DTSFab.com (Desert, Trail and Sand)
Automotive Powered Off Road (AKA: Buggys, Jeeps, Trucks, Etc,Etc. ) => "AP" Member Project Logs => Topic started by: lockedup on March 04, 2009, 05:09:41 PM
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Well im going to finally start my build thread dd: Heres the start the base of the frame is made of .120 and the tubing is 1.25 .120 also. The motor is a 1980 GS1100 shaft driven. for a rear end im using a axle out of a toyota mini truck ( tacoma, etc.).
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Nice start! Keep the pics coming!
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Ya
Is looking good so far
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That looks great, cant wait to see it progress.
Also, a new shed?? Or a new house?? I ask cause the shelves are empty.... cant find room to put a spider on mine.... ::)
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Well its kinda both, We bought the house about a year ago and the garage was never finished with drywall. So i just got done drywalling it and put all the shelves and benches in. I think i have to many shelves thought cause i can even fill one wall with stuff. I guess just give it time.
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You'll fill 'er up eventually. I moved from an apartment where I had to park on the street, to a house with a two car+ garage and a 36x56 steel building. Less than a year later I was parking on the street again cuz I didn't have any room left. ;D
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Ok, here's somewhat of an update. I didn't get much done tonight, mainly cause i ran out of things to do. Im needing to get my rear axle or start on the A arms so im kinda at a stand still till then which hopefully wont be to long. I moved the motor forward about 12" and centered the drive line and it fits a lot better like that. Im waiting on all the bracing till i get most of it done so in case i decide to change something i don't have to rip out a bunch of tubing.
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I like the lines
Looks good, Your going to have some serioud hoops to keep that drive shaft away from you....Ya? ;D
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Well i havent got much in the way of progress but i guess some is better than none. I have been thinking long and hard about my drivetrain options and i have finally set on an option, it actually just fell in my lap as a free motor ;D Ill leave it a suprise for a little longer :-X , atleast untill i get it mocked up in the chassis. Which should be in the next week or so ;) All i will say is that I am going to have to move this build to the automotive powered section :g
Here is the some what progress so far
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What is the clearance for in the rear of the diff?
Is that a ford 9"?
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What is the clearance for in the rear of the diff?
Is that a ford 9"?
No its a Toyota 8" and the clearance is for the fill bolt.
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Let me know when your ready for the move ;D
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Let me know when your ready for the move ;D
Im ready!!!
Well here it is. jj:
Its a 305 SBC with a 4 speed borg warner tranny. Now before i start catching crap for the size of tubing i already relized this ;D SO...... I am just going to brace the Sh** out of it. I think with proper triangulation it will be good.
I am going to be doing boxed lower A-arms with a J-arm upper and the rear is going to still be a triangulated 4 link. I am going to pick up more tube tomorrow but i have to wait till i get my intake to do anymore on the cage.
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And this is my other little project i picked up for $200. and it runs perfect!! The people thought it had a bad motor because it wouldnt start but it turned out it just need a new starter relay.
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Done...
That's cool as hell ;D
I got a 305 with a turbo 350 sitting on my bench right now ;D
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Holy crap what a score :o wish I could get a score like that.
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Ok, i have questions cause this is along the lines i was thinking not to long ago. Whats your width and wheelbase going to be? It looks to be about the size of a UTV? Are you worried about the unsprung weight of having the solid axle back there, i know it's been mentioned to me before cause i wanted to run a toyota axle as well, cheaper then a transaxle. Where do you plan on running this at? Looks good keep up the good work, sorry bout all the questions.
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No im not to worried about the weight, Im actually hoping it will help to even out the weight when taking flight :) because the motor is forward mounted. The wheelbase is going to be somewhere around 96-100" I havent set it yet so im still playing with it. The width is going to be 72"+ . Its mainly going to be ran in the dunes and desert maybe a little of around town driving if its not to much of a PITA to do that.
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how do you think the toyota rear end is going to hold up vs using a 9inch, i only ask cause of the picture in you avatar :) are you switching over to disc brakes ?
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how do you think the toyota rear end is going to hold up vs using a 9inch, i only ask cause of the picture in you avatar :) are you switching over to disc brakes ?
Yea it should be fine im only running a 305, but.... time will tell ;D The thought of disks has come across my mind but right now im not doing it i probably will later down the road
Im picking up more tubing tommorow and getting to work on getting the front end together. I also found some coilovers so hopefully ill have some a arms fabbed up here in the next couple weeks.
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The 305 is a pretty tame V8. The toyota axle should hold up to it.
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I know of a Toyota 4 Runner that is about 15km's away from me that is running a set of 38's and a really beefed up 383 stroker small block on nitrous that has been running the Toyota axles for almost 10 years now. He drives it like he stole it every summer beating it through bogs and hill climbs while still logging street miles every year, and has only broken the axles twice that I know of, and he is still running them. With the much lighter weight of your truggy and the unfortunately really low for a V8 power of your 305, you should be fine for a long time.
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All 305 Chevy V-8s aint wimps.
I have seen a older (early 80's ish) monte carlo with a factory 305 and an automatic that you could turn the wheel all the way to the side and stomp the gas and it would whip donuts spinning both rear tires (posi) till you let off.
Also when I worked for a fiber optics installation crew we had a 2wd chevy long bed pickup with a 305 and an auto and even loaded with all the misc crap (about 1000 pounds worth) in the bed we would take it and drag race stop light to stoplight and I do not recall it ever losing. It was not mega deep geared either it would run 100 mph down the freeway without trouble.
I learned a long time ago to never under estimate ANY small block chevy till you have seen it run. No matter what the displacement.
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I will agree with you there, but there is still no comparison between a 305 and a 383. Hell, I'd take a 283 any day! Little mouse'll scream!
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Yah but most 305s are factory stock. A 383 is a built engine any way you look at it. You don't assemble a 383 for the gas mileage. At least I have never heard of someone doing it.
They are both chevy small blocks. But comparing a 305 to a 383?
Its not apples to oranges but it sweet VS sour apples at least.
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The only reason I have a slight problem with the 305's is that they, for some reason, are the most detonation prone small blocks in the family. I think that it just has something to do with the smallish bore and the bad cylinder head design. That being said, I had a Camaro, Monte Carlo, and a few half tons with 305's. Could never kill them, and I tried many times, just for fun. I wasn't trying to say that the 305's were a bad motor, I was just saying that they don't make enough for me to worry about the Toy axle.
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I got a 305 on the bench now...Trying to decide what to do with it ;D
They're not a bad motor...
I just don't understand when GM did the 305 why they didn't do the 307 instead...
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They should have kept the small journal 327, now that motor was fun. Dad had one in a 66 Chevy II. He still has another 327 that he won't let me have....
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Ya,
327's are getting rare...
I got a fuelie in my 71, pickup...
Altho I sold the inj.
and opted to play with the old 1 barrel for fuel milage ::)
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I will agree with you there, but there is still no comparison between a 305 and a 383. Hell, I'd take a 283 any day! Little mouse'll scream!
I ran low 10's with a .060 over 283 in a 2500# car many years ago but I really like my 434 and 428 SBC's best. No comparision.
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This 305 came out of a mid 60's camaro (cant remember the exact year) and it ripped pretty good. Not as good as the 383 the guy put in it to replace this but that car was probably 4000lb? and i dont esitmate this car being anywhere over or near 2500lb so i think it should do real well for what i want. The rear axle has 4:11 in it so it should go good ;D hopefully.
But.....
Last night i got some good progress. Finished up the main part of the front end and got it fully welded this morning. Heres some pics, im really happy with how this is looking.
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I'm liking this, an't no busy its Detroit.
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After all this 305 debate, any progress on the buggy? How are you planning the exhaust? Full pipes and mufflers, or straight up obnoxious zoomies ;D
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After all this 305 debate, any progress on the buggy? How are you planning the exhaust? Full pipes and mufflers, or straight up obnoxious zoomies ;D
The updates are 2 post before yours ;D and im running the exhaust out the side and i will mount a magnaflow 4" round muffler on the side of the chassis. Even though there will be headsets in this i want to be able to hear till im atleast 25 ;D
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4" single right? Even a 4" single is huge for a 305, even a 350 and bigger. Hell the Cummings in my Freightliner only has a 6!!
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4" single right? Even a 4" single is huge for a 305, even a 350 and bigger. Hell the Cummings in my Freightliner only has a 6!!
Im sorry its not going to be a 4" exhaust the diameter of the muffler is 4" the exhaust will be 2 1/2
Here's some more updates, got the window bars and the roof bars in
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Looks good ;D
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yup, looks good.
And in case no ones said it yet......
NICE SHOP!!
;)
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and both Islander and locked up got your first smites ;D Yup, it just had to happen at some stage and I couldnt see why it shouldnt be from me... enjoy boys! 8)
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Locked, im no expert mate so Im only talking from barwork experience. Have you had a good look at the make up of the full sized trucks? The reason I ask is that now with the v8 you are imposing full sized vehicle loads on teh beasty.
The barwork supporting the front suspension mounts, IMO, will need a bit of tying in yet. If the spring/shock is going to mount onto the lower arms (I am assuming), I feel it will impose large sideways loads and it will need some help in staying put. I can see a big hit on one wheel pushing that thin centre chassis rail sideways.
Having said that I am assuming also (I do a lot of that) , that more barwork is to be installed yet...
Go get em mate.... ;)
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Thanks for the smitie Artie, and thanks for the concern. There is still a TON of bar work to go into the front ;D This is just the main design and i will add more stuff when I get around to doing the front suspension.
On that note I decided to change my transmission. After getting all the tube work in i relized that there is just not enough room to run a manual tranny. The clutch lever sticks about 6" into the cab around my knees so... Im looking for a th350 or 400 and that way i will have alot more room and all i have for pedals is brake and gas so that will open it up alot more. So more to come as soon as i find a Transmission for a reasonable price. Then its seat mounts and dash and suspension and.... Oh man theres still alot to do :o
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If you are set on running a auto, I would run the th350 or even a powerglide to keep the weight down some. Plus, I like the ratio's in the th350 better then the th400. I've got a th400 in the shop, and it's heavy as all hell!
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It's looking good. Makes me want to go out and spend money to start my project :) I'll be interested to see how it handles in the dunes with the straight axle. I've thought about this route as well as a transaxle and midboards would hurt any budget, and i think this route is more reliable. I've been reading up on a lot of things and a TH-350 sounds like the way to go, alot of the trophy lites are running that trans. Keep up the good work
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I will be interested to see how it works too. I have done some thinking of this kinda of creature but I was worried the straight axle would casue it to lean under power so I wanted an IRS rear end so the twist torque would be contained in the chassis.
These two IRS rearends below are ones I snagged for it if I ever get around to it. The roundish one is a Ford unit and the long one is from an Audi (Note the Audi is a Quattro rear end. Some of them like this one can be open or locked solid just by switching the lever on the side. Some cars it was cable operated. This was operated by air. Even a simple lever can shift between open and locked.)
The Glock is just to show a comparison in size. (It was handy... ;) )
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oooookkkkkk..... so thats a Glock huh? Thats a gun isnt it?
Anybody wanna restart the gun debate? :-X
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how are the guys from Oz supposed to figure out how big those things are? Maybe you could trace a body on the floor just for them. ;D
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A tape measure would have worked just as well ;D But then it goes back to the oz thing, would have to be a metric tape. I thought about using an irs rear end as well, but with the travel numbers most would be looking for i think they would be to wide. I found something just a few mins ago that might work i'm gonna start a new thread so i can hear everyones ideas.
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Here we go. ;D
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a mid 60's camaro huh? you have 67 68 69 to choose from.. was not aware 305's came in those years........??
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Here we go. ;D
Thanks mate, I was having real trouble with that... ;D ;D ;D
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Look in the corner compare it to bills shoe, It is about a size 16, lol... ;D
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a mid 60's camaro huh? you have 67 68 69 to choose from.. was not aware 305's came in those years........??
Thats what the guy i got it from said?? Does anyone know how i can run the casting #'s. maybe its a 327 ::) I can wish i guess
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The 307 was the replacement for the 283 chevy produced this motor from 1968 til late 1972...It was basically a 283 crnk in a 327 block...Really a good motor except for the "soft camshafts"
I ran these in roundy rounds in the 305 classes till they figured out how my cars were pulling every other cheater down the straights...If I remember right 3.25 stroke with a 3.75 bore...305 didn't come in until the late 70's as a 350 look alike...same stroke as a 350 with only a 3 625 bore...not enouph boom for the stroke...where a worked over 305 head cut to fit a 1.940 valve was a good Hi- comp cheater head they didn't really have the meat to port...altho #882 castings found their way onto both the 350 and 305 ... 882 castings were my favorite "claimer" heads...What they lacked in flow they often times made up for it availability, plus they often were a thicker casting than the "normal" 350 head...
I forget the numbers at this moment...
A quick check of the harmonic balancer will give you a idea when the motor was produced a narrow harmonic balancer is fron the old days where a wider one is from the mid 70's till now...Another dead give away is the extra bolt hole on the exhaust port on the head... ::)
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Well it has a really wide balancer so maybe it was a mid to late 70's camaro instead of a 60's ;D I probably got it mixed up ::) But i found a th400 for $75 so im going to go with that and do a manual shift down instead of hooking it to the carb. So more progress monday
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That 307 was a good motor. The first V8 I ever put together was one of those (in about 1981 :o) - it was bored to 4" so it was a 327 but it still had the small crank journals. It came as part of a car I bought - it had two V8s in peices in boxes - and I'd never seem a V8 in pieces before - pretty fun jigsaw puzzle for an 18 year old! I found out about small journals after buying bearings to suit a "regular" 307. It had solid lifters for some reason. That was a great engine - good memories!
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You bored out a 307 block to a 4" bore? THere was nearly no cylinder wall left.You were very lucky you didn't hit water . Even tho you did not hit water you had a very unstable cylinder wall. Glad you got lucky.
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Very bloody lucky by the sounds of it!! :-\
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Well it has a really wide balancer so maybe it was a mid to late 70's camaro instead of a 60's ;D I probably got it mixed up ::) But i found a th400 for $75 so im going to go with that and do a manual shift down instead of hooking it to the carb. So more progress monday
TH400's downshift from a electrical switch on the side of the transmission that's triggered by a switch under the gas pedal. Should be very easy to make it work the right way.
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400's are vacumn controlled.
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All the ones I have seen use the electric switch as lance said, Is there a variance between yrs?
Vacuum upshift, electrical downshift..
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May be.My experience is early 70's.
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My experience is with manual valve bodies! Screw them both!
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I did some checking and there is indeed a full vacumn/governor controlled th400 as I am familiar with .Later models added electronic controls.
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Ok, I have got alot of work done in the past couple of weeks. I got the motor and tranny all mounted and in place, front bulkhead for the a arms is built, some of the main interior bars are in, and the biggest thing is i got the rear 4 link all figured out and ready to rock, theres still more bracing for the rear 4 link mounts to come and i got the floor all done but my camera died so..... it will have to wait till next update ;D . So heres some pics of the updates
I want to give a big thanks to Ruff Stuff Specialties for some awesome deals on heims ;D
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Holy snappen Duck shit Margret that's a cool looken buggy so far!! Well done.. ;)
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You sure this is a mini truggy? Looks kind full sized to me.... but what the fark would a lil aussie know.... we just gods chosen ones.... ;)
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Reidy.... get stuffed mate..... :-*
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I like the inbuilt safety features.. like collapsible seat mounts. Thats always a positive. Tried and tried but can tfind a way to incorporate that into my buggy build.....
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Reidy.... get stuffed mate..... :-*
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I like this build, Lockedup ;D
I am alittle concerned with the torque stresses that the V-8 will be putting on the chassis...But it looks like they're being addressed 8)
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My only concern is the Exhaust on the rear two cylinders will be really close to your legs, and the heat will be crazy. Are you going to used wrapped headers? What are you doing for a firewall between you and the motor/trans? Not picking, just wondering.
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My only concern is the Exhaust on the rear two cylinders will be really close to your legs, and the heat will be crazy. Are you going to used wrapped headers? What are you doing for a firewall between you and the motor/trans? Not picking, just wondering.
Well the headers are going to be running forward and out through the front and down the side so they wont be going back. But i am going to wrap them. Theres going to be more bars tieing in the 2 interior bars you see to the floor along with a driveshaft hoop. But there will be a piece of 16 guage sheet metal lining the whole cockpit (I think thats how to spell it haha) area so it will all be seperate. Im going to be getting most of that done tommorow hopefully, but im waiting on seat tabs to mount the seats. I may just make some if i cant get ahold of some fairly cheap.
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Just didn't want to see something like what happened to Don Garlits (I think that's how you spell his last name ::) ) he lost half his foot in a front engined dragster due to a tranny coming apart, for those who don't know drag racing history.
Are you building your own headers, or turning around a set of shorties?
Those valve covers are sweet, BTW ;D
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Just didn't want to see something like what happened to Don Garlits (I think that's how you spell his last name ::) ) he lost half his foot in a front engined dragster due to a tranny coming apart, for those who don't know drag racing history.
Are you building your own headers, or turning around a set of shorties?
Those valve covers are sweet, BTW ;D
Thanks i got them at a yard sale for $5 and they came with a sweet chrome oil pan haha. But i am building my own, i have a set of long tube headers that im going to cut apart and use the bends and stuff.
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Shorties out the front would be a lot easier(maybe ???) and not much money.
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straight pipes out the "hood" - AWESOME!!
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We call those demolition derby zoomies around here.
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Lookin good! How does that motor/tranny come out of there? I have had issues with carbs at wierd angles in the past,
What carb are you using? Looks like a holley from the one pic. They make a nice off-road unit that we had good luck
with. I think something was just done to the vents so they didn't pour out and maybe some other float/bowl mods.
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Lookin good! How does that motor/tranny come out of there? I have had issues with carbs at wierd angles in the past,
What carb are you using? Looks like a holley from the one pic. They make a nice off-road unit that we had good luck
with. I think something was just done to the vents so they didn't pour out and maybe some other float/bowl mods.
Some of those Holley's had a spring under the float to help prevent a bouncing float that would cause flooding. There were even a few spring loaded needle/seat assemblies.
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holley truck avenger is what your gonna want if you go holley, of course ever brand has its own version... they are made for rock crawlers and what not that run at weird angles.
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Some of those Holley's had a spring under the float to help prevent a bouncing float that would cause flooding. There were even a few spring loaded needle/seat assemblies.
A very real problem with serious offroaders. I had webers on the lil beast and a flood pump set up. This was an electric fuel pump plumbed into both carbys fuel bowl. When it ran rough the nav would jab the flood pump button and this would suck some fuel from the bowls andcycle back to the tank. Just a jab... when the needles and seats were new this didnt often happen but did once or twice in very rough stuff when the were nearing the end of their lives.
Wish we had the stuff Fabrs talking about for them way back then.... oops...almost 'age' slipped then..... :-\
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Three letters, man...TBI! The only way to go, and easy to boot. No float problems, no choke to stick. Depending on what computer you get, you can play with the timing, A/F ratio and some other stuff. A 350 throttle body is way cheap at the wrecker... I get complete systems (less the pump) for less than $100!!
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Can't argue with that. IMO,carbs are a thing of the past for just about everything.
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Can't argue with that. IMO,carbs are a thing of the past for just about everything.
I agree... but.... they added to the spectacle of years gone by. Vroooooom of a tuned v8 and the smell of leaking fuel...
I think our kids today really missed out on something.... hands on forgiving engines.... I had a great time as a kid... I really did.... :D
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Well aren't you a lucky little bunny ::) ::)
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I don't miss for one second having to go out when it's below 30 degrees(that'd be F degrees for those of us in the civilized world ;D) and babying the engine till it got warm enough to idle on its' own. Now all we need do is turn the key and run back inside where it's warm and toasty! Hell with remote start we don't even have to go outside.I LOVE modern stuff.
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Back in my Play in the mud days I ran Predators carbs...never a fuel slosh or bog ;D
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Predators worked fairly wwell on drag cars but I'll still take FI any day now over any carb setup.A bit more work up front and a bit of learning needs done also BUT a lot less work later on.
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Looking for a down and dirty cheap FI system? Look up ---flying toilet.
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www.ronsfuel.com (http://www.ronsfuel.com)
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Ron's has some great stuff, but DAMN! Gotaa be pricey!!!! I can build a comple TBI system for about $1000.00 for pretty much any stock motor. Doesn't really even matter size or # of cylinders.
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Wow, thats a little pricey for my blood a carb system will work fine for me ;D Personally i like the carb set ups, there simple easy to tune and pretty dang cheap. And i hate messing with computer stuff. I may only be 21 but i grew up on the old school stuff and im pretty partial to it ;D
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X2
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The rons stuff is mechanical-not computer.
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The rons stuff is mechanical-not computer.
I didnt notice that :-[ Still there way out of my price range ;D
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Ok, Its been a long while since i have got anything done. Its been kinda on the back burner to work ive been studying to promote to engineer so havent had much time. But i finally found some time to get the A-arms done and some other little stuff. It turned out to be a little wider than i wanted because of the wheels and tires i found at a unbelievable price. Ill post some pics later tonight.
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Cool,we'd love to see them.
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Here's the pics, I ended up finishing them today so they are all mocked up ready for gusseting and finish welding. I also mocked up the radiator mount and played with the steering box location.
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Just a comparison to how big these 1 1/4 heims are i had no idea when i bought them, the little one is a 3/4"
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Nice start!! Keep the info flowing!
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What front spindles are you using? Look pretty good on there...more pics, PLEASE!
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What front spindles are you using? Look pretty good on there...more pics, PLEASE!
There from a 91' 4x4 toyota. I had the whole truck sitting in my yard because thats what the rear end is out of so i saw those and robed them, they work perfect. I also stole the steering box off of it to so thats what i will be using instead a a typical steering rack.
Does anyone know where i can get the knurled part that goes onto the steering box splines? I have the stock pitman ar put dont feel to comfortable welding to cast especially on that important of a part. :o
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If you made your new part go around the whole outside of the pitman arm, heat it good and hot and weld it well, you should not have a problem. I've seen scary lifted trucks with cut and welded pitman arms (SCARY!!!!) but your could be very strong. Any other comments...I'm open for harassment. If you could get some one to mill you up a piece out of billet...umm, yeah $$$$$.
Lovin' the car by the way!! Keep the pics coming ;)
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That cast pitman is likely cast STEEL if it's cast at all. You SURE it's not a forging? If the parting line is wide(maybe 1/8" or so) and ground down it's forged. If the parting lime is narrow,unground,jagged it's cast. Either way it should be weldable.
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Spindle looks forged to me.
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I would say it was forged steel. It welded up really nicely ;D
I ended up just cutting down the old pitman and used the knurled part. I have the new pitman nearly finished. I used 3 1/16 plate for all the main stuff and am going to double up the thickness around the bolt hole. I will post pictures hopefully this weekend. Been at work for 2 days now and still have 1 left so im hoping i can get time this weekend to finish alot of stuff up. I also just recieved all my steering goodies from Dans Performance Parts. ;D More pictures and progress to come this weekend.
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Sorry for the long wait. Life has been crazy these past couple weeks but i finally found time to get some work done. The steering wheel is installed, and i also got my fuel cell in place. I flipped the upper heim on the spindle to gain some extra down travel because it bottomed out before the lower one did. I got another 305 for free, this one is a marine motor so it hardly has any time on it and is the one i will be rebuilding. Hopefully i will get my shock tabs this week and be able to get the front end rolling. Here's some pictures.
MMM, Dimple dies ;D
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Hey You got MONKEY TOES ;D
HE HE HE HE HE HE HEB HEB
Build looks great ;D
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Hey You got MONKEY TOES ;D
HE HE HE HE HE HE HEB HEB
Build looks great ;D
Ha Ha Thanks ill remember to wear shoes next time so you cant see them ;D
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I got Monkey toes too...
This is another one of those builds that makes me think of dumping all my micro and sled stuff and go AP
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Nice job!. I just gotta get a big press and some dimple dies. It just looks so much more professional and stronger too.
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BTW ,how big a press tonnage is needed for various diameters with 1/8" max 4130 normalized? Any sources on that info if you don't have it?
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I dont have that info. I can tell you though that i use a 12 ton harbor Freight press and it works good. I would suggest a little bigger one because i feel that i am pushing the limit of mine. I cant even remember where i got my die set from i only have 3/4" 1" and 1.5". I wish i could afford more because i love them, I have about $200 in just my three. The biggest i have done is 1/8" but i have seen some buggies from poly performance where they dimpled 1/4" :u I would have to have a bullet proof press room to even try that. I think that was with a big 80 ton Drake press though.
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Actually i just found an awesome deal on Dimple dies, I think i will sell mine and buy this set. Any one interested ;D
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Custom-Dimple-Dies-7pcs-1-2-2in-by-1-4s-more-avail_W0QQitemZ160332211290QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Automotive_Tools?hash=item25548b645a&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Custom-Dimple-Dies-7pcs-1-2-2in-by-1-4s-more-avail_W0QQitemZ160332211290QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Automotive_Tools?hash=item25548b645a&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14)
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Do different thicknesses of material require different dies?
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Not sure if they make "dimple dies" But you might take a look at Greenlee stuff.
They make hydraulic hole punches for electrical cabinets and other such things. They have a portable hand pump and cylidner you can take anywhere. Makes real power to force the cutting dies through all sorts of electical cabinets.
Might be easier to use it in certain areas if you cannot fit it in a Floor press or especially if you decide to add dimples later to a part thats already in the build and cannot be put in a floor press.
The Dies I have used with the Greenlee hydraulic punches are VERY similiar to all the dies I have seen used to dimple the metal. Would be easy to fit them up or have a good machinst whip up a set to fit the Greenlee punch part.
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Do different thicknesses of material require different dies?
No, It depends on the company but most company's say that they will go up to 1/8". Im sure you can do higher but im affraid to try.
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Where you at Lockedup?
I need to pick your brain ;D
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Where you at Lockedup?
I need to pick your brain ;D
Im here pick away ;D
Ive been super busy lately and havent had much time to get any work done. I have collected quite a few parts but just need to find time to install them 8) Im hoping here in the coming weeks i can get some progress on it. My goal for the first shake down run is mid Febuary, we will see if i can get it done or not.
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Actually i just found an awesome deal on Dimple dies, I think i will sell mine and buy this set. Any one interested ;D
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Custom-Dimple-Dies-7pcs-1-2-2in-by-1-4s-more-avail_W0QQitemZ160332211290QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Automotive_Tools?hash=item25548b645a&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Custom-Dimple-Dies-7pcs-1-2-2in-by-1-4s-more-avail_W0QQitemZ160332211290QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Automotive_Tools?hash=item25548b645a&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14)
I just started reding this thread again. I followed the link and see the dies are from 1018 steel. Wouldn't they wear out rather quickly?
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Guy nicknamed Shaggy on OFN in the dimple die thread said he made his out of 1018 and they are doing fine.
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http://www.offroadfabnet.com/forums/showthread.php?p=80464#post80464 (http://www.offroadfabnet.com/forums/showthread.php?p=80464#post80464)
For what its worth. The guy seems to know his stuff and does not talk a lot of BS.
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I've talked to shaggy several times. Yeah,seems like a regular guy for sure.
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Doesn't keep me from wondering about the 1018 tho. ;) I guess you cut the hole first with those dies? I was thinking more along the line of the hole being punched and dimpled in the same operation.
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They make both kinda dies. Ones that cut thier own hole ($$$$) and one you cut the hole for like they are showing in the OFN link. Still not cheap but lots cheaper than the ones that do thier own hole cutting.
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Hmmm,I wonder what alloy a hardened die set is made from? 8620?? I seem to remember me recently buying a HT oven that would be just right for a set. Hmmmmmmmmm..............................
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If yah had a CNC machine yah could start making sets for the DTS crew!
Hey wait.............
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Coincidentally,I'm sitting in Waukegan at this very moment in a motel waiting for 7:00 in the morning to pick up the saddle and table that now has new all turcite. just a short 12 hr drive home and Friday start getting it back together.
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Finally i found some time (not much) to get out and get some work done. Its not much but is some progress none the less. It hasn't been getting over the mid to upper 30's here and i havent hooked my heater in the shop up yet. I got one side mocked up and am happy with the overall outcome. Its getting a little over 24" of travel from bump to full extension and the lower heim still has a little bit of misalignment left in it. I will most likely limit it to 20-22". I ordered my rear shocks so they should be here shortly. I went with 2.0x16" foxes with ressies. Im looking for upwards of 24-26" of travel in the rear depending on the drive shaft i go with but it should be pretty easy to get that. I set everything up so that i had 8" ground clearance at full bump.
The 305 is now getting replaced with a healthy 350 ;D Im just never satified always have to have more power. I found a full 350 with a full rebuild kit for $50 so how could anyone pass that up. :o The plans are to keep the rotating assemble factory specs but go .030 or .040 over on the bore and im going to try my hand at porting and polishing my own set of "camel hump" heads. Ive done a handfull of atv heads in the past so it should be basically the same. Im shooting for a CR of no more than 10.1 so i can still run pump gas, ill eithier be decking the block or going with some flat top pistons. Im also thinking of using a high rise intake but im a little worried about the final height of the intake affecting my vision. Im going to try and make it hit the 400-450hp range 10:. Any tips tricks or good advice would be awesome ;D
Heres some pics of the progress. This is at full droop
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Im happy theres not a picture limit gg:
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Looks good I'm glad to see some progress. $50 heck worth that in scrap, more power is always good.
Only thing is the lower A-arm probably need some bracing where the bends are, you may have already thought of that.
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Lockedup
YOU ARE MY FIOOKING HERO
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Looks good I'm glad to see some progress. $50 heck worth that in scrap, more power is always good.
Only thing is the lower A-arm probably need some bracing where the bends are, you may have already thought of that.
I actually wasnt thinking about that because i am plating the whole lower arm, but thats a very good idea.
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Lockedup
YOU ARE MY FIOOKING HERO
Thanks Spec actually your my hero because your email made me relize that i need to spend some money and get this thing moving ;D
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mm: mm:
Naw man just get this fooker done
Hopefully we can meet up and toss some terrain ;D
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Heres what i got done tonight. I still need to add bracing and triangulation.
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This thing rules!!!!
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I'm LIKIN' it
I hadn't really had the time to comment,
I really like this build, It incorporates lot's from the buggy world and the automotive as well...
But I was looking at the lower front control arms and I'm thinking that a couple of added bars where they gull wing might be a good idea..I'm worried that you may fold them with out some extra support
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I think that's already been addressed. Have you been able to check bumpsteer yet?
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Funny.......
Seems I was just bitchen to Fabr that people can't read the ads on craigslist...
Guess I better shut up and learn to read...Instead of just looking ay the PIX
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Heheheheee,I think we're all guilty of that at times. Some just have a LOT of the time like that! LOL!!!
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Santa must have found my parts list ;D
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Im off to the dunes soooo progress will restart after the new years. Have a happy and safe new years hh:
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Are you done yet? i want to see this thing run already between yours and the new V-3 from colorado sand cars makes me wanna build something or buy something. And i'm trying so hard not to spend money i'm saving for a house so finish yours so i can live vicariously through you ;D
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Buy the toys you want. A house can be enjoyed at any age-many toys can't.
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lol your a bad influence on me, i was thinking about buying a teryx to suffice my needs but that seems like a waste of money too.
On another note I found a Full Floater conversion for the toyota axle if your interested. Dunno how good it is but it was something i came across when i was doing some research
http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfoscomm/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=28&products_id=94&osCsid=d5b1bfa18059a05fd080aa28d1f98b12 (http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfoscomm/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=28&products_id=94&osCsid=d5b1bfa18059a05fd080aa28d1f98b12)
Also found this one for a 9 inch http://www.9inchfloater.com/RrEndKits/RrEndKits_28_31.htm (http://www.9inchfloater.com/RrEndKits/RrEndKits_28_31.htm)
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Bad influence? Nope,I just know I've mostly lived by this---"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do
than by the ones you did. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe
harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream." ~Mark Twain ;) So far ,I'm quite happy having done so. ;D ;D
That 9" floater deal is killer if it's any good that is. Good find! How much was the toyota stuff?
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That is a smoking deal on the floater conversion.
Great work here Lockedup. I am sure you have made some progress over the last month. hint hint
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Well guys im sorry to say i havent made much or any progress from the last update. I bought a CJ7 and have been playing with getting that running and having some fun in it. But its up and running so its time to get back to the truggy. Im just collecting parts in the mean time. So to hold you guys over heres some pics of the new jeep and its first outing ;D
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the full floater for the toyota was like $669. It looks like i'm gonna have to get some tatum front hubs so i can start designing my own ;) Bet that truggy would've gone through that stuff at 50 mph lol
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Cool pics,locked. Where is that?
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Cool pics,locked. Where is that?
Thanks its and area called Florence Junction in central Arizona just above the phoenix area.
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I assume those domed structures are native American?
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I assume those domed structures are native American?
No there called the Coke ovens. There were used for some sort of mining im not sure what.
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Lockedup great work mate!! Did you work to any set of plans or is this design one of your own?....Sorry if this question has been asked before!!
Cheers,
Foggy
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Lockedup great work mate!! Did you work to any set of plans or is this design one of your own?....Sorry if this question has been asked before!!
Cheers,
Foggy
Thanks Foggy, I just went off pictures and stuff to get my ideas but then i basically just set the motor on the ground and set the seats where i thought i wanted them and went from there.
There are no new updates to speak of other than dust that has settled on it :slp
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Well you need to blow that dust off and get back into it!!! ;) I'm looking forward to seeing how it turns out! :)
Cheers,
Foggy
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Any updates? This is exactly what I wanna build! I need you to get done and make some plans for purchase so I can get started!
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This is a cool build! I think I'd like to do sumthin like that too! :D ;D
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Well guys its been nearly a year since my last update and needless to say there is no updates at this time. The Truggy has taken a major back seat, The wife has started nursing school and there has just not been the time or funds to move forward on it. It is sitting at a stand still patiently waiting for more work. I will update as soon as anything gets started again.
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You will come back to it when the time is right. Might even make it that much sweeter when it is done.
In the meantime .......
Need pictures of the nurse.... LMAO
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Hey man, look me up some time! I'm in East Mesa at Higley and University. I'm working on a couple Jeeps right now...One is a 93 YJ with all the big stuff for the rocks and the dunes and the other is a '46 CJ2a that will be fo da rocks.
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did you move from Maricopa? Higley and University is close to me.
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Is anyone ready for this build to resume?? bounce jj:
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Damn right! PICS!!!!!!!!
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Bring that shit on!! N ;D
Cheers,
Foggy
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Quit teasing us like a hottie in a mini skirt. We like pics and videos. ;D
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Well after a House remodel, Built up my CJ7, Did a frame off restoration on a 69' Bronco and to top it all off got Divorced, I am now ready to start on this project again. There's no new pics or videos :( Its still at the same stage as the last pictures, just a little more rust ;D But the good news is is that it is back in the garage and ready for further assembly. My goal is to have it running for my annual Dune trip on Thanksgiving. I played around with it today and have decided i need to lengthin my rear 4 link by about 4" and i need to truss and build up the lower arms a bit. I also started laying parts out that i have collected and it looks like i have just about everything to finish it besides shocks (Sold the ones i bought). So in the next coming weeks there should be some progress to show, that's if i have a house and garage to do it in by the end of this kick 5:
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hope it works out and can't wait to see some pics.
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I have always like the idea ever since I came across these pics. although I think your build has exceeded his!!
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So I guess there is some updates sooner than i thought ;D I ended up with a bit of free time today so i broke out the cut off wheel and the bender and went to work. I cut the old back half off because i never really liked how it looked and just started with a new idea and ran with it, I also bent up a light bar. Here's some pics. O yea and i painted the wheels black cause i just couldn't take them being silver any longer ;D
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This is one very cool build! Glad your back at it again! 8) 8) 8)
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bounce
Three years of sitting in the snow and rain and she fired up first try, after un siezing the motor of course ;D There was only about 6 gallons of water in it. It doesnt even smoke suprisingly
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uFhZipisfR0 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uFhZipisfR0)
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Thats cool! You going to rebuild it or let it ride?
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;D
Damn Lockedup....
Good to see you back
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Cool, back at it again! Just one question, how ya gonna get that motor out??
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Kind of was wondering that myself.
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Easy, cut, cuss, grind, cuss, drink, cuss, drink.. Altleast thats how I did it. Easy.
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Thats cool! You going to rebuild it or let it ride?
Im going to let it ride and see how long it lasts ;D With no smoke after what its been through its looking pretty good, worse case scenario it blows up and i have to build it anyway. The way i see it is it should be nice and loose so when i boost it i should be able to put more boost to her seeing the compression should be a bit lower.
Cool, back at it again! Just one question, how ya gonna get that motor out??
Im going to cut out the bar thats right in front of the carburetor and i had some flanges made that will slide onto the tubing so i can make it bolt in and out, I should have pictures of it tommorow.
As for progress, I am in the process of bracing the front A-arms and building new shock mounts. The rear 4 link bars have been sleeved with 1 1/2" on the uppers and 1 3/4" on the bottom. I also bent the lowers and added a truss. My FOA shocks come in tommorow 10: I ordered 2.5 coilovers with ressies, 10" for the front and 14" for the rear. I will add more pics tommorow.
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Well guys, the time has come to move on to a new project. I have lost all interest in this project and it is time to sell it. So if anyone is interested make me an offer ;D
I will put some pictures and an add in the for sale section.
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I was really wanting to see that baby up and running. :'( :'( :'(
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I was really wanting to see that baby up and running. :'( :'( :'(
Well nows your chance, you can see it run in your garage! ;D
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Its SOLD!!