CVT Info

[Admin]

You better do some research.... Things have come a long ways since 1970...

[SPEC]

Why? I don't call you for help when I got clutching problems

[Admin]

[Admin]

Why? I don't call you for help when I got clutching problems

Irelevant... Has nothing to do with the fact that you can get overdrive in a cvt system...

[SPEC]

This was fun ...but the percs are kicking in...Fingers are numbing...Kida like some ones head
And they still won't go 1 to 1 PULLING A LOAD...

[Admin]

This was fun ...but the percs are kicking in...Fingers are numbing...Kida like some ones head
And they still won't go 1 to 1 PULLING A LOAD...

Better take some more perks and go give it another try.... CVT is torque sensing, lot more factors involved than you just saying to a new guy it cant....

[SPEC]

nO BUG THE PRIMARY WILL SQUEEZE TILL THE SHEEVES ARE BOTTOMED OUT AND YOU RUIN THE CLUTCH sorry caps lock On p-85's the belt is already jammed the secondary and shredding

[SPEC]

what the fook have I been saying.....UNDERLOAD...

[Boostinjdm]

Back to what I am trying to figure out.   I have a polaris 400 single out of a scrambler and clutches.  On Aaen's site they have dino charts for stock and modified.  Mine will start out as stock because it is brand spankin new.  What engine rpm should I use when figuring gear ratio, peak torque where the shifting should occur, or pick up the pieces and walk home rpm.  The charts show that when you modify the engine the torque curve and rpms change, I am hoping that in the future when mods are made I can adjust for this by changeing tire size or clutching since I want to make my own chaincase and was informed that changing ratios in the case is not the way to go.  Does anyone know the ratio's of stock polaris clutching or where to find it.  If I know the low range, say 3:1, and I figure I can do 10mph at peak torque rpm when the shifting occurs, then I can assume I will have wheel spinning power at take off.  If I know the high range is, say 1:1, and I figure I can do 60mph at peak torque just before the clutching shifts out, then I can assume I can reach the top speed that makes me happy.  Am I correct in assuming that after the clutch shifts out then the top speed is determined by resistance or the engine going kaboom?

[SPEC]

I'm Sure Bug will disagree, but the take off is controlled by the spring and weights in the primary....The shift rate is controled by the helix and spring in the secondary...The over-all is controlled by the motors out put...If you feel the motor is over revving go to a smaller rear sprocket......

[SPEC]

Sorry I misread your post what does aaen say your stock torque numbers are? I don't do the atv powerplants...Drivability is what you want
primary clutched too high is hell on belts ,fuel ...and touph to drive...Bug should be able to do some quick thinking and tell you...Me I think at least 500 to 1000 below peak torque would give yo a good off the line and reasonable drivability

[Admin]

nO BUG THE PRIMARY WILL SQUEEZE TILL THE SHEEVES ARE BOTTOMED OUT AND YOU RUIN THE CLUTCH sorry caps lock On p-85's the belt is already jammed the secondary and shredding

why would this ruin the clutch, they are made to stop so the belt dont flop off the top...

[Admin]

top speed is always at rev limiter...my engine for example, 8200 at peak performance, so clutch for reasonable take off, say 3500-4000, Im hitting at 5500 right now, then after take off which is belt slip, you get full squeeze lbs at 8200 rpm, then it shifts till max shift out,maintaining 8200 rpms ideally. after that the rpms take over, and raise the top speed till it rev limits...

Spec you better goto bed, your starting to get silly on us....

[Admin]

My peak torque is 8200 rpm, I cant imagine i would want 7200-7700 engagement rpms... engagement is totally up to the user, i dont think there is a pre defined set of parimeters, the higher the engagement the more hp you need tho...

[SPEC]

I guess you haven't seen one that has shredded the belt with an idiot on the hammer...any fool can tell you DO NOT REV THE ENGINE WITHOUT THE BELT. tHE CLUTCH IS DESIGNED TO ONLY SHUT AS FAR AS THE BOTTOM OF THE BELT THATS tHE SKINNY SIDE OF THE TAPER...EFFEN CAPS LOCK wich is a little over an inch on a standard polaris sled belt, after that the spring pressure sky rockets and the weights get damaged...why don't you go pull the belt off yer drak...rev the motor till it blows come back and tell me I'm wrong