DTSFab.com (Desert, Trail and Sand)
UTV's Off Road ( RZR, YXZ, Mini Buggy, Carts,etc.) => UTV Controls and Electrical => Topic started by: 455bird on May 21, 2009, 11:01:05 PM
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Well looking at my harness tonight I notices that the tip over sensor is missing, I know on the Yamaha R-1 you need it to get the motor running is it the same for the busa? any way to jump it?
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Mate you need to replace it with a 68 K ohm resistor.
like this so it wont fatigue and break....
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi293.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fmm54%2Fartieonedge%2FTOSReplacementBusa.png&hash=78d84006da33567543940b1d31ca7ff7b2df1c35)
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Isn't that one camel did?
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Isn't that one camel did?
Yes it is..... I like his electronic stuff...... ;)
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He's a smart Lad!! Or clever bugger!!
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Gotta watch you guys
That is actually in my Buggy was the first resister he put in
There is another that has to be put in somewhere in the ignition wiring also not sure on what ohm it is tho
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Gotta watch you guys
That is actually in my Buggy was the first resister he put in
There is another that has to be put in somewhere in the ignition wiring also not sure on what ohm it is tho
Damn! Caught!
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ooh ya busted Artie :o Ah well he's still a smart fella non the less.
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Damn nice resistor install!
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I was lucky enough to have Camel work the same magic on my igition system, Really does a great job on it!
The plastic is just hose simular to window wiper hose.
Cheers
Phil
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I was lucky enough to have Camel work the same magic on my igition system, Really does a great job on it!
The plastic is just hose simular to window wiper hose.
Cheers
Phil
Yes and then heat sealed to the wire jacket.Nice! I used heavy wall heat shrink tube with adhesive inside.
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I used heavy wall heat shrink tube with adhesive inside.
Where do ya get that from Fabr? We used to have it at the stereo shop and I really liked it.
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Thanks guys, I'm feelin' the love!
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Where do ya get that from Fabr? We used to have it at the stereo shop and I really liked it.
Most any electrical supply house will have it. I get mine local. just make sure that it has the adhesive lining. Fuses itself right to the insulation.
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Another solution is clear heatshrink tubing. You can still see the resistor markings, and, with thin dymo tape, leave notes on your harness under the heatshrink, (not too much heat though! It'll crinkle and shrink the dymo tape!)
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Several good ideas!
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I'll have to disagree that the "in-line" fixing will provide any (much) strain relief.
I would recommend bending one resistor lead just as it comes out of the ceramic back on itself and trimming the leads so one is 1cm longer than the other. Now trim your hookup wire to meet the leads and fit plain heat shrink to both lead/wire connections. Solder.
http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?SKU=5710595&MPN=ATUM-12%2f4-0-STK (http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?SKU=5710595&MPN=ATUM-12%2f4-0-STK)
Then get a piece of the shrink Fab is on about which overlaps the resistor connections down the wires by 5cm and over the end by 2cm. Apply the glue-shrink starting at the wires end. When you get to the open end, shrink it to max and while hot and soft grab it hard with pliers to create a seal.
Done properly, this arrangement can withstand significant vibration, flexing, high pressure water and submersion to 10 metres.
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See I told ya he's a smart man! ;)
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Shit stirrer....... :P
The ends are looped and soldered.
Heatshrink is slipped over the soldered joint, towards the resistor and shrunk.
The clear plastic hose is then slipped over the lot, the ends heated (along with insulation) and then clamped with needle nose vice grips until cooled.
Both the heatshrink and clear plastic tube dampen vibration. The tube also protects the resistor and allows you to readily see any breaks.
Not that I've ever had one come back that broke due to vibration.
:-*
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I'll have to disagree that the "in-line" fixing will provide any (much) strain relief.
I would recommend bending one resistor lead just as it comes out of the ceramic back on itself and trimming the leads so one is 1cm longer than the other. Now trim your hookup wire to meet the leads and fit plain heat shrink to both lead/wire connections. Solder.
http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?SKU=5710595&MPN=ATUM-12%2f4-0-STK (http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?SKU=5710595&MPN=ATUM-12%2f4-0-STK)
Then get a piece of the shrink Fab is on about which overlaps the resistor connections down the wires by 5cm and over the end by 2cm. Apply the glue-shrink starting at the wires end. When you get to the open end, shrink it to max and while hot and soft grab it hard with pliers to create a seal.
Done properly, this arrangement can withstand significant vibration, flexing, high pressure water and submersion to 10 metres.
Spot on!!
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:-*
Camel's method is good, just that mine is better (https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi153.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fs233%2Fbuggyland%2Fsmileys%2Fboogie.gif&hash=1fc6ebad5187cefbed24614c8d50bf9dda7b143a)
You could easily improve it by putting plain thin shrink on the leads if the resistor all the way up to the ceramic and folding it back on itself and then seal it in the clear plastic tube .
In a previous life I designed/engineered and built laboratory and industrial sensors ;)
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These aren't lab instruments troj. ::) ;D ;D
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Can you put the resistor right at or in the comp? Even on like 6" of wire it could be looped over and taped or clamped or hot glued right to the outside of the comp. Inside would be best, but I don't know if you can open them up or not.
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Okay, something like this?
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi156.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ft20%2Fcamel_geselle%2FK8%2520Hayabusa%2FNewresistor2.jpg&hash=4c9f866748cf0ba7bb888529997cde56f605de01)
And Boostinjdm,
whatever works, inside the component would be fine, e.g. here's a K8 Busa fuel pump relay, rather than pay $uzuki dollar$ you could always use a standard Bosch relay, open it up, wire resistor in place and seal her up again.
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi156.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ft20%2Fcamel_geselle%2FK8%2520Hayabusa%2F1point1_K_Ohmcopy.png&hash=a622b81c21dbc0f260bbd14656cbfb273c82cfd9)
Just clearly mark it so you don't try to use it for something else, e.g. spotties.
Camel
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Sheesh! if I offer a better solution to your buggy frame, will you go out and build it in an arvo :-*
You almost got it. Folding and trimming is in order to make the whole deal shorter and as such less prone to bending and therefore braking. You should fold from the ceramic and then trim both leads short as is practical. It's quite possible to make the whole assembly 2cm sealed ;)
Secondly adding plain shrink to the lead almost doubles it's resistance(pun) to bending fatigue.
Fab, we're talking essentially industrial sensors. I could have gone nuts and suggested potting in neutral cure mouldable silicone or more if I was inclined towards overkill. Although, simple potting in epoxy (araldite) would be a good solution for me. If it were lab stuff then there would be a metric shitload of shielding just to start ;)
the unappreciated problem here is the physical junction between the lead and the body of a resistor is unfortunately fragile.
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I meant computer not component. It makes sense to me that the computer is full of resisters and such. So if you have to add one, that would be the place to do it. That's just me. You guys can do things however you see fit. If you have found something that works, then stick with it.
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Inside the ECU? That would be ideal, however, ever tried to get past the potting in a motorcycle ECU, or CDi, or most electronic components? THEY ARE BASTARDS! Not recommended unless you're masochistic.
Trojan, time to bring out the latex suit again! :laugh:
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Inside the ECU? That would be ideal, however, ever tried to get past the potting in a motorcycle ECU, or CDi, or most electronic components? THEY ARE BASTARDS! Not recommended unless you're masochistic.
Trojan, time to bring out the latex suit again! :laugh:
oh... THE latex suit.... I didnt like that.....