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UTV Member Project Logs / Re: AR-51 build
« Last post by fabr on Today at 07:30:12 AM »
Well,
It's been a busy year so far and haven't been on here in a while!!  Well I have done a couple things to the car as of lately.
I went from a 10" ebay fan to a 12" Spal curved blade fan, drained my coolant and used some Royal Purple "water wetter" type stuff.  What I used before was distilled water and water-wetter.  I used distilled water per Suzuki.  However that is mixed with antifreeze.  Well I guess distilled water will actually draw minerals out of the cooling jacket and reduce the cooling efficiency?  Well, I now have purified drinking water and that Royal Purple additive.  All things combined, I can run it really REALLY hard in the dunes and it will get up to 210 with a 95* ambient air temp.  I don't push it past that, as I will stop for literally 30 seconds to a min. and it will drop to 190 and stay there under "normal" driving around on the dunes.  Possibly may go to a 4 row Civic rad vs the 2 row I currently have.


I thought I'd re-address this point. I called BS on it not because it is incorrect.  Water will always dissolve almost anything into it and make it more impure. That is a fact. SO,that said,yes distilled will draw minerals existing in the water jackets into it. Same with tap water. This is my take on this subject. If using brand new castings and radiator and all new coolant lines there is every reason to use distilled since there are no minerals to get dissolved into the distilled water. On a used block/heads,etc.,the use of distilled is still best practice but good clean tap will likely be just fine due to the fact distilled will "draw out "the deposited minerals coating the water jackets (so will tap water)and in effect turn it right back into tap water. Do I use distilled? Nope. I use 25-30ish% antifreeze to get the needed anti-corrosion and pump seal protection while keeping most of the good heat transfer that pure water would give.
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UTV Member Project Logs / Re: AR-51 build
« Last post by fabr on Today at 07:00:27 AM »
Fabr,
GREAT INFO, and thanks for that chart!  I will be draining my system today and will fill er up with some distilled water and antifreeze.  Ya can't argue with what you have stated at all. 

And for the engines, I agree too with the engines.  I like to have the availability of parts, pieces and whatever may be needed at any given time for an common engine. 

Justin
Distilled is not an absolutely ,100%,gotta have it or disaster happens thing either. It is the best practice but good clean tap will work almost as well.
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UTV Member Project Logs / Re: AR-51 build
« Last post by fabr on Today at 06:57:22 AM »
The answer to that is that there is no actual answer. Suspension tuning is a matter of driver preference and riding conditions within a big window of settings. You are within that window. What do YOU think will make you happy? Personally,I'd go out and drive it and see how you like it now. You made a HUGE spring rate change,need to try it out. As to having the ability to add some pre load if needed,yes you are right BUT you may be happy with the change you made  as it is. 
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UTV Member Project Logs / Re: AR-51 build
« Last post by deranged on Today at 05:26:25 AM »
So i made a quick spreadsheet of my available travel and shock stroke to see where I am at.

It looks like I have 10" of available travel with me in the car and near 11" in the front of available travel. 

So that being said, I think my ride height is pretty spot on, or should I drop down a spring size from 200 to maybe 150?  That will give me a window of adding some preload too.  I will have to crunch some numbers later today.

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UTV Member Project Logs / Re: AR-51 build
« Last post by deranged on Today at 04:53:08 AM »
I will definitely keep the Kawi in mind.  The numbers look really good for sure. 

A little rear spring update.  I put the new coils on last night and bolted on my dirt wheels to take it for a little spin around a construction site near my house.  WOW!  It feels like riding on a cloud now!  There was a small jump if you will.  Normally if I were to hit something like that, it would kick the ass end up.  Not now!  The valving seems to be pretty good too.  I had it on the softest setting on the clicker and I think I can actually stiffen it up a tad.  I may actually now get a slightly lighter spring for the top on the front. 

The rear, I have 4.5" of shaft in the shock in the rear.  (14" shock using 12" of stroke.) 
The front I have 4" of shaft in the shock with a 10" shock.  Seems like I could go another inch into the shock.  This would level the car out and get that front down a little more.
Below is a picture of how the car sits now, with my lovely assistant behind the wheel.
 

Justin
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Something to talk about / Why Big Bear in California Is One of My Favorite Places to Drive
« Last post by FeedBot on Yesterday at 05:15:45 PM »
Why Big Bear in California Is One of My Favorite Places to Drive

Big Bear Lake is a popular vacation spot for the hordes of human beings who live in Los Angeles, which means the joint can get pretty jammed up. But if you time it right, there are endless excellent roads and dirt trails to drive on while you enjoy the clean air you can only waft 5,000 feet above sea level. Here’s why…

Read more...


Source: Why Big Bear in California Is One of My Favorite Places to Drive

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This is from the fine folks at https://jalopnik.com/. RSS Feed via Jalopnik, some good, some bad, but always something to talk about.....

Feel free to discuss?  

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"AP" General Discusion / Re: car derived sxs
« Last post by Baloo on Yesterday at 12:25:43 PM »
speed range, well probably not that fast  I was never a racing driver I think about what could go wrong to much lol
don't think I will be the high side of 60 very often at all,  the only place I have to ride is my track which is tight and twisty  so was aiming for a short wheelbase to make it turn quick and be nimble,  will be registered for road use as well so  that's when it will see the higher speeds I guess

i see this as a prototype and making a revised version staright after this, a second golf has found its way to me via ebay already
just couldent say no to a VR6 4wd version for $300, looking to evealuate the first one which is an 1800cc turbo  the audi 20v engine against the second one which is 2.8 normaly asperated ( for the moment )  should be an intereesting comparison  and of course it will be 4wd


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The Pit Stop / Re: well hell
« Last post by fabr on Yesterday at 10:13:15 AM »
Just like a liberal. You decide you won even though you lost the election.  :m :m just kidding ya know.  Honestly though,your argument was a loser this time. Unless you really are a socialist that is.  ;)
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"AP" General Discusion / Re: car derived sxs
« Last post by fabr on Yesterday at 09:28:42 AM »
onto the work bench and I can see where the suspension tops need to be
just need to copy over the engine mounting position in the same way  and I can get rid of the old body shell I keep tripping over


Back to your topic,baloo,it looks like you have a good game plan . I'm really interested in the results. I had envisioned a slightly longer wheel base for high speed stability. That brings up the question of what is your anticipated speed range for this project.
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"AP" General Discusion / Re: car derived sxs
« Last post by fabr on Yesterday at 09:24:19 AM »
I just asked re: Chassis.  Hope they respond.

And they did.  Not a lot of detail, but some insight. 

Quote
Good Morning Jeffrey,

We use bronze welding because it has very slight flex in it as you say.I have brazed a lot of things in my fabbing life and I would only use brazing on sheetmetal ,never in a structural application . Yes,I an agree that it allows a very small amount of flex but it is that flex that will allow the bronze or brass filler to fail much sooner than a weld. It also induces less localised heat in the tubes, increasing strength. Reading between the lines of that they are saying that less skilled welders are needed to assembly the frame. They are using thin wall tubing that can ,with a lesser skilled laborer,induce way too much heat into the weld creating a much larger HAZ(heat affected zone) that is not a good thing.

Regards
 
Henry
 
Henry Siebert-Saunders
There is a reason the suspension is tigged. Plain and simple it is because it is the much stronger joining practice. Lots of new cars are using sil bronze brazing on sheetmetal bodies/built up structures as is used in unibodies and it is a better method than welding or spot welding of thin sheetmetal for that application. 
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