Spongy Breaks!!

[Wildcatfan]

Have to pump several times for any petal. Petal dosent wanna come all the way back up either, making it very difficult to get any breaks. It will slow you down, but thats about it. I have installed a new 5/8 master cylinder and new Nissan caliber on the drivers side. And new break line on the drivers side. I have bleed the crap out of it!  It has a line lock and dual cutting breaks also. This is driving me nuts, could someone please help me out?

[fabr]

Is your master cylinder outlet higher or lower than your caliper inlet?

[deano]

fab; is the master big enough for that set up 

[BDKW1]

5/8's for a single piston caliper should be good. run through the basics first, have somebody stomp on the brakes and watch to see if the calipers move around a lot. If they do your mounts are not strait. Also check for high points in the line, these can trap bubbles that may be impossible to get out without power bleeding.

[fabr]

Yes,I would think fine,deano. +1 ,again,to bdkw ,especially about the mount flex .

[dsrace]

if you rip both cutting brake handles does that lock the rear end up or work better than the foot pedal? after you changed the caliper and re bled the system did you bleed the cutting brakes too? if so are they mounted flat and level or do they have a slight rise in the mount?

[Carlriddle]

Jack rear up as so air can burp to caliper easier.  Any flexiable rubber lines expanding?

[Wildcatfan]

I can only see the pads moving when being pumped.  No air or foam whatsoever when bleeding,  straight fluid. The cutting breaks are slanted upward higher than the caliber or master cylinder. Unless I pump the foot petal several times I dont have cutting breaks. I have to get a petal going before using the cutting breaks. Keep in mind this buggy had great breaks before. But, after changing the caliber its went to heck. It dosent have a bleeder on the cutting breaks. But I have tried breaking the line and bleeding with no success. 

Maybe I do need to jack or suspend the rear in up in the air? I have been driving some like this hoping it would bleed itself, but dosent look like its going to.

[Wildcatfan]

Jack rear up as so air can burp to caliper easier.  Any flexiable rubber lines expanding?

I dont think so, but I will double check in the morning.

Thanks EVERYONE for the quick responses!

[Wildcatfan]

5/8's for a single piston caliper should be good. run through the basics first, have somebody stomp on the brakes and watch to see if the calipers move around a lot. If they do your mounts are not strait. Also check for high points in the line, these can trap bubbles that may be impossible to get out without power bleeding.

Yes, I may have to have it power bled! Im gonna try raising the rear up first. Back up on a hill or something?

[BDKW1]

I think the big loop right out of the MC is your biggest problem. You would have to hang the buggy vertical to get the air out of that. A hard 90 out of the MC would have helped a lot.

[dsrace]

ya the hoops could be the problem. when i had my v6 rail with cutting brakes i had a hard time bleeding it initially. i had the cutting brakes body mounted very close to level but still wound up with bubbles trapped in them.  when i bled them i jacked the rail up so they were level and pumped the foot brakes until hard then grabbed both cutting brake handles and pulled them as tight as i could. that would push the foot pedal back at me when i did this. i had a friend crack the bleeder while i held the cutting brakes tight. not sure if you've tried this or even if this is your issue but if you try it pump the foot pedal hard then grab the cutting brakes and pull all the way and crack the bleeders a few times and see if that helps. now it wouldn't push the foot pedal all the way back i could just feel it on my foot when it happened. the master cyl's in the cutting brakes do wear out as well so also may be an issue.

[Wildcatfan]

I think the big loop right out of the MC is your biggest problem. You would have to hang the buggy vertical to get the air out of that. A hard 90 out of the MC would have helped a lot.

Would a power bleed help? I asked my neighbor he has one.

[Wildcatfan]

ya the hoops could be the problem. when i had my v6 rail with cutting brakes i had a hard time bleeding it initially. i had the cutting brakes body mounted very close to level but still wound up with bubbles trapped in them.  when i bled them i jacked the rail up so they were level and pumped the foot brakes until hard then grabbed both cutting brake handles and pulled them as tight as i could. that would push the foot pedal back at me when i did this. i had a friend crack the bleeder while i held the cutting brakes tight. not sure if you've tried this or even if this is your issue but if you try it pump the foot pedal hard then grab the cutting brakes and pull all the way and crack the bleeders a few times and see if that helps. now it wouldn't push the foot pedal all the way back i could just feel it on my foot when it happened. the master cyl's in the cutting brakes do wear out as well so also may be an issue.

Actually I did already try this as well. I would pump till full petal then pull both and even one cutting break at a time and bled each caliber at a time. I could feel the break petal coming back up as i pulled the cutting break. Trust me I have feel asleep thinking about this....lol

All my problems started when a caliber started sticking. If I used the line lock it would stay stuck until cracking a bleeder.  Then a drunk guy decided to help and just pulled a wrench without jaring it and broke my bleeder off in my caliber.  Then I broke a square easy out off in that bleeder...lmao

[fabr]

Just buy a cheap power bleeder. You will use it again sometime for sure and is it really worth the aggravation not to get one
http://motiveproducts.3dcartstores.com/