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UTV's Off Road ( RZR, YXZ, Mini Buggy, Carts,etc.) => UTV Controls and Electrical => Topic started by: Jerry on December 03, 2008, 04:20:08 PM

Title: hardline breaks
Post by: Jerry on December 03, 2008, 04:20:08 PM
I am going to use 3/16 hardline brake line for my main line and 3/16 flex to the calibers (seams to be the standard). does anyone offline know what the outside dia of the line is. I will need to do some bending and not sure what bender i need.

Any one have do's or not's??
Title: Re: hardline breaks
Post by: fabr on December 03, 2008, 07:14:40 PM
3/16 " .Tube is measured by OD. Pipe is by ID.     
Title: Re: hardline breaks
Post by: fabr on December 03, 2008, 07:15:59 PM
Oh and do an inverted/double
 flare on all break lines.
Title: Re: hardline breaks
Post by: Voodoochikin04 on December 08, 2008, 03:26:25 AM
beware of the cheap double flare kit they sell at the parts stores. i broke two sets, one after another trying to double flare some brake line. the first flare worked good, then i inserted the little die that creates the other flare, snapped both times right when it tightened down. 
Title: Re: hardline breaks
Post by: Jerry on December 08, 2008, 05:41:47 AM
I want to learn here, Why a double inverted flare and not the standard 45 flare that comes on the brakeline.
Title: Re: hardline breaks
Post by: fabr on December 08, 2008, 06:10:11 AM
It COMES with an inverted flare.Brake line is not available in ready made lengths without a double/inverted flare. The reason for its' use is to provide a compressible "gasket" at the fitting that will not leak without having to over torque a single flare in a weak brass fitting.
Title: Re: hardline breaks
Post by: LiveWire on December 08, 2008, 02:54:38 PM
I have never seen any place selling 45 degree flare, but that may be what you would get from a place selling stainless braided lines since the AN fittings are what are commonly used with them. The AN 45 single flare seal well with light torque, but the flares are hard to make. I have a tool I paid over $100 for to make them that is supposed to prevent splitting the tube. I found if there is the slightest burr on the tube, it will be the start of a crack when flaring though. So I cut them, sand on the belt sander then wire wheel. Of course then they have to be cleaned out wheel when done.
Title: Re: hardline breaks
Post by: fabr on December 08, 2008, 03:37:48 PM
Never had a problem making double flares.I use a Rigid small tube cutter ,ream the hole, and then double flare.  ONE time I had one split and yes it was due to cutting off with a cutoff saw that left a bur..
Title: Re: hardline breaks
Post by: Admin on December 08, 2008, 03:40:26 PM
A single flare is metric... ;D

(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.relitech.com%2Ftech%2Fbrakeln%2Fflare6.jpg&hash=e72792c2f5d189cfb24ef5e764b03573b94f0740)
Title: Re: hardline breaks
Post by: fabr on December 08, 2008, 04:09:24 PM
 ;D I'm American.  ;) ;D
Title: Re: hardline breaks
Post by: Jerry on December 16, 2008, 05:27:16 AM
Here is a silly/basic question. Do you start bleeding the lines from the closest to master or the farthest? It has been a long time since i bleed brakes.

Thank you
Title: Re: hardline breaks
Post by: SPEC on December 16, 2008, 05:56:36 AM
Here's a good rundown on it ;D
http://dtsfab.com/index/index.php?topic=302.0 (http://dtsfab.com/index/index.php?topic=302.0)
Title: Re: hardline breaks
Post by: fabr on December 16, 2008, 11:17:58 AM
Thanks spec.I don't know who that fool is that wrote that but he seems like he's bled a few. bb: aa: :m
Title: Re: hardline breaks
Post by: Punkur67 on December 16, 2008, 11:35:31 AM
Just a cool little trick i use. I use a drill bit to ream out my lines instead of those stupid little reamers that come with the kits, faster, easier, and cleaner.
Title: Re: hardline breaks
Post by: fabr on December 16, 2008, 12:36:32 PM
Be sure to blow out the lines after flaring also.
Title: Re: hardline breaks
Post by: SPEC on December 16, 2008, 03:09:55 PM
 ;D you said BLOW :o ;D
Title: Re: hardline breaks
Post by: Jerry on December 18, 2008, 05:43:55 PM
I am bleeding the brakes. I do not see any leaks. Have filled the resivor 3 times, all air seams to be gone. Pedal dose not seam different, and brakes do not seam to be grabbing.

?? IS by frt calipers are wilwood and have 4 bleed screws per caliber. I was only bleding the two inside screws i need to do them all right? ANy special order? I have never seen a caliper with 4 bleed screws please inlighten me? Protodie put the frt hubs together as per rorrtys r6 plan.
Title: Re: hardline breaks
Post by: Jerry on December 18, 2008, 06:42:11 PM
OK CALL ME STUPID, the caliper can have fluid run to either side depend on how u want to mount it...
Title: Re: hardline breaks
Post by: fabr on December 18, 2008, 07:52:10 PM
I am bleeding the brakes. I do not see any leaks. Have filled the resivor 3 times, all air seams to be gone. Pedal dose not seam different, and brakes do not seam to be grabbing.

?? IS by frt calipers are wilwood and have 4 bleed screws per caliber. I was only bleding the two inside screws i need to do them all right? ANy special order? I have never seen a caliper with 4 bleed screws please inlighten me? Protodie put the frt hubs together as per rorrtys r6 plan.
ALWAYS start at the point farthest from the master cylinder and work your way back. No pedal =air in line still. Start over from the beginning,do not skip any steps,do not let m/c run dry at ANY time while bleeding.If it does START OVER.
Title: Re: hardline breaks
Post by: Jerry on December 19, 2008, 06:05:08 PM
I have bleed till i have no more blood, still nothing.

So here is what i have the frt calipers are wilwood dynalites, the back are off a polaris 700. I have no leaks. The master is a  single cnc 3/4. I am getting no air. Never run dry.

The bleed screws on the outside of the frt calipers i get nothing out of, there is no fluid going to them, so bleeding them makes no sence.

I get no caliper movement anywhere.

The pedal hanger is from Doug Hiem.

I am begining to think by master is to small,  any sugestion for a regular car master??
Title: Re: hardline breaks
Post by: Admin on December 19, 2008, 06:10:16 PM
are the caliper designed for the correct rotor width?
Title: Re: hardline breaks
Post by: Admin on December 19, 2008, 06:11:13 PM
What type of master cylinder are you using?
Title: Re: hardline breaks
Post by: Jerry on December 19, 2008, 06:13:27 PM
It is a round cnc 3/4 single .
Title: Re: hardline breaks
Post by: Admin on December 19, 2008, 06:19:46 PM
Im brain dead tonight, i didnt even see that in the inital post, lol.... the rear is working fine tho? how did you tee them in, something plugged up or is the hardline kinked?
Title: Re: hardline breaks
Post by: Jerry on December 19, 2008, 06:28:13 PM
Nothing is working.

I came ofthe master with a flex line, to a t, 1 side of the t goes to the frt the other to the rear, when it gets to the rear the line t's again to the wheels, all the hardline is 3/16 an i get fluid to all the wheels, and no leaks that i can see no drips.

The frt calipers have 4 bleed screws why?
Title: Re: hardline breaks
Post by: Admin on December 19, 2008, 06:29:48 PM
Can you link to the caliper via the web somewere, maybe try wilwoods website?
Title: Re: hardline breaks
Post by: Jerry on December 19, 2008, 06:31:53 PM
Never tried it before but i will try.
Title: Re: hardline breaks
Post by: Jerry on December 19, 2008, 06:33:27 PM
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=WIL%2D120%2D9687&N=700+400196+4294846904+115&autoview=sku (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=WIL%2D120%2D9687&N=700+400196+4294846904+115&autoview=sku)
Title: Re: hardline breaks
Post by: Admin on December 19, 2008, 06:34:21 PM
Just find it somewhere online, right click the picture and hit properties, then highlight the web address and select copy. reply in the thread and right click again and hit paste... ;D

Guess im to late: lol
Title: Re: hardline breaks
Post by: Admin on December 19, 2008, 06:35:37 PM
the 4 bleeders are only so you can mount it any direction and have a bleeder at the top, you have to do both sides but not top and bottom...
Title: Re: hardline breaks
Post by: Jerry on December 19, 2008, 06:37:38 PM
I will goout now and try bleeding them
Title: Re: hardline breaks
Post by: Jerry on December 19, 2008, 07:08:29 PM
I now feel like and fool. I blead the lines again including both top bleed screws (i had to take the wheels off to get to the frtoutside blead srcews) and now i have BRAKES. I did not see how the fluid got to the outside bleeders it most go though part of the caliper.

MAN I AM LEARNING SO MUCH

Thank you again Bugpac (Master)
Title: Re: hardline breaks
Post by: Admin on December 19, 2008, 07:10:42 PM
Some have short steel lines that cross side to side, some have internal passage ways... Glad to hear you got it...
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