DTSFab.com (Desert, Trail and Sand)
UTV's Off Road ( RZR, YXZ, Mini Buggy, Carts,etc.) => UTV Controls and Electrical => Topic started by: Jerry on December 05, 2008, 07:01:12 PM
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I posted a wire diagram for a o4 polaris, which i hope to be able to start tomorrow with your help. I am not good at reading the diagram have not read these things in years. I would have posted the diagram here but i am working off an old computer (wife took mine).
So, question is am i right (i do not want to damage anything). THe 2 c wires,d,e,f all need to be connected together for it to run and start. The a,b wires engage the starter, so once the motor is running i disconnect/seperate those two. I am right
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Jerry, what dont you have in the electrical system, are you only missing the key switch? you have the handle bar switch or no?
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a connection between A and B should crank the starter over... Momentary switch only or push button, just like anything you start connection just to make the starter turn until it fires...
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F is a ground dont put any power to that one...
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I have the handle bar switch That has headlights and engine off run off switch. I do not have the key assembly
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I think c "Both" and d connect to run, and e and f connect when In off position.. treat c as one wire, as it only has one plug on the switch side of the connection, looks like it was just a easy place to combine 2 into 1 in the plug...
First thing i would do, hook up the battery, check which leads have power in them im guessing a will not, until c makes contact w d... and that c has power all the time when the battery is connected...As long as the fuses have not been removed from the harness you shouldn't be able to do to much damage, it should blow the fuse if hooked wrong...
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I have the handle bar switch That has headlights and engine off run off switch. I do not have the key assembly
so the only thing you are missing is the key? every other switch etc is there you believe?
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Ill be home all day tomorrow, if you need help and cant get anyone feel free to call me when your in the shop working on it, I can pull up the wire diagram and maybe help you figure it out... Ill pm ya my phone number...
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I do believe every thing else is there. Thanks Bug
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This is to offically THANK Bugpac for his help. You were a huge help. To here the engine start for the frist time was amazing. I can't thank you enough.
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This is to offically THANK Bugpac for his help. You were a huge help. To here the engine start for the frist time was amazing. I can't thank you enough.
No problem, anytime i can help anyone on the forum, I am glad to do so, Im just glad you got it running, One less hurdle to overcome...Before long you'll be out tearing it up... ;D
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Yes it starts but does not run long before it dieds. I am having troble getting fuel prssure to 40psi. When i engage the fuel pump (fp) at start up it gets to about 22psi and does not ever get to 40psi. it runs for less then a minute or so then pressure seam to drop and the engine dieds. I have had the pressure up to 40 psi a couple of times. How or why it got there i do not know, i did nothing diferrent to get it up there. I ran stayed running fora minute or so at 40psi then a pressure drop and it died. I am thinking my problem is electrical maybe not a enough amps/volts going to the pump. A buddy said i should have a relay on the fp line. he explained a relay to me like this the wires from the harness for the fp go to one side of the relay, a power line from the battery goes to relay. Then the harness wires complete there circut the power from the battery with a fuse in it gives more power to the fp.
Any thoughts??
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how does the aftermarket pump connect to the wire harness? You could unhook it from the harness and run it directly to the battery to see what the pressure does..
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The pump is connected by 2 wires from the harness (easy to diconnect). I will get a inline fuse tomorrow and try connecting the pump direct to the battery. If i run just the pump while it is connected to the fuel rail and no power going to the engine that should power the pump up to its set 40psi? I will trt this tomorrow afterwork
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This is to offically THANK Bugpac for his help. You were a huge help.
Very cool. 8) Free bump for BUG.
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I connected the pump direct to the battery, bingo the pump went straight to 40psiand stayed there. So the problem was lack of power to the pump. to cure the problem i guess i need a relay.
I nothing about relays, can so one enlighten me on when and how to use one and how to wire it in??
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I think i going to have to do the same thing with the lights i want to run, possible the radiator fan.
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A relay is nothing more than a switch, as most dash switches can not handle the amperage, so basicly you use low amp swith and wire to turn the relay on, witch is pretty much a switch that turns on the high amp circuit, your starter solenoid is a relay.. remember how we talked about how it worked?
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Ill find you the part numbers for the relays, you pick a couple up and ill explain how to wire them in... you also need a power distribution box with some fuses in it... Ill find that for ya to... ;D
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Thanks Bug
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Relay (http://cgi.ebay.com/5-PACK-Tyco-Bosch-Relays-SPDT-12-Volt-with-Socket_W0QQitemZ190271513457QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCar_Electronics_Installation?hash=item190271513457&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A543|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A0|293%3A1|294%3A50)
Power block (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RV-Marine-DC-Blade-Buss-Fuse-Block-12v-9-Circuit_W0QQitemZ140272922646QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_RV_Trailer_Camper_Parts_Accessories?hash=item140272922646&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A543|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318)
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I used to fear the relay, it is now my friend, much more flexible than just a toggle alone. In a nut shell, whatever gos in power wise goes out - just a remote switch to togglle the rely drawing very low amps so all the switches that run the various relays can run on one fuse. All the relays would have their own fuse for the load.
There are two kinds of relays, a five pin and a four pin - stick with the four pin for the most part - they all follow the same method of wires - ie - post in, switch in, etc. If it does not have a diagram, the posts are numbered and you can look the numbers up on the web pretty easy. Might just look like a black box with 4 terminal connectors.
Easy to find them near fog lights at the auto parts store, in your case, get one rated for 40 amps. Wire the relay to the fuse block / in line fuse, and other side to pump, switch to the relay and other side to ground and - viola. Don't fear the relay. It is our friend.
(BTY - I had posted a basic wiring diagram on this site - it shows relays, switches, etc - it makes more sense than my fat finger explanation - look under wiring diagrams.)
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Thank you Yummi, that was very helpful.
Bugpak got that stuffed ordered.
I picked up a relay today and installed it. The motor fired right up and idled fine no stalling. I tried to gas it alittle and it kept dying. The pressure never dropped stayed right at 40. So i moved to running the hard line for the brakes.
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You are welcome, glad it was helpful.
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GREAT NEWS IN NOW RUNS ABOVE IDIOL. The problem was in the electronic throttle control (etc circut).
Bugpac you probably do not remember but the brw and blk wires need to be seperated to make it run it will idiol with them connected or disconnected.
Still working on the brakes.
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GREAT NEWS IN NOW RUNS ABOVE IDIOL. The problem was in the electronic throttle control (etc circut).
Bugpac you probably do not remember but the brw and blk wires need to be seperated to make it run it will idiol with them connected or disconnected.
Still working on the brakes.
Sweet glad to here that..