I'm using the Honda front wheel drive idea from Arrowhead. I think I'd be worried about the same problem the Transworks trannies have...are they close to being the same parts?
Stay with me here for a moment.I'm looking at an 091 and thinking I can get rid of the bellhousing,machine a new front cover to replace it,flip the trans upside down and be able to run it with the engine in front mid engine style. I won't use the VW clutch or flywheel.Doable????
Let's back up a moment. If I was to do something like this it would be best to start with the strongest trans.That would be the 091. Am I correct? How much approx do they weigh? Yes use the busa trans for fast shifts and "normal gear changes" . Those that want a diff could have one and for people like me-a spool. I'm thinking along the lines of 1000-1500# buggies and 200-300HP busa engines. Would a built 091 be capable?
OR........why not a custom adapter to directly mate the busa to the 091 and pilot the input shaft off the end of the busa output shaft with an adapter?
I would guess that the Bellhousing is literally the perfect mount for the bearings needed to hold it straight. Its not that far off the front of the tranny. Bolt a flat plate to it and bore a hold dead on the shaft for the bearing housing and then add stabilization fins. But thats me.Just my gut feeling but I doubt the90* drive would take the abuse
VW trannies to hook up well built VW's (and last) are usually a good few bucks. Audi transmissions are far stronger but heavy. I am wanting to go find and Audi and measure it for length. I do not doubt an Audi tranny would hold up well to the power of a Hayabusa though. Especially if the car was light.
Built VW 091 with Weddle parts are capable of 300ft.lbs. torque input.
Not to mention that ANY 90 degree power transfer (like a ring and pinion) is MUCH more parasitic drag than gears running in parellel. This drag gets worse as speed and power climb.
I agree completely but are stronger by far.
Makes one wonder if a simple square aluminum box (budget) or a fancey case (high end) three gear box could not be made to couple directly to a bike motors output shaft then send power back to where it feeds out to the car tranny. Instead of fancy gears take VW gears right from VW as they are already made and cheap (compared to making) It sounds sooooo easy!
Others have done that with varying success. Yep,it SOUNDS easy. :)
I have heard that the street bike Vmax is a shaft drive. But the little part that converts the power from the motr to the driveshaft can be removed and it can be made into a chain drive. IF this is true you may be able to use TWO of those to get the power to the tranny but you get a lot of drag compared to a chain. They are tough as Vmax street bikes are brutally fast. But stock Hayabusa being newer and faster may still be able to put the hurt to them.
Open chains SUCK. The quest is to avoid them if at all possible. IMO a built or t'boed busa with the added weight and drag of a mid size buggy would kill them.
Just toss all the chains and gears in the dumpster and put a hydraulic pump on the motor and feed it to Hyd motors at the wheels. I always wondered about this watching HUGE bushhogs with hydraulic spun blades. They spin those massive steel discs of knives up to speed brutally quick. And they hit some dang good RPMS. Just need a big oil radiator.
And talk about parasitic losses!!!
Then I think back to a Vmax street bike or a Honda gold wing. They have a small and lightweight 90 degree drive at the rear tire. These are VERY strong as most of you know. Set the Hayabusa sideways in the chassis and feed it into one of these then into a Hondas car tranny. You would have to fab the adaptors but NO CHAINS.
I think they used a type 1 so the could flip the ring a pinion for a mid engine application
I think its a great idea. A built bus box should be able to handle 300hp and the lower torque #s from a bike motor will help not killing the trans. If I did this I would make it a rear hanger and not flip the box. I wanted to do this and was talked out of it by a couple of trans shops and a couple of forums. A bus box in standard configuration is a well proven setup. I woud love to see one of these setups.
Did you add in the secondary reduction when you did the math?? Its 2.352. (The reduction from the crank to the clutch basket). I could not find the same site that I googled at first, but this site agreed on the ratio's: http://www.dixonarchive.com/hayabusa/performance1.htm Many of the sites I checked did not include the secondary reduction, but showed the same tranny gear ratios. They are theoretically correct if all you cared about was the tranny. ;D If you didn't use the secondary reduction your numbers would be less than half. Remember this shit can't be wrong because I found it on the internet. ;DWell, 600ft /lbs at 350 rpm is only 40 hp... :) Just kiddin ya. I've been preaching this for a while over at mbn and no one but fabber has believed me. If you kept the bike in 6th but shifted the car trans then that would be better.
I also gestimated on the torque figure.... Dunno what a turbo does to it but all the horsepower numbers were at around 10K-RPM so torque would be around half of horsepower. (torque = (horsepower x 5252)/engine speed) Ok, so the stock 2008 has 178 HP at 9800 Rpm, gives us 95ft/lbs. (Peak torque was actuall at 10,200 but I am to lazy to convert it from metric) So with our reduction (2.352 X 2.615 = 6.15) (6.15 x 95 ft/lbs = 584.25 ft/lbs) And if I understand correctly you plan on running a turbo so it will be worse. ;D
Surely 600 Ft/lbs wouldn't hurt a box designed for 40 hp? ???
I know you don't need a math lesson Fabr. I just wanted to show everyone how I came up with the numbers. I even used a calculator so it must be right. ;D
Well, 600ft /lbs at 350 rpm is only 40 hp... :) Just kiddin ya. I've been preaching this for a while over at mbn and no one but fabber has believed me. If you kept the bike in 6th but shifted the car trans then that would be better.That's because of the desire to believe something that sounds too good to be true.
If the torque values were based exactly what the wheel input into the dyno, then a different wheel size or different gearing would yield different torque numbers.
I don't have any techy print on hand. A ft/lb is 1 pound acting on a lever that is 1 foot long. Is the radius of the tire is 12 inches, that is one foot, and that would be 105 lbs acting on the outside of the tire.Wrong,wrong,wrong.NOTHING is measured ever in HP.HP(something imaginary in reality) is a mathmatical function of TORQUE(something that is physically measurable), RPM and the constant 5252. HP=torque x rpm/5252Chassis dynos measure torque at the REAR wheel times RPM of the wheel divided by 5252 to get REAR WHEEL HP and TORQUE figures.Any claims of HP at the crank when measured on a CHASSIS dyno will be CALCULATED guesses at best.Wheel diameter is also included in the calcs but for simplicity we'll keep it to basics.
A dyno measures everything in hp, then converts back to ft/lbs. This is how I understand anyways. HP is basically just a power figure like watts. 746 watts is one hp. Once they have the hp numbers, it doesn't matter where you take hp from, you will just have some loss the further down the line it is. To find the torque, they basically take the hp number at a particular rpm, multiply by 5252, then divide by the engine's rpm to get torque at the engine. To find the engine rpm, if it's not hooked to a tach, they use gear ratios and the speed of the dyno to calculate backwards.
Wrong,wrong,wrong.NOTHING is measured ever in HP.HP(something imaginary in reality) is a mathmatical function of TORQUE(something that is physically measurable), RPM and the constant 5252. HP=torque x rpm/5252Chassis dynos measure torque at the REAR wheel times RPM of the wheel divided by 5252 to get REAR WHEEL HP and TORQUE figures.Any claims of HP at the crank when measured on a CHASSIS dyno will be CALCULATED guesses at best.Wheel diameter is also included in the calcs but for simplicity we'll keep it to basics.
Thank you fabr! The more posts I read the more I wondered if anyone would stop the mayhem!
Punkur...... Why do we even have transmissions and reductions at the ring and pinion? According to your idea no matter what the reduction is the torque is always the same?
There is something that is always the same (minus parisitic losses), and that is the Horsepower. It does not matter what gear your are in, the motor makes the same horsepower. As you click through the gears, the torque at the rear wheel is greatest in first, then less in second, less in third, and keeps being reduced each shift until high. That is why any vehicle accelerates fastest in first, because it has the most mechanical advantage in first gear, and by the time you get to high you have taken away the mechanical advantage, and it does not accelerate nearly as fast in high.
A motor dyno is simple because you are connected straight to the crank with no gear ratio. On the motor dyno it simply measures how much torque is being applied by the crank and at what RPM. Once these numbers are recorded, you simply use the HP formula to determine the HP based on the torque and RPM number. Horsepower = (torque x Rpm) / 5252
A chasis dyno is a little trickier because there are gear ratio's, tire size, and parasitic losses involved. I believe there are two basic styles of chasis dyno's, some measure torque applied by the tires, while others measure how fast a roller with a specific inertia is sped up. On both styles if you don't enter the correct gear ratios and tire size, you will not come up with the correct HP and torque numbers. For example on the inertia dyno, do you think if you put the vehicle in 1st gear it will accelerate the roller faster than if you put it in high...... Sure it will, but when you tell it that you had more mechanical advantage in the first gear run, it will correct back to the same numbers as the high gear run.
The saying rear wheel horsepower is really deceptive. It is really (Motor horsepower minus drivetrain parasitic losses measured at the rear wheel, and calculated based on transmission and rearend ratios and tire size) It's just easier to say rear wheel Hp.
Let me give you another Example, how much horsepower does a good Semi have? 500-600 Hp. Now lets say I have a hopped up 350 Chevy that also make 600 Hp. Which has more power? Neither, they both have 600 Hp. The difference is that the semi has 600 Hp at 1500 Rpm, and 2100Ft/lbs of torque at 1500. The Chevy has 600 Hp at 7000 Rpm giving it 450 ft/lbs at 7000 rpm. Now if you connect a tranny to the chevy with a ratio of 4.667:1 it now puts out 2100 ft/lbs at 1500 rpm at the ouput shaft, while the motor is running 7000 rpm.
We have the same situation with the VW vs Busa in front of the transaxle. Because the Busa makes its HP at 10,000 Rpm, it has less torque than the VW of the same HP, but it gets alot more gear reduction which in turn causes more torque.
Plkracer hit on the real problem which is we want to use the Busa tranny to shift with instead of the VW tranny. If you left the Busa in High, it would not have that much more torque than the VW.
The ring and Pinion in the transaxle would not be the issue in my opinion, because if the busa is in 6th, and the transaxle is in low, the torque at the ring and pinion would be similar to the busa in low and the transaxle in high. Where the rub comes in is if the busa is in low, the transaxle in high gear will see much more torque at the high gear set than the VW could ever put out becase the busa has so much reduction through the primary and tranny.
Ok..... I am just going to stop, and wait for Punkur's reply "Ignore the fact of the reduction".
:b
If you use the original bell housing of an 091 to hold a support bearing and you you are flipping th 091 upside down, you will have the issue of the bell housing now being the low point of the drivetrain. If you replace the bell housing with a plate, the input shaft which was near the top of the 091 is now near the bottom. Will that now cause the entire Busa engine to be low in comparison to the drive flanges of the 091?
Thanks.Am I right in thinking that the input shaft is2.5-3" off center?
this is the box i used in my full sized car days. Never broke one, ever! Abused them, always! I used Albins gear sets in all my boxes, that would be why Im thinking they never failed, to be truthful I only ever used modest hp, fairly low torque power plants (class rules).Can you tell me what kind of torque you had and what max rpm you had? I'm trying to decide if the busa in 6th or 5th or even 4 or 3 gear would over power the vw trans. In other words does anyone know what kind of torque a built VW engine makes or how much torque a built 091 can handle?
Can you tell me what kind of torque you had and what max rpm you had? I'm trying to decide if the busa in 6th or 5th or even 4 or 3 gear would over power the vw trans. In other words does anyone know what kind of torque a built VW engine makes or how much torque a built 091 can handle?
Thanks for the pics.I found those also last night.I assume the 091/pinto was a stock 091 and did not have weddle or albins gearsets in it.Is that correct? I think what I need to know is max torque that a built 091 is capable of.Is that a correct assumption?
busa VW
2.615--1st----------1st-3.80
1.93---2nd----------2nd-2.06
1.285-4th-----------3rd-1.26
1.043-6th-----------4th-0.82
A busa @10.5K after the 1.596 is 6579 RPM at the countershaft. Same type of rpm the VW runs at redline. Also similar rpms under all drive conditions as the VW. The VW seems like it has a nicer spread of ratios also. Actually lower by a lot that I think would improve all around drivability.
So the question I REALLY need an answer to is this-What is the real world torque at the busa countershaft if the dyno shows REAR WHEEL TORQUE of say 200 lb Ft.? Is it an actual 200 at the countershaft? I'm a bit confused on that point.
busa VW
2.615--1st----------1st-3.80
1.93---2nd----------2nd-2.06
1.285-4th-----------3rd-1.26
1.043-6th-----------4th-0.82
A busa @10.5K after the 1.596 is 6579 RPM at the countershaft. Same type of rpm the VW runs at redline. Also similar rpms under all drive conditions as the VW. The VW seems like it has a nicer spread of ratios also. Actually lower by a lot that I think would improve all around drivability.
So the question I REALLY need an answer to is this-What is the real world torque at the busa countershaft if the dyno shows REAR WHEEL TORQUE of say 200 lb Ft.? Is it an actual 200 at the countershaft? I'm a bit confused on that point.
http://www.europeancarweb.com/projectcars/0310ec_1986_porsche_944_turbo_specifcations/index.html (http://www.europeancarweb.com/projectcars/0310ec_1986_porsche_944_turbo_specifcations/index.html)
These trannys already have the nosecone built for you. Just flip the Hayabusa sideways and get a driveshaft adaptor. Get a lil driveshaft made up. It would be a tad longer though.
You can see all the specs above at the link but the car weighs 3040 pounds and the motor stock makes:
Power (SAE net): 217 bhp @ 5800 rpm
Torque (SAE net): 244 lb-ft @ 3500 rpm
Plus HUGE tires on pavement.
Just some food for thought. You be your own judge on it but share opinions with us!
Hold on fabr, I am not following your math, and where are you getting the 1.596?Sorry,engineer, but you need to redo your math.The busa PRIMARY INTERNAL reduction from the crank to the tranny is 1.596:1. You are quoting the FINAL reduction from countershaft to rear wheel .That is not relevant to this. Your thinking is correct but you've used the wrong numbers.
Just for reference the primary reduction on the busa is 2.352, and the gear ratios are as follows:
1 - 2.615 total reduction (2.352 X 2.615) = 6.15
2 - 1.937 total reduction = 4.56
3 - 1.526 TR = 3.59
4 - 1.285 TR = 3.02
5 - 1.136 TR = 2.67
6 - 1.043 TR = 2.45
So with the Busa at 10,500 RPM the output shaft speed would be:
1 - 10,500/6.15 = 1,707 RPM
2 - 2,302 RPM
3 - 2,925 RPM
4 - 3,477 RPM
5 - 3,933 RPM
6 - 4,286 RPM
Lets just say your Turbo busa makes 300Hp @ 10,500, and it also peaks torque there. Its torque will be (torque = (horsepower x 5252)/engine speed) 150 ft/lbs at the crank. If we look at it in 6th gear at the countershaft it will be 150ft/lbs x 2.45 = 367.5 ft/lbs. That is why busas tear the crap out of things.....
If we look at a stocker 178Hp = 89ft/lbs at the countershaft = 218 ft/lbs, at 4,286 RPM.
If looks like if you buy aftermarket gears for the 091 you can get anything but lets run the numbers so see what we will have in 4th with your ratio of .82, and a 4.57 ring and pinion.
4,286 RPM / (.82 x 4.57) = 1144 RPM at the CV flange
Add a 31" tall 1300 plus.....
31in x 3.141519 = 97" rollout x 1144= 110968inches/minute divide by 12 for feet, divide by 5280 for miles, multiply x 60 for hours instead of minutes = 105 miles per hour.
Looks about right. When will it be done? I want to see how it works. gg:
Why would they quote the RPM at the crank, and the torque at the countershaft?Many sources give the primary reduction. 1.596 is correct for all busas.
I could be wrong about the primary reduction. Where did you find your numbers? If you are correct then is the 1.043 6th gear, the total reduction from the crankshaft? That would mean that it is overdriven in the tranny to almost eliminate the primary reduction?
Reality check time... What does an 091 with aftermarket gears cost?3-4K
The countershaft rpm would be approx 6600 rpm input to the 091.That would make a top speed of 101.6. You sure you're an engineer? Just kidding! ;D
OK ,this is what I've come up with using Albin R&P(5.43:1) and Albin 3rd(1.5:1) and 4th(1.0:1). Assuming the busa is capable of turning 10500 in each gear which makes countershaft =6862 RPM with busa in (1.043:1)6thgear. Use 31" tires.Assume no tire slip in sand.
1st-3.80:1=30.66 MPH
2nd-2.06:1=56.58 MPH
3rd-1.50:1=77.69 MPH
4th-1.0:1=116.54MPH
Look better? Albins makes a boatload of 3rd and 4th gear ratios.I'm open to suggestions on the ratios for 3rd and 4th.
One problem I see with this the way you are talking is you will never shift a 091 as fast (or easy) as you can shift the Hayabusa motor. Shifting any VW style tranny is usuallays the buggies (with it) biggest downfall if the tranny can deal with the raw power.Yes you are correct about it not shifting like a MC dog style tranny for sure but unless you're racing short course I don't see that as a problem. I'm gonna make a call to albins tomorrow or the next day to see if they offer dog style gearsets for the 091. Their website hints that may be a possibility but I can't tell for sure. With all the gearsets they have I could do some real study and come up with a great set of ratios for first through 4th that would compliment the busa torque curve nicely.
I think generally you could get away with using the busa tranny for shifting through all the gears. But if you decide to do a holeshot, or are going to be really leaning on it at slow speeds, you would be better to shift the busa to 5th or 6th, and shift with the 091 to keep from hurting anything. The only problem will be remembering what gear everyone is in, and where to mount both shifters so that it is convenient.Yeah I've been thinking along the same line but for the sake of this discussion I've kept it to the vw being the primary trans and the busa being the underdrive unit. I think I KNOW it will work that way and if so I'd move on to seeing what it would take using the busa tranny as the primary and the 091 as the underdrive as testing continued.
My only objection to the plan is that busa coupler thing - ok, I am just givin you crap - you are a smart dude, you will figure it out.
But, just a question. When I got my car, I really thought long and hard about a Busa, still like them, etc, but at what point do you say - hey I have a 091, why not just stick in a 2.0 or 2.5 with turbo or two? At a certain point, this is all "power to weight" and if you can get that at 2.0 liters without the coupler issues, etc, why fight convention?
This is likly going to spark a debate - yes gentlemen, a debate, not a brawl please....? cc:
Mast... I see a problem... a big one.....Speak up.
There's just a real difference in a T'boed busa (or any superbike) and an auto powerplant.2 totally different animals. Different feel. It's one of those ford vs chevy things.No real reason other than preference.I personally like pissing off the V6-V8 guys with a "little ol'motor sickle" when I run up beside them and wave as I usually go by.
Nice!! A bit pricey, but very nice, long axles extra travel. SweetI'm not interested in cheap.I'm interested in maximizing as best I can what I build while trying something "off the beaten path".
where as I haven't personally had a t'boed busa rail, I have driven one. I have however had a few non t'boed bike powerplants and now a 3800 series II v-6 rail. I can say when I sell the v-6 rail I'm going back to a mini. probably a t'boed zx14r next. I do love the tq from the v-6 and the grunt factor is unmatched by a bike motor but the throttle response, acceleration, in line shift, mid engine stability, sound, cost and many more on the list, can't be beat. the bikes win in my book. sorry to the car guys but I will be going back.
I've built a lot of bus trannies for rotary motors and they don't like sustained high RPMs.The countershaft rpm is approx the same as any auto motive engine due to the 1.596 internal reduction before the busa trans. Can't speak of the bearings.Yes I've been told about the drainback holes.Thanks for the info.
I hope Don isn't using the Chinese mainshaft bearings. In the bottom on either side there are holes between the transmission section and the diff section to let oil back and forth.
When the trans is mounted upside down it is a good idea to drill some in what is now the bottom. At least 1/2 inch
What makes you think there'll be a phone call? 9: 9: 9: 9: ;D
I was too busy today to get DOnsbusbox a call today but I did have time to determine tonight that I will use the 091 flipped on its' back in a mid engine setup.Doing so though makes it necessary to go to the dreaded uj axles I am not fond of but if that's what I have to do it's what I have to do. WHat are your preferences in shafts?
It does have the super diff and I don't really doubt it has the weddle stuff in it but the crud pisses me off! And due to the crud and lack of concern for a clean reassembly it puts the seed of doubt in a persons mind about the quality of the unit for sure.
What are the nonplunging cv's. I hate to admit it but I've not paid them much attantion.What's available and how strong are they.I need about 34-35 degrees or so
A buick engine? I have one in my car. I'm betting you have the supercharged version?
Front wheel drive stuff.I think bug knows of them and probably some others here also.
So what ones bolt to a 930 flange?
I can't say I know of any on foreign or domestic front wheel drive cars but I have seen a few on the rear of bmw's that might, like the z3 and such. I don't know if you would get the angle out of them though. surely someone makes a drive flange for the 934's onto a bus transaxle by now.Already have 930 midboards.
why not try something like thisYes they'd work but they are very heavy.1/2 of their weight would be counted as unsprung.Not good IMO. Don't want/feel the need for the 2 piece slipshaft "fuse" on those either.
I was too busy today to get DOnsbusbox a call today but I did have time to determine tonight that I will use the 091 flipped on its' back in a mid engine setup.Doing so though makes it necessary to go to the dreaded uj axles I am not fond of but if that's what I have to do it's what I have to do. WHat are your preferences in shafts?
Mastr,
Long as this is shaping up to be the ultimate build, how about trying some of these and getting stupiiiioooood long travel for your buggy?
http://www.cornay.com/products.cfm (http://www.cornay.com/products.cfm)
There is behind the scenes stuff coming on this setup.Hope to have info to post by mid -end of next week. Getting a lot of help from a site member. 8) very 8)
MMMMMM....... Those were fun. ;)thanksgiving maybe, Lmao.. Did you make him drive over and pick them up?
I am ready for a test ride. Snake Hunt or Easter? :t :t :t
I KNOW where it's at. ;D I was just wondering the travel time to LS.I'm guessing about the same as for me.
FedEx!! Gotta love 'em! Hubs and spiders showed up today. I bought 17 2'x4' 3 tier shelf units on casters on Purplewave auction today .Will pick them up in Wichita later this week if the roads clear. I'll make a stop at The Yard Store to get the aluminum billet ,make a quick trip to engineer and cases should be coming back soon after that. Right engineer? ;D ;D ;D
Pic of the curved jaws. The hubs are ready for broaching.
Teaser pics.This is the custom Lovejoy style coupler hubs Engineer (http://dtsfab.com/index/index.php?action=profile;u=125) did for me.These are the easy part.More to come later,hopefully sooner.
Gene since you already have a buggy with an inline mounted busa and a POS TW unit this should be of real interest to you.Could be the end of your troubles.
The suspense is killing me! LOL!!
Think he will be mad? I put it right where you can see it! ;)
If you wanted him mad I would have wrote:
MBN.NET
LOL Fabr is prob at home, and his internet connection sucks so he probably can't see the pictures. And I don't want to take the time to make them smaller.Yeah it would be a bunch faster at 600X 450 or so!!! I might as well be trying to download video at the size you're posting!!!LOL!! Sheesh!
You sorry ass mofo's!! ;D ;D On the next one I want Cedar Bluff Offroad on it also.I like the dtsfab.com shit! 8) If MBN was put on it I'd melt the fxxker down and burn mbn into engineers ass with a branding iron!!!
Keep wondering bugboy!
;D ;D ;DHehehe,no hurry at all but I do feel like a little kid waiting for Santa. ;D ;D ;D
You sorry ass mofo's!! ;D ;D On the next one I want Cedar Bluff Offroad on it also.I like the dtsfab.com shit! 8) If MBN was put on it I'd melt the fxxker down and burn mbn into engineers ass with a branding iron!!!
Stupid question - are the jaws consumable?
OH!!!,the DTSFAB.COM thing will be quite fun posting pics of that at "the other site".LOL!!!!!! Since they see fit to censor any mention of dtsfab over there it'll be fun to see what BS they come up with to justify not allowing posting of this. I guess we're just a step above that place since we don't censor THEIR site being mentioned here.What are they afraid of? MAYBE were taking away a few members but why worry about a little ol' start up site like ours to the point of not allowing our site to be mentioned? LOL!!! WE know why! THIS is a great site thanks to the members we have.Thanks guys!!!!
Stupid question - are the jaws consumable?
Well Dorothy, this little fella in the Land of Oz (no not the Wizard...) is very very impressed.... Beautiful work guys, both from a design view and execution view.Thank you very much from both of us. We both run businesses,married,me no kids don't know about engineer tho.There's other interests???????? Oh! I used to race 28-30 weekends a year.LOL!!! Now I just build and design crap.
Credit to you both.
One question, running a business? Married? Other interests?
Where do you find the time for this all???
Im struggling to run a business, bring up kids, play golf, fish, and finsish my damn final drive.... frustrating!
I understand the use of the lovejoy (nice by the way) but, the offset says to me "must be a chain or maybe a gear drive to the input shaft of the 091? Absolutely B. E. A. utiful work guys! I'm so jealous of people who have the tooling AND the ability to use it...I feel like such a hack ;)Congrats you are correct! Silent chain and sprockets connect CS/CJ lovejoy to custom 091 input shaft.
roller.no need for anything else
Hey nice work. That is done in Alibre right? I really like that program. It is pretty easy to learn. Cool.
Is there a seal that needs installed? I see a bearing in there. ;D
NOPE! It runs open and exposed. ;D . Yes,there is a big ol' seal
So are you supposed to mount on the outer circle of bolts or is the plate with the integral caliper mount supposed to weld onto the trailing arm or other outer suspension attachments?
All attachments weld or otherwise attach to the steel plate.It's 3/8" 4130. I'm likely going to make a new one that allows a-arm mounting points where needed with a minimum of welding.More later after I cad them up.
Are you planning to use heims or bushings on the outer end of the A-arm?
Seriously I've considered both. Thoughts anyone???
BTW those spindles look very nice! Are they getting welded in this weekend?
They would but my upright pieces missed UPS by one day.Won't have them tilll Monday from tracking info. :'(
front hub
Kudos for the pictures!! Now to work on the explanation! Your killing me with details here. ;DWHat details????? Don't you know a pic isa worth a thousand words????? ;D ;D ;D All in good time ,grasshoppa!. The waterjet stuff will be here later today.I'lll be welding them up as soon as they show. A few more pics will come forth then. ;)
I think I can easily cut 5+ #'s from the midboards.
I gotta get a better freekin camera. This shit sux!
Is there a problem with HRPO?Maybe it was just me.It was 100% my call to use it and I blame no one but myself. I have always used 4130 and love the way it TIGs up.. I had an aligator skin like scale form on the surface of the HRPO that had to be bead blasted off after welding and it had a tendency towards porosity in places likely due to the forming scale. They will be fine but I'll go back to moly in the future.
9.11 and 5.15 Gear-One caliper. Another thing I won't do again.
Dunno know.It's in the shop.
Make that 40 pounds of chips......
Make that 40 pounds of chips......Damn !!! man!!!! Don't you ever sleep at night? LOL!!!
WAKE UP FABR!!
I thought you wanted to get this thing done. ;D
To bad I don't work this hard on my own stuff. hehe I tired now. Update soon.
We always remove the mill scale BEFORE welding.........
So do I! I don't know what it was but after welding a couple of the pieces looked like aligator skin. It was scale allright but blasting usually removes it . Must have been some extra layer or something.I dunno
Your making good progress. How long till the front is rolling?? decided on shocks yet?
Front will be rolling in a couple of weeks. Need to get the shocks ordered.
As to the lightening stuff, that is for next winter...... Always need something to look forward to. ;D
Ok, I'll throw you a bone. 4 hours ago I had a 50 pound billet of aluminum in the mill. Now I have 35 pounds of chips. 8)
For those who arent familliar with gas terms,I use straight argon.
He's talking about 95% argon and 5% co2...
Costs a little more but you end up with a much cleaner weld, plus it allows the weld to ''self clean''
Another beneifit is ''Gas quality'' is closer regulated...C-25 can be as much as 40% CO2...Ever notice the color of welds from tank to tank, and between company to company?
For those who arent familliar with gas terms,
He's talking about 95% argon and 5% co2...
Costs a little more but you end up with a much cleaner weld, plus it allows the weld to ''self clean''
Another beneifit is ''Gas quality'' is closer regulated...C-25 can be as much as 40% CO2...Ever notice the color of welds from tank to tank, and between company to company?
So how are you planning on sealing the half together?
I dunno, I suggested an O-ring groove, but Mastr has a plan. ;D
Power steering unit.
Fabr's Shop Bar
Power steering unit.
Beautiful, love the interior steel walls.::) Yeah,I know what you mean.This is the "clean" 1/2 of the shop tho. ;D
Keep it clean. ;D
Tell us about the electric power steering. Brand/dealer? Is that the 2K+ unit?
Complete with Bartender I see...... But no customers yet!
I see in the pics you are running an hanging pedal set.
do you pre-fer the hanging pedals over the floor mounts?
have you used both style's?
if so does the hanging ones provide more leverage ?
the reason I ask is because I am having an issue with to stiff of a clutch. I know that I have a v-6 powerplant but I either need more leverage or a bigger slave cylinder , I think I have the biggest slave now but not sure yet. my rail is still raw so I can make changes to it. I am running the jamar floor mounts now 11/16" & 7/8" brake.
I see in the pics you are running an hanging pedal set.
do you pre-fer the hanging pedals over the floor mounts?
Last car was floor.I didn't really like the feel of the pedal there.So I decided to try hangers.
have you used both style's?
if so does the hanging ones provide more leverage ?Leverage,IMO no but depending on seat height in relation to pedal height might make a difference in "feel".
the reason I ask is because I am having an issue with to stiff of a clutch. I know that I have a v-6 powerplant but I either need more leverage or a bigger slave cylinder , I think I have the biggest slave now but not sure yet. my rail is still raw so I can make changes to it. I am running the jamar floor mounts now 11/16" & 7/8" brake.
Use a smaller master then or increase the leverage ratio of the clutch arm..
So how are you getting the steering colum down to the P/S unit?2 U joints and a shaft. Pretty standard fare.
OK?
Ya know, a side shift tranny might not be a bad way to go on something like that.Yeah I know BUT for now this is what I have.
Faber that is looking sweet.Thanks. Pieces are waterjet cut. Sure makes stuff easy!
Sure makes stuff easy!
Upper rear H Arm. Front view and rear view on jig.Not done so any suggestions are welcome.
Forgot to mention ,it is 31.5" from heim C/L to heim C/L. 16.125 spread on frame end and 5.125 spread on wheel end.
Forgot to mention ,it is 31.5" from heim C/L to heim C/L. 16.125 spread on frame end and 5.125 spread on wheel end.
it's moly. don't need hydrogen embrittlement.
Post bake to get rid of the hydrogen, no problems.......
Sing it with me: h b c d e f g, a i j k l-m-n-o-p ......
On the top, they are "R" arms or "B" arms and the bottom is a "W" arm or "Pretzel" arm?
Talk about OVERKILL! (compared to the upright)
Nice overkill BTW.... as they say... "That's overkill, but you can never have too much overkill!"
;D
seriously though, what's "wrong" with a 1:1 ratio?
Say what? How badly can you butcher the alphabet?
The pretzel arm is a real thing. Build em too light and they will morph into one.
It's still nailed down.Likely pull those nails tomorrow nite tho.Yes the rear arms are parallel. No camber gain.Looking for max travel .Any camber gain will reduce travel significantly. If this car was primarily for dirt/desert I'd likely have built in some camber gain and sacraficed a bit of travel. But since this will see mostly sand I feel I'm good. The front is right off Rorty's plans for the R16. A decision I may regret but.....................who knows. Got some spacers/bushings to make so I'll be able to give you some front camber pics soon.
. No camber gain.Looking for max travel .Any camber gain will reduce travel significantly. .
That is eactly why I want to see it. ;DNo rake. I'll let you know the curves as soon as I can.
Can You explain to this dumbarse why this is so? :-X
Can You explain to this dumbarse why this is so? :-Xthink about it this way:droop is limited by the misalignment angle of the cv.A 930 is OK at 25*. If 2-3 degrees is taken up with camber gain in droop you lose 2-3 degrees droop travel.
If the wheel goes into positive camber as it is dropping to full extension (droop), that means that the top of the tire is leaning in.
Please correct me if I am wrong here. But with the tire leaning out from the frame (at the top of the tire) its positive so if it leaned out or positive at the bottom that would allow more travel in droop.
Thats why you want it to go negative at the top of its travel as well ( beside tire roll) as if its negative at the top it leans in and is less angle on the CV.
But a suspension that creates negative camber at the top usually does it at the bottom (droop) and thats where it takes the angle up with the tire leaning IN (negative) as the tire apporaches its lowest point.
If the wheel goes into positive camber as it is dropping to full extension (droop), that means that the top of the tire is leaning in. When you look at the axle from the rear, at full droop, the axle is coming down from the inner CV to the outer CV, and it turns an angle into the stub shaft. This is where maximum droop is determined, because maximum angle on the CV is reached here.
Now if you add 3 degrees of camber, then that camber adds to the angle between the stub shaft and the axle.
So if the last 3 degrees, from 22deg to 25deg represents 1.5" of wheel travel, then you won't get that last 1.5 inch because 25 degrees that the outer CV see's actually occurs then the axle is at 22 degrees.
Let me start again. If you have 3 degrees of camber, then the stub shaft (wheel) and the transmission shafts are not parallel, so the outer CV is seeing an additional 3 deg that the inner is not. So the outer will be at 25 deg when the inner is at 22.
???
If I haven't explained it just say so and I will draw a picture. ;D
H Arms done but not complete.LOL!!!!! Wheel is one of the Douglas 2" backset. I will be replacing them with Champions of I THINK 6.5" backset. I know I can use 5.5". Gotta do a bit of checking.
It gets a brace(likely plated) and tied together when shock mount location is pinned down.
Midboard plates welded up. 3/8" HRPO courtesy of Rick s and 3/16 4130 tabs keyed and welded. I'm no pro welder but I can daub a bit of metal in place.
The rollover jig also raises and lowers a total of 40" . Puts you in a perfectweldposition 90% of the time. I love the thing!
After looking at T8er's you have a lot of tubes to add for the front shock mounts.Yep and those curved tubes don't go back near that far.They are part of the dash structure when done. I can't get back far enough for a side view.
What I don't get is those curved tubes that make it a mofo to throw your leg in or out of the cage! They conveniently run back to about the front of the seat.
It is good to see it on its wheels though.
Well take some more pictures....... Your confusing us!That's not too hard really now is it? ii: ii: ii: mm: mm: ;D ;D
Well.I took it off the rollover to be able to cycle suspension and nail down shock locations. pics shoe full droop front and raer and ride height front.
I hope you're not being too optimistic!
I like a fat ass.Hehehe
I call my 110# wife fatass.
She'd rather be called bitch tho. No kidding.She bought a front tag that says bitch.Go figure.
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D Sounds like she is not easily offended. That is a good thing! ;DShe TOLD you that Bitch is her name when we were there! I guess you didn't believe her huh?
I think I will just stick to using her name.....
I have very little patience.
I have very little patience.
Hmmmm... now why does this comment not surprise me at all?We won't go into that! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Anyone got any ideas as to the reason for this?
Im clueless ;D ;D ;D ;) ;)
I love the "redneck" jack stands! CMU's for the win! :laugh:I own a lumber yard. What can I say? LOL!!!!!! heheheheehee . AND they just happen to be the exact height for the car at full droop with ground clearance. 22.875" or within 1/8" of perfect.. 22" travel front/20" rear travel and 3" ground clearance.
Car looks great...have you sent any pictures to Bob to cheese him off on how far you deviated from his plans? ;D
Yeah I'm really happy with the radiator. Thanks for the tip on where to get.
Thanks for the compliment. It's finally moving right along. Damn I've been BUSY so it's been a bit of a struggle tho. I'm going to pick your brain (as much as the alcohol will allow that is) about your t'bo setup at LS you know! I'm going to need your HP to push this thing! LOL!!
Nice work Master. What's next? Power steering electric window's and air condishing? ;D ;D ;DLOL!!!! Thanks for the compliment. It ALREADY has power steering in it! And as for air conditioning I will use an ice based helmet cooler for the long hot runs. Same as a helmet pumper but with a heat exchanger in line. You may have seen them. I have a place under the dash all set up for that unit.
Not sure if you just haven't added it yet but that front bumper thing needs some support in the middle where the load is
going to be applied. I would tie the front shock mount bulkhead into the front upper a-arm mount with a tube as well. I
like the dash. If you did the rack mount as shown in the drawings, I would guset that plate towards the back with some
simple triangles. Did you brace the backside of the spindle spud?
Pics of polyurethane minimal expanding foam in place on panel setting up waiting to be rough shaped. I use plain old PU foam that you get from the hardware store. i do not use the extension tube.Flatten the tip of the screw on nozzle to make a small fan spray. Move quickly and apply as evenly as you can.Pretty damn hard to do but with a bit of practice you'll get it. DO NOT eff with it till it has set up or you may make it fall like a souffle'. LOL!!! NO,REALLY! This side took 5 cans total. After I get it to rough shape it gets a load of Bondo and a ton of work. I hate this part.
so is Engineer ready to ship you your parts?
And you reckon us Aussies are hard to understand... ::)
:( :( :( Hay down, Feed to Cut, Ground to work, and A small uptick in my day job are hurting progress. :(
Oh and by the way Master looks good mate, I've never had the confidence to have a go at fiber glass..
I agree, but for me its confidence, patience, and the itchyness that stop me.Ya not wrong that shit drives me NUTS scratching the crap outa ya self all bloody day, it enough to give Gomer piles.. ::) ;D
:( :( :( Hay down, Feed to Cut,
Second cut?
Is the hay and alfalfa in the barn yet???Yup.
inSINuating would be right.
So I assume you did the black one..... What made the color? Is the color there to stay? Did you check the hardness with a file?Yes ,I did the black color when carburizing. It is not scale. It is a very thin layer of what I can only describe as pure excess carbon(?) that gathers on the surface of the part and is not absorbed into the case. On the test pieces I found it to be no more than .00025 thick as the shaft was only .0005 smaller after glass beading it off of test pieces. It appears like a black phosphate coating but ,of course, it isn't but it does look that way. I'm thinging of leaving it on as if it really is just carbon it should act as a dry lube of sorts and I think it will also be rust resistant. Maybe not tho. LOL! It beads off easily but is fairly tough to abrasion. Not as tough as black phosphate but it will absorb oil and retain it somewhat.similar to BP coatings.
I have an uncle that loves to check parts to see how hard they are with a file. The more expensive the part the better. :P
Why are you using height offset zero for tool 1? thats a good way to screw yourself.........I didn't,buddy does his stuff that way.I have no idea of his setup or reasonings other than what he showed me for code. I assume he has taken a different strategy than you would to machine setup.
Also notice you only have one feed rate in there. Does your programm not have feed rate optimization?
Judging be the Z heights, your roughing a fair amount of stock off the top of the part............
Just curious,why would a person ever use a post that is not machine specific BDKW1?
Thanks for the info. As everyone here knows,I know very little of this stuff and am just beginning to scratch the surface of the CNC world. For myself I am learning and trying to use AlibreCAM. All I've accomplished so far is CAMming one side of the cover that engineer made for me. Probably crash something if I tried to run it! rofl It did get me what looked like good tool paths. I'm thinking of just setting up a block of poplar to run a test run with. What ya think?
Wasn't sure what CAD programm you were using and if it had a specific Fadal post. Most CAD programms come with a generic post you can customize to your liking. Memory ain't what it used to be........
Anybody using Mastercamm and using the Haas post can thank (or curse rofl ) Me for that. I did the original one from their generic Fanuc post processor back in the early 90's. The Mastercamm rep borrowed it and they start including it in the package.........
30K lines of code........ I remember when we had to punch them in to a paper tape buy hand........ Things like sub programms and incremental jumps were your friends back then to keep programms short enough to fit in the machines memory.
The reason I liked to keep the H and D offsets the same as the tool # is it makes it easier to keep track of when you need to make changes. You might know it's like that, but the guy running the machine that day might not. Again, probably won't apply too you.
Is M99 in your machine a pause? It is program end in my machine although I change it to M30. If I run in "memory mode", The M99 tells my machine to go back and start at the top of the program without pause. M30 alters that and just ends it point blank. I use M6 for a pause. Just curious.
http://www.fadalcnc.com/Tech_files/Quick%20Reference/Program_Codes.pdf (http://www.fadalcnc.com/Tech_files/Quick%20Reference/Program_Codes.pdf)
It's going on my wall. Fadal specific.I understand some of it varies in a few places from others?
I believe M31 is pause in a Hass, requires a hit of the cycle start button to continue in the program.
M00......
G13, thats circular pocket correct?
If you learned G-code by punching it in the crap the post processor spits out will make your skin crawl.
A good looking programm would start out like this.
T1M6 (.750 2 flute carbide endmill 1.5 flute length)
G0G40G90X5.725Y-6.530S10000M3
G43Z.05H1D1M8
G1Z-.500F75.
G41X4.5F125.
.............
Stand back and let the chips fly..........
Oh, I had to machine some MDF parts once. Took several months to get all that damn sawdust off the machine.........
Thanx.
This is what I'm talking about. http://www.fadalcnc.com/Calmotion.htm
You'd be suprised how many good ideas you have AFTER you hit the go button. ;D ;D ;D
I feel like Snoopy doing the nose in the air dance!
no with the 4 gears in the bus tranny you should be able to put it into 1st, dump the clutch and watch it flip over backwards! :o ;D I hope not but a wheelie bar might not be a bad thing to make and take!Ultimately it will be interesting to see if the 091 can handle the busa in low gears and the 091 in first or second. I have my doubts but ya never know till ya try I always say.
You'll need custom ratios for 3 and 4 or it will be too high geared. No way around it without building the adapter with something other than a 1:1 ratio. It could be relatively easily done but you would be increasing the input torque to the 091 trans. I'm not sure at this point it would be the thing to do especially with the stock gears, I'm game if you are though.
When I have my FNR done I will be looking to select a coule people willing to purchase one at cost to help with testing. DS, you will be one! ;D
ya that's no joke! I asked trans man if the prices went up some and how much would an all out built trans with all weddle internals and gear carrier housing and nose cone cost. he said $4200 now only charging $500 for labor. I thought was charging $3500 for the all out built weddle 091's. I asked trans man what ways could he have cut corners to get it down there and still turn a profit. trans man had a few ideas and a guy never stops to think about it but all the little parts do add some strength and reliability as well and they do add up pretty fast!One of easies ways for him to cut his costs would be to reused bearings and/or installing new Chinese bearings. Instead of installing new German and Weddle racing bearings !!!!!!
If the bearings are good there are several good reasons to reuse them. All new bearings,no matter how high quality, will wear mate after initial use/break in and loosen up a bit. Used bearings tho will not do so and will remain as set up. just one reason to reuse.The problem with reusing OEM bearings is that they have plastic cages had become hard and brittle over time from heat. When you install better component in the transaxle and start shock loading them, those cages can break and the bearings will fail. Taking out those expensive parts, the risk is not worth it in my opinion ! .
In that case ,yes,I agree. Plastic cages are not the best and many plastics do age poorly. Too bad there wasn't PEEK plastic in those days. Still a good set of used bearings with steel cages would be my choice if available.I agree with you on that
That aluminum has a cool looking grain to it! roflThat'd be poplar aluminum. Pretty rare stuff.
Congrats on your first cut!
Well,I FINALLY made SOMETHING on the VMC.OK ,hold down the laughter! rofl rofl rofl It's not much but if you started from knowing nothing at all about cnc machines nor ever having run one to rebuilding the damn thing,diagnosing the electrical/electronics issues to learning how to run the thing with no help I must say WHEW!!!!!!! I'm fricken happy as hell to get this simple little thing done. Look out Aluminum ,here I come! rofl rofl
I use aluminum jaws just like that then wedge a piece betwen them raised at the front to take all the "lift" out of the moving jaw, then cut a notch out of the front and rear jaw to hold your material.
Lift? Kurts have the angle lock ball inside. They have almost as much force pushing down on the movable jaw as they do clamping force. They do not lift unless your clamping something that's not parallel.
How often do you take them apart and clean them? If there packed full of chips and the ball is rusted in place your going to have issues. We take them apart and clean/grease them once a week. I have measured ours with zero lift. You have to have the adjusting screw in the back cranked down pretty good too, We torque these to keep everything consistent. We also use torque wrench's on the vice on tight tolerance jobs to keep everything consistent. +-.0005 all day long. Easy money. +-.00002 takes a little more effort.......
Seems to be a bit of disagreement . Sort of like asking 3 lawyers a question and getting 4 opinions. LOL!!!!
Finally after 50 pages its coming together. That trans is a lot shorter from the cv to front than I had thought. So your going to be missing from work next couple weeks to get that thing ready.
Finally after 50 pages its coming together. That trans is a lot shorter from the cv to front than I had thought. So your going to be missing from work next couple weeks to get that thing ready.Well after you lop off the stock differential cover/bellhousing it loses some length and a bunch of weight. Of course it gains the weight back with the adapter.
Is the motor connected directly to the trans? Will this cause some flexing under power? Will it need extra support to keep it rigid? Just questions that I have thought about.Wait for the pics. ;D
That is some nice work Master. Better get ready to do some production work. If en that bus tran's works out you will be selling a few of them adapter's.A well built 091 trans will hold up and i see him selling a few adapters 8) 8) 8)
A well built 091 trans will hold up and i see him selling a few adapters 8) 8) 8)
Not everyone wants/needs blown.
I have a few questions on this set up, i was going through this thread and a thought had came to me. What kinda HP and torque can this set up handle? What did the gears and chain cost if you don't me asking? I've been thinking of something like this for a home made v-drive type unit, and i just realized you had one just had to change a few things around ;DWElllllll,unlike some people in this sport, I don't make claims of that sort before substantial testing is done. At least not at this point in time. I would tho give you a best guess answer. What I FEEL it will handle is based on a lot of factors and a lot of assumptions other than HP/Tq. I also did some real world testing of the chain that was very promising and apparently without issues before a fire cut that testing short. Tell me more of your setup and maybe I can give you a "best guess" answer. Also , the choice of using gears or sprockets/chain depends on needed shaft rotation. WIth chain,of course you get same output shaft rotation as the input shaft. With gears you can get same or different rotation. Space and other factors also come into play.
NA motors suck!
Not everyone wants/needs blown.
LMAO LMAO LMAO rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO
I call bullshit.
When I said NA motors suck, I meant it. Litteraly!
I really,really,really need a different camera. Sheesh,these suck. eyes Notice anything different in the throttle body area?
Yes, you got plastic stuff in there plugging the holes - that aint gonna work out too well. Might consider moving that stuff out of the way........I KNEW there was something weird about it...........................................................
No charge this time, but next time...........
Hahn Port fueler ;);) ;) I've read all over the place about how hard the thing is to install. BS.Easy as 1,2,3. The adapters fit perfectly and if you follow the instructions(instructions? I don't need no damn instructions) they nearly fall in place. Very nice fit and finish.
Damn!!! :o :o :o That dash looks awsome!!! Great work fabr !Thanks for the compliment. I just noticed the key switch wasn't in place. It DOES fit correctly though when fully in place.
Very nice looking dash....nice and smooth!
But
Does it have to be black? :D
There's only one thing missing.......
Ya ;D
But it's still missing something.....
Ya ;D
But it's still missing something.....
Glad they made it... You know Fabr... I made that cool ass jig for forming a 3" tube to that output flange on my other turbo build. You interested in one?Wasn't that for a T3 flange? The GT25 uses a T25 flange. Look the same but smaller. I'm using 2.5" exhaust also.
Ill post a link
Hi tech micro porous stuff.Actually removes any neeed for a fan.bs1 bs1 bs1 bs1 bs1 bs1 bs1 bs1 bs1 bs1 bs1 bs1 bs1 bs1 bs1 bs1 bs1 bs1 bs1 bs1 bs1 LOL rofl rofl rofl rofl Lookin good master!
Damn Master, it only took me 6 pages to build my car from scratch. Well I guess you are ONLY on page 58. :o You need to hurry up. I want to see this thing run already!You can't rush perfection 8) 8) 8)
You can't rush perfection 8) 8) 8)rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl What ya can't,it seems,rush is a new design FNR. eyes eyes LMAO LMAO It's really coming together now though. Another 50 pages and I'm done. rofl rofl rofl rofl
Damn Master, it only took me 6 pages to build my car from scratch. Well I guess you are ONLY on page 58. :o You need to hurry up. I want to see this thing run already!Just goes to show I'm more full of BS than you are! ;D ;D ;D ;D You aren't the only one wanting to see this thing run! ;D ;D ;D ;D
Wow! That is a lot of gas.... Probably at least 5-6 hours runtime? In fact it is probably just enough that you will forget that you ever have to fill it and run out. kick rofl hehe j/krofl That's why ALL the busa instrumentation works. That means I have a fuel gauge. According to enemy he's getting about 15 MPG if I recall what he said correctly. That'd be 225 miles range. ;) ;D ;D
Is that exhaust finished?
So the Blow off valve is on the intake side? I always thought they had them tied into the exhaust to dump the charge feeding the turbo. So this blow off valve will dump the pressure when you close the throttle? What is it activated by? I need a schematic. ;D Or I will just have to come see it. ;DThat's the wastegate.Boost pressure.I need to run fuel lines and brake lines. Tear it all apart to final weld a few things and reassemble. So it's pretty soon now.Turbo has frame members supporting it and yes the high position accomplishes preventing any drainback,aka smoke on hills,issues and it gets a nice airflow to help with heat.This turbo is also water cooled.
What is the ETA now?
Are you supporting the turbo end of that header more than just with the intake and exhaust connections and does the higher than usual location allow the oil to gravity back to the pan instead of having a pump?
Damn that HKS has a sweet look to it! "HERE I AM!! LOOK AT ME!! NOW HEAR ME FART!!" ;DI don't think he is talking about the BOV. ;D
Beautiful work on the header :o :o :o
One small oversight on the Hydraulic shifter. Closed system is a bitch to bleed. Once bled though it seems to be working well-very well in fact. The opposing pressure applied to each side of the piston seems to prevent any air being sucked into system since the ram is never pulled back-only reversed under pressure. I also remounted cylinder with end pivot pins to remove any small bind/deflection as suggested by Fast. If this works out I'll replace all the lines with SS braided teflon lines to prevent any accidental line ruptures.
This stuff's just going to be on it for a year. Then after everything is for sure done it'll get stripped and PC'd. No need for perfect but ya I know what you're saying.Then I painted my frame, 8 years ago, it hook all fooken day! I shot it with about 30 very light coats to try to minimize the chance of any runs in the paint. I also had a couple of buddies there to help me see any light spots the the paint coverage. But I still had 3 runs in the though. 8) 8) 8)
No way to adjust the wheel bearings other than shimming and YOU have to make the fricken shims!!!!!!! PURE bs1 bs1 bs1
Well ,all 4 corners are back on the ground and aligned now. After 3 days of rework of a few things thanks to G1.
I'm using non plunging 930 cv's in these and they are approx .250 thinner in the races even though they will take more angle. I do not know if the hubs would have been to tight if using the G1 provided standard 930 cv. You don't by chance have any disassembled pics of the ones you have worked on do you?
I sold them after i MEASURED THE DIFF IN thickness and ordered spacers accordingly. The spacers were off. IF there was a crush sleeve as BDKW says others have it would not have been an issue.
Motor and tranny missing are too obvious....just camera angle/perspective. It has 2* each side
But the drivers side rear tire has to much positive camber... But I doubt thats what you are looking for.
Technically I guess it should not have any positive camber eh?technically, I feel you want zero under cornering loads. That requires a bit of static camber. Every design will need differing amounts depending on any defrlection involved in the suspension and tire/wheel .
Too many drawers open on the tool box and it's about to fall over............ Don't ask.. 5:
On second (OK, third) look it looks like you have the springs reversed also.......Yes and yes. What's your addy? Pm me.
All the while I was looking for some form of "wildlife" hanging out around the car in the picture again!I'm still waiting for one of those to stop in. rofl
Perhaps a Jackalope? Aren't those native to OK?
Too many drawers open on the tool box and it's about to fall over............ Don't ask.. 5:Yup BTDT too.
Really haven't decided yet. I was thinking about dodge Charger Purple with the black chassis.I saw a charger like that and liked it. What you think. HOW does a person use paint to change color schemes?
Starting to look like a car again.
Pink rofl for sure, it is gonna be the wifes car sooner or later.She'd KILL me if it was pink. She scorns the chicks and their pink quads.
I hope its running, cause were not gonna push you around in it this time. rofl
Look'n good Fabr! Ya gett'n there! I reckon leave it black.. ;)Ya,that's what I think. It'll be dust gray 5 minutes after unloading tho.
Sooooo.. Dust gray color paint would always look clean? ;DDon't think I haven't given that a thought. LOL!
pink quads! hell I've seen a # of pink buggies down at LS and shake my head in disgust each and every time! poor bastard rails, atleast they were girls driving, I would hate to think they were larry gay buggies instead of mary kay! rofl;D ;D ;D rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl
pink quads! hell I've seen a # of pink buggies down at LS and shake my head in disgust each and every time! poor bastard rails, atleast they were girls driving, I would hate to think they were larry gay buggies instead of mary kay! rofl
Weighed the pig today.1850 pounds dry with the heavy desert tires on it .I need to weigh the tire/wheels to see how much heavier but I'm thinking about 100 pounds difference.:-\
I better not give ya any $hit, I'm quickly gaining on ya!
I'd like to find one wide enough somewhere. LOL!!!!! BUT,I do have onboard wideband and datalogger for throttle position/rpm/AFR/boost b ut somehow I forgot to connect fuel pressure in eyes but I can tune this sucker nonetheless . I just hope I don't lift a head or burn something first! ;D ;D Real world condition logging actually works pretty well. Done it several times before but now its over 3 years ago and welllll.......the memory ain't what it used to be soooooo........I have some relearning to do. eyes eyes The HKS SSV bov sounds cool as hell . It's right behind my head. Love it. First thing I'm going to do tomorrow is verify that the fuel pressure is actually rising with boost. Might be why I'm so lean now. The hahn setup ,from all I've read,comes base mapped so rich it should be running maybe 11.5:1 AFR but I'm seeing spikes of 15+:1 on the widwband guage. I'll do some logging this weekend I hope or it'll be me and enemy tuning our shit all next week at LS hoping for the best. rofl
First thing I'm going to do tomorrow is verify that the fuel pressure is actually rising with boost. Might be why I'm so lean noweyes The HKS SSV bov sounds cool as he. The hahn setup ,from all I've read,comes base mapped so rich it should be running maybe 11.5:1 AFR but I'm seeing spikes of 15+:1 on the widwband guage. I'll do some logging this weekend I hope or it'll be me and enemy tuning our shit all next week at LS hoping for the best. rofl
I've been lurkin'.... ;DYeah I'll second that, I think there's a few of us that would like to see that... ;D
We'll need to see some video of it in the coming months! That and video of opening day at the Bar & Grill!
I want to ask a question put to me by a friend
i know that buggies are very costly if we could get the cost down of a buggies and be able to reach a broader market wouldn't that help our sport. instead of selling one or too buggies if you could sell five or ten
parts drives this industry...... you would have that many more to sell parts too
this would mean going to empi and other manufactures to get there prices down also its just pipes and a motor with wheels whole cars cost more you can buy a 2011 camaro ss for less than some mini buggies
two buggy builders are out of buis now maybe more.
just a thought
for example micro stubs assy. by race trim 1295.00 that's allot of money for that part
compared to a camaro rear suspension lol you have to be rich to be in this there are lots of potential customers out there.
i have a buggy right now i could sell for ten thousand and make money on Evan making them one at a time
i know its possible ::) ::) ::)
I couldn't agree more. Sure there is economies of scale but 10,20 or even 30 buggies a year will not accomplish much concerning the cost of producing and selling a buggy or any of its' components. Yes,this is an expensive hobby IF you are serious about it and want a buggy with serious performance capabilities .Some do and some don't.
You need to realize the actual cost to make some of this stuff. Most companies are not getting rich from selling this stuff. Go price out all the machine work, heat treating, parts, raw material, labor, packaging, advertisement, and overhead. Then tell me the microstubs are expensive. I understand where you are coming from but you cant ask for race quality parts on a backyard builder budget. And you do get what you pay for. Go buy some china made microstubs and check the machining tollerances. You pay for beter materials and quality control.
Sorry to help hi-jack your thread master. I just figured I would help you reach your goal of the longest thread in internet history. ;D When the hell are we going to see some completed pics and video of this machine.
I want to ask a question put to me by a friend
i know that buggies are very costly if we could get the cost down of a buggies and be able to reach a broader market wouldn't that help our sport. instead of selling one or too buggies if you could sell five or ten
parts drives this industry...... you would have that many more to sell parts too
this would mean going to empi and other manufactures to get there prices down also its just pipes and a motor with wheels whole cars cost more you can buy a 2011 camaro ss for less than some mini buggies
two buggy builders are out of buis now maybe more.
just a thought
for example micro stubs assy. by race trim 1295.00 that's allot of money for that part
compared to a camaro rear suspension lol you have to be rich to be in this there are lots of potential customers out there.
i have a buggy right now i could sell for ten thousand and make money on Evan making them one at a time
i know its possible eyes eyes eyes
I think that the X-18 is exactly what you are talking about. It's still pricey, but it would be hard to build a car with similar components for the same price. Of course it's made in China. That is a good way to make something cheaper. As for quality, I don't know, they seem to work.I said it was boring. Didn't say I had any. ;D ;D ;D
I think that Fabr mentioned it but economy of scale kicks in at much higher quantities than the whole mini buggy market. Camaro parts are cheaper because there are millions made. A hundred part run couldn't get you close.
On my build I tried to use many off the shelf parts instead of specialty buggy parts. Some of it works out good but some makes it more difficult.
Go ahead and post the boring video Fabr. ;D I need to see something!
Oh ,pics will come sooner or later. Hell. vid from inside a car is BORING. I gotta get a camera operator.Ya got the Spec man there now the cranky little gimp, tape the camera to his hand, you'll prolly hafta pry the beer out first rofl but stuff him get him doing somethin ;D LMAO
I offered Fabr to drive away from him with his buggy last night...IMO Driving another man's toy is just like spending a night with his wife. drowning drowning drowning
But he not so graciously declined rofl rofl rofl
I offered Fabr to drive away from him with his buggy last night...
But he not so graciously declined rofl rofl rofl
I offered Fabr to drive away from him with his buggy last night...Nah he knows what you drive like tailgator LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl
But he not so graciously declined rofl rofl rofl
Thanks guys. I appreciate the very kind words. With a bit of body work finishing and paint it may deserve them. There are still things to be done/corrected but for the most part I'm just going to enjoy it for a while. Yes the adapter seems to be bullet proof since the vasco input shaft upgrade.. I plan on making 3 more with a couple of case mods in the near future. Seriously the thing is the cats ass.
Absolutely zero signs of any stress on it at all. This is the small BMW guibo also. I admit I had great concerns early on but it's the last thing on my worry list now. I highly recommend its use if it will fit into your design. The shock absorbing factor is just amazing.
Off the top of my head it would likely shave around $500 off,+/- a bit. As for longevity,running in lube,I would bet a long time. Only issue would be with initial break in wear that is not an issue with the silent type. Would need a slack adjuster that might offset any savings also. The silent type would be just as cost effective or more so if the silent chain sprockets were off the shelf or I had dedicated milling cutters for the tooth profile and cnc'd them myself as I do the shafts. If I were to make a small run of these I would do just that. Are you and enemy ready to pull the trigger YET???? LOL!!!!
Brief look at the progression from -"duh,whadda I do?" to end piece. Remember this is only the engine adapted that is necessary to provide a rigid and positively located mount takeoff point.Fabr...
Just remember,wyatt,those that can-do. Those that can't -teach. That is no BS 99% of the time. Remember that ,learn all the tech you can, and then go out and do what is said to be impossible/impractical.WELL SAID
Just remember,wyatt,those that can-do. Those that can't -teach. That is no BS 99% of the time. Remember that ,learn all the tech you can, and then go out and do what is said to be impossible/impractical.Yeap. rofl
Anywhere from 175 to well over 600. Most turbo busas used in buggies will be in the 225-300 range.
you get 3 guys to commit and it will be done,with spare components IF ever needed.