first step of new build

[dsrace]

took the pics with my cell phone so they are kindof shitty lol but it does sit low. the bottom of the center cassette of the turbo is above the top of my oil pan gasket. the bottom of the oil return fitting is level with the oil pan gasket prob about a 4.5" to 5" drop to an 10 builk head fitting in the oil pan. i went with 10 return line because of what i read on the bushing style turbo's. i was trying to find info on oil feed restrictors  and all i could find was about ball bearing but did finally find a few on bushing style. it said no restrictor is needed but if you see a little smoke from the oil through the turbo that you simply need a larger id return line. i do have a banjo fitting on top of the turbo feeding it that is more restrictive than a straight an 4 line feed which is the other end of the feed line but decided to go ahead with an 10 return line to be safe i guess. the return line does not go horizontal but the bulk an 10 fitting in the oil pan which is where all this style turbo's go that i can find and in the online instructions from other companies, it does point down because of the angle of the oil pan. i think/hope i have enough drop along with large enough return line this isn't an issue. those instructions also say to pull the oil filter and remove or drill out the oil restrictor. those instructions also are telling you to block off the oil cooler ports to delete the oil cooler. so i found several posts on hayabusa.org  stating that is only needed if you delete the oil cooler and if you don't then leave it in there. a couple guys said they have done it both ways with oil cooler and saw no effect either way. i kept my oil cooler and even went larger as seen in the pic so i kept the restrictor just because.

i know several aren't a fan of fmu's  but it is the cheapest way to try this in my case with limited time. so i purchased this newer style one from schnitz. 
http://store.schnitzracing.com/rcc-billet-raising-rate-fuel-pressure-regulator/      and a 320 lph fuel pump   http://store.schnitzracing.com/aem-320-lph-high-flow-in-tank-fuel-pump-suzuki-gsx1300r-hayabusa-01-15/   to feed the system. i don't plan on going higher than 8 lbs hell i will be happy with 6lbs to be honest. this will be interesting and enemy said he would help tune it  now it is still an fmu but better than they used to be and many have used this companies and seem to be ok with them or atleast aren't posting anything bad about them but we know how that goes too lol

[dsrace]

anyone wondering about the instructions here is a link to an interesting set 

http://suzukihayabusa.org/Ghetto_Install2.pdf

[dsrace]

Damnit now you've ruined the surprise!!  Now get off outer and back to garage. Less than 4 weeks!   

quit reminding me about that lol hell i forgot a few small pieces so they won't be here till april 3rd!! lol i hope to get the motor back in this weekend and start building the exh. now that everyone is out of the hospital and on the mend around here ....wow

[fabr]

You will be throwing that FMU in the trash before long if it uses a metal shim like all the others. Hope it doesn't eff up and burn your motor down. FMU's are junk. Did I mention I wouldn't ever try using one ever again? Did it seem like I hate them? LOL!!!!!

[dsrace]

You will be throwing that FMU in the trash before long if it uses a metal shim like all the others. Hope it doesn't eff up and burn your motor down. FMU's are junk. Did I mention I wouldn't ever try using one ever again? Did it seem like I hate them? LOL!!!!!

now that you meantion it i do believe i remember you whispering about that lol well i am going to give it a shot and i haven't taken it apart to find out and it prob is like the others but i can say it is a whole lot thinner and flatter than all the others i have seen. plus adjustable instead of changing springs.

[dsrace]

http://www.ozzy.net/jdscott/hayabusa/documents/RCC%20Turbos%20-%20Stage%201%20Turbo%20Install%20-%20Suzuki%20Hayabusa%20-%20Gen%201.pdf

another set of good instructions

[fabr]

I just quick scanned them and seems like a good set. Were they?

[dsrace]

I just quick scanned them and seems like a good set. Were they?

i thought they were but i did the pump a little diff......i wanted an in tank pump but other than that better than the ghetto instruction imo

[dsrace]

ok so i have a few pics to add, i did take the rail for two short runs in the back yard tonight.....i like it lol needs some tuning yet but i still like it lol
the first two pics are of the new steel sprocket i bought. i changed the front from a 13 t to a 14 t but stayed 70t on the rear. steel sprocket is only 2 lbs heavier than the aluminum one i had in the second pic you can sort of tell why. the rest of the pics are of the turbo install and frame mod and larger oil cooler and intank fuel pump mod.

[dsrace]

here are 3 pics of the bazzaz tunning system fuel cells. the one pic is how i set the target afr just to take it for a ride to get a foot in for tunning. i went by rcc turbo's site stating they call for 11.5 to 11.8 on afr for stage 1 turbos with there fmu's. i set 0 to 3k rpm to 13 for afr and will tighten and dial in better as i go. just making sure i don't go extremely lean. of course i rebuilt the turbo so it will take a while to break in as well. then a few more pics of the build.

[dsrace]

the bazzaz pic is of 3k to 9k rpm and i only hit 60% throttle but the first pic is of what i set target afr for and the next two pics are of what the auto mapper is suggesting i make changes to to hit  those target afr's. just a start but not a  bad one.

[dsrace]

well for anyone that is putting there own turbo together on a busa...... if your going to use a mitsibishi turbo it is my opinnion now that i have used the one off a gmc typhoon and after talking to hahn that a td05 8cm exh side with a 17c comp side would be right about perfect for up to 8 lbs boost.  for usable boost lower in the rpm range like 4500 start up to 7 k full boost.

[fabr]

If/when I get some irons out of the fire I'll be upping the busa power quite a bit. Some auto tuner will be used for sure. I like what I saw with the newer Microsquirt.

[dsrace]

If/when I get some irons out of the fire I'll be upping the busa power quite a bit. Some auto tuner will be used for sure. I like what I saw with the newer Microsquirt.

+1 here on a winter project

[dsrace]

well i have gotten a little lazy on maintenence and haven't pulled my cv's off for inspection and fresh grease is a couple years or so........well tore them apart over the weekend and there is signs of normal wear imo all except the crack along the outside housing. only one of them cracked. i just sent the pic's to dean at rcv this afternoon and he said they should be shipping me a new one real quick under warranty. they said lifetime warranty when i bought them so i called. he has to show the pics to the person they call there engineer lol lol  anyway i have seen a couple empi cv's do this but never seen nor heard of a better quality part doing it? i can't believe an over tightened bolt could do it afterall there 3/8" fine thread.