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UTV's Off Road ( RZR, YXZ, Mini Buggy, Carts,etc.) => UTV Motor and Drivetrain => Topic started by: Carlriddle on June 27, 2013, 02:19:44 PM
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Doing some more planing just incase a deal falls in my lap. ;D Got a few things to move and I dont want to move twice, so?? I'm going to put a turbo on the 12r, prob only 8-10lbs as that seems to be very safe for the stock insides. With an intercooler should be in the 250hp range. ;D ;D ;D
Now the ? ? ?'s Had a couple places rec a nice td04l-13t. Small turbo from several cars, but when I do the formula calculations I found online it falls on the lower side of the compressor map. Where have you found info for stuff you've used or did you just do what some else said, LOL?
zx12 8-10lbs boost
What/where formula you use?
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Using a busa made it easy. Many people have done it and there's a boatload of info available. I use a Garrett GT25R ball bearing turbo. Some may say a BB turbo is not necessary. It isn't BUT a huge plus in reduced spool time.For our purposes ALWAYS err on the side of too small. Too big will spool up too late. IMO full boost needs to be reached by about 4000-4500rpm on a bike powered car.
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I do want ball bearing. 12 revs 1k higher than busa but I was thinking full boost by 6k? Max torq at 7500k. Several turboed 12's but little info as to turbo size and the ones that do are using big ass turbos and making 400+ hp but with motor work. While I give up 100 cc to a busa turbo sizing should be close. When doing the math; long drawn out way useing volumn of air X pressure X hp divided rpm and some other stuff it plots on the lower R of comp map. Right in sweet spot just low. Does that mean turbo will be good for 25lbs, yep, but is it too big for current wants w/o going in motor. Want to stay with pump gas, maybe a little 108 blend for something crazy!!
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I do want ball bearing. 12 revs 1k higher than busa but I was thinking full boost by 6k? Max torq at 7500k. Several turboed 12's but little info as to turbo size and the ones that do are using big ass turbos and making 400+ hp but with motor work. While I give up 100 cc to a busa turbo sizing should be close. When doing the math; long drawn out way useing volumn of air X pressure X hp divided rpm and some other stuff it plots on the lower R of comp map. Right in sweet spot just low. Does that mean turbo will be good for 25lbs, yep, but is it too big for current wants w/o going in motor. Want to stay with pump gas, maybe a little 108 blend for something crazy!!
Too big a hair dryer will not make boost soon enough for good drivability,IMO. If you are not making full boost till 6K you will be disappointed,IMO. You would be well served by an off the shelf GT25R or equivalent.
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Ill hunt up a map for the gt25 tomm and see how that plays.
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remember that there are different trims available also that alter the maps.
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Ball bearing turbos are the ONLY way to go. I used a IHI race turbo, old Nissan stuff, on my 2332 VW motor and LOVED IT!! Ran it on alky, LOVES IT.
I would not try to run on pump gas, I cant believe how many people Want to make Power but are to CHEAP to buy race gas and then complain when it all goes bad. You have a lot of compression and timing.....................The compression is actually good, allows you to run the boast to a lower number and helps keeps the bottom end power good.
If I were running a turbo I would run E85, cheap and like alky turbos love it. You would need to double your injector size. Leaving the stock injectors in place and doing a set of top injectors in the plenum would be would be the best way to go, again using E85.
Turbos make power, no question, however like everything else the better the package the better its going to work.
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8#'s is just fine on 91 pump gas. 10 psi is good with a good tune. Don't let it lean out above 8. Actually,IMO ,the Hahn portfueler is the slickest/easiest way to add supplemental fueling. Not in any way knocking the use of E85 other than availability.
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Back to top. Found a steal on a Garrett gt1752. Little baby dryer but will make easy 10lbs by 5k. But at redline it outside the turbo map. This is if I know what I'm doing which is highly suspect as its after 5 on fri 13th. Lol
It will start boost at 2500 rpm, just concerned with overspinning it.
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You will find out.I'm skeptical if it is a good choice. WHat have you read about turboing your engine?
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Only ones with detail of turbo where a mitsi td04-13/14 and a gt28. But those two where making 400hp. You said I couldn't go to small LMAO. It wouldn't make over 14lbs ever and I couldn't without motor work.
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Your calcs show it not to be a good choice,Carl. Why try it? The turbo won't like it. Honestly for your high revving motor,having full boost not until maybe 6-7K would be just fine.
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Ok so I picked up this little turbo yest. Its basically a gt20 with a diff comp side. Garrett put it togther for a sabb 9.3 and 9.5 2 liter engine. It will be rebuilt over the winter for an instal. ;D
I used info on 3 diff places to plot on the turbo map I found for it, I got 3 diff answers.
No time now, off to insulate trailer for trip...................
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Ok so I picked up this little turbo yest. Its basically a gt20 with a diff comp side. Garrett put it togther for a sabb 9.3 and 9.5 2 liter engine. It will be rebuilt over the winter for an instal. ;D
I used info on 3 diff places to plot on the turbo map I found for it, I got 3 diff answers.
No time now, off to insulate trailer for trip...................
so ....turbo hmmmmm.........enemy finally got to ya huh.... rofl
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Only 98% enemy's fault. LMAO
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Ya know, I sure do get blamed for a lot of stuff around here!
:'(
..Wait a minute.. only 98%?
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi516.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fu329%2Fbeerfarm1%2Fblah_zpse7d5f093.jpg&hash=ab3bcd77dee6be647dd5dd35c09affd56271548f) (http://s516.photobucket.com/user/beerfarm1/media/blah_zpse7d5f093.jpg.html)
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LMAO
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:-* :-* :-* :-* rofl rofl
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rofl rofl rofl LMAO ;D ;)
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:-* :-* :-* :-* rofl rofl
Carl you will need a turbo to get you out of this hole.
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Cant wait to try Fast.
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Cant wait to try Fast.
Start making plans for the second week of September 2014.
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Start making plans for the second week of September 2014.
how about the third week of july 2014?
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Pretty sure my wife and kiddo will cross the country for St A. So before school starts back be best for us. Prob make a 10-12 day trip, 2-1/2 ea way driving. And break up sand days with so site seeing trips.
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how about the third week of july 2014?
To dam hot in July up there.
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Pretty sure my wife and kiddo will cross the country for St A. So before school starts back be best for us. Prob make a 10-12 day trip, 2-1/2 ea way driving. And break up sand days with so site seeing trips.
Spend one night here in my driveway. Then hit the road for St Ann.
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the guys I know from Utah that go up there several times a year say july hits about 86* on norm and cools down quick at night but the drive there out of neb will be a hot one lol idk though cause I've never been there.
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In my worldly travels (on www.) I found a steal on a t25 turbonetics turbo kit. Newly rebuilt turbo, greedy BOV, downpipe w/flange, bunch alum tube silicon boots and clamps. Also has an intercooler. Came off a little rice burner car, guess you could say its going back on a little rice burner. rofl
Intercooler has a bent bottom, no leaks, but wont look good. And I can pu some the same size for -$100. Or for +$1k. Is there that much diff in them? Seem to be same style of cooler except for some 2 core and water to air, they are all bar-plate-fin type. Only looking for 8-10lbs. What say you?
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Do air to air for simplicity. Water to air is better but you won't need it. For our purposes the cheapo's are just fine .
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Agree on air to air.
But there are two type; bar & plate, and tube & fin.
Bar & plate; double + the money, double the weight. Much better internal flow, but worse exterior flow. Shouldnt be placed in front of rad, better suited for long on boost use.
Tube& fin; cheap, light. Can chop the internal flow, better exteior cooling. Can place in front of other cooling items. Workes better for on & off boost.
So I'm picking up a new $100 cooler. Tube and fin style and they're doing some flow stuff to help smooth out inside air. Also gotta pickup and external wastegate.
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Bar and plate would have been a better choice. Whatever you do though,don't place it in front of the rADIATOR.
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Bar and plate would have been a better choice. Whatever you do though,don't place it in front of the rADIATOR.
Yeah I'm already have rad cooling problems with long runs. But I'm also doing a true oil cooler, as the zx12 uses a funky thing that flow coolant thru to cool oil/heat coolant.
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Nothing wrong with the water/oil oil cooler. Engines like oil of proper temperature. Have you actually checked max oil temp of your engine? I'll bet it's not out of range. If you add an auxiliary cooler it should be thermostatically controlled. Ya,I know, most people ignore that part.
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No not check oil temp. Just my rad even after moving it up still not able to keep temps down. I may have something else going funky in coolant system.
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No not check oil temp. Just my rad even after moving it up still not able to keep temps down. I may have something else going funky in coolant system.
+1