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well i figured it would just be easiest to pull my motor since i have to pull the oil pan to install a return line for the turbo. i decided to wait last night to make sure the turbo manifold doesn't warp beyond use while being welded so i then decided to check all the timing marks on the cam and timing chain again one last time since i will have to pull the head anyway to have stronger valve springs installed for the turbo as well. now i check these timing marks 2 years ago because my motor has never felt like it has ever had full tq or hp. it is hard to sight the crank marks through that little hole on the side while in my chassis but the cam marks are easy. if i line of the crank mark with a mirror and then check the cam gears as the manual says the cam marks are off a touch but don't look to be off that much when using the head body as a reference mark as the suzuki manual says. now i went past a bit on the crank so i spun it through one more time and decided to line up the camp marks first this time........when done this way the crank mark is roughly 1 spline off!!!! i read in a post on psyco bike forums one guy telling everyone that one could advance or retard timing on a busa by setting the crank cam gear off by 1 spline, not sure why anyone would do this on a stock n/a app but i know how people can mis read things. i will tear the rest of the side down till i can see the timing marks on that crank and crank cam gear to be sure but i just can't see this timing chain stretching that far but who really knows lol while i have it that far apart i am going to install a new chain but that does explain imo why this motor has always felt like it has had a boat anchor dragging behind it or as i have said , feels like the timing just never comes in at rpm!
so at 65 amp which is a overload condition i guess but a 12 v motor at 65 amps is what 780 watts? then the 220 watt motor they sell for utv's would be about 18 amps i guess. read a few posts about a eps out of a toyota but don't see anything about a stand alone controller. the controller kit that comes with it says to use a 50 amp fuse and i know from a guy that i knot that is running this set up that a 30 amp fuse will work until you max it out by hitting a deep rutt at a high rate of speed in a flat out turn lol then it blew his 30 amp fuse. my aftermarket rec reg is only rated at 45 amps.
well i have got the head tore off the motor but am still awaiting parts!! can't even bolt the turbo manifold up and get the exhaust made with out the head back on lol. i am going to run a mitsibishi turbo hks td06-14c by measurement , modified with a smaller compressor housing and diff wheel. i did not modify the compressor housing or wheel the previous owner did for use on a gsxr 1000, he said it worked good but.......i tore the turbo down and measured it and sent the info off to a shop to see what they could tell me and this was there response, really nice guys and helpful too." Hello Brian,Thank you for your interest. We do have a rebuild kit for your turbo. We have found the following specs, it is an HKS unit there is conflicting info on the compressor wheel size some show it as a 14C and other show it as a 17C (this makes more sense, because that is the stock sized wheel in the Typhoon turbo) and a TD06 turbine wheel (again stock Typhoon). The kit you need is our complete TD05/6 Flat back kit for $99 + shipping. Here is a link to these kits on our website:http://gpopshop.com/products-page/all-kits/mitsubishi-td05td05htd06-complete-flatback-kit/You can order these directly off of the website or by calling in at 479-751-7966. Let us know if you have any other questions or if you need anything else. Thank you, "there is some debate that this is the early ( small) typhoon truck turbo with internal wastegate as in first few months of production then it went to the 17c but i really don't know. it's tore down and out for thermal coating. this is the only compressor map i could find for the stock turbo. the best info i could find online rated the busa at 220 cfm n/a due to some restrictions in the stock intake box. in the camp ground putzing out to the gate i run 3k rpm to 3500 rpm and with the motor in limp mode with the damn timing advanced like it was due to previous owner timing chain botch or who ever did it for them i had to run 8k rpm and higher ( 11k rpm) to just barely keep up and even then it was a challenge!! fabr and enemy have told me they run comfortably at or around 6k rpm and above on the sand at 6 to 8 lbs boost. i'm sure they can confirm or correct this.
here is the compressor map for the stock 2.3 ford turbo engines that i was thinking would work good for a busa but after looking at it deeper the busa would be operating beyond it's efficiency or right of the compressor map. i do believe it would work good for a 600 or 750 and maybe a 1000 cc bike engines but not sure with out more info? the interesting info on the stock 2.3 head only flowed 150cfm but due to fluctuations in qc one head shop showed flow rates from 150 to 180 on stock heads. but from what i can read a few simple mods to the heads as in a mild port job and unshrouding the valves along with larger valves, stronger springs and retainers, better valve seats and a higher lift roller cam and they can reach 200 to 220 cfm depending. along with a cleaner better flowing intake tract of course and then quite a few seem to favor the first gen stock holset turbo's off the cummins or a garrett t3/t4 hybrid.