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bijur?
What do you guys use for coolant? Doug, Adam, Fabr, anybody else.I'm lookin for low/no maintenance and no shit growin in the tank. So far it looks like Mobilemet 404 cutting oil is a good candidate. Thoughts?http://thelubricantstore.com/customer/thlust/customerpages/specpages/mobilmet-404.htmlI'm also looking for a few things. Rotary table, mill vise, 3MT live center. The live center is needed most with the vise coming in a close second. The rotary table is more of a want than a need. Just looking for stuff that works for now if any of you have extras you want to sell. I'll upgrade later on. I'm damn near out of money now.OH, Jay at American Rotary wasn't exaggerating when he said you could sit on the converter and carry on a phone conversation. It's actually that quiet. My electric and LP heaters are louder than the converter.Witch one did you get? I mite need a new one soon.
I emailed Mobil and they suggested Mobilmet 426 so I ordered a couple gallons from Mcmaster. Spent the whole day adjusting shit. The mill is in good shape, but the headstock on the lathe needed to be aligned. The chuck needed to be adjusted true and some of the gibs are worn past being able to adjust. Stuck in some shim stock behind the gibs for now. Will have to look into a more proper repair. Also have occasional chatter problems. I think its cutter related, but I'm not familiar with proper set up of these CNMG negative rake inserts and holders.Fast,I got the 7.5hp cnc model for $700 shipped.Jet tech support spoke very highly of the Phase Perfect set up that Fabr suggested. I called Jet to help figure out why my work light got toasted. Turns out the wild leg landed on that circuit causing 38 volts out of a 24 volt transformer. Switched some wires around and it's good now.
So I've been adjusting and tinkering and I think I've done as much as I can. How accurate can I expect a part to be when removing from the chuck and then re-installing? I've got the 10" chuck (unknown brand, markings gone) on because pretty much everything I want to do in the near future will fit in it. I've been turning a 2 3/4" (now 2 1/2") piece of solid steel. I've gotten it to the point where I have 16" or so cut unsupported with no measurable taper. When supporting with a live center I also have no measurable taper. Sounds good so far. Now when I remove the part from the chuck and then re-install it, I'm out up to .003" (.0015" off center) at the chuck and up to .020" (.010" off center) at 16" out. I'm assuming this is coming from play in the jaws and not some alignment problem somewhere else. When I re-chuck and support with the live center, then I am still off right at the chuck, but good 16" out. Can I hope for anything better than this? Or is this about as good as it gets without spending thousands on a chuck? One of the jaws does appear to have been touched with a grinder. Not much, but noticeable. Could I set up a tool post grinder and correct this? Is it worth the effort? My lathe has a D1-4 chuck mount, is my current accuracy going to disappear when I swap chucks? In theory, it should stay the same because of the tapered nose the chuck gets pulled on to, but if it's going to change I'll just leave the damn thing on there and only swap when I need the 4 jaw.Changed my cutter to a cemented carbide cheapy that I sharpened myself and it works awesome. I think I may stock up on them and leave the CNMG tooling in the drawer or put it up for sale. I've got what looks like Flo-lock inserts and no holder. They are grooving/o-ring inserts. Anybody interested? I think I've got about a dozen or so. Will trade for something I can use. Got lot's of inserts I don't think I have a use for. Anybody interested PM me and I'll make a list.I managed to make a ass brass hammer and 3/4" drive ratchet handle the other day. I tried getting pics, but my computer display is fxxked up and I can't tell if the pics are any good or not. Looks like a new computer is in my future too.