question of fox damping.

[Adnoh]

I'm looking to get a set of 14" or 16" fox 2.0 remote coil overs. Is there any information out there on compression and rebound rates when ordering. or is there a work sheet of any kind or is it trial and error. The shock are gona be put on the rear of my pilot pretty light weight around 750 with driver.

[fabr]

I just printed out the fox shim charts for bump/droop dampening percentages last night. A bit hard to find but it's on Fox's site. As to what percentage to start from it's a crap shoot IMO.

[Adnoh]

I'll look agian. I have a dyno chart of the shock I'm using now so I can use it as a guide. Thanks

[fabr]

Valving chart for 2.0's    http://www.foxracingshox.com/fox_tech_center/owners_manuals/20_SERIES_VALVING_SPECS.pdf

[Adnoh]

Thank you. It does help.

[Engineer]

So what is the realistic time for making a valving change.

Besides the basic tools do you need a vice?

You would need to be able to recharge the nitrogen?  Does anyone do that at LS?

And how big of a difference is #5 gonna make?

[dsrace]

we do all take n2 with us to the dunes and that's the easy part but as far as re-valving we get close at home then when we get back we make the changes but it could be done at the dunes at least on 2.0 air or 2.5 air and that does include 2.0- 2.5 coil assist air also. those I can speak for personally!

[dsrace]

Valving chart for 2.0's    http://www.foxracingshox.com/fox_tech_center/owners_manuals/20_SERIES_VALVING_SPECS.pdf

oh ya this is good info! I have shim staks left over from re-valving I can get creative with now!!   

[fabr]

Valving changes will require shock removal,a vise is invaluable,shock disassembly and reassembly and replacing on vehicle. Realistically you'll see 20-30 minutes minimum per shock IMO. Yes nitrogen will have to be recharged. I know of no one that does shock work at LS.  #5?

[Engineer]

Valving changes will require shock removal,a vise is invaluable,shock disassembly and reassembly and replacing on vehicle. Realistically you'll see 20-30 minutes minimum per shock IMO. Yes nitrogen will have to be recharged. I know of no one that does shock work at LS.  #5?

The chart goes in #5 increments. #30, #35, #40  If you were bottoming hard would you change by #20?  I suppose that there would be no way to quantify it with different weights ratios etc.

Can you post up where yours are at Fabr?  I never saw when I got my shocks if they told what the factory setting was.

It is probably also not linear.  Like on my rear the shock will be connected directly to the wheel carrier.  If someone else had their shock mounted at 75% of their trailing arm length.  Would that ratio get you close?

[Enemy]

The chart goes in #5 increments. #30, #35, #40  If you were bottoming hard would you change by #20?  I suppose that there would be no way to quantify it with different weights ratios etc.

Can you post up where yours are at Fabr? I never saw when I got my shocks if they told what the factory setting was.

It is probably also not linear.  Like on my rear the shock will be connected directly to the wheel carrier.  If someone else had their shock mounted at 75% of their trailing arm length.  Would that ratio get you close?

Factory valving should be engraved on the lower shaft mount. On a 2.0, its usually hidden under the o-ring (like "50/70" for example). On a 2.5 its in the same location, although sometimes tricky to read because of the overlap of the shaft. (not much room there for the engraving)

[odypilots]

And how big of a difference is #5 gonna make?

I started with 30-90, then changed my rebound on my Fox Airs 2.0 from 90 to 65, and didn't feel it, but that was with a month between the before and after rides. I've always said I don't have that sensitive of "seat of the pants", though. If you were at the dunes, then did the change there, I still doubt you'd feel a change of 5. I would do changes of 20, myself.

Ideally, I'd pull into the pits and have a crew bolt on a different set of shocks already set up with the new valving without getting out of the buggy. Then I figure I'd have the best chance to feel the difference.

The other thing about revalving at the dunes would be keeping sand out of the process. Draining and refilling the oil, as well as all the oily parts, presents a lot of oportunity to pick up contaminants.

[Engineer]

I started with 30-90, then changed my rebound on my Fox Airs 2.0 from 90 to 65, and didn't feel it, but that was with a month between the before and after rides. I've always said I don't have that sensitive of "seat of the pants", though. If you were at the dunes, then did the change there, I still doubt you'd feel a change of 5. I would do changes of 20, myself.

Ideally, I'd pull into the pits and have a crew bolt on a different set of shocks already set up with the new valving without getting out of the buggy. Then I figure I'd have the best chance to feel the difference.

The other thing about revalving at the dunes would be keeping sand out of the process. Draining and refilling the oil, as well as all the oily parts, presents a lot of oportunity to pick up contaminants.

Yah that is the problem.  Going home and making the change then coming back a week to two weeks later is going to be hard to compare.

I guess I need some dirt tires to do some terrace jumping to get close.

[fabr]

I started with 30-90, then changed my rebound on my Fox Airs 2.0 from 90 to 65, and didn't feel it, but that was with a month between the before and after rides. I've always said I don't have that sensitive of "seat of the pants", though. If you were at the dunes, then did the change there, I still doubt you'd feel a change of 5. I would do changes of 20, myself.

Ideally, I'd pull into the pits and have a crew bolt on a different set of shocks already set up with the new valving without getting out of the buggy. Then I figure I'd have the best chance to feel the difference.

The other thing about revalving at the dunes would be keeping sand out of the process. Draining and refilling the oil, as well as all the oily parts, presents a lot of oportunity to pick up contaminants.

Ya,I agree. I'd probably go in 10# diffs myself. my shocks are factory 50/50 I think. They are too soft on bump and seem to be about rught on rebound. But there are many factors that will make big differences in how much a #10 change will make . Just one is motion ratio. Every car will be different. On one such as mine the rear shocks are at around a 80 degree angle to the arms but on the front they cary frommaybe 60 degreeto 90 degree. Same # change in back will be a totally different animal on the front due th the progressive motion ratio up front. Soooo.......it's truly trial and error. If I had to do valving changes at the dunes I'd NOT do it in the open. In the trailer with the AC on only.No blowing sand needs to get inside the shock.

[fabr]

The chart goes in #5 increments. #30, #35, #40  If you were bottoming hard would you change by #20?  I suppose that there would be no way to quantify it with different weights ratios etc.

Can you post up where yours are at Fabr?  I never saw when I got my shocks if they told what the factory setting was.

It is probably also not linear.  Like on my rear the shock will be connected directly to the wheel carrier.  If someone else had their shock mounted at 75% of their trailing arm length.  Would that ratio get you close?

I haven't really done a thing since the LS trip. Been wayyyyyy too busy at work. What we need to do is for several of us plan a true test and chassis tune weekend . All go out and make some whoops runs and observe/vid others cars. Go back to cam ,review vids and then someone/s remove/reinstall shocke while someone/s are doing valving changes. Take some spare components just in case. we could all chip in on a couple of sets of shim kitsw maybe?   How close are you to getting yours done? Have you been been doing a stealth build? LOL!!!!!