Best place to get U-joint Axles

[CrazyFastFab]

Where is the best place to get U-joint Axles?  I have a Jeffco so one end needs to have 930 flanges on them.  Is there a way to skip the 930 micro sub and connect the axle directly to the wheel bearing?  Thanks,

[fastcorvairs]

Where is the best place to get U-joint Axles?  I have a Jeffco so one end needs to have 930 flanges on them.  Is there a way to skip the 930 micro sub and connect the axle directly to the wheel bearing?  Thanks,

https://www.rcvperformance.com/store/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=54&osCsid=81

[fabr]

Why not try non plunge cv's and slip joint axles like these?  NONE of the plunging 930 issues at all. No heat and 40 degrees each way .
https://www.rcvperformance.com/store/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=66&osCsid=81

[CrazyFastFab]

Thanks, every car/ATV I have ever owned has had CV's and I have hated them.  I have read all the blogs on which is better.  This time I think I am going to try the u joints.

[fabr]

All you've likely read about were all the issues with plunging 930 cv's. Non plunge have none of those issues.

[Carlriddle]

Seems to be a lot of price swing in U-joints, from cheap to 60 payment plan.   A good 930 setup with proper plunge and angle limits is a solid driveline. 

With saying that, I'm running or will be, a inner fixed 930 from rcv and f150 outer and limit them to 35*. 

[fabr]

And you'll be fine since they both go 40 or more degrees. To me ,yes,uj shafts work. I just feel the non plunging cv based ones are a bit better especially if running a/h arm rear with little to no axle plunge like we are. There is a bit of plunge available in the splines of about 1/2" running the non plunge 930's so with them and a well designed rear there's no need for slip axles either. I will be doing away with mine soon and returning to solid axles. In either case a lot of axle plunge is not as desirable as lesser plunge. Bottom line,try to design rear the suspension whether trailing arm,semi-trailing arm ,a arms,or any other with the minimum plunge that can be had to avoid as many problems as possible with axles and cv's/uj's.

[LiveWire]

The F-150 CV has the same spline as the current 930 micro stubs as well. The CV and flange are all one piece.

[dsrace]

I have used uj's for years and I too do not like cv's but I am using the 930 non plunge on my current build to try something different. the nice thing about the 930 np's is the angle and cost vs the other but we will see. the steeper the angle on the u-j's the faster they wear vs a cv which is more angle = more heat which is what kills them but the tq rating doesn't decrease either like a uj does at extreme angle but you don't get the high heat like the cv either so it's really a personal choice. I have some adaptor flanges if  you want to have a local shop build you some shafts otherwise the good cv's are a good choice.

[sanddozer]

What years F150's used these cv's ?
Thanks in advance
Rich

[Carlriddle]

99-02 f150 4x4.  Contact Livewire on here for just the outter cv/stub or you can buy the whole axle locally and  pull off the parts you need.  BTW the inner joint is not a high angle joint.

[fabr]

99-02 f150 4x4.  Contact Livewire on here for just the outter cv/stub or you can buy the whole axle locally and  pull off the parts you need.  BTW the F150inner joint is not a high angle joint.

Just clarifying.

[LiveWire]

http://www.aftershockmotorsports.com/Custom-Buggy-Parts/Driveline/High-Angle-Heavy-Duty-CV-Joint

That CV not only fits the EMPI micro stub bearings, it will also fit an Intrepid bearing which is similar, but 5 on 4.5 instead of 5 on 4.75. 5 on 4.5 is much more common pattern. That is the bearing in the picture I posted above. The axles are 28" EMPI axles for 930 joints.

[CrazyFastFab]

What I am sick of is rebuilding CV's so this time I want to try the U-joints.  Yes I know each has issues but I would like to try new issues.

[LiveWire]

Some of those issues are going to be getting parts since everyone figures out and builds stuff toward CVs.

I would suggest looking at using the U-joints that are used in a Dana 44 solid front axle. That will get you the stub and U-joint yoke as one piece. The Dana 44 was used in all big 3 trucks in the past so you have a quite a selection of parts to choose from that will interchange. My '79 Blazer that was full time 4x4 did not have lock outs, but did have the hubs. There was just a gear that was driven by the stub and fit into the splines inside the hub. You could make your own aluminum hubs instead of the cast iron ones. The spindle bolts to the knuckle so you could get that off the shelf to bolt to a custom knuckle. There were some Dodges that I know of which did not have external hubs at all so would have shorter stub axles. I don't know what the internals looked like though. I don't know for sure, but I think the Dana 44 output stubs are the same 33 spline as the '97 F-150 and the Intrepid. If the Dodge is the same, you may be able to use it's stub shaft with the Intrepid hub/bearing combo.