO
You better have full body armor if fast is pulling you back rofl
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Body armor, full cage, front and side air bags and better suspension for getting launched off the peaks. Probably a set of side cutters for that fence we found as well!
LMAO
I clutched it for the big mudders a while back Carl with a heavier spring and different weights. I can also have the cv pulleys trued and cut, that would give a little more top end mph.
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Body armor, full cage, front and side air bags and better suspension for getting launched off the peaks. Probably a set of side cutters for that fence we found as well!
LMAO
I clutched it for the big mudders a while back Carl with a heavier spring and different weights. I can also have the cv pulleys trued and cut, that would give a little more top end mph.
Just use them to cut the rope!!!!
Cant wait too see it and try out while ya not lookin................. ;D
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How much did this all cost?
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I stopped keeping track after the very first purchase (turbo) so I wouldn't beat the shit out of myself for spending money on stuff that aint broke. A guess would be around 20k in hard parts. Labor hours again I didn't keep track of so I wouldn't beat the shit out of myself for doing this project when I should be using those hours working on finishing up my basement lol
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I stopped keeping track after the very first purchase (turbo) so I wouldn't beat the shit out of myself for spending money on stuff that aint broke. A guess would be around 2k in hard parts. Labor hours again I didn't keep track of so I wouldn't beat the shit out of myself for doing this project when I should be using those hours working on finishing up my basement lol
I know the feeling.........................oh well,life is all about balance I guess.
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Got the Brute out last Sunday for a real good shake down! After tightening up all clamps to seal any and all leaks, it is a very happy and freaky fast 9psi on the gate! Like stock manners with cold startup and slow creeping through the woods, but damn does it pull hard when it lights! All that noise through the intake is pleasant on the ears as well :) A touch more tuning up top and its ready to go back on the dyno. Going to have to do some more clutch work later on for the heavy Big Horns but paddle should be fine. Added a gauge pod on the intake lid and stuffed all the plastic back on. Tight fit with all the new spaghetti but went together well.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4453/37505140174_73eab0bf41_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Z9cDvQ)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4534/26439715909_6ffd12cbfb_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GhosoR)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4534/26439717499_4c4f589af4_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GhosSg)
Only problem so far is I blew the 3-bolt turbine intake flange gasket out. I could not find one for this particular turbo so I cut one out of thin aluminum just to get it on the dyno. It held through that and a full day of riding, but going to have to figure something else out for material.. Any ideas?
Was thinking cutting out of copper or this stuff -> http://www.jegs.com/i/Mr-Gasket/720/5960/10002/-1?parentProductId=749506#moreDetails (http://www.jegs.com/i/Mr-Gasket/720/5960/10002/-1?parentProductId=749506#moreDetails)
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If it's the intake,just good old red silicone. Make sure the flanges are flat and parallel though whatever you do,gasket or not. Likely reason for the failure was one or the other was not true to the other . FWIW,I use no gaskets on my race engines.All gray silicone and red for heat such as headers.
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Got my exhaust leak fixed up, ended up being a slip joint on the rear head pipe not pushed on all the way with a loose clamp. Reseated the exhaust, got the final tuning done and have now beat the snot out of the old grump in all of my 'normal' riding situations except for sinking it up to the handlebars. (mud and/or water). This part of the R&D will be happening very soon now that the sandbars are starting to show up. I have not got it back on the dyno yet, but did finally get some riding video.. WITH SOUND (stupid cameras..) This vid is at Genoa this past weekend. The water was very tempting, but gunna wait till it warms up more or I remember to bring the waders before going deep ;D ;D And I cant friggin wait! This thing is just a blast..
http://vimeo.com/167372479 (http://vimeo.com/167372479)
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freak of nature is what i call this brute!!!!! man that is incredible boosted
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That zip around Dueces, gave me ;D ;D ;D. And now my head wants to hear the spool on my car. ;)
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Boostmeister!!
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Update!
I have thoroughly beat the living piss out of the Brute all Summer and happy to report only had the factory fuel pump starting to get weak and the filter/sock fail from crap in the fuel. More likely from junk falling into the tank when filling it out in the middle of nowhere lol.. 4 years and a few hundred hours. Not complaining! The Micro-squirt, O2 controller, and MAP sensor are fully submersible ;D
This winter going to rebuild the front differential so I have a functioning diff-lock again, been without one for a while for reasons unknown... Filling it with water a few times in the past probably didn't help the clutch pack 5:
One more blast in the dunes next week!!!WOOHOO!!
A few pics out in the wilderness..
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very cool! what lake is that?
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That is Milford Lake, Kansas. Core of engineers has a part of the West side dedicated for OHV. Most trails can't fit much wider than the Brute, lots of bike paths and some very narly hill crawls/climbs. Some of them I was crab walking the sides of the path walls to get through. And when done riding, you can have your friends meet you at the most bad ass rope swing in a hidden cove with the pontoon and float the evening away! Good times!!
It was a bit overgrown on Labor day weekend, gunna have to go again after the first frost, dodge a few less spiderwebs in the thick bush lol.
The sand flats are the Platte River out around Rogers, NE. Spent a big chunk of my life on this one, lots of amazing memories airboating, riding, and just walking it for miles when it is low enough. Lots of deep channels this year to venture too far, but anytime I can sink my toes in the sand on it makes it worth every trip.
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I have another 100 hours on the Turbo Brute, and couldn't be happier with how it performs. These are hands down a very well built 4-wheeler. One issue that can pop up though is a somewhat weak cooling system capacity. After you run a heavier tires/rims, gear bag, extra fuel and tools, food and beer, and then start climbing slow trails at high altitudes the engine temps start to climb. This can be remedied by adding an oil cooler, which many wheelers have factory.. Guess Kawi decided against it lol. But also, the cooling fan and shroud (or lack there of) needs redesigned to get full air flow over the core. More on this in a bit.
To get oil the cooler I used a Derale oil filter adapter with feed and return lines with a built in relief valve in case a cooler plugs up for some stupid reason. Got this from eTrailer.com
https://www.etrailer.com/s.aspx?qry=D25772 (https://www.etrailer.com/s.aspx?qry=D25772)
Cooler is a 12 pass Derale as well with 8AN fittings and Aeromotive push-lock hose to handle the psi. Fit really good in front of the radiator with a couple aluminum brackets.
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To help out the baby radiator, I made some spacers to step the fan away from the core and built a shroud out of 1/8 abs. Now I get full air flow over the entire core, and the fan is not acting like 36 grit grinding disk on the aluminum when tiny Platte River gravel finds its way up there lol! These two simple mods did wonders. Just returned from a trail run up Kennaday Peak in Medicine Bow, WY and temps stayed "on the stat" no matter what I was climbing.
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Great job on the shroud!! ABS is a wonderful plastic to fab with for sure.
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Thank you! Stuff is damn fun to work and play with! I have been keeping various sheets in stock cause I am always finding something it can be used for..
I need to STOP watching guys vacuum mold it, making the brain giddy to try it lol
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I hear that !!!!
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thats brute force is just insane boosted!
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Oil cooler did the trick! Went and climbed some mountains a couple weeks back with Brother Don and temps never went over 200.
:nw
This is a vid I got from Walden, Colorado called North Sand Dunes. 8400ft at camp and climb up 1400ft.
The sand at this place is like St Anthony but not a lot of it, couple big flat play areas and a dune that blows over into Government Creek making for some nice sand trails in the trees.
MY favorite part of this area are the trails on the face of the mountain. A couple of them follow the range around the dunes and one ties into trails and roads winding all the way north to Medicine Bow range, Wyoming or East to the Continental Divide. A great place for a couple technical climbs, nice sand dune(s) for a day of play, and beautiful views both at the park and the drive in. We were a bit hazed out from the wildfires that flared up at Steamboat but the camera seems to filter that out... Interesting!
http://vimeo.com/291414032 (http://vimeo.com/291414032)
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This is hanging out above the timber line at Kennaday Peak in Wyoming, just west of Centennial and Snowy Range on 130. Another beautiful drive in and awesome views as far as the haze will allow!
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Cool area. Looks like the trails are too narrow for buggy’s, but would work for sxs. I loved the deer running across the trail. Thanks for sharing
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looks like a great run!
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WOW!!! So peaceful. Can see forever.
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FUN TRIP FOR SURE!