Author Topic: Boomer's Rig  (Read 9341 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Boomer-61

  • Guest
Re: Boomer's Rig
« Reply #30 on: December 15, 2009, 05:15:36 AM »
Sexy set up Carl.  What kind of travel are you getting?  My A-arms will do 24" but my shocks wont. 

Offline Carlriddle

  • Another build? What are you thinking?
  • Hero Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 4593
Re: Boomer's Rig
« Reply #31 on: December 15, 2009, 05:51:12 AM »
16"  Limited by ball joint.
You can keep your CHANGE, I'd like to keep my DOLLAR.

SPEC

  • Guest
Re: Boomer's Rig
« Reply #32 on: December 17, 2009, 04:01:11 PM »
Hey Boomer can you measure the Bolt pattern on the flywheel the small one...I want to make sure it will match up yo my output for the hydrostatic drive

Boomer-61

  • Guest
Re: Boomer's Rig
« Reply #33 on: January 07, 2010, 07:05:13 PM »
Dilemma.  See the pictures and imagine those parts in the back end of my buggy where everything is all lined up the way it's supposed to be.  From the engine the clutch is a 94c mounted to the 27hp Kawi motor.  The drive belt goes to the Polaris clutch on a 1" key'd jack shaft.  Key'd on one end and splined on the other.  The disc and jack shaft sprocket are on the splilned end and clutch on the key'd end.  The jack shaft sprocket is for a 520 chain.  My final drive sprocket is for a 40 series chain.  I need the jack shaft sprocket to feed off of the center line of the jack shaft so it will align with my final drive sprocket which is in the center of my buggy.  I have two problems:  1.  the jack shaft sprocket is not in line with my final drive sprocket, 2.  I have a mis match sprocket to chain.  What is the best option to make all of this align and compatable? 

Offline fabr

  • Administrator
  • *
  • Posts: 93125
Re: Boomer's Rig
« Reply #34 on: January 07, 2010, 07:16:55 PM »
Ditch the 40 series chain sprocket first off and get a keyed 50 series one,get a new piece of keyed shaft. Have keyway broached in the disc or make an adapter for it to work on the keyed shaft. Problem solved.
 
"There can be no divided allegiance here.  Any man who says he is an American,
but something else also, isn't an American at all.  We have room for but one
flag, the American flag... We have room for but one language here, and that is
the English language... and we have room for but one sole loyalty and that is a
loyalty to the American people."
Theodore Roosevelt 1907

-----------------------------------------------------------
 " You have all the right in the world to believe any damn thing you'd like, but you don't have the right to demand that I agree with your fantasy"

Offline fabr

  • Administrator
  • *
  • Posts: 93125
Re: Boomer's Rig
« Reply #35 on: January 07, 2010, 07:18:07 PM »
Keyed hubs and sprockets are readily available BTW
"There can be no divided allegiance here.  Any man who says he is an American,
but something else also, isn't an American at all.  We have room for but one
flag, the American flag... We have room for but one language here, and that is
the English language... and we have room for but one sole loyalty and that is a
loyalty to the American people."
Theodore Roosevelt 1907

-----------------------------------------------------------
 " You have all the right in the world to believe any damn thing you'd like, but you don't have the right to demand that I agree with your fantasy"

SPEC

  • Guest
Re: Boomer's Rig
« Reply #36 on: January 07, 2010, 07:51:00 PM »
If I remember right we talked about cutting a keyway in the jackshaft for the front sprocket to run and leaving the disc where it is on the shaft,
That will solve all but the 40 sprocket...I know that Doug can get you hooked up with the sprocket ;D
1" keyed weld hubs are readily available too...Now is there not enouph room for the brake rotor  to clear the motor?///I know you can lop the keyed end of the jackshaft off and re-key that really easily...That shaft has been shortened already

Boomer-61

  • Guest
Re: Boomer's Rig
« Reply #37 on: January 07, 2010, 07:51:12 PM »
The problem I ran into with the jack shaft sprocket is the inside dia., it's so small it wont fit onto the 1" dia. jack shaft.  To get the ratio I need, I need to run a 10 or 11 tooth sprocket.  There isn't a whole lot of material to work with to weld a hub onto it.  The steel is hardened on the two sprockets I bought.  They are intended to fit a motorcycle so boring them up to 1' was not within my scope of tools.  If I go up in teeth on the jack shaft sprocket to get to a bigger ID I start to mess with my ratios.  I need to run a 70T final drive to make it work with my 24" tires.  I like your ideas of keying everything, works for the most part.  I've already spoken with Doug about a sprocket.  Where can I get some jack shaft sprockets with a big enough inside dia. so I can weld a key'd hub to them?   

Boomer-61

  • Guest
Re: Boomer's Rig
« Reply #38 on: January 07, 2010, 07:55:50 PM »
Spec,  We did talk about that and I can adjust the length of the shaft no problem.  What I'm not able to do is slip that jack shaft sprocket to a more central position to get it in line with the final drive sprocket.  It too is hardened steel and I'm not able to grind it out to increase the ID.  I don't have a cutting torch either.  I'd like to keep all this stuff key'd to make my life easier.  So, where can I get some sprockets and hubs to weld up to fit a 1" dia jack shaft?  the disc is fine and should be out of the way.

SPEC

  • Guest
Re: Boomer's Rig
« Reply #39 on: January 07, 2010, 07:56:19 PM »
I had to custom grind and machine the one I sent you...
The other shaft I have is parked in a snowbank on the 750 :-[

SPEC

  • Guest
Re: Boomer's Rig
« Reply #40 on: January 07, 2010, 08:01:09 PM »
You can shorten the shaft on the clutch end, to put the sprocket where ever you need it to be, as long as the rotor will clear your motor, The chain and secondary clutch should even out the torque on the shaft...Plus I know those bearings will take the load ;D

Offline Boostinjdm

  • Hero Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1609
Re: Boomer's Rig
« Reply #41 on: January 07, 2010, 09:00:40 PM »
I'm having trouble seeing what your problem is.  I do know that fitting a 10-11 tooth sprocket on a  1" shaft is unrealistic.  You're going to have to reduce the diameter of the shaft.

If it where me.....I'd move the disc to the rear shaft next to the big sprocket, then have the shaft with the secondary turned down and keyed on the end so you can purchase a one piece sprocket and hub in the 10-11 tooth range.  They are available, in fact I have one sitting out in the garage for my buggy project.  I have come up with a novel solution, but will not post info on it till I complete the machining.  It'll make ya say, "why didn't I think of that?"
This post has been edited due to content.

Offline fabr

  • Administrator
  • *
  • Posts: 93125
Re: Boomer's Rig
« Reply #42 on: January 07, 2010, 09:33:29 PM »
10  or 11 tooth used with that huge rear sprocket is not going to give much chain wrap is it? You should have a minimum of 120 degrees wrap to prevent tooth skipping.
"There can be no divided allegiance here.  Any man who says he is an American,
but something else also, isn't an American at all.  We have room for but one
flag, the American flag... We have room for but one language here, and that is
the English language... and we have room for but one sole loyalty and that is a
loyalty to the American people."
Theodore Roosevelt 1907

-----------------------------------------------------------
 " You have all the right in the world to believe any damn thing you'd like, but you don't have the right to demand that I agree with your fantasy"

Boomer-61

  • Guest
Re: Boomer's Rig
« Reply #43 on: January 08, 2010, 04:50:09 AM »
Boostin,
    Look at the pics which I posted early on.  The rear drive is a piece of key'd axle to which I mounted my VW transmission hubs of which are attached my CV hubs, axles and stub axles.  The orientation of this unit has to be in the centerline of the buggy.  The jack shaft is splined on one end to accomodate the sprocket (smallest ID) and disc (2nd smallest dia).  Spec and Masterfab, this is where I'm having trouble.  I like the 1" jack shaft but to get the sprocket I own from Spec the ID is too small and I'd have to spline at least half of the axle to get the sprocket to line up where I need it.  I can't just shift the unit side to side, the clutch has to be in line with the primary clutch and the disc has to be way out board to clear the engine.  Is turning down the jack shaft on one side and keying it the best option?  Seems like there should be a better ratio or something so I can run a larger jack shaft sprocket and make this all work.  Incidently, I got my numbers and ratios from the engineer at Comet before they closed. 
« Last Edit: January 08, 2010, 05:48:53 AM by Boomer-61 »

Offline fabr

  • Administrator
  • *
  • Posts: 93125
Re: Boomer's Rig
« Reply #44 on: January 08, 2010, 06:01:00 AM »
Once more,first things first,check to see what chain wrap . No need to do what you want to do if you have less than 120 degrees chain wrap.You NEED to go larger and your shaft is doing you a favor by being 1" diameter and not allowing you to use a 10 or 11 tooth sprocket. Yes you will also need a larger rear sprocket to keep the ratios you want. BTW turning that shaft down smaller than 1" with all that overhang is a bad idea at best. IMO.
"There can be no divided allegiance here.  Any man who says he is an American,
but something else also, isn't an American at all.  We have room for but one
flag, the American flag... We have room for but one language here, and that is
the English language... and we have room for but one sole loyalty and that is a
loyalty to the American people."
Theodore Roosevelt 1907

-----------------------------------------------------------
 " You have all the right in the world to believe any damn thing you'd like, but you don't have the right to demand that I agree with your fantasy"

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal