I rock race professionally but look to you for help

[fabr]

with a light car you will want to also reduce everywhere you can the unsprung weight as said earlier. I think money will be key here. You will not need as strong wheels and tires also can be lightest possible since the car is light as possible . Wheels can be custom or at least lightened. Tires? Can a suitable tread be "recapped" onto a much lighter carcass? Hubs can definately be put on a diet also. Disc brakes done inboard.move shock mounts as far inboard as possible. Lots of areas to cut unsprung.

[BDKW1]

Personally for a high speed desert racer running 37's, I wouldn't go below 3500#'s. Most desert race trucks are in the 5K+ range off the line.......
 
If you want to make it handle, reducing unsprung weight is the key. Sprung weight, not so much.
 
If your running IFS, a Cheby 2500 unit bearing will take a 934 axle shaft. Light weight and compact. A forged rim will be lighter than a cast wheel. Run inboard brakes.
 
Something to watch.......  http://www.race-dezert.com/forum/showthread.php?t=77912

[Islander]

With the steering, I'm guessing you want to run 4 wheel steering?  Just throwing it out, but would electric power steering be up to the task?  that would cut some weight as well, I would think.  I've never set one up, would it turn 37's in the rocks?

[Engineer]

They have the add-on busa alternator kits which I can't locate the link for right now.  Could you use one of these kits and substitute the power steering pump.  Or better yet get both.

I wonder if you mounted a busa transverse like Fabr is doing then shaft fed the output directly into a lighter transfer case, where you would end up with gear ratios, and top speeds?  I believe rotation would be the correct direction. 

Then use the center section out of a newer AWD vehicle.  Turn the front one over....  Many newer vehicles that you can buy 2wd or 4wd are front wheel drive when 2 wheel drive, and they add the rear pumpkin and axles to make it four wheel drive.  Ford escape comes to mind because you can see the rear pumpkin on 4wd but on 2wd the brackets and everything are the same, but the pumpkin is missing.  I just wonder what the width of the center section is.  If that isn't tough enough I know they do the same thing on heavier vehicles.

[trans man]

Here's an idea for you, there is a version of 094 (091-1) vw transaxle , that ran a front output shaft, which would eliminate the need for the transfer case and a couple hundred pounds! This would work great with Masterfabr's custom Busa transaxle coupler. 

[fabr]

Oh shit! Now we're in business!

[fabr]

What was that unit in? Hard to find?

[trans man]

They ran these transaxles from 1987 to 1991 awd vanagons. You can get them in a 4 speed or 5 speed version . These transaxles are out there in the junks, we will have to go looking for them.

[dsrace]

now that's some good info!

[trans man]

I will call Weddle tomorrow and find out if they have or make a custom racing ring and pinion. The output shaft is coupled directly on the end of pinion shaft at the front of the transaxle.

[fabr]

Is that an output shaft or a PTO shaft?

[trans man]

It's an output shaft. Vw ran a drive shaft to a front differential from there.

[fabr]

Oh COOL,COOL,COOL! You don't have a pic by chance?

[dsrace]

for a build such as this what would be the better ifs design? a-arm or j-arm etc?

[Boostinjdm]

If I'm reading this right, that makes for a pretty simple rear engine, busa powered, 4x4....