DTSFab.com (Desert, Trail and Sand)
UTV's Off Road ( RZR, YXZ, Mini Buggy, Carts,etc.) => UTV Controls and Electrical => Topic started by: komelika on August 22, 2013, 01:47:38 PM
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I went with a GSXR-1000 for my power and unfortunately it doesn't have a hydraulic clutch so I will be using cable. I'm brainstorming ideas to make it work. It will be peddle operated. Is there a one stop shop kind of place to buy everything I need to make a custom clutch cable?
I also thought of going with 1/8 wire rope and using 1/4 brake line to route the cable to the peddle, which I think will work, but I'm not sure how to fit the ends and seal it from dirt and debris.
Any ideas from the bad ass buggy builders is appreciated! Thanks!
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I went with a GSXR-1000 for my power and unfortunately it doesn't have a hydraulic clutch so I will be using cable. I'm brainstorming ideas to make it work. It will be peddle operated. Is there a one stop shop kind of place to buy everything I need to make a custom clutch cable?
I also thought of going with 1/8 wire rope and using 1/4 brake line to route the cable to the peddle, which I think will work, but I'm not sure how to fit the ends and seal it from dirt and debris.
Any ideas from the bad ass buggy builders is appreciated! Thanks!
Don't want to rain on your day but, running cable thru steel line is not a good idea. It will galled and bind on you. Best to build all solid linkage with rod ends and such. I have used 3/16 rod ends to build some pretty elaborate clutch and throttle lines in the day. I just don't think you will do any good with cable and tube. Cable running over pulleys will be ok if you can finger it out.
You got and aircraft surplus store anywhere around you? That would be a good source. Or a cable fabrication company. Steel flex Teflon lined with sealed ends.
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You just need a morse type cable. Lots of places make then custom length,problem solved.
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Morse would be fine, but it needs to be a cable end to work with the stock clutch. I could probably figure out how to mate a cable to the end of a push/pull rod, but I don't want an extra point of possible failure. As far as the cable in steel issue, McMaster sells vinyl coated stainless cable, which should eliminate the galling issue.
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Just forget the idea of vinyl coated cable. Will not work. Guarantee it. Fast is quite correct. I don't understand what you mean about an extra point of failure.
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To couple a cable, probably right outside the chain guard/clutch mechanism, to a Morse Push/Pull rod just seems like an extra point that could potentially fail vs. having one length of cable or one pull rod. Maybe not, depending on how you couple it. I don't know if they sell a fitting for that purpose or if I'd have to make something. I could probably just drill a hole through a long nut, loop the cable through it, and crimp on a connection sleeve. Is that kind of what you were thinking?
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Do you have a pic of the clutch connection? I'm not familiar with it.
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Forget the cable, go hydrolic. http://www.sandparts.com/servlet/the-17501/CNC-Pull-Style-dsh-Universal-dsh-Blue-%23300-dsh-BU/Detail
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Forget the cable, go hydrolic. http://www.sandparts.com/servlet/the-17501/CNC-Pull-Style-dsh-Universal-dsh-Blue-%23300-dsh-BU/Detail (http://www.sandparts.com/servlet/the-17501/CNC-Pull-Style-dsh-Universal-dsh-Blue-%23300-dsh-BU/Detail)
X2, I used a push style cnc slave cylinder and a custom bracket. Make sure you dont overtravel the clutch. Just enough to disengauge. Way less headache. Then a morse cable for the shifter.
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Punkur do you have a pic of your setup? I planned on going with the slave cylinder from the beginning, but I thought it might be overkill with this clutch. It's less than 1/4 inch pull to full clutch.
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Sounds like punkur and carl has your fix!
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I could not find any great picks but you get the idea with this one. I used a bolt behind the clutch pedal as a stop to prevent over travel
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And here is how I attached the shifter to the motor
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Thanks man. I can't do it the same way, but it does give me an idea.
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zx12 clutch mounts on top of basket. I made a bracket that bolts to side of motor. Need to allow some space to not overheat those cylinders. Mine did at dunes, slightly pulls clutch in and burned up clutch. And I use 3/8 tube for the shifter linkage, I like the solid feel. On a 2 seater w/shifter in middle of seats its a real close to straight run back. I can shoot some pics if you would like?
CRAP gotta order clutch if I'm gonna make LS in 6 weeks......................... drowning
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zx12 clutch mounts on top of basket. I made a bracket that bolts to side of motor. Need to allow some space to not overheat those cylinders. Mine did at dunes, slightly pulls clutch in and burned up clutch. And I use 3/8 tube for the shifter linkage, I like the solid feel. On a 2 seater w/shifter in middle of seats its a real close to straight run back. I can shoot some pics if you would like?
CRAP gotta order clutch if I'm gonna make LS in 6 weeks......................... drowning
Yeah man, shoot some pics! Thanks. I'm developing an idea. I can't find my stock clutch cable sheath so I'll have to come up withan alternative. I think it may have got thrown away in the mix. I'm thinking I can fab the left side engine mount to house the slave cylinder in a good position to line up with the cable and mount a sheath to keep everything somewhat rigid.
Yeah, I was using a 3/8 tube for the shifter and it felt a little too flexible like it may bend. I need to throw together some shifter stops. Well as it turns out I accidentally broke it yesterday right at the heim joint in the garage. Better than a fail in the desert though. I think I'm going to go with 3/8 rod instead of tubing.
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Just ordered a CNC slave cylinder. Local shop wanted $92 for an EMPI. thumb down
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for my shifter I used 3/8" solid rod and female heims. Also a z-bar since I didnt have line of sight from shifter to shifter.. for my clutch I went with hand clutch on the shifter, but originally had a pedal clutch. I ran the stock clutch cable along the side of the frame and solid mounted the cable at a point. I then had a rod with heim coming off the clutch pedal and mounted it solidly right in front of the cable mount. I made an adapter to hook to the rod and accept the lug on the clutch cable. it worked great. not a point of failure as the factory setup has a handle that accepts the clutch cable lug.
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Any idea how long a factory clutch cable is? I'm thinking 3-4 ft. I'm thinking I'll just order a new one and route it to the A pillar crossbar behind the seat. There is plenty of room there and it keeps the slave cylinder far enough away from heat.
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Make sure your clutch cable has a nice big flowing loop/arch to where ever you mount it. if its pulled tight or goes around a tube tight, it will bind or be very hard to pull.
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Try #2 on this. Pics a little dark, hope you can make it out.
Threw one of shifter rod just for fun of it. ;D
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Looks good. My clutch cable goes through the sprocket cover and operates the linkage inside. I've been looking over the buggy and I think I will run the stock cable to the cockpit and mount the slave cylinder beside my seat. There is a ton of room there to mount it and it is out of the way. It also allows for a looping cable placement with no tight spots like mentioned.
I went to metal supermarket and bought 3/8" rod for my shifter. She accidentally rang me up for 6 ft., which was $18! I said no, I only needed 3 ft. and it was $15! I took the 6 footer. That place ain't cheap!
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I appreciate everyone taking the time to post pics!
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I will run the stock cable to the cockpit and mount the slave cylinder beside my seat. There is a ton of room there to mount it and it is out of the way. It also allows for a looping cable placement with no tight spots like mentioned.
I like that idea!! Make sure it is below the MC though
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I like that idea!! Make sure it is below the MC though
Yeah, that should be easy enough. Thanks for the tip.
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Just ordered everything I think I need for shifter redo and hydraulic clutch. Assuming I didn't miss anything I may be ready for a shakedown in the next couple of weeks.
One last thing to deal with is a dead battery. Took it to batteries plus to get checked out. If its faulty it gets replaced, if not I have to figure out what is pulling on the battery with the ignition off.
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You will probably need a diode in one of the wires in the charging circuit to stop that. The battery is not likely the culprit.
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Batteries + called and the battery is good. The only thing I changed between good battery and dead battery is I hooked the ignition signal wire (with the 100 ohm resistor) to the ignition switch, whereas before I had it jumped to the fuse block. I'm not sure how it would drain the battery as it is, but I'm probably going to run it to the fuse block and use one of the abandoned lighting circuits for the 12v ECM ignition signal.
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You will probably need a diode in one of the wires in the charging circuit to stop that.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
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Try #2 on this. Pics a little dark, hope you can make it out.
Threw one of shifter rod just for fun of it. ;D
What shifter did you use?