DTSFab.com (Desert, Trail and Sand)
UTV's Off Road ( RZR, YXZ, Mini Buggy, Carts,etc.) => UTV Member Project Logs => Topic started by: deranged on November 27, 2009, 01:56:12 PM
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Here is the progress on my Rorty r16 SHotgun build. So far I almost have the chassis done, and then I get to do the detail work like motor mounting, gearbox location, and that fun stuff. Here are some pics. (https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi135.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fq124%2Fjterrell731%2F103009001.jpg&hash=8c4fc05d729ec027f2d072af7bbf753758e5e5ef)
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Here is the rack plate, which I upped the thickness to .375, from .250 for a bit more rigididity.
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This shows how long the trailing arms are, compared to a crf 450...actually its a crf 50..JK
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The front Fox air-coil over shocks.
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi135.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fq124%2Fjterrell731%2FThe%2520buggy%2F112809010.jpg&hash=f102d01535d720137c8cc38009489f6932e8d6d2)
The motor, a 2005 CBR 1000RR
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As for my screen name, follow this link, and this shows you what I used to build.
http://www.minitruckinweb.com/features/ford/0807mt_1994_ford_ranger_splash/index.html (http://www.minitruckinweb.com/features/ford/0807mt_1994_ford_ranger_splash/index.html)
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What's your source for your hubs? They look like automotive parts.
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Very nice start and I REALLY like what you did for the a arm frame mounts.
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the rear hubs, are for a 1990 S-10 4x4 front hub, and bering assy. The bad part is, I had to have custom stubs made. Ther are made in the U.S.A, and have a lifetime warranty.(as long as I don't bend them.) Thanks Master, for the comments. I programmed them into our waterjet at work. The plans call out for a 2.5"x 2.5" tube cut up, I just thought this looked easier, and more custom looking. The buggy is bigger than what I imagined it would be, but thats what my wife said too!! :-[
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MMMMMMMM
waterjet ???
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Well here is the latest progress. I got the look on the roofline I was looking for. I couldnt help myself with the tape for a bit more of a visual. One issue is the tube, (actually green tape) that goes down from the top, with helmet issues??
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MOVE YOUR TAPE TO THE RED LINES. aLL TUBES SHOULD BE IN LINE WITH ANOTHER TUBE CARRYING THE LOAD PATH ALL THE WAY TO THE BOTTOM RAIL. nO TUBE SHOULD END AT A MIDSPAN OF another tube.
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like this
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VERY good point!! That will also give me more side room for my helmet also.. Thanks for the info!
Justin.
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If you haven't had the custom stubs made yet, I believe someone makes a stub with a 930CV mount face for those hubs. I probably can't locate the thread where we discussed it but I believe Glen (Fastcorvairs) on here is using them.
There is a picture of it on this page down by the parts description.
http://www.pacificcustoms.com/ac598995.html (http://www.pacificcustoms.com/ac598995.html)
I thought that Gear One made them but I can't find them on their page.
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how is the build coming along!???
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Hey everyone! I am still here. The wife wanted to re do the basment 2 and a half weeks before Christmas ??? Soooo, I pulled carpet, painted, re wired things, new lights, tile, and a 47" flat screen with a Yamaha/Klipsh surround sound set up. So I am taking a little break before I head to Vietnam for 2 weeks on a mission trip! After that it's game on, I have 90% of the parts I need to get it done, so there are no excuses not to have it done before this spring......UNLESS we get a little picture in the mail from South Korea, and a travel call...(we are adopting #2 from South Korea)
Justin.
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OK, I am back at it. My lower arms are done, and I have 5 more tubes to put into the frame, and then I can start welding it up. I now have the laser cut parts I needed for the front uprights. I was looking over wheel selection for the VW pattern, and there out there, but kinda pricey. I have the s-10 rear bearing, but the Tatum front brakes have the 5 on 105 pattern. Would it make sence to make an adapter for the front bolt pattern, to the s-10 pattern, for more wheel choices? I am going to run 31-10.5 tires all the way around, any thoughts?? :-\
Justin.
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Just run BTR's. Strong cheap wheel. Mckenzies has good prices on them.
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Those are VERY reasonable prices for aluminumn wheels!
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OK, its been a while, so here are a bunch of pics!
Tie rods..
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi135.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fq124%2Fjterrell731%2Fbuggy004.jpg&hash=b9a509470b07f91529f7a38579658a1b402f93b7)
Calpers.
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi135.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fq124%2Fjterrell731%2Fbuggy002.jpg&hash=8ae62bcd1e45ca478ecae8d8ac0c15e56a82d2d5)
Wheels
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi135.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fq124%2Fjterrell731%2Fbuggy001.jpg&hash=b8fe470cb3b133b3e8a48fedea51bcafc9524b59)
Lots of travel, with no bumpsteer!
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ROLLER!!
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And just some work place tom-foolery
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Looks good! Car has a good stands. 8) 8) 8)
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Wow! your making progress!
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It's got to feel good having it sit on it's own wheels! Thanks for posting.
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OK, some progress! I have been slacking for the lost 2 months, but I am back at it.. So far I mounted the RPM, so that I have just a fuzz over 1" of chain adjustment. The motor mounts are built, and I am working on the turnbuckles for the chain adjusters..they are 1/2" heims...
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YEAH, the front mounts are a little bit overkill, but hey.....
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This is kinda what I had in mind for the adjuster bracket.. There will he another bracket on the other side of the gearbox, and the "tie-rods" will push from the rear motormount tube in the top right of the pic.. What do ya think??
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It's REALLY nice to see you rotated the box back as far as possible. Longer chain will be a big positive of that decision.
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I actually ended up with 19.750" from center to center with the box rotated all the way forward. I am running an 18 tooth sprocket on the box, and a 14 tooth on the motor, with the 5.4-1 ratio in the box, sitting on 30" tires... I bought an RK chain with a 11,500 tensile streignth, non o-ring. We will see..
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I actually ended up with 19.750" from center to center with the box rotated all the way forward. I am running an 18 tooth sprocket on the box, and a 14 tooth on the motor, with the 5.4-1 ratio in the box, sitting on 30" tires... I bought an RK chain with a 11,500 tensile streignth, non o-ring. We will see..
??? ???
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Why non o-ring? Seems a poor choice IMO. I'm interested in your reasoning.
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Oh,hell,I see you mean rotated forward from it's laid BACK position?
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NICE work on the bracketry.
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Yes, you got it, box rotated where the chain is loose..As for the chain, I have heard that if the chain gets too hot, it will start melting the O rings. I don't have any real world experience with this, this is what I have been reading. Any thoughts on an O ring vs non O ring? I havn't cut it yet, so it can be returned...Thanks for the advice,and comments!
Justin..
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Return it and get o-ring. Non o-ring will not last at all. Heat issue on o ring chains is real but you have enough length that heat will not likely be an issue. Long chain =adequate cooling time.
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Plus an O-ring chain runs alot cleaner than a non O-ringed chain...just thinking ahead 8)
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This is good to know... The place where I got the chain from is way cool with returns. I appreciate the info guys!
Justin.
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Meant to say this before....
But it slipped my mind :-[
I REALLY DO LIKE THE LOOK OF THE SHOTGUN ;D
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Thanks Spec! OK, I am back at it... It has been a long busy summer. I DID exchange the chain for a Tsubaki 530, Sigma Gold X-ring chain, with 10,135 tensile. One question is the master link....I have heard you should run a rivet style link v.s. the clip style. Is there any truth in this? I just want to do it right the first time. BUT the chain I got does not offer a rivet style link for that specific one. Would a similar streingnth rivet link work for that size chain? Or am I thinking too much, and just run it.
Justin.
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A non rivet is just slightly less strong. Run it.
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I like your style... 8)...now BACK TO WORK!
Thanks.
Justin.
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So, what kind of fuel capacitiys do you guys have. My figures are getting me 5.3 gallons, but I could go bigger if needed.
Justin
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Just make sure the clip is facing the right direction...
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Yes! closed end will face front of vehicle when master is on top run of chain.
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Cuz otherwise thenchain will try to drive the clip off instead of on kick
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Mounting brackets look good!
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Thank you sirs! I know I owe you guys some pics...soon. 2 questions...what is a typical fuel cell size in gallons for trail riding, and small duning? 5-6 gallons? ALSO, how much toe change is acceptable from full droop, to full bump? mine toes out a fuzz at full droop, goes straight midway, and toes out at full bump. I dont have any hard measurements, just the old calibrated eyeball for now. Any thoughts? anything to look for? I just want to set it up right the first time.... 8)
Justin.
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Well those are good questions. Zer toe change is best of course but sometimes impossible th get . IMO,and there are many,is that a total toe change of 1/2" will not be felt in the sand. There are many of us that have near zero but I've seen cars with an inch or more. DO the best you can and strive for zero.
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For adjusting the toe change I will start with adjusting the rack from front to rear to TRY to get 0 change...Here is a shot of the front....should the heim joints on the rack be somewhat in line with the upper and lower control arm piviots?
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q124/jterrell731/The%20buggy/buggy004.jpg (http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q124/jterrell731/The%20buggy/buggy004.jpg)
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You're going to need a rack adapter before you start that will put the tie rod pivot points on a line intersecting the upper and lower a arm pivot centerlines. If you bought the plans there is a cad file/print for it.
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It would require some tweaking on spindle but, if you draw a line thru pivot points on the frame, measure how far in the pivot on tie rod at rack is say 2". Then the tie rod should mount the same say 2" from a line drawn thru the mounts on spindle. Yours is not even, its a tad higher on spindle, so raising the rack to make the arms and tie rod parallel. Now if the mounts on frame top and bottom are not same a spindle top to bottom then use a %. If you mount up 65% of on frame same on spindle %% wise. This should get you real close.
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He HAS to have a correct rack adapter FIRST.
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He HAS to have a correct rack adapter FIRST.
Yes he will need a rack adapter first to get the pivots in line with the top and bottom pivots. He will need to get his steering arms parallel with his top a arms to.
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Like this.
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and bingo is your name-o! That is exactily what I had in mind! The front suspension are to the prints, but there is always for improvment....The distance between the top and bottom heims on the uprights are about 1" further apart than the upper and lower piviots on the frame..as seen in the pictures....did that make any scense???HAHA
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Even with rack adapter to put in line with frame mounts. The spindle tie rod mount is outside the the line from top and bottom spindle mounts. Move the rack pivot out to be inline with frame, the tires will bow out under compression because of where its mounted on spindle.
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Look closer Carl. If he made the uprights to plans,and he says he did, they are in line. I enlarged the pic and it appears to me to be correct. Smaller pics made me have to look very closely.Enlarged it is more apparent.
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Actually, I just went to the man cave, and pulled tape on the uprights....the steering bolt is .500 further out than the upper and lower heims center line...hmmmmm, and the plot thickens. Those uprights came from Kludge....
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here's mine. It's not a big deal. I have less than 1/4" toe change in 24" travel. The inners are much more important. Rack position is critical and 1/16" change in position can make dramatic changes. Take your time! measure and measure and measure......................
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Make your rack adapter like rorty drew it and you'll be fine.
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and bingo is your name-o! That is exactily what I had in mind! The front suspension are to the prints, but there is always for improvment....The distance between the top and bottom heims on the uprights are about 1" further apart than the upper and lower piviots on the frame..as seen in the pictures....did that make any scense???HAHA
The steering mounts are further out on the spindles to provide Ackerman....
Everybody is making good points. Carl is correct that the tie rod should be close to parallel to the arms. And master is right that you will need that adapter to make the rack mounting points wider. Actually I think that you will find that the best width for the adapter on the rack is wider than a line drawn from the top arm mount to the lower arm mount. It needs to be wider because the mount on the spindle is "further out" than the outer a-arm mounts.
ETA: Based on the picture I think that Fabr is right. If the rack mounts are wider then the tie rods will get shorter and become parallel to the arms.
The thing that screws up the tie rod needing to be parallel to the A-arm is camber change because with camber change the two A-arms are not parallel to each other. So then you revert to Carls plan of the same percentage up for the rack as for the tie rod mount on the spindle for a happy medium.
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yup
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Make the adapoter as rorty drew it up. Shotgun specific that is.
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I will contact Rorty today to get that info from him! I really appreciate the very helpfull info! ;D Everything you guys have said makes scence, and I will sneak up on this and get it dialed in.
Justin
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And remember #1 rule tack weld. Then we have the front to back mount..... drowning
I agree, I think, with most. My head hurts.
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yeah, mine too...
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Cool! Rorty hooked me up with the updated rack extension! Just got done programming it into the waterjet, and I will cut it out tomorrow, and sometime this week I will get the front dialed in!
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See how easy that was? ;D ;D Too bad Rorty hates me................................. rofl
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Well, I shortened my tie rods, built the rack extender, and just by using the calibrated eyeball, it looks freaking good through 22"of travel.... I DO have some toe out at full droop though. But I read somewhere that you want just a fuzz of toe under full bump?? If thats the case, I will play with the plate the rack is bolted to...How come Rorty hates you.... ???
Justin
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Very small changes in rack position can make HUGE differences in toe change. Keep at it till it's as perfect as you can get it. Rorty and I don't see eye to eye on some things is all I'll say. No need to go into details or beaT a dead horse. I do believe that rorty makes the most detailed plans available and are 99% accurate and complete. Some may disagree with some of his design thinking but it's based on many years of practical experience. There have been a few that built "according to the plans" that were unhappy about some thngs but IMO the problems were due to the buiolder not being able to follow directions and not understanding the principles of a cars suspension/steering geometries. WHen someone like rorty draws up a set of plans they are pretty much proven in CAD to work as intended but if a small change is made or a dimension is slightly off while building it can cause major issues if the builder can't or won't build as designed.
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Well fellas, I am back... I have traveled half way around the world to get our daughter from South Korea, and will be finishing up some work on an s-10. Well, I got the front end straightened out. Sometimes I am just too damn picky, so I was sweating 1/4" movment. IT'S GOOD ENOUGH! :'( HAAA! I have made some progress. I bought a Civic radiator, a shroud from Rick, bought all my steering u joints, steering wheel, quick disconect, Kirke seats, G-force harnesses. My rear shocks are mounted. I need to add a tube brace on the upper mount though. Just working on some of the smaller detail parts when I can at work. So here are some pics....
This is where I was going to mount the radiator...I just didn't care for it there..
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Here is my radiator, fan , and shroud.
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Brake petal mounts.
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Shifter bell crank.
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Cool shiny stuff
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Rear shock placement.
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi135.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fq124%2Fjterrell731%2F149058_1468580522543_1474478880_30993129_7898530_n.jpg&hash=7e769c5a107f9f67160fe241c11ff60efc1e5744)
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Joints, and splined shaft.
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi135.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fq124%2Fjterrell731%2Fbuggy007.jpg&hash=2f11693ad93497fcdf85afa66bb6f26a4f9a11c6)
Seats.
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi135.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fq124%2Fjterrell731%2Fbuggy010.jpg&hash=7b72a1ae9d5f60001a402455932909858e059df1)
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This is what I had in mind for my petal mounts..
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I am mounting the radiator here....behind the rear seat. I will have an insulated firewall, and have some small side scoops. I know of a couple buggys with setups like this, and are working out great.
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi135.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fq124%2Fjterrell731%2Fbuggy013.jpg&hash=023ba41f70e167246ef4fdf9326b724c9e85e0cd)
The radiator plumbing will be REALLY easy as well. The top of the radiator is about 1-2" above the culinder head....
AND here is us in South Korea!! My sister in law is on the right, then me, my wife, Maya, and the foster mom...WHAT A TRIP!!
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi135.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fq124%2Fjterrell731%2FIMG_1328.jpg&hash=fa546a8eadf9bfca34618e97d91b8d86f181b8d5)
more shiny stuff...
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Congrats on the child and all the stuff looks good! I have a bit of reservation on the pedal mount tho but I may be wrong.
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Looking good!
Do the plans detail any of the steering shafts, joints, pedals etc? Or are you on your own? I like the radiator location even though I am sure some will complain about airflow there.
Congrats on the addition to the family!
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Congrats on the child and all the stuff looks good! I have a bit of reservation on the pedal mount tho but I may be wrong.
What is the problem? I need to know before I show mine.......
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There are some details on the steering shafts, but it's kinda fuzzy... I will mount the seats, and start with the steering wheel, and then the brakes, and work from there.. What were you thinking on the brake mounts...im open...hit me
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Yah I would like to hear the issues as well. I see there is a tube running from front to rear in the mid then those two tubes would run from that tube to the side? I am wondering if there is a steering clearance issue. I am afraid to buy pedals until I see where the steering shaft will run. I think that your procedure is correct Seat then steering then pedals.
That looks like the wilwood pedal setup. I was considering the same ones. Do they seem to be an adequate distance apart? Lots of times in race cars there is very little footwell space so they put them close together. I just wondered what you thought of them.
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Yes, there is a tube that runs front to back, and the petals I will adjust front to back, depending on where it feels most comfortable. Once in place, the 2 tubes running through the mounts will be welded. The petal spacing is 4.250" center to center if that helps any. The steering is going to be tight, but I feel pretty confident that it will work. Once the column passes under the bottom dash tube, it will jog to the center, and down to u joint #2, pass through another 3/4" heim, to the u joint on the rack. I might have to add anither support heim joint, but we will see....
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Well, it has been a while, but there has been some work done! My original idea didn't work for the brake master cylinders.. All the shifters are in, seats, steering is working, clutch is bled, harness mounts in, dash is made, fuel tank is made (not mounted yet), radiator is in, radiator overflow is in, and plumbed, RPM breather/ overflow tank is in...WOW, it's close!! I got a little redneck on the filler tube, but I had it laying around, and it has a roll over check ball built in. I have a battery, and the wiring sorted out, so my goal for this week is to make it run!!!
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi135.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fq124%2Fjterrell731%2F3311001.jpg&hash=6f73283dec369f54809e631a1d35dfbcbbce8dcf)
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi135.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fq124%2Fjterrell731%2Fsteering.jpg&hash=f8cc0695b6ea52ce829166d46e37bc4b59f407f6)
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(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi135.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fq124%2Fjterrell731%2FIMG_2174.jpg&hash=47e1a08e56dd301cf5fe6a1a47bd24c9e015dfba)
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AND, the bodywork has started....The rest of the aluminumn will be at the shop on monday, and as soon as I get off this stupid computer, i'm headed out to make some templates for the bodywork ;D
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Wow gone a few months and you have knocked out tons of the little crap. That's the stuff that sucks time and photos like you hadn't done crap. Looking good see ya in two months with a painted driving car.
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Hey thanks! that little crap seems to take f o r e v e r. I MIGHT paint it this summer yet. I want to beat the crap out of it just in case I need to modify things.
Justin
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BODY PANELS!!
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi135.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fq124%2Fjterrell731%2FIMG_2178.jpg&hash=ee68a0e54e9c603f9c65d68a394760f850ab3c86)
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i see a talon with a fat intercooler in the front..
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Good eye there voodo! It is a good griend of mines car. We are putting a really built tranny to handle the motor. I don't know the specifics of the motor, but its healthy....with a big hair dryer. I know he tunes it with a lap top...Being AWD, it's fast as F!!
Justin
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Great progress. Lots of good ideas.
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yea ive had my hand involved in a few of those awd talons.. lots of money can be put into those motors.. my friends had 400hp at the crank.. you can get massive power from those engines..
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Yeah thats fo sho!! OH yeah, speaking of power at the crank..... Gas in the tank, battery hooked up, and it RUNS!!! Now I just gotta finish up the few loose ends, skin it, order my axles, and coils...man its close.
Justin.
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Sounds like a shake down run at LS in May should be doable. See you there!!
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Carl, that might be a possibillity! What are the dates?? Im gonna mapquest it right now, and get a budget for it.. I have 3 weeks of vacation to burn up....
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Wk of May 16th-21st. I'll be there prob mon. Most will be in tues eve or wed.
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It's about 1,000 miles from Michigan...I like the idea of a week day trip instead of the busy weekends. How many peoplle from DTS are planning on going...
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I should see if others from my area want to go...I got room for 3-4 more in the F-one fiddy.
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900 miles ea way for me. Thinking I'll leave Sat 14th stop by Spec's Bar kick kick kick be there mon by lunch.
http://www.dtsfab.com/index/index.php?topic=3510.0 (http://www.dtsfab.com/index/index.php?topic=3510.0)
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hey deranged.. you gonna pick me and the buggy up on your way through? lol
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Voodoo, there will be a 5% fuel surcharge..lol. ACTUALLY I am gonna have to cancel out of that trip....We just found out we have another little one waiting for us in Seoul Korea, our son's biological sister! We will be going over to get her in the summer, so we gotta save up for that trip!
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Here are the weight stats...
Thanks guys! Here are the weigh in totals...
LF-286.9 RF-291.5
LR-361.5 RR-360.6 Grand total---------1,301!
Now with me and my wife in the car
LF-373.1 RF-359.8
LR-445.9 RR-439.2 Total with 2 people----1,618
This is everyting but some headlights, tail lights, small wiring items, seat covers, and body panels. It had 3 gallons out of 8 total gallons capacity.
Now to figure spring rates...
Each trailing arm/tire/wheel weighs 100 lbs
Each of the front corners weigh 80 lbs.
SO, with 2 people the un-sprung weight is LR @ 345.9, RR @ 339.2
the LF @283.1, and the RF @ 279.8
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Don't figure springs till you are 100% done and all the little things are in place,full of gas and with both of you in it. Do it now and you're almost guaranteed it be too lightly sprung.
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Thats great news on the lil sis. We'll see you next time, in the new 4-seater for the little ones. Dont forget the car seats.
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How many people from DTS are planning on going...
I'll bet there's about 25 DTS members with there spouses/families and few friends 8) 8) 8)
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Don't figure springs till you are 100% done and all the little things are in place,full of gas and with both of you in it. Do it now and you're almost guaranteed it be too lightly sprung.
Very true..Now being the Fox air/coil over, and little weight differences can be made up with a couple lbs of nitrogen right?
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My bad,didn't think about you using c/o airs. In that case I'd say your were correct. I'm thinking I'd like to run them myself for being adjustable.
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I did the FOA calculator, and for the fronts, I need a 14"main coil @ 185, and a tender 10"@ 125. The rear came up with a 16"@ 225, and a 12"@ 150. What I prolly will do is round down, and add nitrogen as needed..makes sence to me anyway.. What do ya think?
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Makes sense to me. I need to stiffen up my suspension on my shotty. Let me see what I'm running. New Blue Springs at the dunes 1 time only. Perfect condition.. I/we might be able to help each other out.
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Heck yeah! Let me know what springs ya got! Oh yeah, I ordered these suckers...the only ones I could find 30" long :o
http://www.tatummotorsports.com/product_info.php?cPath=27_67&products_id=170 (http://www.tatummotorsports.com/product_info.php?cPath=27_67&products_id=170)
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I could have gotten you slip joint axles for about the same price. How much plunge you have?
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I think its about 1.5" from full droop to the axles being straight across..stub to gearbox. Iwould have to check to be exact.
Justin
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Not bad . Over what travel?
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I have 20" right now...I could adjust where the lower shock mount is to get more if the CV's will allow. Once the axles are in, I will un hook the shock, and get the CVs to their limit, and back off the travel a little bit, and see where I am at. I have 3" clearence @ full bump.
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I have 2 each of the following:
14"x165# red Eibach
12"x125# red Eibach
16"x250# blue Blue Springs
14"x175# blue Blue Springs
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I have 2 each of the following:
14"x165# red Eibach
12"x125# red Eibach
16"x250# blue Blue Springs
14"x175# blue Blue Springs
Are those springs for the 2.0 or 2.5 shocks? :) :) :)
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2.5" ID
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I might have to take you up on a couple of those springs... The guy @ FOA (Mike?) said I should run 25 to 30% droop to start with...does that sound right?? I am going to double, and tripple check my measurements, and re calculate things according to what FOA is telling me.
Justin
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Still waiting for my coils, and axles...BUT here is some picture porn...lol. It REALLY needs a wing, not for function, but for looks...it just needs something there.
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi135.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fq124%2Fjterrell731%2FIMG_2311-1.jpg&hash=bf038b603d279eb23c3bca7adc317aa6af8177f7)
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VERY COOL RIDE! ee: ee: ee:
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very nice work man! I like the attention to detail, and the body work as well!
Mastr, I may be interested in the 16x250 springs.. Got a pair? hehehe pm me with details so we don't muck up this thread.
All I gotta say is you guys are killing me... You have all this open space, and I have tight woods. Don't get me wrong, I love the woods with a quad.. But I'm quickly noticing I want more and MORE open space! And I've only got a single seater piranha.. Im starting to like the bigger cars like yours, but there's no way I could ride that near me..
At least I can look for now ;) LOL
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OK, I built a wing this week, and it turned out quite nice, if I say so myself! My axles came on Friday, now I just have to find the time to install them..
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi135.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fq124%2Fjterrell731%2FIMG_2344.jpg&hash=238949b141eb4d4ef4faa8335a6e30684b7a3448)
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Justin
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(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi135.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fq124%2Fjterrell731%2FBugggggy.jpg&hash=b2ac751d1276cc4194bfbe36a9f0cee9454940ed)
All right! I got the coils on it, the axles in it, and took it out for a cruise around the block...The EMPI morse shifter cable failed where it is crimped together.. thumb down I am having Valley Truck make a new, industrial streignth one today.. It felt really good. First gear take off was really smooth, and it pulls hard in second and third! It does however idle really low once warmed up. So I have to get to the bottom of that one. There is one sensor I have to figure out what it does, and where the vaccum line goes, but all in all, it is up and functional! Man it felt great to drive something that was a pile of steel a year ago!
Justin
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Congrats. I think the wing balances it out visually very nicely and no doubt makes it faster.
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Thanks Yummi... Broke another effing shift cable ??? Thinking about doing one like Engineer did on his rail...SOLID! no cable.
Justin
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Looking Good Justin!
What size cable are you running on the shifter?
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I was running a 10-32 cable..now its a 1/4" cable. I drove it for about 20 minuits, and it is good to go! 6th gear comes really quick 8)
Justin.
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I think the wing balances it out visually very nicely and no doubt makes it faster.
+1 ;D ;D ;D
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How much did it cost to make this?
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Just a thought have you considered raising the wing about a foot ?
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How much did it cost to make this?
Since this thread was over 3 years old I'll give it a shot in the dark. If I were to take a guess,that buggy would cost between $10K and $15K in parts and materials. Many run more. A lot depends on driveline and shocks chosen.
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He sold the car, maybe a yr or so ago. Most likely for less than he had in it.
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a lot of good intentions wind up that way but one can only hope he didn't sell it and buy a utv lol
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Nope, he's building a RickS designed AR51, along with a ProtoDie kid's buggy.
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good to hear
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WOW, I have not been here in a long time. I tore the car down, powder-coated everything, drove it for a summer and sold it...for a profit. I sold it for 14,000, and had 10 into it. I water jetted all my own plate-work, machined all my own parts at work. By doing that myself, I saved a lot of cash. I am in fact building another car, an AR-51, and a Proto-die kids car for the little ones. I should start a build thread here...
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Oh yeah, my powder-coating was done at work too.. I ran it through when we were slow.
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(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi135.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fq124%2Fjterrell731%2FIMG_4046.jpg&hash=0d89f704163254b57748ca1abf8aaf9bbbdbf6ac) (http://s135.photobucket.com/user/jterrell731/media/IMG_4046.jpg.html)
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(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi135.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fq124%2Fjterrell731%2Fth_042.mp4&hash=0cdc4687f919fed23a8b81c927fc06713ef053b9) (http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q124/jterrell731/042.mp4)
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WOW, I have not been here in a long time. I tore the car down, powder-coated everything, drove it for a summer and sold it...for a profit. I sold it for 14,000, and had 10 into it. I water jetted all my own plate-work, machined all my own parts at work. By doing that myself, I saved a lot of cash. I am in fact building another car, an AR-51, and a Proto-die kids car for the little ones. I should start a build thread here...
Very cool and yes,you should!
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(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi135.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fq124%2Fjterrell731%2FIMG_4046.jpg&hash=0d89f704163254b57748ca1abf8aaf9bbbdbf6ac) (http://s135.photobucket.com/user/jterrell731/media/IMG_4046.jpg.html)
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(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi135.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fq124%2Fjterrell731%2FIMG_4052.jpg&hash=7f6ec6a3be0c4ec8796fdbe58a7793d78a5b41f2) (http://s135.photobucket.com/user/jterrell731/media/IMG_4052.jpg.html)
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi135.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fq124%2Fjterrell731%2FIMG_4054.jpg&hash=27883ef62b847ffabef39fa22313583941860b08) (http://s135.photobucket.com/user/jterrell731/media/IMG_4054.jpg.html)
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Great looking car.