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That was my misconception as well.I thought the machine followed the dxf and the resulting kerf would be split evenly on both sides.NOPE.The operator tells the program which side to compensate on so the target dimension is hit.
Your refering to Waterjet cutting....... The local waterjet guy here says he can cut 7" thick, and compensate for the kerf. Make sure to tell them you are willing to pay for the good finish. With waterjet, you can get anywhere from the torch look, to smooth as a baby's butt depending how slow they go. I have some 2" thick waterjet that is very smooth. For the thickness of those parts, I think its a toss up. You will be pleased either way.
On the thick stuff the waterjet has to cut real slow to get the smooth finish. The thinner materials always come out nice. I have access to both and really prefer the WJ.WJ is a little more expensive to operate. (it's slower than laser)Sometimes I do use the laser, if I want the hard edge that it leaves. The waterjet can also do stainless and aluminum. A lot of shops stay away from these materials with the laser.The shinny surfaces screw with the laser lens so I'm told. We never cut alum. or stainless with laser. Our lasers will only cut to 3/8 thickness. anything over 3/8 we plasma cut.Waterjet will do 7" I always cut the important holes (suspension mounts) slightly undersize and chase them with a reamer or drill. Regardless of laser or WJ parts. The hard skin left from the laser is hard on tooling. So here the waterjet is better IMO. I laser all tapped holes 1/32 under the tap drill dia. (You need to drill out the hard material before tapping the hole.) For WJ I go 1/64 under the tap drill. Tabs and notches need to have the proper clearances added before you send a dxf. to laser or waterjet. The waterjet or laser guy has no idea how your stuff tabs together.If you don't add the clearances it will not fit together. (without grinding)I add .01 to all notch widths. HRPO stock can vary in thickness if your notches are .188 and the stock comes in .190 you are going to have fun fitting everything together. Same goes for the length of the notches vs. the tabs. add clearance here I wold go .02waterjet kerf can be .03 so it's leaving a .015R in the corners. Laser kerf can be even more. The laser and waterjet are set to compensate for the kerf. The dxf shape is what you get, so don't worry about loosing material because of the kerf. the WJ nozzle wears as you use it (the kerf starts to get wider.) Most places will compensate for this also. they estimate the wear based on the machines use and compensate accordingly.