Read Hayabusa codes

[CrazyFastFab]

Is there a cheaper way to read the codes from the Hayabusa?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/280750392078?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I think I have the mess that was the wiring harness all cleaned up.  I need to go thru it again but it doesn't seem to be showing signs of life.  Power on and the gauges light up and cycle.  The fuel pump doesn't pressure up.  I could wire the pump to something else and turn it on that way but for now it is connected to the PCM.

[fabr]

Just use the factory busa gauge cluster to pull codes.

[CrazyFastFab]

Thanks, just found the jump and definitions to do that.

[dsrace]

how did you wire the side stand switch? there is a supposed to be a diode ( it shows this in the suzuki wire diagram)  in that connection. if that wire isn't right your fuel pump will not energize as well as a bad relay to the pump. otherwise you have a wire wrong. tip sensor also will shut off the fuel pump.

[fabr]

+1

[CrazyFastFab]

Thanks, I bought this engine from another guy that had it in his buggy.  I met him and saw it run in his car.  We than pulled the engine and it set in my shop for two years while I built my car. SO it did get some hanger rash.  Once I started wiring my car I have found several things wrong with the harness. I am convinced that he must have had times driving that the car such off while driving due to the mess that was the harness.  A lot of butt connectors and extra plugs connected to plugs.  Not saying mine looks any better but everything is soldered and marine heat shrinked.

To answer the question, brand new relay.  I am only using one type of replay so that in the middle of no where I can move the relays around if needed.  Knowing what I know about the rest of the harness I need to check the diode connections.  I have check that the diode is installed.

Throttle inlet sensor (TIP) where is this sensor located?  I don't readily see where the ECM would be picking that signal up.  I redid the entire fuel system maybe I left it out?

AS always thanks for the help!!!!

[dsrace]

there are two ground clusters in that harness as well and i would solder them together while you have it out cause they can give you trouble later on. you'll find the tip sensor in the wire diagram in your book. find the wires to it and track it down to see what he did with it. otherwise jump the pump to see if it works to be sure. there are only a few reasons why the pump wouldn't run with key on.  is there a fuse box still? also i believe if the pump won't energize then the inj's won't either depending on the issue. i have heard of some using a resistor to fool the tip sensor to remove it but the simplest way around that is to glue or secure the inside of the sensor all together lol

[fabr]

Make sure that you have a well charged battery also. You need ,I think ,11.7 volts minimum or it won't fire the plugs.

[dsrace]

Make sure that you have a well charged battery also. You need ,I think ,11.7 volts minimum or it won't fire the plugs.

+1     
 and also  on you pump you prob have 4 wires, two for sender and 1 pos and 1 grnd. check to see if you have voltage there, if not check the universal relay you installed to make sure you didn't get 2 wires crossed by accident. if the relay is right then you should be able to jump it and make the pump work. if you can do that then something is telling the computer to cut power to that relay in which case it either thinks the side stand is down and the bike is in gear or you tip sensor is telling the computer the bike is laid over. or a bad wiring problem beyond that. the motor does crank over doesn't it? depending on year of the motor many have a resistor on 1 wire from the factory switch that reduces voltage back to the computer that turns the computer on. if that isn't right it won't run but depending on how it all got wired the cluster and starter could still work. that's a tough one to tell with out seeing it or especially being the one that dressed the harness.

the tip sensor is a little black box about 2" wide and tall by about 1" thick that has a rubber sleeve over part of it to hang it on the frame. inside is a swinging pendulum so to speak , that breaks contact at certain angles to shut fuel and ignition off if you lay the bike down.

and the diode is a blocking diode so the system doesn't get feedback though the frame i assume. also make sure you install a neutral switch on the clutch, it also acts like a neutral safety switch but if you don't the computer will leave you in a neutral fuel map and never let you hit full rpm's either.  the engine will run better if you install the switch and pretty much any switch like a brake switch will work. i use the same brake light switch for that myself on my rail, same as my brake light switch so i know that one works. i could not find on my diagram if there was any kind of resistor or diode in the clutch lever so that is why i used the brake switch.

[fabr]

+1. Tell us what you may have deleted and how.

[Carlriddle]

Dont just wire the clutch switch together.  Nice write up on MBN about it.  It defaults you to a nuetral map, which retards timing and limits rev limiter. 

+1 to what other say above.

[CrazyFastFab]

Thanks again I found the tip tps sensors both where not correct. I still don't get codes from the dash with jumper installed. Is there a way to check that the ecm is working.

The stock fuse box no longer has anything attached.

The other guy also install a gear readout on the steering wheel it is not working either. Anyone have a wiring diagram for this?  Sounds like this may also be part of my problem If the ecm won't start if the car is in gear.

 I will have to look into the neutral switch.

I also could use a new connector for the speed healer.

[fabr]

Aw crap. Sounds like a butchered harness.  Enjoy your journey. BTDT. Do you have a correct wiring diagram showing the necessary mods?

[fabr]

 THERE IS SOME INFO YOU MAY NEED IN THIS THREAD.  Sorry,cap lock.  Anyway,     http://www.dtsfab.com/index/index.php?topic=319.0    try here. Next to last post.

[dsrace]

funny thing is that i missed that post or i would've added up the diagrams for zx10 r and 9r as well as r1's and i don't have any of the honda manuals anymore.