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Use a gas lens,and a thumb button.Weld the joint with plenty of filler.Go back over it with no filler pulsing and positioning using the thumb button for heat only. If Boostinjdm does this on the weld he posted a pic of it will look just as good.
I am not a big fan about going back over the weld to make it look like stacked dime's. I have seen good welds crack doing that. Artie check this weld out. This weld is MiG. I have watched this guy work and he is and artist's with a MiG. He works for a buggy shop out of Garden City Kansas called Jackson's Motor Sports. This one will get you all wet. I have tried my best to replicate this and can not do it.
You guys make Me laugh. Paul "ZT fab" Has built more cars than most of you combined. If anybody knows what will hold up in an off-road crash, he would be one of the top ones. Carry on........
There was something in the thread that made me sit up and say WHAT to tho. He (Ztfab)said he cleaned the tubes after bending ,as we all do, and then said he scotchbrited or something the birdmouthed tubes but not the intersecting tube. I have to admit that I never scotchbrite/sand/grind moly tube before welding. It seems like others are fanatical about it.Seriously I've never had a weld break,not that there isn't a first time waiting for me, but I just don't see the importance of it.
Removing the mill scale or whatever the coating is allows the weld to flow out better preventing cold lap and contamination. It is especially helpful with stuff like angle and channel that has a thick coating. When tig welding the bead will have a brighter shine and mig welding you will have a noticably more stable arc. Hot rolled materials tend to have a much thicker layer than cold rolled or formed.
I understand that. I said I don't do it on moly.
Paint thinner contaminates the weld. You'll regret doing that on aluminum.