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UTV's Off Road ( RZR, YXZ, Mini Buggy, Carts,etc.) => UTV Chassis and Suspension => Topic started by: Voodoochikin04 on April 22, 2009, 12:25:17 AM
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here is a before and after video of new shock mounts and what not.
"http://www.youtube.com/v/t2Wkogwgcp4&hl=en&fs=1"
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Front end looks better, but I have a feeling you won't know till you drive it. IMO an idler on the power side of the chain won't hold up. I see bearings going out in your future. would be better to raise engine, or lower the a arm mounts.
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2 things, although I don't recommend a tensioner like that, if your gonna do it, don't put it on the top side of the chain.
And 2,.ummmmmmm,..you got some better pics of those rear uprights from 3 min. into the video? ::)
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also, do you have any other pics of the front shock mounts?
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Looks like you have got the spring rate fixed. What is left? Looks like your about ready for a test drive.
Oh and that rear upright that is just a flat strap....... it would be easier to fix that now than after it has bent over into the wheel and left you stranded.
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i know about the rear uprights not going to work.. i just have not gotten to the rear yet. i have been working on decicing how to rebuild the front end for the last few months. not that is done.. i can start on the rear.. due to piss poor design i have to have an idler on the power side of the chain, to clear the stupid arm. i cant move the arm without rebuilding the entire rear end. with that said, i would have to make new arms, which means to put them in the right spot they would only be like 8 inches long. too short for any type of travel.... so i need help.. i would have to raise the engine like 3 inches to clear... i just dont have that kind of room... :(
also, i have about 6 inches of tube left.. it worked out perfect, if i didnt need to redo anything.. ::)..lol so i really need to work with what i have but modify it to work.
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Might be able to weld some plate to the side of thoe rear uprights making a U shape. I'll try to go back and look at better pics.
Chain wont go over rear arm??
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yea chain will go over rear arm, with use of an idler.. either under or over.. but the idler is still on the power side of the chain.. my dad says i should redo the rear end.. but i just dont know how.
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how hard would it be to move the carrier that is holding the sprocket and brake up? Would the CV's be able to take up the difference?
If you do run the idler, can you put it in front of the arm so it just lifts or drops the chain a little? putting it right under the arm where the chain makes a full 90 is going to be very hard on it. If the chain was just making a 30 degree bump it would live...... longer.
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Why can't you shorten the rear upright 2-3" and drop the a-arm mount 2-3"? then maybe chain could go over the top without an idler. Maybe?
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Why can't you shorten the rear upright 2-3" and drop the a-arm mount 2-3"? then maybe chain could go over the top without an idler. Maybe?
Good idea right there! With the amount of travel you have and your arm length it would hardly affect the camber curve. It would give a bit extra camber at full compression, and a bit less at full droop. You might not have to do anything to the upright, but since you need to reinforce it anyway, you could move the inner then see where you stood with the upright. Worst case cut off the top of the upright, and weld it back on with zero camber at ride heigth.
Your on a roll Boostin! Just full of good ideas lately. :o
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notice where the arm pivot is.. behind the sprocket... can move it down.. theres no room.. i took the plunge today and started making a new frame around my current carrier, im movng the arm pivot to mtch the cv's. i will have to shorten my arms by 6 inches.. but they shouldnt be much shorter than my fronts.. it will put 8 inches in between top and bottom arm instead of current 10.5 meaning i can change the upright....
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Your on a roll Boostin! Just full of good ideas lately. :o
I'm always full of it, at least that's what I'm told....
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yea chain will go over rear arm, with use of an idler.. either under or over.. but the idler is still on the power side of the chain.. my dad says i should redo the rear end.. but i just dont know how.
IMO your dads right, mate you got smarts, just look at what others are doing, and play wiht scap, mock things up. Ideally you wont have an idler at all, but i tcertainly will not work for long on the power side of the drive.
Vood, you can do it and its best to do it now, while in the set up stage.
Keep it coming dude...
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Ditto.
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question.... i made my new a-arm tabs last night. the diameter of my arm bushings are like 1.5 inches. which means they come really close to the contact between the tab and frame.. sooooo, is it ok to just weld the outside seams of the tabs and not weld the inner???
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here is a before and after video of new shock mounts and what not.
"http://www.youtube.com/v/t2Wkogwgcp4&hl=en&fs=1"
Are you sure you and enemy aren't related? ;D I had to laugh watching it while thinking about the vid enemy made of himself in his buggy. You guys are funny! 8)
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i never seen his video.. got a link?
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Post#34 DTS FAB DUNE FLAGS PREORDER You'll love it!
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your wrong..lol.. theres no video there. post 34 is whiplash saying he wants one.
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Sorry,it's #186.
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new video.. it shows the start of new rear frame. then my new arms with tires mounted. also closer front shock mounts for yoshi, and my modified steering rack..
"http://www.youtube.com/v/lvgHb_1QgAA&hl=en&fs=1"
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Looks like you have a plan, you will find you get a lot cleaner weld if you clean the stuff off first, flap disk works excellent... ;D
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what stuff? welds just fine...
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what stuff? welds just fine...
scale, the hard external surface of highly heated metal... take it back to bright shiny steel before ya weld it (says me who welds like chicken shxt!) :-[
Just on welds, I had a good hard look at th ewelds on my chassis. It has to pass scrutineering in a few months and I thought how good do they look? I know they penetrated well and the fillets are good with no undercutting.. but they just arent the prettiest welds in town. THe scrutineer cant see the weld happening and can only go on what he can see in front of him.
So I got hold of an old associate of mine (welding teacher at our tafe CAMPUS .. trade school) to reweld the whole thing...sure he says, pick a weekend and illl TEACH YOU HOW TO DO IT... im happy with that....
:o :o :o :o
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what stuff? welds just fine...
Welds fine, But try it clean and see how much finer it welds, you'll be impressed...
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For the record, I am no weld scrutinizer myself, I can weld, likely a certification would not be on my welds, Only talking from my personal experience when I suggest to clean them...
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ok thanks.
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Mr Artie, my welds were also simular to how you described yours and have my CAMS log book for it.
Hope it helps.
by the way, are you just racing TORC, or are you going to do Class 1 and come race next year at hyden!? 8)
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Mr Artie, my welds were also simular to how you described yours and have my CAMS log book for it.
Hope it helps.
by the way, are you just racing TORC, or are you going to do Class 1 and come race next year at hyden!? 8)
Mr Jet... you loon.... nah Im doing the TORC rounds only but particularly the enduro's. The idea of 1.5 hours thrashing the crap outta the car, having a 30 min break then another 1.5 hours thrashing the crap ouuta the car again (perversely) appeals to me.... sad thing that I am...
Im sure that it would be ok, but I dont want some dick being officious on th eday ruining my day.... plus it wont hurt to be more profficient in the black art of mig welding. Ive never had any formal training so this cant hurt.....
Also the VORBC is hostin grounds this year as well and Winton isnt too far from me so I may do those rounds as wel... we'll see...