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UTV's Off Road ( RZR, YXZ, Mini Buggy, Carts,etc.) => UTV Member Project Logs => Topic started by: RC51 Rhino on September 29, 2008, 10:29:45 PM
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Not really a start...I'm about 1/2 way done with a 3 year transformation of a golf cart turned 'rhino'. This thing started innocently enough, an old sports medicine car I got from a high school near my house and a 80ish FZR 600 engine from a crashed bike I found (literally found it on the side of the road!!). We killed that motor (it was pretty dead already) and installed the engine I had planned on using for a minirail...a 99 GSXR 750. Now things got HAIRY! The car was WAY too fast for the crap suspension and the remodel ensued. Got to drive it twice and a cooling problem killed that motor.
Now I'm in the last stretch of this nightmare, altough Ive enjoyed most of it. I don't really remember what it looked like unless I look at the few pics I have of the old days. I started a Rorty R16s but I couldn't leave this poor heap alone...it called to me! The R16 went to the back burner and now, I'm getting somewhere!
I'll post lots of pics as I get good ones...gotta clean out the garage and get the car on it's wheels. Thanks for reading this, guys. I really enjoy being hear and hope I can share any info that might help someone out.
The second incarnation, before the cage...
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Not gonna let anybody see what my cage attempt looked like, that's someplace else we won't mention.
Front ride height
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Rear ride height
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Front bottomed
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Rear bottomed
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Sorry these aren't realy clear, not sure what happened to the camera.
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WOW
I like it
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Looks good, it should be pretty quick with the gixxer in there. my wife wants me to build her something similar to what your doing,, I like it.
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Gixxer blew up a while ago...no we have the coolest yet, an '01 Honda RC51 engine! Aprox. 130 hp, tons of torque, and that sound, I love that v-twin sound!
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Any Updates??
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Sorry, guys...just got back from Rocky Point and next week gotta move (only going a mile or so)... nothing new right now, I'll be getting with it here soon! I want this car done and a friend of mine is now doing something similar with an 01 GSXR 600 motor w/ my help. Hopefully we'll finish close to the same time with 2 guys building (extra hands always help!)...I'LL BE BACK!
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Well, it's only been a COUPLE of months! Finally got the front to where I kinda like it, still have a bump steer problem to figure out. What do you guys think of the spindles? I know the steering heims need to be double shear, but what else? My travel has got me abit worried, too. I have about 23" with the 10" stroke shocks! I know it will work but I can't see a better place to put the shocks w/o them coming through the hood!
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Looks like it's coming along quite well! I don't know if you are actually looking for advice, it looks like you have it well under control. ;D
If you want to reduce your travel a bit, you could move the top of the shock out, outside the front hoop, and as long an you don't go above the frame, I think the hood will still clear. This would reduce travel as well as give the shock more power. If it works and you like it then add the green brace! ;D From the look of the picture I can't tell if it would raise the front end. If you want to lower your fully compressed height, you will probably have to go lower with the lower mount, and out if you want to reduce travel, looks difficult with the current lower arms.......
How far into the travel are the shocks in the pictures? It looks like they might be about half way compressed, which means the arms probably droop waaay down at full extension. Is this where the bumpsteer occurs? It looks like you are well setup to control bumpsteer, but if it droops to a really sever angle, it is hard to control.
Moving the top of the shock would help the droop quite a bit. Several others on here have mentioned making an aluminum spacer, and putting it in the shock to limit extension. That or a limiting strap might be a solution if the droop is the only real problem.
Keep us posted, this build is looking good!
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The car bottoms about 6" from the ground with 26" tires, not sure if I should go lower...there would be a clearance issue with my peddles. Right now I have an inch before the a-arm would hit the master cylinder...I might go the reverse a hung set-up to help this. Seems that would allow more use of the swing motion of the a-arms and put the bumpsteer to a different spot? It does occour more on the droop side of travel and I think 23 or so inches of travel is a bit much for this car. I could live with 16 or so if it worked well. I do some checking to see where and how much I'd have to cut out (old mounts) to re-do (again!) the shock mounts. Bottom will be pretty simple, I can mouve out prolly 4 or 6" on those and move the tops accordingly, we'll see. This car has come a long way, I tend to get bored easily with it now...it's been in one form or another for 3 years! Now, I see it MIGHT get done!
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Hmmm... You also might have a clearance problem with the top arm if you move the top of the shock out...... The trick with moving it out would be to go far enough that you can put the top alongside the frame and not below it, otherwise you end up raising the car even more.....
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I'm not against the idea of a different set of upper and/or lower arms, either. I could put the mount below the arm...a little, any way.
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You could also move your lower mount down and out a little. This is how my lower shock mounts are.
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Okay, got some great ideas on the front end...thanks to you guys, I'll be using a little bit of everything I've learned. Now to the rear!
I had a solid rear axle at first, never got the suspension right and didn't like it...
Next came my first try at trailing arms...not sure I like them at all. Don't have a wide enough spread at the mounts for me and too long to get the ratio right for the shocks....I know they would need a ton more bracing, you get the picture.
The R82s arm is the one 'mounted' mine is the one on the ground.
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I could use the R82s arms but I need a different bolt parttern (further down).
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My other alternative is the old arguement of 'trailing arm vs h-arm' I have a set of axles and hubs from a Toyota MR2 which I thought would be great since they are off a rear wheel drive mid engine car. What are your thoughts on these....pros? cons?
I like the idea of the h-arms for simplicity and little or no plunge...
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I will be taking out the Honda FWD trans and using this carrier...it's out of an '85 Kawasaki Tecate-3 and has all new stuff inside.
Hey Doug Heim or other RC51 guys... what final drive ratio do you guys like? Ive currently got a 50t rear, not sure of the front...it is a stocker.
Please guys hack me up on this, I need as much help and encouragement as possible. I'd love to finish this car before it gets hot...130* in the garage puts my ass in the house or in the water every year!
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I like the overall shape of things. 23 inches of travel sounds like alot to me for something that size, (but i know less then zero about this stuff)
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you need more boxing or at least a thicker plate where I circled with yellow. When that plate flexes you are going to see those arms fold up like they're made of jello....and yes, widen out the attachment points. Keeping those rear wheels where they're supposed to be is a leverage type of thing. Now....quick somebody jump my shit and call me a fool.. ;)
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I need some advice from some RC51 guys...what final drive ratio are you using? I'll be no bigger then 26" maybe 28" ATV tires or paddles. Doug Heim? I have a stock counter shaft sproket 16t and found a 14t (smallest available?), and have a 50t rear from the Gixxer 750 motor days, thus a rather weak 3.125 to 1 ratio. This is not low enough IMO, and need some input. If I shoot for 6 to 1, I'm thinking I'll need to go with a cassette (can't afford the FNR now), or do I try the Honda FWD trans and see where it gets me? I would have plenty of ratios to try there??????
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Bump....hello?....bueller?....bueller? ;D
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can you git a 70 rear on that bitch, dont do a cassette whatever you do...
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I could fit it...any idea on the diameter?
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Huge. Doug said 14.55 inches for a 72. My 60 is just over 12 I believe, and with the 13t front, gearing is optimal. She pulls hard all the way up.
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Where did you find a 13t front? I've been searching and only found 14T...
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Dennis kirk had one for a gsxr1000 so I am using that with 530 chain.
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http://www.speedpartz.com/frontsprockets.htm (http://www.speedpartz.com/frontsprockets.htm)
Not sure its what your looking for but give these guys a look.
This site has a ton of stuff not really with buggies in mind but a lot of it works for us. Link is to front sprocket page, index is on the upper left for other stuff.
And can I just say that Rhino and RC 51 in the same sentence is like beer and boobies in the same sentence. Just somethin about it. ;D 8)
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Got the sprocket thing in hand now...gotta get the $$$ to buy 'em!
Now for something kinda new! I was (started) building an R82s but really wanted this 'rhino' to be first. Got the frame built about 90% and put it to the side...even got the trailing arms 'done' just needed the rest of the bracing put in....and wouldn't ya know it, they look pretty good in the 'rhino'!! It's pretty wide now @ about 7' outside. What do you guys think? I'm thinking I need to build the front arms wider to atleast try to match the rear? The front is about 14" narrower at the WMS than the rear???
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After seeing this guy break his trailing arm at Buttercup last weekend, I figured I needed to do something! This thing was BADASS!! CBR1000 rhino, RPM box...built by a rail builder in Tucson. The rear arms 'were' 1.5"x.120 wall chromo, just not well braced in my opinion. Couldn't get anymore pics, they had it up and running in about 1/2 hour! Snapped the chromo at the heim and broke the shock shaft!
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What is the wheelbase going to be I am building a very similar project but using a CBR1000RR and rear a-arms. Mine will be about the same 7' wide just curious what the wheelbase should be I know mine is going to be pretty square
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I'm right at 7' wheelbase and need to stretch my front track now to match the rear...it's pretty much a square.
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I'm right at 7' wheelbase and need to stretch my front track now to match the rear...it's pretty much a square.
14" is a pretty big difference. When you stretch the front arms, you will be able to easily fix the front travel issues. win - win.
How did the red one break the trailing arm? jumping?
Seems to me your rear arms are looking pretty good. On the frame, I would add another brace from right above where the heim mounts upward, or over into the vertical tube.
Was the guy with the red one carrying that many spares or did they get the welder out?
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I have a 13T for the RC51 $25 plus shipping if you want it.
I tried it on my 954, but is was too short for my liking.
It probably has 5 miles on it.
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Sold! Hang on to it for me and I'll pm you on it? The guy with the Rhino was on his 'maiden voyage' and was not being nice at all! He figured if it was going to break, might as well be the first time out. He was on comp, running the whoops in 3rd gear!!!!!
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No problem.
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Got my carrier done...most of the way. Do I need any bracing on the caliper bracket? Just need to get the mount done on the frame and build/buy my adjusters, and of course fab up my drive shafts and stuff. My sprockets should be here on the 3rd (thanks Rick!). It's finally coming together!
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As long as it is from the attachment poiunt, I would Definitley brace it, and do so as high as possible, them calipers have ungodly force, Mine was bent and it is a angle bracket, it bent the tube and all that it is attached to...
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Sounds like a plan to me. I sent Rick S. an email to order up some more parts for the rear end. Namely some plates to be water jet cut to make up the drive flanges on the ends of the axle.
I would like some input on the front of my car if you all would. I have everything in paralell right now and believe that since I must redo my a-arms to widen the front to better fit the rear, I might as well do some better work on my camber gain and shock location. If I were to move my top a-arm mounts closer together, would this help in giving me some camber gain? How much should I look for? I think the rear is at about 1* static and gains 2* more at bump. Should I look to get the same or close on the front?
I'll post some pics of the front tomorrow. I'm coming down o the end of this build...FINALLY, and can't wait to drive it!
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I would like some input on the front of my car if you all would. I have everything in paralell right now and believe that since I must redo my a-arms to widen the front to better fit the rear, I might as well do some better work on my camber gain and shock location. If I were to move my top a-arm mounts closer together, would this help in giving me some camber gain? How much should I look for? I think the rear is at about 1* static and gains 2* more at bump. Should I look to get the same or close on the front?
Howdy Rhino, have a look at this site for modelling up your suspension. I found it invaluable when doing my rear, havet yet had a go with the front. Should be ok for camber gain calcs.
http://www.racingaspirations.com/suspensiongeometry.php (http://www.racingaspirations.com/suspensiongeometry.php)
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I would like some input on the front of my car if you all would. I have everything in paralell right now and believe that since I must redo my a-arms to widen the front to better fit the rear, I might as well do some better work on my camber gain and shock location. If I were to move my top a-arm mounts closer together, would this help in giving me some camber gain? How much should I look for? I think the rear is at about 1* static and gains 2* more at bump. Should I look to get the same or close on the front?
If you added some KPI to the spindles, it would also create some camber gain. You need the top arm to get shorter to get what you are looking for. KPI does this as well as moving the top mounts further apart. Moving closer together will hurt the cause.
Moving the frame mounts closer together vertically can also get you some camber gain in compression, but can result in camber change the wrong way in droop.
Give us some dimensions for the components and we could draw something that might help. It might be just as easy to modify the spindles as the frame. Are you planning to run front brakes?
The link Artie gave works well once you get you head around the MM conversion, and how it works.
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I know I need my steering arms in double shear...no need in pointing that out. My parts measure out as such:
A-arms are 22" and need to be re-built 7" or so wider to match the rear width.
Verticle spread is 8" both frame and spindle.
Horizontal spread at the frame is 8.25"
I thought KPI was the angle top to bottom leaning back, not in? Castor, not camber? I have some set in KPI if that is what it is called, you can see it the first pic.
I am planning on rebuilding alot of the front end anyway, so any ideas right now can be incoperated! Pitch away!
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You need more kpi. The line through the 2 joints is barely touching the inside edge of the tire. Also, the vertical spread at the upright should be MORE than the vertical spread at the frame, or you will get positive camber gain as the suspension compresses.
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KPI is King Pin Inclination. A line drawn through the upper and lower pivot (when viewed from the front) should hit the ground approx 1/2 inch inside the tyres centreline, or there abouts, some say a little more.
KPI is also, more accurately IMO, known as SAI or Steering Axis Inclination, it depends upon which book you.
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Ok, First pic is sorta what you have. I don't have the correct shock mount numbers etc. I stretched the width a total of 7". Keep in mind I don't know the spindle width and tire arrangement, I just guessed off of the pictures. The red line is the KPI.
(https://dtsfab.com/index/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=216.0;attach=9449;image)
Second picture, I changed the KPI to 1/2" inside the center of the tire. I also increased the separation on the spindle to 10". You can see on the right side how you get camber gain in compression and droop. On the left side is the same thing at ride height with 0 Camber. You will need to keep the caster (top heim behind the lower heim on the spindle) when building the arms. I also think that you could benefit by moving the shock out where I showed on this drawing, to pick up some ratio. It might cost just a bit of travel, but the 22" is quite a bit.
(https://dtsfab.com/index/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=216.0;attach=9451;image)
Hmmm for some reason drawings look like crap. GTG now.
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What Eng said +1 ... no plus +47,567
Good work Eng.. extremely clear mate.
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Get someone to cad you up some new uprights and have rick s water jet them as well... ;D
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Sounds like a good plan. I was looking into cutting the whole front end off tonight...by the looks of the drawings (thanks Engineer!) maybe that's a bit extreme? I need to look into some new spindle material to be able to use my hubs on a new set of uprights. Anybody got a free minute to
'cad-up' a new set of uprights? I don't have a cad program nor the ability to use one...what would something like that be worth anyway?
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Need some more dimensions.... shock locations, spindle info, desired track width at ride height, etc. Can you salvage the spindle stubs? What diameter are they? No front brakes?
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I'll have to start at the beginning one night this week. I need to set the car at ride height and measure everything up. I'm not sure if I want to salvage the snouts...they have been welded on a LOT!! They are EZGO spindles and are approx. 1" in dia. I like the hubs as they are easy to get and come in welded steel or cast aluminum. I can always get someone to make me a set out of billet, too. I'm torn on the brake thing. I've never touched my front brakes on my quad at the dunes and all the 4x4s I've had would throw me through the windshield if I hit the brakes hard in the sand...how do I get around that? Suppose I could go with a porportioning valve and maybe turn the fronts way down or off in the sand?
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Should be ok with just rear brakes as long as they are good ones. I ran a single inboard disk on my full size streetbike powered car and it stopped just fine. But all 4 corners is beter if you can do it.
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I've got a Honda quad I am thinking about robbing the calipers and rotors off of...think they will be big enough? What about the balancer/proportioning valve?
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Would probably be plenty, any additional stopping power on the front will make a big difference in the sand IMO. Do the honda hubs fit your wheels? I mainly keep asking about brakes because it makes a huge difference in the spindle design. ;D The brake rotor is going to control how far the lower heim can be put into the wheel. That will affect KPI, Track width, A-arm length, shock ratio, etc. So it's something you need to decide before changing anything.
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I looked at the rotors and calipers today...if I use my steel hubs, I can weld on an adapter and not have to move anything. I can get some more KPI by moving the top heim mounting position in...towards the frame. Should work pretty well. A buddy said maybe a ball valve to 'turn off' the front brakes?
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You could al;so use the ball valve to give yourself a parking brake.
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Going to clean out the garage this week and fix the golfcart...hopefully sell it to finish this car. I'm back thinking heavily on this car after my rides at Glamis last weekend. The cart is fun but short on power and high on ride height. No body roll noticed but still feels too tall for duning.
I am leaning back on putting the Honda trans back in the car and changing the rear suspension AGAIN. Maybe a-arms? I really like the way the Teryx arms worked out on the cart and too the way the axles don't have much plunge... my trailing arms are asking for 5.5" of plunge!!! The only way I can make that work is with slip-joint driveshafts/u-joints. The joints I don't mind but I'm worrying about the slips binding. Any thoughts?
Don't want a 5 or 6 link...too complicated so it's either trailing arms or a-arms...PLEASE comment! I really want the travel I was shooting for with the trailing arms...18" or so, I think if I can get it in the front with few issues, I should be able to get it in the rear with the same (no pun intended!!)
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Going to clean out the garage this week and fix the golfcart...hopefully sell it to finish this car. I'm back thinking heavily on this car after my rides at Glamis last weekend. The cart is fun but short on power and high on ride height. No body roll noticed but still feels too tall for duning.
I am leaning back on putting the Honda trans back in the car and changing the rear suspension AGAIN. Maybe a-arms? I really like the way the Teryx arms worked out on the cart and too the way the axles don't have much plunge... my trailing arms are asking for 5.5" of plunge!!! The only way I can make that work is with slip-joint driveshafts/u-joints. The joints I don't mind but I'm worrying about the slips binding. Any thoughts?
Don't want a 5 or 6 link...too complicated so it's either trailing arms or a-arms...PLEASE comment! I really want the travel I was shooting for with the trailing arms...18" or so, I think if I can get it in the front with few issues, I should be able to get it in the rear with the same (no pun intended!!)
Thoughts? Ditch the slip shaft axles and go a arm. Talk to DS about rear a arms for first hand experience of any pit falls but in general get the mounts wide apart where they mount to the frame and make sure capable of the loads where the shock mounts..
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3-link..... Nobody here likes it, and I'm sure they'll speak up, but I think you should at least consider it. Do some research and make up your own mind.
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DSrace, I guess? What do you say, DS? I like the 3 link, too...just not sure on the complications involved.
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No no no on the 3 link. You might need to pm dsrace.
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No no no on the 3 link. You might need to pm dsrace.
See, told ya... :)
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I really do like the way the trailing arms are on the car now. Just can't get the travel right with the plunge right too. The a-arms on the cart work really well, I think I can do it again with good results.
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Well here are a few pics of the progress since Halloween. Got the trans set and ready for mounts, clutch center machined down some and the CV cups from the pick-a-part installed and discovered I have a LSD. Yee Haww! Now wait 'til Wed. to get my BMW CVs and axles and get to fabbin'!
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi58.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fg243%2Fmatchew33%2FPhoto-0006.jpg&hash=69e53f36f5adfe9cad417007b4273f90e7065d38)
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi58.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fg243%2Fmatchew33%2FPhoto-0013.jpg&hash=5c31d4143d28321eec23ea7088040521a2079eb7)
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi58.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fg243%2Fmatchew33%2FPhoto-0014.jpg&hash=b26d9b8f42c0e32cb10611dac8a069d7889e2b9b)
I know the pics suck, still trying to get the camera fixed and have to use my phone camera 'til then
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discovered I have a LSD.
You're trippin alright, cuz I doubt you have limited slip. Where'd the tranny come from.
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A tuner kid in town (phoenix). Maybe not LSD...I can't turn the diff in oppposite directions by hand. Seems very tight? Guess I'll crack the cases and check it out.
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A tuner kid in town (phoenix). Maybe not LSD...I can't turn the diff in oppposite directions by hand. Seems very tight? Guess I'll crack the cases and check it out.
LSD wasn't available in the states. You might try looking up the tranny online to see if it is JDM. Somebody could have split the case and added LSD, but it's pretty pricey and I doubt he would have parted with it for reasonable money.
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Welded spiders?
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Which model Honda Trans?
It may have a viscous centre.
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Don't ya love those one's with the viscous centers Mmmmmm...
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It is a L3(?) 5 spd. It came in 80s civics and such. Not sure on the viscous center....love it or hate it??
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A viscous centre is better than an open centre, but not as good as a 'proper' limited slip differential centre.
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A viscous will slip easily at low speed differentials such as turning a corner similar to an open rearend but as the speed differential increases ,such as one tire trying to spin ,the slip becomes less and less as the speed difference becomes greater similar to a posi.
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Civics didn't get LSD until the 88-91 body, and even then it was overseas models only. I did read the other night that Honda's factory LSD is a helical type. I think that's what I read anyway. Look up your tranny at honda-tech.com. If it's a 5 speed, it's out of a DX, or SI.
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Some light reading.... It tells how to identify LSD without a teardown.
http://tjshondas.20m.com/l3.htm (http://tjshondas.20m.com/l3.htm)
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Well, the Jeep project is on hold for a while so I thought I'd bring the car back into the garage and try to finish it this time around.
Picked up another tranny (last one went in the golfcart) and traded a guy my center pull steering rack for his end pull rack. Got all my bushings and the tube to fit them into, so I'm ready to get after this thing and make some real engine noise!
What I REALLY need is some help with the design of the front suspension of the car. I have NEVER liked anything I have done with it, so I'd like to put it out there to get some "professional" help. I've seen some of the stuff RickS and Protofab has done (very nice work!) and guys that have the coin to drop for the really good stuff...I have no idea how to make the best of what I have and where I want to go with it.
I have the 10" stroke Kings and hope to be running a 30-31" LT type tire the steering rack is the 7th one down on this page http://www.dansperformanceparts.com/buggy/susp/buggysusp%20rack&pinion.htm
Can someone ppplllleeeeaaaaaasssssseeeee help me out? I'm still on a tight budget but could swing some cash for the design AND laser or water jet(??). As far as Proto goes how 'bout some prices on hub, too? I'm thinking I might like to do brakes on the front, too.
I can post or email pics if needed, I expect I won't be keeping the front end that is currently on the car so maybe it would just be for size and reference?
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What track width are you shooting for? Flange to flange.
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"I can post or email pics if needed, I expect I won't be keeping the front end that is currently on the car so maybe it would just be for size and reference?"
Be a good idea, with some dimensions.
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Well, the Jeep project is on hold for a while so I thought I'd bring the car back into the garage and try to finish it this time around.
Picked up another tranny (last one went in the golfcart) and traded a guy my center pull steering rack for his end pull rack. Got all my bushings and the tube to fit them into, so I'm ready to get after this thing and make some real engine noise!
What I REALLY need is some help with the design of the front suspension of the car. I have NEVER liked anything I have done with it, so I'd like to put it out there to get some "professional" help. I've seen some of the stuff RickS and Protofab has done (very nice work!) and guys that have the coin to drop for the really good stuff...I have no idea how to make the best of what I have and where I want to go with it.
I have the 10" stroke Kings and hope to be running a 30-31" LT type tire the steering rack is the 7th one down on this page http://www.dansperformanceparts.com/buggy/susp/buggysusp%20rack&pinion.htm
Can someone ppplllleeeeaaaaaasssssseeeee help me out? I'm still on a tight budget but could swing some cash for the design AND laser or water jet(??). As far as Proto goes how 'bout some prices on hub, too? I'm thinking I might like to do brakes on the front, too.
I can post or email pics if needed, I expect I won't be keeping the front end that is currently on the car so maybe it would just be for size and reference?
IMO,that was a mistake as a center load rack with a rack adapter is easier to design and easier to eliminate bump steer issues but an end load can be made to work if ya know how and are willing to maybe make a few small compromises. Some prefer the end loads but not myself. I know dsrace does and he builds a great front end.
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I really never liked the center load rack I had...we'll see what happens. As for the rest I hope more will chime in?
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Got to droolin' at the pics on Protodie's site, so I called....thanks Jody, looks like just what I need!
Gonna order his front end plate kit and use his spindles and hubs, too. Got the 'new' Honda tranny cut up and sitting in the right spot...now gotta build the new mounts for it.
Heard the RC run for the first time in about a year and a half...gotta love a Optima red top! This thing has been sitting for a LONG time and it still started! A v-twin open headers sounds bad @$$!! Put the new Big Gun can on it to tame it down and get a spark arrester on it to...still a crazy cool sound!
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I need some help guys. Got things happening with the car...rear suspension almost done, motor mounts, etc. Need to figure out my gearing and what size rear sproket to get.
I found the rear ratio to be 4.250-1 with 5th gear being between .702 and .771 depending on the year and car (I believe .702 to be correct.). So, if memory serves, we would multiply the two together and have a ratio of 2.9835? Seems awful low?
I am going to be running about a 31 to 33 inch tire, what kind of gearing do I WANT? The final drive on the RC is 2.5-1 on the bike (16t x 40t) with the gear box being:
first 2.641
second 1.812
third 1.428
fourth 1.124
fifth 1.080
sixth 0.962
So what is it that I'm supposed to be looking for? I'd like to keep the grunt of this motor and some of the top end...it doesn't need to go over about 70 or 80 mph though, thay seems about right.....no?
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My brain has turned to MUSH
Divide the driven into the driver sprocket...The added trans throws a wrench into the machine...I know in tight trails 10 to 1 is optimal for brute grunt to get moving and a realistic top end...But that is in the woods, and tight trails
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Is that for the CVT set-ups or a cog trans? Seems I might be defeating the purpose of the trans if I have to go that deep?!?!
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Ya that was cvt :(
But I think it's pretty close for both ???
like I said my brain has turned to mush
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That's something I do like about the 5 speed thing...I can use the gears for what ever coming down the road. I want 5th for the fastest desert stuff and for when I drive on the street. I don't want to gear it 'wrong' and have the power in the wrong places.
The RC is pretty long legged, I was 13T x 60t and 22" tires...clutch chatter was horrible getting it rolling. I know I need to be deeper than that (4.6 to 1).
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Do you know the ratio's for the other gears in the Honda? What gear you gonna run Honda in mostly? I'd shoot for 5.5-6 to 1 final.
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Honda trans ratios as follows:
1st 3.250
2nd 1.894
3rd 1.259
4th 0.937
5th 0.771
Final is 4.250