DTSFab.com (Desert, Trail and Sand)
Automotive Powered Off Road (AKA: Buggys, Jeeps, Trucks, Etc,Etc. ) => "AP" Member Project Logs => Topic started by: Whiplash on September 19, 2008, 06:10:20 PM
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Well here is a quick list of pics that I compiled form another site that was my build log, I will try to identify things not obvious later this is just to get it up and on here! Hope it does some good for you all and the site!
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Here is some more!
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MOre!
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mOOrE!! ;D
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MOORE!! :o
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MOOOOORE!! :D
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what about MOOORE!! LOL!
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And again more!
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What about MORE!! ???
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Damn! Ask for some pics and you provide! It'll take a week to look at them all!!! Good job!!!
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Thanks for all the grat pix Whiplash,
I was looking at thr spindles...have you cycled them through their turning radius? they look to be a little narrow ???
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If you look at the titles, they are labeled "before scalloping" or something like that and that is to say I will be cutting them out for turning clearance. My first pair so I had to do a little reverse engineering there LOL!
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AHA! That's what you meant by scalloping. I see now!
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I hope that it will be enough to clear a decent turn radius, but if not.........PUNCH IT!!
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The 1st boxed spindles I built were too narrow, I forgot to factor in the movement around the end of the heim, not on the shaft side
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Yeaqh, I hope this works ok, but like I said if I need to I can just whip it around!
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Don't feel bad! I think anyone that's ever done a set has fubarred that one. Well ,everyone but those with SW or Alibre or something like 'em.
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Or even a pencil and paper :-X
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Well for what its worth, I finally made some progress on the rear!
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I think your jumping the gun alittle bit :r
You need to get some seats in there before your ready to ride :P
Looks good so far
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Fred Flintstone! LOL. Where's Barney? Looking good!
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Hey Whiplash. Just making shure that when you widened your frame you either used new cross peices or at least sleved and pluged the joints. Looks good so far.
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Where's Barney?
Real men prefer Betty. I am just saying...... Not that there is anything wrong with that Fabr......
Nice Whiplash, keep up the good work!
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Thanks guys! I did in fact use new members for the lowers and plug and sleeved the uppers so I should be good to go! I am hoping to get this thing running this season even if its for the end only! I figure it will be in rough form though for sure!
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Real men prefer Betty. I am just saying...... Not that there is anything wrong with that Fabr......
Nice Whiplash, keep up the good work!
:m :7 :m
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after all the hassle and troubles i have had making rear a arms, im wishing i woulda went your way with trailing arms... good call there. pretty simple hub attachment also.. :)
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Thanks! Here's a few more!
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More Progress!! Amazing what happens when you clean up the garage! Here is an idea I had for the rear mount points, I think it will be really strong!
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And here is the rear susp. mocked up for the first time!
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except they are galvanized... ;D
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your going to find a ver very akward toe rate like that, you need the rear links to swing more than making thee t arm go in and out...
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I hate to be a nit picker, but have you bolted a wheel on that hub yet, are you using minimal offset wheels?
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Yeah, I am using the least I can get, but its gonna be close, keep in mind I still have to come up with a bolt pattern adapter for the rear. I guess I don't understand the toe idea, I have yet to cycle it to see what happens. Not even tacked up top or in front yet.
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what will happen as it cycles up and down, the rear links will pull the hub inward and push it outward making the toe in change dramaticaly as it cyles, if the rear link are out behind the hub so the come forwar into the hub, it will use more of the swing action not effecting the toe as much, my drak has toe change but it is un noticeable...Ill see if i can find a picture...If not i will take one tomorrow...
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Hey whiplash, I would recomend a couple more heims in the rear. If you heim the two forward links and seperate them and add one towards the car you will have a 5 link. A little more work but much more affective. And dont be fooled by light weight of the car and severial link mounts. There is a TON of load on your link mounts. I will try to put up a pic of what happens when your link mounts dont have enough gusseting. personal experience.
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What kinda travel you looking for out of the rear? That has to be the longest trailing arm I've ever seen.
Glad to see some progress, Get back out there on Sunday and make that thing a roller.
Hey when I redid the front of my panther I "borrowed" the front end idea from what I saw you do to yours. THANKS.
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I thought that looked familiar!! Glad to have helped! The trailing arm is long to try to make the toe change as minimal as possible as the forward mount is further away from the end that is moving in and out thus a bigger arc and less toe change. I borrowed this design from the Redline revolt so it should work ok, they handle great I've been told. I am looking for 20"
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they length isnt going to matter, unless you are moving the point inward or outward, you could move it all the way to the front hub and if it is in the same line as it would be on the rear it wont change the effect... You need the rear links to swing back, even the redline does that...
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hey whip, why didnt you go with the traditional style trailing arm? with the two tubes that come off the carrier, and attach to the frame like right behind the seat?? thats the usual style that i have seen. pretty much like yoshis.
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I was considering that, but with my limited experience with this stuff, I tried to make something that I understood and could adjust if I missed somewhere, this way I just build a trailing arm and I can adjust the length of the horizontals as needed without re-designing the whole thing. Next time I will try the trailing arm style as it seems the best compromise, or maybe a 5 link?
As for Bugpac's comment, the longer the arm really has to change the amount of toe in and out as it is a longer lever and therefore requires more change in the rear to make the same change up front, right? I don't see how it couldn't make it less if you really think about it, besides, it worked for the Redline Revolt it will work for me too. I am not driving on pavement, or hard pack --EVER-- I only do sand so it will be fine I think, I understand the toe will change a bit but that will likely help me corner as it will gain toe out in bump making it slide better when the body rolls.
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I was considering that, but with my limited experience with this stuff, I tried to make something that I understood and could adjust if I missed somewhere, this way I just build a trailing arm and I can adjust the length of the horizontals as needed without re-designing the whole thing. Next time I will try the trailing arm style as it seems the best compromise, or maybe a 5 link?
As for Bugpac's comment, the longer the arm really has to change the amount of toe in and out as it is a longer lever and therefore requires more change in the rear to make the same change up front, right? I don't see how it couldn't make it less if you really think about it, besides, it worked for the Redline Revolt it will work for me too. I am not driving on pavement, or hard pack --EVER-- I only do sand so it will be fine I think, I understand the toe will change a bit but that will likely help me corner as it will gain toe out in bump making it slide better when the body rolls.
You got it all figured out, youll be fine, I did the same exact thing when i built mine, I ended up cutting it up and send that part to scrap...
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I am not arguing, just trying to "reason it out" you understand. Hopefully it will work, I figure I am just copying another car that works.
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you have to copy it exact tho, If you were shooting for 12" of travel, hell ya youd be fine, but 20 is a lot for the setup...Does a redline swing 20 in the rear?
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To get 20" you will need some 24"+ axles and race cut 930cvs. And for your camber change the more inboard the froward link to the hub the less toe change you will see. So if you pushed your hub farther out and left the conection point the same on the forward links your camber would increase. Hope this makes sence. Think of your setup kind of like an I-beam setup on a ranger, The longer the beams are the less camber change you will get for the amount of travel. That is why they run the longest beams possible.
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The axles I am using give almost 36* of angularity woth no clicking, so I thinkn I will be fine, they are plunge type as well.
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Any updates on the car lately whiplash
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I wish, I have been hit my the holidays, (Nov 22 is anniversary, Dec 10 is wifes B-day, X-mas, ETC) = no money for my shocks!!!!!! I did however bring the motor over from my dads so I could get it mocked up but then my brother in law wanted me to build him a boom box for his truck but MAAN that thing HIIITS now!! Bounces coins like 6" in the air on the roof!
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Got the paddles and rear rims, and I now am in the process of getting the engine block in the car tabbed up and the rear drive figured out. Pics coming as soon as I have enough to look at!
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looks so easy, so simple. i just wish i had you guy's talent. looks good. 8)
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looks so easy, so simple. i just wish i had you guy's talent. looks good. 8)
Im sure you have some talent we dont have... ;D It will come in time you just have to do it....
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Hey looking for some input on this material for the rear drive assy. I found this and it seems good to me as I do not have access to a lathe....
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/2HXL8 (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/2HXL8)
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Hey looking for some input on this material for the rear drive assy. I found this and it seems good to me as I do not have access to a lathe....
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/2HXL8 (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/2HXL8)
The link is dead, But contact Rick S im sure he'd help you out at a very reasonable cost, And ill Guarantee you wont be disappointed in his work...
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WIerd, it works on my end... I really just need straight shaft like this but I will give him a try.
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WIerd, it works on my end... I really just need straight shaft like this but I will give him a try.
He has some splined shaft and can make the hubs... ;D
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Take bugs advise. 8)
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Thanks guys, will do!
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Hey whiplash, I would recomend a couple more heims in the rear. If you heim the two forward links and seperate them and add one towards the car you will have a 5 link. A little more work but much more affective. And dont be fooled by light weight of the car and severial link mounts. There is a TON of load on your link mounts. I will try to put up a pic of what happens when your link mounts dont have enough gusseting. personal experience.
I have to agree with punkur, you are so close to a 5 link ( from what I saw in the pics ) it would be to your advantage to switch. but you really do need double shear at the frame on you inboard links, especially if your going to run 15" rims with 30" or taller paddles. there is a prime spot on the side of your chassis to weld in an upright to carry the forward links a third link on the bottom and you have it done. not quite as easy as it sounds but not far off in your case. I have built many 5 link rear ends in the past, I prefer them to the trailing arm myself for many reasons.
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Here are a couple pics of my bent up 5 link. It was .120 mild and I got about 8' of air. This is wiy I recomended you beef up you rear link areas.
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Not bad welds though huh. Twisted the tube to where the tabs were almost 90 degrees from where they started without so much as a crack on the welds in the 2 tabs.
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Not bad at all, if the tabs were not dead tubed they would have been stronger tho... ;D
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When I rebuilt it I added some kickers down to the back of the tubes and made the rear out of .120 chromoly, and gusseted all of my link tabs. Never had a problem after. Just pointing out to whiplash the amount of load on the suspension link points. I didnt know enough obout fab when this frame was built for me to know where to add tube. I know now ;D
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Here are a couple pics of my bent up 5 link. It was .120 mild and I got about 8' of air. This is wiy I recomended you beef up you rear link areas.
Finally!! someone to settle the argument...... Did it drive better with a whole lot of camber?? ;D ;D ;D
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Im shure it would have if the sprocket made it throught the incident. I set the car to be a left hander for the dunes. I just stay away from the right hand bowls. LOL
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Yeah, I already pretty much finished it up but there is now bracing between the upper and loer inboard mounts so they should never have a problem. As for the 8' of air, I doubt I will ever get that nuts, I like going fast and that's pretty much it, I tend to be easy on stuff in the air...
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Ditto
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Kind of a whoops on my part. My friend waved me on to jump and didnt tell me there was no landing!
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YUP! I have done that before, won't do it again! LOL!
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Just a thought, has anyone ever thought of using a spool out of a 9" rear or something to be the rear carrier? Seems like you could easily find a pillow block bearing that would press onto the ends to create a carrier couldn't you? I know it would EASILY be strong enough and it would be lighter than most carriers as well! HEll they even make aluminum ones that take like 1000HP!
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Just a thought, has anyone ever thought of using a spool out of a 9" rear or something to be the rear carrier? Seems like you could easily find a pillow block bearing that would press onto the ends to create a carrier couldn't you? I know it would EASILY be strong enough and it would be lighter than most carriers as well! HEll they even make aluminum ones that take like 1000HP!
to heavy and to large, standard vw spool lighter, and accepts off the shelf cv cups, no major mods...
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Where would I find one of those to look at?
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i have had an idea running in my head for 2 years now. ive wanted to build a locker carrier from a powertrax locker. i have had one in my nova rear end for about 3 years now and i beat the piss out of it. no problems. unit is about 350 retail, and can get many spline patterns.
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Yeah, I had one in my 13.00 sec 1/4 mile nearly stock 4.3 S-10 a while back worked great!
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Where would I find one of those to look at?
any old vw trans, hell call up Aztransaxle, he probbaly has one he pulled out...
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so would a swing axle car accept cv's also???..also, do they have the same stub axles as a cv bug? i have a swing axle car, with complete engine and trans, all wheels. body removed. and i few swing axle trans in one of the sheds.
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so would a swing axle car accept cv's also???..also, do they have the same stub axles as a cv bug? i have a swing axle car, with complete engine and trans, all wheels. body removed. and i few swing axle trans in one of the sheds.
Im not positive, maybe aztransaxle will chime in, pm him...I think they are the same spline, different side covers...Again not 100%...
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Well its official, I am no longer a MSP project!! Ecotec turbo here I come!! Turbo later of course!! LOL! Thing should really fly with this much torque AND a CVT! $589 and got the WHOLE THING computer wiring harness, manifolds, brackets....complete with only 14K miles on an 04' SHIPPED!! ANYBODY looking for a 2000 KAWASAKI ZX 9R engine....Really good price!! Just ask!
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Sweet, that is some inexpensive power there. What do they make for power before you start modifying? What kind of RPM do they turn?
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Welcome to the dark side - "auto power for cars." Whatafxxkinwicked concept. ;D
Time for admin to move the build log?
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Yup most likely, as for the power, these are about 145HP and the best part 140TQ, @ about 6500ish peak RPM but with a few things like the header that it will need anyway to fit the chassis and the cold air intake and the power tune these things alone should bring it up to 170-180HP and very similar TQ, this will get me going for the time being and then I will move on to the hairdryer or maybe some simple power mods like porting and cams, these engines are capable of some serious power figures either way! I miss my 500+RWHP Turbo 2000 Camaro SS! This will be quicker 0-60 though I bet!
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My opinion of you just took a nose dive. Any camaro newer than 1980 is best used as monster truck fodder.
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My opinion of you just took a nose dive. Any camaro newer than 1980 is best used as monster truck fodder.
?? ever look into the power production of the LSX engines?? That car was a blast and beat MANY a crotch rocket on the street, I remember one such race where the rider on the R1 was looking over at me while I was driving past him with the most STUNNED look on his face....LOL..
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A good engine doesn't excuse them for the rest of the car.
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The car was great really, the 90's cars were junk I'll admit that but the 99-up cars were pretty good, I had T-Tops etc and never a leak, leather lasted good, radio rocked for stock, no rattles etc, great car really, fun too! But hey to each his own...I got my 67 for the nice one though if I can ever get it back together!! LOL.
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absolutely nothing wrong with 99 and up camaros.. unless your just bitchin about the styling, but still nothing wrong.. you cannot make any type of comparrison with a stock 1980, to a stock 2000... but whatever.... :)
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I'm talkin bout build quality and styling. The only thing any year of camaro can do performance wise, is go in a straight line. I prefer the steering wheels in my cars to work... ;)
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Funny, I think you should look at the specs of a car before you quote things! .89G in the skidpad was average and with better tires it will do 1G I have seen it personally. I don't know, I like the looks of them when they are modded right! My shop built a one with over 600HP N/A 434 that passed smog :o with 335's out back and 315's up front and that thing was an auto cross TERROR! to say the least, full global west suspension etc. never found a car it didn't WAX, even a special addition 360 Modena (SP) with a stripped racing style interior and fully built engine couldn't hang, so ?? again to each his own...
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Since it's official...
I'm happy to move it to the AP section ;D
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THANKS! ;D
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I like the looks of them when they are modded right! If that makes you happy. again to each his own...Fair enough
I view the skid pad as more of a sales gimmick than anything. But that's just me. So what's new with your build?
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THANKS! ;D
No problem
Welcome to the AP ;)
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I view the skid pad as more of a sales gimmick than anything. But that's just me. So what's new with your build?
WEll nothing until I get the engine and the clutch, then I will get back to it getting the driveline setup for the new engine and finish up mounting the rear trailing arms.
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What rear wheels are you going to run Whiplash? I may be making some adapters for f-150 to wide 5. Or are you using Ford bolt pattern wheels?
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Really I need to adapt the ford 5 lug to a STD VW 4 bolt, if you can do it I need them approx 1.5" thick! Let me know I can't figure out where to get them, or I could just re drill the hubs and use spacers I guess... Not sure what to do yet but they were a bargain!
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Really I need to adapt the ford 5 lug to a STD VW 4 bolt, if you can do it I need them approx 1.5" thick! Let me know I can't figure out where to get them, or I could just re drill the hubs and use spacers I guess... Not sure what to do yet but they were a bargain!
Sorry can't help there. 5 to 4 is kinda rough. Your going to have to weld up a stud hole or something. Cause its just a bit off going from 135MM circle to 130. They got some here that are close, but no cigar:
http://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=PC&Category_Code=6ADAPTERS (http://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=PC&Category_Code=6ADAPTERS)
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Oh well, I will figure out something.
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What about tapping the the original hub, Machine counter-sinking the adapter plate, and studding the adapter to fit the new wheel?
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Kind of what I was thinking, I will try it should be fine, just need to get to it now, waiting for the boost I will get from the new engine! LOL!
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WOOHOO! I am finally back at it, got the steering wheel, steering box, steering shaft support and quick release in yesterday, finally can start again! I'll get some pics up when I start welding again, just moved in the new house and no 220 yet!
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Pull one 110 leg from one circuit and the other 110 leg from another circuit in the main box and VIOLA! you got 220! No need to wait. Get this buggy done.We can't wait ! ;D ;D
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Its that simple? I will try it if so, any more details I need? I have open spaces in the panel, just never wired before..
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Do you have 2 spots adjacent to each other? If so go buy a 50 amp double pole breaker for your box. Run your leads from the breaker out thru the bottom of the box and surface mount the receptacle below the main box. Done.
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OK, I have to move it over to the back of the house temporarily as my shop is not done yet but I can handle the conduit and such, so I just get the "double pole" breaker and hook up both hots and both negs and both grounds to one side of the breaker and then come out the other with just one "leg" of each through the conduit to my new receptacle?
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What gauge wire do I use for about 25-30' with approx 30 amps(welder is smaller one)?
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OK, I have to move it over to the back of the house temporarily as my shop is not done yet but I can handle the conduit and such, so I just get the "double pole" breaker and hook up both hots and both negs and both grounds to one side of the breaker and then come out the other with just one "leg" of each through the conduit to my new receptacle?
No, you will have 3 wires in most cases. If your welder has 4 wires one is ground and the other is neutral. If you have a 3 wire plug on your welder the 2 hots go into the breaker and one is your ground.
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What gauge wire do I use for about 25-30' with approx 30 amps(welder is smaller one)?
well if it is a 30 amp receptacle 10 gauge wire is fine...
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I agree with all above.
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OK Cool! I will try to get it all done this weekend, if I can get the breakers...Could I just connect to two of the already existing 110 breakers as long as I am not using them on other stuff at the same time? The breakers are hard to find here for the zinsco panels apparently, its really old.
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Yes ,if they are adjacent to each other and on the same side of the panel OR they could be side by side directly across from each other if on both sides but it will not pass code anywhere so far as I know. The reason they would have to be as I described is because the bus bar that splits the incoming 220 connects the breakers alternately to the bus bar. You cannot feed the 110 for 220 from a common bus bar. Hope I didn't confuse you with that.My puter is down at home and I'll be aaway till the morning.If you don't understand maybe some else can describe it better.
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as you look down the breakers box, every other breaker is on the same side of the phase, you can not get 220 out of a piggy back breaker, were there is two breakers in one space, Unless the box is designed so, "Ge has one designed to do so" so using 2 -110 breakers as long as they are right next to each other top and bottom will net 220, they generally will not directly across from one another, as they are feeding from the same phase... And in reality a 220 and 110 breaker is the same, there is no definition between them... If using two individual breakers you need to tie the switches together, this is done so if power is interrupted to one side the other will shut off as well, In general a 220 volt motor etc will run via 110, but will cause damage to the component..
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OK Cool! I will try to get it all done this weekend, if I can get the breakers...Could I just connect to two of the already existing 110 breakers as long as I am not using them on other stuff at the same time? The breakers are hard to find here for the zinsco panels apparently, its really old.
Take a breaker out, And take it to the local hardware whatever, a lot of times these newer company's will have the same mounting as a old one, you may find a match, brand name is not necessary if the breaker fits the box it will work...
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:police: NO!!!! :police:
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causing a phase imballance or worse a phase shift (upsetting the phases) by not knowing what you are doing or using (slightly) the wrong part will result in a FIRE!!!!
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With American power you are not gonna cause no Phase imbalance, And with american boxes you do not need the same brand to do the job, many times manufactures will have breakers adequate for older boxes... I am no electrical guru, I have ran a lot of fricken wire in my time, I have wired an entire house with about 80 different circuits and passed electrical code on the first call... Goto home depot and get "wiring for dummies" It is rather simple just use caution and ask questions if you are not certain...
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Zinsco breakers are pretty common in my area. If you want one let me know and send me a picture of one of your existing ones. They're not cheap though.
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I do beg your pardon. I have no experience with the US power grid, I just "smelled" some nasty concoction of "bastardised two phase".
Sorry.
:nw
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Im with Troj here... electrickery makes me nervous... you cant see it sneaking up on ya...... :-[
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Unless I'm reading this wrong the info is wrong.
Which part is wrong..
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Bug, you keep saying "phase" when you really mean "leg". ;DHomes are almost always single phase with two hot legs. You have to balance the loads in the panel so you don't overload one leg. Doing so will trip both sides of the main and you will be in the dark.
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Yes leg... You are correct, you can not generate 220 from 1 leg, it has to pull 110 from each leg...
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On my Square D panel they are not.That is IMO one of those yes and no things. Each side of a double pole/220 breaker is only 110 adding up to 220 and a person COULD run 2 separate 110 legs from it BUT the circuit interupting ability would be effed up ---I think ;D Other than that I agree.
SO what was wrong?
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Unless I misread what you said it's the part in red. If you pull all the breakers you will find that every other breaker on the left side of the panel are on a different leg. Same goes for the ones on the right side. the ones adjacent to each other vertically are on different legs just as the ones adjacent to each other horizontally are on different legs. Therefore the ones adjacent horizontally COULD be used to get the 220 . It won't pass code that way but it will work.*
*I don't THINK it would anyway.
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I think you will find the adjacent breaker horizontally is on the same leg... ;D Vertically they are seperate...
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg1.classistatic.com%2Fcps%2Fl%2Fkj%2F09%2F4%2F26%2F503%2Fr1%2F9896fm5_20.jpeg&hash=43f63a9f69fb9c5aa0141ae592f41f7ea5ac1bec)
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I'll be damned.What brand box is that? I stand corrected on that box there.
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I'll be damned.What brand box is that? I stand corrected on that box there.
Square D... :)
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Homeline or standard? The reason I ask is because on my regular Sq.D is that the bus legs are not staggered like that. Maybe my memory fails me tho and if so you are correct that the breakers used would have to be staggered horizontally if it is of the configuration that you show in the pic. Regardless adjacent vertically will be correct on either one.
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yes, regardless you just have to tap both legs for 220... :)
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bottom line is ,yep,that's correct.
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Thanks for the help guys! Hey can I check the Volts with my volt meter to verify I got it right? It has AC mode should this work? I don't want to fry my MIG!!
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Yes you can check the voltage...
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Put one lead of voltmeter into each leg in the receptacle and it should read 220 +- a bit.
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Great! I will try to pick up the necessary wire and stuff this week and get it hooked up this weekend!
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oh my god... is that allowed over there in the US of A? Home electrical?
Whiplash, do you want flowers at the service or donations to some buggy fund....??
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Well, its not like its any more dangerous than my 250 AMP TIG welder! Lean on the table with a little sweat on your arms and maybe a slip of the tungsten to the workpiece and you WILL know it!!!! Knocked me OUT of my CHAIR! LOL!
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Well, its not like its any more dangerous than my 250 AMP TIG welder! Lean on the table with a little sweat on your arms and maybe a slip of the tungsten to the workpiece and you WILL know it!!!! Knocked me OUT of my CHAIR! LOL!
isnt it???
I dotn know ANYTHING about your electrical systems... ours is 240 volts with up to 15 amps... a good charge of this will easily KILL you.... thats why I reared back in horror when all this advice started flowing and then contradicting and then.. and then...
We have a VERY healthy aversion to any wires and ONLY licensed tradespeople can touch any of it.... (cept my father who is still alive today...god knows how....... but thanks to him anyway (god that is)....) :police:
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15 amps? hell we pull 230 up to 60 amps on a single circuit, Most panels in the home now days are fused with a 200 amp service...
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so? Do I need to ask the question again?
Gee..I can see it all now...the lawyers are winding up whiplash's estate and in doing so they interrogate his computer... and on it they find the advice that led to his getting fried.... mmmm..... thinks the lawyer...I see a way of making lotsa dinero......
lets see..... bug and fabr.... shouldnt be too hard to track down.... yeah you would probably beat it but.. how much would it cost to do so????
Litigation land ... :P
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You worry too much.I used to think I'd like to live in the land of Oz but the more I read about how the guv controls your lives I'm not too sure. When are they going to outlaw you building buggies?
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I really ought to add that Artie has a good point. But on the other hand I think we have all learned to do a lot of equally dangerous stuff and not given it a second thought.I also need to add that if a person does not know how to check if a circuit is live or dead then that person should stay away from doing their own electrical.
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Well that is simple enough, if you touch it and it's live, you're dead ;D
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No,no,no, test THEN touch! gg:
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Put your tongue on that wire Artie... I want to see if it has power ;D :P
ff:
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LOL! You guys crack me up! ;D Thanks again, I will be doing this tomorrow, and I'll take pics of the burns! HAHA!
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Put your tongue on that wire Artie... I want to see if it has power ;D :P
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Ok.... wired my house years ago for a new phone system. checking continuity was easy, tongue on wire, slight tingle, all good. Testing it when the phone actually rang........
Very low voltage suddenly runs to fairly high voltage..... damn that hurt... :P
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No wonder you're afraid of electricity! Hehehheheheheee. Damn man! 8) Do you still talk funny?
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Do you still talk funny?
I AM an Aussie! ::)
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LOL, I WAS going to say that but figured you might for me! Heheheheheheeee
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Well, I had a tough weekend, not wiring yet as I got stuck doing house chores on the new house all dat Saturday and then with fathers day on Sunday I got stuck there too, so its gonna be this weekend I hope!!! Maybe I will just get my electrician to get it done for me!
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Maybe I will just get my electrician to get it done for me!
He he he... smartest thing Ive heard on here for a while.... ;)
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Check Craigslist for guys looking for side work. Likley less than you think. I just had a spa wierd that way - the guy knew his stuff and was fair on his price. You can tell from speaking with him if he knows his stuff.
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Well I do a lot of re-models so I have a guy that does stuff for me I was just trying to be cheap! LOL! I an having him do it this sunday for 60 bucks plus materials! Good enough for me and it will be done right! Best of all I don't have to do it! LOL!