DTSFab.com (Desert, Trail and Sand)
The Machine Shop => Tools/Tips and Tricks => Topic started by: fabr on August 27, 2013, 10:59:00 AM
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I just saw this. Has anyone tried it? Looks like the best yet possibly in an affordable price range.
http://metal.baileighindustrial.com/tube-notcher-tn-250 (http://metal.baileighindustrial.com/tube-notcher-tn-250)
http://www.trick-tools.com/Baileigh_TN_250_Hole_Saw_Tube_Notcher_TN_250_3871#.UhzauT_jdOV (http://www.trick-tools.com/Baileigh_TN_250_Hole_Saw_Tube_Notcher_TN_250_3871#.UhzauT_jdOV)
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I looked at it when I bought my last notcher.
Just to be clear I have not used it but I wonder if the clamp is very stable. It doesn't appear to contact much along the axial length of the tube and there only three contact points. I think if you modified it to clamp on a longer length along the axis of the tube it would be very stable. The downside to that is how close you can notch to a bend.
The other negative for me was the price.
Just my opinion. Your's may differ :)
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I have same concerns as you about the clamp and about alignment of the tube in it.I also worry about it after a lot of use. In theory I like it a lot for those long copes and ease of offset cuts. The price is not really bad if building more than 1 buggy.
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I have used the crap out of this one. A bit pricey also but,IMO has been worth every penny.
http://www.trick-tools.com/JMR_Hole_Saw_Tube_Notcher_w_Shim_Kit_TN1000_3881#.Uhz22z_jdOU (http://www.trick-tools.com/JMR_Hole_Saw_Tube_Notcher_w_Shim_Kit_TN1000_3881#.Uhz22z_jdOU)
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I have this one. So far it does everything I want it too. It's the more rugged of the two they sell in my price point. It also is a little more expensive than the other one they make.
http://www.pro-tools.com/hsn-501i.aspx (http://www.pro-tools.com/hsn-501i.aspx)
I have used the cheaper one ( Racer Model) they offer. It's not as robust and the "settings" move on you (the spindle mounting leaves alot to be desired!).
http://www.pro-tools.com/hole-saw-notcher-racer-model.aspx (http://www.pro-tools.com/hole-saw-notcher-racer-model.aspx)
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I like the rigidity of all of those . Saws last MUCH longer.
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Are you guys using with hand drill or drill press? Seems like the trick is finding a good holesaw bit. People that love these notchers are buying good bits.
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1/2" Milwaukee variable speed hand drill with the torque handle for your left hand. Trust me you need the left hand when the holesaw catches ! I've tried all different kinds of holesaws. Honestly I just use whatever now. The super expensive ones don't last all that much longer than the garden variety ones. The secret is don't rush and heat it up just let the saw do it's work at it's own pace.
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I hear you on the handle. My 1/2" drill has about broke my wrist a couple times. Thats why i like the press.
I cut all my notches latly with my mr sparky saw. Very fast and touchup with belt sander.
Good info on the blades..
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Theres some very good reviews on OFN for the Baily one. (I spell Baily my way!)
Also a guy makes additional jaws so it closes down to smaller than stock tube diameters.
They say its very rigid and no slippage problems.
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Are you guys using with hand drill or drill press? Seems like the trick is finding a good holesaw bit. People that love these notchers are buying good bits.
Hand . The best saws for notching will have constant pitch teeth and NOT variable pitch like most you find in stores today. I use Starrett constant pitch holesaws since I have a ready source of them @ MSC ;D ;D Starrett make both constant and variable. They also last very well. Most holesaws now days are variable pitch and work much better on things like wood or thicker metal.
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Theres some very good reviews on OFN for the Baily one. (I spell Baily my way!)
Also a guy makes additional jaws so it closes down to smaller than stock tube diameters.
They say its very rigid and no slippage problems.
Post a link to the topic!
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One last thing,I also use a Grizzly router speed control to slow down the drill(1/2" Milwaukee also). Run the saws at around 80 RPM and there is no need for any messy oil . The saws will cut dry for hundreds of cuts even in 4130 dry and no stripped teeth.
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You got it boss....
http://www.offroadfabnet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8624&highlight=baileighBonus (http://www.offroadfabnet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8624&highlight=baileighBonus)..
And the link to "Billys" thread that was mentioned above
http://www.offroadfabnet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8600&highlight=baileigh (http://www.offroadfabnet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8600&highlight=baileigh)
Bonus....click the link posted by Dog.
http://www.offroadfabnet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10069&highlight=baileigh (http://www.offroadfabnet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10069&highlight=baileigh)
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Thanks hammer1 I'll check them out. I like OFN myself.
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GOOD INFO hammer.
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One last thing,I also use a Grizzly router speed control to slow down the drill(1/2" Milwaukee also). Run the saws at around 80 RPM and there is no need for any messy oil . The saws will cut dry for hundreds of cuts even in 4130 dry and no stripped teeth.
I picked up a (Handy Man 1/2 shop drill) I ain't going to say how many years ago but rumour has it about forty. Found it in a pawn shop for $25.00. Turns 90 RPM. Sucker will twist you up in the cord in a heart beat ifen you hang up a bit. Ask me how I know that. ???. Was building my press at the time and need to drill a lot of 1/2" holes for the table to adjust up and down. I was standing on the two big 3/4" pipe handles that screw into the side of it when the bit hung up. Twisted me up in the cord and spun me around like a marry go round until it pulled the plug out of the wall socket,. rofl rofl That is what I use with my tube notcher. Still using the same hole saw's I started with on my first build.
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I have a 1" milwaukee drill that I mounted in a powerstroked hone I built years ago. The very first thing in the manual in letters about 3/8" tall was the warning,"serious injury or death can and will occur with improper use of this very high torque drill". I've never before or since seen such a warning on any hand held tool.
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I use the JD2 Notchmaster and I have no other experience with Notchers. The JD2 was definitely in my price range ($300, I think) and worked fine for my Barracuda build, but if I were building custom cages I think this would be a much better tool. Cutting into a bend wouldn't work with the JD2 (at least not at my skill level).
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I don't see how this:
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.trick-tools.com%2F%2Fcommon%2Fimages%2Fproducts%2Flarge%2Ftn-250_1.jpg&hash=8c9e5f7401ecc4647eccc257054a95e299724914)
Helps me make this:
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffl350r.com%2Fimages%2Fsuspension%2Fuppers.jpg&hash=43a931bc37359646a3aca02c6afee48a9e1aa91a)
Unless the the clamp is also adjustable up and down. I have custom fixtures for those arms. Even if it does adjust up and down, I don't see how it would make a repeatable notch.
Anything new, I am using the two straight cut method of notching. I wrote an app to run on my phone to give me the cut angles.
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I believe that will allow you to do that.
Personally ,I do not like the two notch method especially on larger tube. I want my saddle to be a tight fit . Makes for a nicer weld. Not necessary,just a preference.
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I actually like that it leaves a V for the weld to fill.
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Spooky! An hour or two after reading this thread and watching the videos I watch a youtube video about GoPro and the advertisement video is a bailiegh bender. Zero privacy! Suppose I wanted to shop for a diamond for my wife and then she suddenly starts seeing ads for jewelry stores and gets tipped off and ruins the surprise.
Note: I don't have enough money for a buggy and a big diamond... and you can't drive a diamond. rofl
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Spooky! An hour or two after reading this thread and watching the videos I watch a youtube video about GoPro and the advertisement video is a bailiegh bender. Zero privacy! Suppose I wanted to shop for a diamond for my wife and then she suddenly starts seeing ads for jewelry stores and gets tipped off and ruins the surprise.
Note: I don't have enough money for a buggy and a big diamond... and you can't drive a diamond. rofl
Ebay is same way, what you looked for will be ads for next time.
BTW Big diamonds will get you free rides, no driving required. But thats for a diff thread. ;D rofl
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And it doesnt take anywhere near an hour...its instant.
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Obviously a custom fixture is going to be better than a mass produced multi diameter notching tool. But do you want to make a custom fixture for every tube for every new job?
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I have seen this notcher first hand and I too thought it would not hold the tube steady as it seems so narrow a grip area but it does indeed hold it dead solid.
One turn off I had to it was the fact it could not do smaller tube but the info on the special jaws may change that and if the new job comes thru this will be on my soon to get list. Bill
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Good to hear. The small OD jaws are a bonus also. Something tells me Baileigh will be doing that mod before long.