hayabusa tip over sensor

[fabr]

Several good ideas!

[trojan]

I'll have to disagree that the "in-line" fixing will provide any (much) strain relief.

I would recommend bending one resistor lead just as it comes out of the ceramic back on itself and trimming the leads so one is 1cm longer than the other. Now trim your hookup wire to meet the leads and fit plain heat shrink to both lead/wire connections. Solder.

http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?SKU=5710595&MPN=ATUM-12%2f4-0-STK

Then get a piece of the shrink Fab is on about which overlaps the resistor connections down the wires by 5cm and over the end by 2cm. Apply the glue-shrink starting at the wires end. When you get to the open end, shrink it to max and while hot and soft grab it hard with pliers to create a seal.

Done properly, this arrangement can withstand significant vibration, flexing, high pressure water and submersion to 10 metres.

[Reidy02]

See I told ya he's a smart man!

[Camel]

Shit stirrer....... :P

The ends are looped and soldered.

Heatshrink is slipped over the soldered joint, towards the resistor and shrunk.

The clear plastic hose is then slipped over the lot, the ends heated (along with insulation) and then clamped with needle nose vice grips until cooled.

Both the heatshrink and clear plastic tube dampen vibration.  The tube also protects the resistor and allows you to readily see any breaks.

Not that I've ever had one come back that broke due to vibration.

 

[Ozpilot]

I'll have to disagree that the "in-line" fixing will provide any (much) strain relief.

I would recommend bending one resistor lead just as it comes out of the ceramic back on itself and trimming the leads so one is 1cm longer than the other. Now trim your hookup wire to meet the leads and fit plain heat shrink to both lead/wire connections. Solder.

http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?SKU=5710595&MPN=ATUM-12%2f4-0-STK

Then get a piece of the shrink Fab is on about which overlaps the resistor connections down the wires by 5cm and over the end by 2cm. Apply the glue-shrink starting at the wires end. When you get to the open end, shrink it to max and while hot and soft grab it hard with pliers to create a seal.

Done properly, this arrangement can withstand significant vibration, flexing, high pressure water and submersion to 10 metres.

Spot on!!

[trojan]

Camel's method is good, just that mine is better

You could easily improve it by putting plain thin shrink on the leads if the resistor all the way up to the ceramic and folding it back on itself and then seal it in the clear plastic tube .

In a previous life I designed/engineered and built laboratory and industrial sensors

[fabr]

These aren't lab instruments troj.

[Boostinjdm]

Can you put the resistor right at or in the comp?  Even on like 6" of wire it could be looped over and taped or clamped or hot glued right to the outside of the comp.  Inside would be best, but I don't know if you can open them up or not. 

[Camel]

Okay, something like this?



And Boostinjdm,

whatever works, inside the component would be fine, e.g. here's a K8 Busa fuel pump relay, rather than pay $uzuki dollar$ you could always use a standard Bosch relay, open it up, wire resistor in place and seal her up again. 



Just clearly mark it so you don't try to use it for something else, e.g. spotties.

Camel

[trojan]

Sheesh! if I offer a better solution to your buggy frame, will you go out and build it in an arvo

You almost got it. Folding and trimming is in order to make the whole deal shorter and as such less prone to bending and therefore braking. You should fold from the ceramic and then trim both leads short as is practical. It's quite possible to make the whole assembly 2cm sealed
Secondly adding plain shrink to the lead almost doubles it's resistance(pun) to bending fatigue.

Fab, we're talking essentially industrial sensors. I could have gone nuts and suggested potting in neutral cure mouldable silicone or more if I was inclined  towards overkill. Although, simple potting in epoxy (araldite) would be a good solution for me. If it were lab stuff then there would be a metric shitload of shielding just to start

the unappreciated problem here is the physical junction between the lead and the body of a resistor is unfortunately fragile.

[Boostinjdm]

I meant computer not component.  It makes sense to me that the computer is full of resisters and such. So if you have to add one, that would be the place to do it.  That's just me.  You guys can do things however you see fit.  If you have found something that works, then stick with it.

[Camel]

Inside the ECU?  That would be ideal, however, ever tried to get past the potting in a motorcycle ECU, or CDi, or most electronic components?  THEY ARE BASTARDS!  Not recommended unless you're masochistic.

Trojan, time to bring out the latex suit again! 

[artie on edge]

Inside the ECU?  That would be ideal, however, ever tried to get past the potting in a motorcycle ECU, or CDi, or most electronic components?  THEY ARE BASTARDS!  Not recommended unless you're masochistic.

Trojan, time to bring out the latex suit again! 

oh... THE latex suit.... I didnt like that.....