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so the one time i saw the vac gauge on tuner studio it read 15" vac(approx 57kpa). now that was a fresh motor with 0 runtime. i don't know current vac at idle. so i'm pulling the turbo today so plug pics that way are out. i believe i have a hole in the flex coupler on dp 2 to 4" above my 02 sensor.Flow some propane from an unlit propane torch around the area and see if the O2 reading changes as you do so. No need to do the work till you are sure it needs done.when you say set timing where vac is highest....do you mean electronic timing advance through tuner studio? other wise there isn't a way to do so while the engine is running. i don't have a distributor. that timing map comes in stingers flash drive for base maps. You can't alter timing with the engine running with your system?Why? I can with my software. My efi controls and I can make changes in real time. Even if you can't,you can make initial timing changes and then restart to engine to see differences. we have not altered that timing map at all as it is a safe timing map.Safe and wrong. stinger says to add timing down low in the low rpm cells for take off. he said that is the strategy used on auto trans as they don't have the ability to rev rpms on take off like a manual. True,and when you get it right at idle you will have your max idle vacuum.again part of this issue is my gearing i know this but on the same note i took off in 2nd gear in dougs and steves.....1 to 2 psi boost comes in quick and those rails take off no issue after that, mine is over a 1000 rpm later in the rpm band. IMO,as I have said before,it's your tune and you verify you have not done a thing to the ignition tune and your off boost fuel is too lean for your cam. There's your issue/s . That "safe" ignition tune is crap. All that you are redoing will be disappointing as well if you don't do the ignition tune,especially with a cam that is significantly different from what stinger set the ignition tune for. If it were me,I'd do a lot more tuning before I threw the baby out with the bath water.
i agree and am trying to learn but i got enough mind warps going on lol jon speaks that language though. the ecu, in the setting selected, recalculates stoich to lamba for my afr based on alcohol content for afr reading for me. i do not have the flex sensor active for the ecu to make changes based on that yet. once tuned then closed loop can be selected and flex can command changes.
Honestly,from what I'm reading from you,you just want a tractor that runs like a top fuel. That ain't a gonna happen. You need to choose one or the other. That said,there's no reason what you have now can't be made to work much,much,much better with some ignition and fuel tuning that suits your combo. Your timing is off and so is the fueling.
I know Jon speaks it but he is tuning it like a pretty much stocker with a turbo added. It shows in the tune charts. You have a cammed up engine that will require significantly different tune. If the tune is off on a stocker the engine will overlook it a bit. With a cammed up engine not so much. You are not overly cammed though by any stretch of the imagination.If you have any exhaust leaks before the O2 sensor ,or even after since O2 can and will revert into the exhaust for a long way, you will have zero luck getting it to run well period no matter your combo. interesting thing is my cam card duration isn't much diff however now after being informed that my actual duration might be 20* longer i just don't know. so far the delta cam card is correct at valves/ head. I'd like to have seen a log more than your settings also. IMO,you're just throwing in the towel way too soon.
this was wessk's statement.......What did you ever figure out with the items I told you to look into? Never heard response on forum. As bad as you said off idle transient response was, there is certainly some issue, regardless of where it makes boost.That being said, if sub 3000 rpm power is important to you, most of the "racey" things people do to these is directionally wrong. The small EFR would certainly be a good selection, but if you want to make power with small displacement, gearing it so it can turn RPM is critical.What valve lift is your head good for currently? Directionally, I think you would be most happy with having your existing Engle ground for less duration and the most lift you can package. Engles valve events on that card are at the lobe not valve. This means that that "222/218" is really "246/242" at the valve. If you want to compare it to an Esslinger or Snyder grind, they are at the valve.Snyder will grind it however you want for under 200$ on your existing cam. Determine how much lift you can safely package, and have 20 degrees duration chopped off and I think you will be happy all around.Lots of people have experience with similar camshafts. None of these people have your gearing and tires.I ran one 10 years ago in mustang, and had one in my RX7 until I stuck a valve and damaged the #1 exhaust lobe. I played around with a few essy grinds, and that is when I figured out the Engle is lobe lift, and when comparing to other 2.3 cams it will act about 20 degrees bigger. I ultimately had my Engle re ground for a touch more lift,and a touch less duration.My application is a 2700 lb weight car, with a 3.97 first, and a 3.73 rear end. I have ZERO use for sub 3000 rpm power, and as long as the engine will run and slowly accelerate the car, I don't care what it does there.Unless you want to try a stock ranger cam, the cheapest (and best) thing for you to do is have your existing roller re ground. Directionally it is very easy to go in the direction that will improve low speed performance. Keep the lift up where it is, shrink duration to the 220 at the valve range, and keep LSA at the 112 those cams typically are. If you are planning on a turbo like the EFR, the intake and exhaust duration can be about the same. If you are going to a t3/t4 with a small exhaust housing, I would run 10 degrees less exhaust duration.If you want good boost below 3000 rpm, you absolutely need a different turbo than you have.It is VERY easy to check in the car. I can say with 100% certainty my Engle measure 20 degrees bigger that that cam card, and 10 degrees larger than a 2277.As has been pointed out though, sub 3000 rpm power is never what anyone builds one of these for. If you can't easily gear to actually spin the combo, you would be much happier with a smaller turbo and ranger cam.