I want it i need it.....its time

[dsrace]

I have a speedglas auto dark. Obsolete now but has only needed new button batteries 1 time in 15+years. I keep good/clean inner and outer lenses . Very compact and close fitting to the head for excellent tight space use.  Save-phase also makes one that was almost identical to our save-phace masks. Very close fitting.

Post a link up to the one you use. Didnt know save place made them.

My old helmet, it didn't clear that quick once the weld had stopped. This one has an adjustment for just that. The old one , I would have to lift my helmet to see what kind of bead I just put down and to see what I was starting. This new helmet is so clear I do t have to lift my helmet for either reason.

[fabr]

This is the one I have. https://www.ebay.com/itm/204359684872?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1yL74Y3goSV25d-tfX8qBEg90&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=204359684872&targetid=1587268787897&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9026906&poi=&campaignid=19894961968&mkgroupid=148855406073&rlsatarget=pla-1587268787897&abcId=9307911&merchantid=764139580&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzPLom7GnhAMVjjLUAR1iWQY9EAQYHiABEgK8_PD_BwEI've had it for probably 30 years or more now.It is not made anymore. It charges the battery while welding. Speedglass make similar now.

Save phace has me concerned how good they are.  https://www.ebay.com/b/Save-Phace-Welding-Helmets/92090/bn_77117241     I did email them to check on their business status. They quit making the buggy masks a while back but it seems they might be back?

[fabr]

[

 Not sure how that process works exactly. I asked the racers choice guy and he makes molds, then casts off the molds. The mold is the expensive part. I do not remember the other company but their web site states custom tanks. Just as expensive as racers choice. Been considering  making a cardboard templates and having a custom ss tank made .  I'd feel better with a pex lined tank but ss would be safer then aluminum.  The current tank can be mounted as seen in the pics. Looks bad  but it fits at that angle. The round tank can go back in until I can get a custom tank made too. Having one made is my only option. I am tolerating welding to finish this project and barely. Using a new better helmet that does help too! Diff color screen and that made a difference. After what I welded sun my eye was dry and a small pull on it.

Your tank is the mold the way I have  it done. (It also assures a perfect fit.)That is why you would need to send the tank to me before paint and no to powdercoat. All fab work would need to be completed first as well.
[/quote]

[dsrace]

This is the one I have. https://www.ebay.com/itm/204359684872?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1yL74Y3goSV25d-tfX8qBEg90&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=204359684872&targetid=1587268787897&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9026906&poi=&campaignid=19894961968&mkgroupid=148855406073&rlsatarget=pla-1587268787897&abcId=9307911&merchantid=764139580&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzPLom7GnhAMVjjLUAR1iWQY9EAQYHiABEgK8_PD_BwEI've had it for probably 30 years or more now.It is not made anymore. It charges the battery while welding. Speedglass make similar now.

Save phace has me concerned how good they are.  https://www.ebay.com/b/Save-Phace-Welding-Helmets/92090/bn_77117241     I did email them to check on their business status. They quit making the buggy masks a while back but it seems they might be back?

 Wasn't impressed with save place lenses or their customer service. I do like the masks though. I did call yesterday and left a message asking about replacement lenses as their website said they were selling them again. I will have to see if I can fit tear offs over them somehow.

I like that helmet you use. That was ahead of its time and I see why you like it. I really like me new one for sure. Mine is 5 or 6 years old now but new out of the box  .  My helmets model # has been superceded of course. I would really be interested in the new 3.0 version which is probably 3 steps above mine now.




Informative video.
https://youtu.be/b7qE53MszVU?si=KDtRJOx-VgcYznFN

[dsrace]

[

 Not sure how that process works exactly. I asked the racers choice guy and he makes molds, then casts off the molds. The mold is the expensive part. I do not remember the other company but their web site states custom tanks. Just as expensive as racers choice. Been considering  making a cardboard templates and having a custom ss tank made .  I'd feel better with a pex lined tank but ss would be safer then aluminum.  The current tank can be mounted as seen in the pics. Looks bad  but it fits at that angle. The round tank can go back in until I can get a custom tank made too. Having one made is my only option. I am tolerating welding to finish this project and barely. Using a new better helmet that does help too! Diff color screen and that made a difference. After what I welded sun my eye was dry and a small pull on it.

Your tank is the mold the way I have  it done. (It also assures a perfect fit.)That is why you would need to send the tank to me before paint and no to powdercoat. All fab work would need to be completed first as well.

[/quote]

So if this is a real possibility , I will have a tank made. I assume aluminum would be fine since the bladder will be the real tank?? Could have it made out of 14g 3003 aluminum.

[fabr]

[

 Not sure how that process works exactly. I asked the racers choice guy and he makes molds, then casts off the molds. The mold is the expensive part. I do not remember the other company but their web site states custom tanks. Just as expensive as racers choice. Been considering  making a cardboard templates and having a custom ss tank made .  I'd feel better with a pex lined tank but ss would be safer then aluminum.  The current tank can be mounted as seen in the pics. Looks bad  but it fits at that angle. The round tank can go back in until I can get a custom tank made too. Having one made is my only option. I am tolerating welding to finish this project and barely. Using a new better helmet that does help too! Diff color screen and that made a difference. After what I welded sun my eye was dry and a small pull on it.

Your tank is the mold the way I have  it done. (It also assures a perfect fit.)That is why you would need to send the tank to me before paint and no to powdercoat. All fab work would need to be completed first as well.

So if this is a real possibility , I will have a tank made. I assume aluminum would be fine since the bladder will be the real tank?? Could have it made out of 14g 3003 aluminum.
[/quote]


There are a couple considerations. First and foremost the welded seams need to be "professionally" done with TIG. What I mean by that is the welder must be capable of having smooth seams on the inside,no dingle berry shit.I do not recommend a 1 piece tank like mine because of that possibility. I won't do a 1 piece again.  It is best to make the tank with a removeable lid so it can be welded inside and out.

If using fill plate with pickup and return fittings integrated,do not do a cutout for it at this time. You will do that after rotomolding. If using a separate fuel level sender  do a cut out for it and make a plate for plugging the hole after the PEX powder is added.

 3003 is perfect material . I use .090 3003 h13 You will to make a pair of hold down straps that can be bolted down to the roto table that won't allow the tank to slip.

The rotomold process is pretty simple. You will need to calculate the surface area of the tank and they will calculate the volume of PEX granules to give the desired approximate thickness . They fill the tank,cap the fill port,bolt it to the roto table. Then it is off to the oven where the roto table turns 360 degrees and rotates in another axis 360 degrees. The PEX granules melt and crosslink into a consistent thickness in the tank covering all areas. The heat is removed ,tank continues rotating until the pex has hardened into a very tough bladder fitting your tank perfectly.

 Crosslinked polyethylene (PEX) is much tougher than regular polyethylene and cannot be repaired by heat welding. Once melted and brought up to temperature the cross linking occurs and it will not melt again and is much more chemical resistant the regular polyethylene.

[fabr]

If you want I'll make sure he will still do it. I highly recommend it.Safety first.

[dsrace]

If you want I'll make sure he will still do it. I highly recommend it.Safety first.

I do want to but I don't know how soon it will happen. I need to get farther along before I know for sure. I was looking at it and thinking about diff locations based on your description.  I am not opposed to having a ss tank made either , just in case it cannot be done. Atleast that would be resistant to e85 and could could go thicker walls with an inside and out weld. The 2nd location would be behind the drivers seat, standing upright where my old electronics box went. Probably would only hold 12 gals rough guesstimate but would get it out of the back and clean up that whole back end. If it was made in a box pan break they could bend the sides off the bottom so there were only upright sides welded and the top. Way easier to make mounts there too. I would pre fer the pex or cross link lined but a 14g or 12g ss wall tank would be stronger then the speedway tank that split. !!  That tank wall was sooooo thin !

I only say wait to ask because I am not sure when I can get a local fab shop to build what I design. Dont want anyone upset if this takes 2 months to 8 months.

[fabr]

Just let me know if you decide to do it. I asked about a year ago if he would still do it and at that time he would. The guy is head of production and does it "out the back door". BTW,ethanol is not corrosive to aluminum like methanol. Proper care and storage of ethanol is the key to never having issues with ethanol.

[dsrace]

Just let me know if you decide to do it. I asked about a year ago if he would still do it and at that time he would. The guy is head of production and does it "out the back door". BTW,ethanol is not corrosive to aluminum like methanol. Proper care and storage of ethanol is the key to never having issues with ethanol.

I want to, just not sure when. I'll take some measurements this weekend as there is one other spot one could fit. Maybe 10 gal tank in that spot. Was hoping for a larger tank but in that spot it would clean up a whole lot of real-estate over the trans and that would Llow me to move the radiator farther back and down plus a 2hp starter. The tank mounted behind the drivers seat from the top frame to the bottom would get the weight down lower as I had envisioned. 

[fabr]

A low center of gravity rules.  Now ,lower the cars stance 4-6". 

[fabr]

Just sayin'        https://www.glamisdunes.com/invision/index.php?/forums/topic/8674-funco-sandrail-goes-up-in-flames/#comments

[dsrace]

Haven't been on that site in so long they deleted my acct. Cannot view it w/o logging in either. In the process of trying acct recovery now.

[dsrace]

I cannot get the folks at Glamis to send me the email so I can log in. No idea who is asleep at the wheel over there.

Got quite a bit done on the rail last weekend and was in the process of making mock up rear a arms when I realized I had forgot to account for greater plates  so I cut the tack welds and added a few spacer pieces. I did not take any pics other then The removable cross bar mounts for the upper a arm mount. 

I decided I need to clean all the cvs and actually bolt the axles in place. I just need the mock up then ill make a fixture and at that point I can make what ever design I want. I was planning on using the adjustable heims on the bottoms. I used them on the back sides on the last build. I keep bouncing back and fourth about if they will be strong enough. If I use both on the bottom it will make alignments a breeze. 3/4" chromolly solid shaft left and rt hand thread and then a left and rt hand heim joint.......outside a female heim of course.  On the old design had one of those on the bottom rear and front rear was a single him. That still offset the weak point with the tube over lapping the center of the tie rod area so to speak. I didn't take pics as I had set my phone down in the utv while I was splitting fire wood and then gave up trying to find it until late 

[dsrace]

The rear a arms, rear heim attachment points. My earlier post is referring to putting both on the bottom a arm rather then rear of upper and lower. as I am going to a single pivot on top. I can go double pivot on the upper and back to this design ....just thought a single upper would be cleaner.