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UTV's Off Road ( RZR, YXZ, Mini Buggy, Carts,etc.) => UTV Motor and Drivetrain => Topic started by: 405dentech on November 06, 2008, 06:03:50 PM
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I am planning on running an idler sprocket for the chain tensioner. My question is does it need to be manually adjustable, mounted solid, or can I set it up were it pivots front to back and the tension be applied with a strong spring? Kind of like self adjusting.
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No on the spring.
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I would slot my motor mounts or adjust the axle, before using an idler to tension the chain.
It takes a huge amount of movement to tension a chain with an idler.
This is just my opinion though.
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Yea like Rick said, try to move the axle or motor mounts first to adjust the chain tension. I used 1/4" plate with slots to move the rear axle and bearring carrier back and forth to take out the slack. I had everything welded up before I knew that the original rear sprocket (44tooth) was way too small. The one I use now is a 60tooth but it was almost twice as big and wouldn't fit inside the frame or between the original mounts, so I had to implement an idler sprocket to re-route the chain from hitting a tube cross brace. Or cut up the rear frame and re-weld all new pieces and I was tired of cutting and welding stuff back in, HA, HA!!
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Yeah i here ya on the cutting apart and re-welding. It's getting old. Thats why I haven't even gone out and checked the bumpsteer and updated this post on it yet. :P
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I'll be using an idler to clear the case on my current build too.
My 954 had the eccentric axle and I also slotted the motor mounts for additional adjustment. Here is how I adjusted the motor forward and back using a jack screw arrangement.
The crossmember had clearance tubes welded through. Loosen motor mounts and the jam nuts against the rod ends, then turn the bolts from the rear, moving the motor forward or back. Worked great. I had to slot my exhaust mounts as well.
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi363.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Foo76%2FKrasch_Design%2Fde0f89d7.jpg&hash=f7e84a491a2e35b09d39ac26fdb4a3164f7ce595)
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi363.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Foo76%2FKrasch_Design%2Fbb9eb34c.jpg&hash=df87be2266f7037f42ff65484dedc199841f5743)
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That looks like a good idea. I definately don't want to cut the carrier loose. I have room for a setup like that. But if might be easier to design an adjustable idler setup. All my motor mounts are already welded up.
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Dent,
It might be worth it in the long run for you to slot it now :-[
Chain tensioners tend to toss the bearings in them at the worst possible time, The damage to the motor/trans can get spendy...Plus that famous walk back to the truck...I slot the motor mount,the jackshaft mount,and the carriers on the swing arm...But I use swing arm rears
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I have slots cut on carrier mount plate in the frame and my carrier sit in a cradle, so to a chain adjustment I pull the carrier back my idler is welded in the frame
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Anyone want to buy this piece of crap so I can just start over? I will never buy a half (finished) buggy again!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I will either build it from ground up or buy a finished one from one of you guys that know how to build them. 1: 1: 1: 1: 1: 1: 1: 1: 1:
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Beginning to think I got fxxked on this (good) deal.
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Beginning to think I got fxxked on this (good) deal.
Keep the faith - The smile on your face once it is the way you want it and ripping down the trail will make the current pain go away.
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Dont feel bad. I had to completely redo the suspension on the roller that I paid someone to build. It was weak and all the geometry was wrong. I got tons on bump steer and folded up the arms. Its only metal and you can always reweld anything you need to.
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i totally hear ya on giving up... i have cut and welded, cut and rewelded. over and over again. total redesign about twice on the rear end. made arms, threw arms away, made more, added more to the pile. finally i have it where i think it will work. and i dread the thought it may not work and haveing to cut shit off and redo it.. so sick of that. just do like me, and spend countless hours on a stool staring at the damned buggy lol.
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We've all been there!
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That is how we all learned to do this stuff. If you screw up you wont do it next time. All of us have had to do it this way. Anyone who says they have not cut stuff apart to fix it at least once is full of shit. And you have lots of people who know what they are doing right here to answer your questions and help you not make the same mistakes we all made. Im sure someone here lives near you and might be able to pay you a visit to help too, for some beer of course. Dont give up you havent even broke anything yet!
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Thanks guys I really appreciate the support and all the help you all have given me so far. ;D Hell I only gave $2500 for this thing with the motor. The pics of it with the 4 wheeler shocks on the front is what it looked like when I got it. So I thought I got a good deal. I'm beginning to think that the guy had just got fed up with it. I'm not going to quit on this one though. I just can't wait to get it done so I can start a ground up build for my 3 boys. BUT better to make mistakes on my buggy rather than theirs.
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See your back in the groove, we've all had the blow it to hell moments. Just gotta stand back and take a breather. Like master said earlier definately NO on the spring. I'm refabbing my rear carrier to eliminate my idler sprocket. I had mine mounted to a pivoting arm with 2 strong springs. Well not strong enough appearently. I kept breaking springs, it made a ton of noise and ended up getting caught up with the chain when the chain broke, made a nice little mess. Now my carriers going to be the part that moves to take up the slack. Good luck man, have some fun.
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so why would a serpentine belt tensioner off a performance factory car not work? of course mounting a sprocket to it?
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Because it won't. Spring loaded tensioners are just begging to cause you grief. Under decel it will allow the top to go slack and then you end up with a tooth skipping chain.Not good.
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so why would a serpentine belt tensioner off a performance factory car not work? of course mounting a sprocket to it?
I agree with Fabr here 100%
Belts are ALWAYS slipping (some) unless they are cogged teeth on cogged sprockets (then you hope they are not) Serpentine belts on the front of a motor are never subjected to the loads and shocks a drive chain does spinning a rear axle under load. Even if you rev a motor up and down fast the driven accesories impart minor loads.
A rear drive chain can inpart a few thousand pounds of force pretty easy even on a light machine (say bottoming out off a jump with with a major throttle change. Remember the leverages sprockets/tires can impose)
I have seen springs work on slow chains on agricultural equipment that do not carry big loads but never seen the used successfulley anywhere else.