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A sprocket is pulled dead on so its flat surfaces hit other flat surfaces and its good.The CVT would be out from the sprocekt area so increased load and ANY slop would make for an wearing angle and heat build up cause its gonna be tough to near impossible to hold the CVT on a tiny splined shaft as well as they normally fit a tapered one like they are made for.If a bike motor was gonna be used you would need to move it away from the motor some anyway JUST for clearance so it would have a short shaft you could make stout and then connect to the bike motors output with a driveshaft adaptor or something you made to bolt of weld to a sprocket that fits your motor. The driven has a long shaft to so as long as the frame has clearance for it it would be pretty easy.I also like an idea I cam up with before of running a chain back to a shaft that the drive CVT fits on then feeding the belt into your driven on the tranny or whatever. Being the chain could be longer it would not have the heting issues but again the frame would need to be able to accomodate it. All in all with all the fabbin and Rubegoldbergin it might be miles ahead to scam around for a good deal on an Apex or a Cat 660 tubo or.....
I would have to look at some pictures, but it seems that you would have to have a jack shaft regardless, so you could come off the custom clutch basket/cover arrangement with a cog belt, up to the jack shaft and run the jack shaft across above the bike tranny, to where it would hold the primary for the CVT. It would be higher, but back from the original location so that the belt length would work out.You could get rid of the weight of that nasty bike clutch and tranny. Rue-Goldberg all the way.