Best place to get U-joint Axles

[fabr]

Let's simplify the terminology to parallel control arms since we use several variations of "A" arms. J,A ,H,Y, whatever doesn't matter.

[Carlriddle]

Im cornfused.  I going to stalk Fedex and UPS trucks........

[LiveWire]

With an H lower, you don't need an A upper, just a single link. This can help with packaging since usually there is more crap in the way up higher.

[Hollywood]

Mounting points are a factor also in rear H arms. Having the uppers further out a bit more help with camber change on the hub. But how much further out? Also should the arms be parallel and even in distance with the hub? Thats where there is more R&D in making Rear H arms.
My main thing in a buggy, sandcar, prerunner is that if you can fly through 2-3ft. whoops and still keep the chassis stable, then you can pretty much handle any kind of terrain. Problem with buggies is the rear wanting to buck forward. Thats where alot of shock tuning comes in play.

But after all this chat, I have been considering going with rear H arms and making driveshaft u joint axles.

[LiveWire]

Or you could just use 930 joints and EMPI micro stubs into Intrepid wheel bearings. It is way overkill in strength, but all the pieces fit together and are readily available.

[dsrace]

ok now I have a free minute.  on the topic of trailing arms, yep build a set and forget em like carl said. if you build them stong enough and locate them properly forward and back and side to side and the chassis is strong enough to support them. 

h-arm lower with single upper link, well in theory maybe but not something I would EVER suggest to someone!  no offense live wire but not a good idea for 1st timer imo and not even something I would want to try.

 muilti link rear end, all around support but links are able to flex so it is what it is and the easiest to tune , imo, harder to build though or more work that is. if you go muilti link then I would not even waste my time with 3 or 4 link just go 5 or 6 right off the bat.

for what you are doing with it I would say pca ( parallel control arms) rear end would probably be the all around strongest.

 i have a set of used half ton axle with stubs that already built to 30* down angle and fit the '97 jeep bearing.

now If you decide to build your own then there are two types of stubs used on the cherokee, you will need to call and get the p/n # for the correct one and don't bother going to the parts store cause if there computer doesn't reach out and bitch slap them they don't know it exists even if you have it in your hand in front of them!! lol lol

 trailing arms, I would say no uj's on those. so if you go that route forget the uj idea! the plunge is ok on the uj axles if you get the slip shaft with the teflon coating but if you forget to grease the slip shaft and it tq locks..... it  will rip the side off you trans off and on top of that ta's add a compound angle so............ya I wouldn't go there.

[dsrace]

DSRace,
Im researching your 97 Cherokee setup and I think Im understanding it a bit better now. The hard part is that Rockford doesn't have a very user friendly clear website or search. But I Googled the Cherokee parts and Im getting a better idea of what your talking about. Instead of using a micro stub 930 joint on like an f150 hub, your using the Cherokee Hub with the dana 30 axle stub/yoke right?
If im correct, then using the axle yoke is actually much better then a Micro stub because you gain about an inch or more of axle length putting the Yoke closer to the outer hub.

Would you happen to have any pics of your setup?

Are these the parts your using on your setup? I just pulled them from google to get an idea of the parts.
 http://www.1aauto.com/1A/wheel-bearing-hub-front/Jeep/Cherokee/1ASHF00011/322167/1997?utm_campaign=gb_api_br&year=1997&utm_medium=comparisonshopping&utm_source=google_base&utm_content=SHF&gclid=CKysjPHcqbICFWjhQgodPmoAhA

Outer axle shaft:
http://www.quadratec.com/products/52433_02.htm
 

yes but I use spicer stub and there is only the 1 style that will work which you have to order by p/n# only.

[CrazyFastFab]

Received my axles today.  They are used but built by this company.

http://highangledriveline.com/sandrails.html

These things are heavy, pretty sure these are for a 700hp monster 28 lbs a piece.

[BDKW1]

I'll bet you got a smoking deal on them.........

[Yummi]

Wowsers 28#?  That is a lot of beef.  They will not break.  Ever. 

[dsrace]

that is pretty heavy.  pull them apart and see if the splined center has a teflon coating?  if not keep them greased up good or they could tq lock. a lot of companies don't use that splined center they use steel on steel both have to be greased but the teflon not as much. what is the length from center of u joint to center of u joint end for end.

[CrazyFastFab]

Well I took the axles apart. it appears that they are all steal.  I took a bunch of pictures but can't post them in here?

[Hollywood]

Im building a set of 1310 u joints for a buggy project. Would like to see the pics of your setup also.

Those look like 1350's.
Yoshi from Sinister sand cars uses 1350's on his Turbo Busa cars.
Ive seen the Extreme Fabrication U-joint axles on the big V8 cars with trailing arms out in Glamis, have yet to see some from High Angle Driveline.

Ive just heard nothing but "Bad" reviews from Arizona Drivelines.   

[dsrace]

don't know who arizona drive line is but if they are affiliated with drive shaft superstore in any shape form or fashion just pull 2 $100 bills out of your pocket and throw them in a fire to cut out the middle man! lol worst company you could ever do buisness with!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!           I have a set of used u-joint axles if anyone is interested. 1310 series long story and figured I would keep them for extra's but........ might part with them.

[Hollywood]

Thats the one DS, Driveshaft superstore.
They have a good website and pics but thats all I heard about them thats good. Everything else Ive heard about their actual products have been horrible.