Hayabusa instrument cluster wiring

[stevieturbo]

Hi, newbie here.

I'm looking to retrofit a set of year 2000 Hayabusa clocks to another vehicle and need some help.

I think Ive identified most wires on the clocks from the various diagrams. But was wondering if anyone could fill in the blanks.
Clocks as shown





Viewing rear of dash/connector, ie wire side.

Top row, left to right

Green = Right turn +12v
Black = Left turn +12v
Blue/Black = Lights up Neutral lamp on -ve when clocks are powered up
Grey = 12v power, backlight ?
Yellow = Main Beam +12v
Green/yellow = Oil pressure switch -ve
Orange/green = 12v power  ?
Black/White = Chassis Ground

2nd Row again left to right

Black/White = Chassis ground
Red/Blue = ?
Yellow/Black = Fuel level signal
Black/Red = Speed sender
Pink = Speed sender
Blank pin
Yellow/Blue = Tacho ( rev counter )
Black/Green = ?

Thanks in advance.

Need confirmation of coolant temp signal wire.
And what lights up the FI lamp ?
Also which of the 2 speed sender wires is the actual signal ?

[fabr]

Want a wiring diagram?

[stevieturbo]

Want a wiring diagram?

Ive seen the full loom diagrams both here and on a Hayabusa site which is where Ive got the above information from.

But I cant track down what operates the temperature gauge

I'm hoping it isnt fed via a data stream from the engine ecu. But can't find any info.
I am not using the bike engine or ecu. I'm just fitting these clocks to a car, because they are handy, very compact and fit very well.

If there is a specific instrument cluster diagram, then that would be excellent

[fabr]

So far as I know there is no cluster wiring diagram as such. I THINK the temp sender feeds the ECU and then is fed to the cluster. Reason is that the ECU controls A/F ratio depending on coolant temp.

[stevieturbo]

So far as I know there is no cluster wiring diagram as such. I THINK the temp sender feeds the ECU and then is fed to the cluster. Reason is that the ECU controls A/F ratio depending on coolant temp.

The diagrams Ive seen would confirm the ecu definitely receives the ECT signal. As to how it then relays this to the dash is the issue. If it was a simple voltage/resistance signal it would be easy.
I'm just beginning to think it's via a datastream of some sort. Same with the error codes and FI warning light.

Ive left the clocks with a local electronics guy, as I think the speedo is faulty anway. The joys of buying off ebay !!
Ive asked him to see if he can suss out if the temp sensor works of a conventional signal or not.

There are only 2 dash wires I dont know what they do though. Black/Green and Red/Blue.

[fabr]

Any FI errors,sensor errors,damn near anything electronic will trip the FI light.

[Engineer]

The diagrams Ive seen would confirm the ecu definitely receives the ECT signal. As to how it then relays this to the dash is the issue. If it was a simple voltage/resistance signal it would be easy.
I'm just beginning to think it's via a datastream of some sort. Same with the error codes and FI warning light.

Ive left the clocks with a local electronics guy, as I think the speedo is faulty anway. The joys of buying off ebay !!
Ive asked him to see if he can suss out if the temp sensor works of a conventional signal or not.

There are only 2 dash wires I dont know what they do though. Black/Green and Red/Blue.

I would guess that the error codes must be a datastream, which if they are doing that and have a chip in the gauge panel then it would have been easy for them to also use the data stream to control other functions.

However the temp would require an analog out which would be more intensive than the digital out required for the error codes and FI light.

Have to tear it apart to tell. 

[stevieturbo]

I would guess that the error codes must be a datastream, which if they are doing that and have a chip in the gauge panel then it would have been easy for them to also use the data stream to control other functions.

However the temp would require an analog out which would be more intensive than the digital out required for the error codes and FI light.

Have to tear it apart to tell. 

If only it were so straightforward. All gauges are stepper motors, so not conventional voltage style swing meters. So they all have processor control. After that, it goes wayyy over my head. But there is more than one IC on the board itself.

So far I have the gauges in and working now. The local electronics guy repaired the speedo head. Not sure what he did, but must have been easy as he didnt charge much.
Amazingly too, speedo only reads about 12% fast. But it works perfectly, and odometer is working too.
Ive ordered a signal adjuster from Jaycar that should allow me to calibrate the speedo so it is accurate.

So everything is in and working, with the exception of the temperature gauge ( and of course any fault diagnostics, but when there is no engine/ecu to diagnose, I will overlook that lol )

It does seem odd though. As the fuel gauge does have it's own sender, which is analogue, 10ohm to 135ohm full-empty. So this gauge does have a processor that can handle that signal and use it to operate the stepper motor.. I wouldnt have a clue how make something similar work for temperature though.

Only annoyance now after just driving, is the LED's for indicators etc are very intense at night time. A bit too bright really. So will need something to dull them down a bit.

[stevieturbo]

I'll give this a little update, in case anyone is interested

I have the clocks fitted and everything working. I bought a little DIY Speedo signal adjuster kit from Jaycar in Oz, and now the speedo works accurately. It allows you to adjust +/- 100% in 1% increments.
And even I was able to build it !! Cheap too.

Rev counter signal is controlled by ecu, so no big deal there.

Fuel gauge works, but require a new sender to match the Busa calibration.

Temperature gauge. As thought this does require the Busa ecu to be in place as this info is fed via pin 56 Dash Data stream to the Dash.
The guy I bought the clocks from sold me the wiring and ecu at a good price. Bit of an extreme temperature gauge controller, but I'm happy it all works now !

So thanks to all who offered advice and wiring info etc.

Success

[fabr]

great to hear!