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Automotive Powered Off Road (AKA: Buggys, Jeeps, Trucks, Etc,Etc. ) => Motor and Drivetrain => Topic started by: Carlriddle on July 27, 2010, 01:08:00 PM
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This is from info I got from MBN and it appears to be a good find.
I went with a hub/bearing assembly for a circa 2000 Dodge Intrepid which mates to the EMPI 930 microstubs. I actually received the stubs in the mail today and they fit great (although they didn't come with the nut). The hub/bearing assy ran 44.00 new, which is stellar and I got the microstubs from dealparts were 126.00 a peice.
We just checked our fit yesterday. It is a good press fit, no slop. The length is right on too. So a 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern is easily done with a Dodge Intrepid (and family) front wheel hub bearing
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Good find!
Do you have the brand and part number of the bearing? It would be great to post the 3 bolt flange bolt circle mounting diameter etc.
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http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Wheel-Hub-Assembly-NTP_3280594-P_184_R%7CGRPWHELAMS_389499211___ (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Wheel-Hub-Assembly-NTP_3280594-P_184_R%7CGRPWHELAMS_389499211___)
NT513089 93-04 Dodge 300m, concorde, lhs, intrepid, eagle vision.
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I see there is a review left there too. I am using a Timken version of the same part.
1.66" from hub face to mount face. Mount is 3 on 116mm. 12x1.5 threads. 3.39" mount pilot hole. Pilot hole will require a chamfer to clear radius on bearing.
They can also be used with F150 CVs and 930 axles for 44 degrees of angle. $250 for 2 Timken bearings and 2 CV kits with boots, clamps, etc. The F-150 Splines bottom in the hub before the cup touches the bearing. The splines do fully engage. I am making up spacers so the side load is not on the splines. Hub face to back of CV would be 6" with spacer installed.
Engineer, you could probably compare that to an actual F150 hub.
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What stub axle did you use, Ford one? That what seemed easy, buy dodge wheel bearing hub(cheap), buy 930 stub axle and they mate up. I'll look at the F150 stuff again, my memory's getting a little foggy on it.
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I used the Timken version of the same one you linked to with a Ford CV. The stub is part of the CV, not a separate part that bolts on.
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The Ford one would be a no brainer, but at 2.5 X $$$ its not. What are you doing for inner, because I understand the Ford inners dont move as much.
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2.5X the money? For what you paid just for the microstubs, what I listed is equivilent to the hubs, stubs and CVs.
You said you paid $126 each for the micro stubs, so that is $252. Another $88 for the hubs and you still have to buy CVs, boots and clamps.
You can use a 930 inner and be limited to the angle of that, but also get plunge. You can use a Rockford inner that like the F150 outer has no plunge, but 44 degrees of angle. You can cut the stub off the CV and weld a flange to it to bolt to a carrier like Engineer did.
I am making up some roller plunging axles that will fit the 28 spline (930, F150) CVs. The prototypes are not even done yet let alone tested so they are gonna be a while.
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I meant using the Ford F150 wheel hubs at 2.5 $$$ the money of the dodge. More research to do now............
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I meant using the Ford F150 wheel hubs at 2.5 $$$ the money of the dodge. More research to do now............
Where you save the money is using the EMPI F-150 outer CV. It will go right in the F-150 (expensive) or dodge (cheap 5 on 4.5") wheel bearing and it is the equivalent of the stub axle and the CV for around $50. Of course it is non-plunging so you have to make allowance for it on the inside, and do you really want different CV's on the inside and outside etc, etc.
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I meant using the Ford F150 wheel hubs at 2.5 $$$ the money of the dodge. More research to do now............
But you don't have to use the Ford hubs, just the Ford CVs.
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Bunch of hybrid lovers!
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Bunch of hybrid lovers!
Find me a buggy thats not hybrid. rofl
But you don't have to use the Ford hubs, just the Ford CVs.
I understand that, but when you said you were having to make some spacers I thought why not just just the Ford hubs. The outcome, to be continued....
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Find me a buggy thats not hybrid. rofl
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;) ;) ;) ;)
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Find me a buggy thats not hybrid. rofl
I understand that, but when you said you were having to make some spacers I thought why not just just the Ford hubs. The outcome, to be continued....
Now it all makes sense. I thought you were saying the price I listed was 2.5X using the microstubs.
The spacers are not a big deal. I am thinking of getting them laser cut then will face off to final thickness. I can cut splines too so I could extend the splines on the F150 CVs to not require the spacer on the inside. It would then require one on the outside since the stub is longer than the hub. The benefit would be a narrower package allowing longer axles and therefore more travel ;D
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Find me a buggy thats not hybrid.
The few, the proud, the Joyner's.
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.supersportz.com%2Fimages%2F800sandviper_03.jpg&hash=953062a43c08d41f0ab278df4fd64f57917b991b)
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i thought it was bad rule of thumb to mount the radiator right behind your head??? but i see alot of buggies put it there.....
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I don't like it there either. BUT ,look where mines at. eyes eyes
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(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Faftershockmotorsports.com%2Fdetail%2Fradiator%2FIMG_0068.jpg&hash=e1785bfe52af45bae7c713f44a3ced4afbe7b9e2)
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man it woulda been easy to mount mine behind my head, just scared of gettign scalding water on my neck...
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Here is a picture of the hub and CV together
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is that the ford cv? that cup is deep...
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Heck yeah its deep. But its shorter cv to wheel than anything I got. And it can move more than some circus freak.
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Well shit,vood's going to be redesigning again. ;D ;D
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no way!! that cups is super deep.. my s-10 cups are half that and they can run 45 degrees max.. now the tripod end, uhh not sure about..lol cups are too deep on those ford cv's..... that limits your travel on a shorter arm setup....
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It really comes down to the power you have to put through it. That CV is big, but if you need the strength... It is overkill for a 600cc engine mini, IMO. For my one buggy, I am using another 5 on 4.5 hub that is a little thinner itself and accepts a smaller fixed joint. The old cars used a VW Rabbit wheel bearing and a custom hub to accept an Audi 5000 CV. The new setup is over 1" shorter than that setup from wheel hub to back of CV. I made some roller plunging axles for far less than what I have seen others pay for them.