Drilling wheels

[Punkur67]

be sure you get the correct angle. I did this once and believe the angle was 82*, Not 60*.

I just saw adapters on pacific customs to go to 60 accorns. How did it work for you doing this.

[fabr]

Just countersink to the same angle as your lugs.My DWT's are like that.Won't harm a thing.

[Boostinjdm]

Do the wheels have a piloted center?  Why not just run regular flange nuts?  Otherwise I think rick was on to something.  Counter bore the holes for the washers and press them in.  Could use a little loctite or someting to keep them in if you are worried about loosing them.

[Engineer]

Standard Acorns are 60deg.

You won't even have to go half way through.

I just made some adapters, and used a 60deg C'sink.  Went down till the hole got the same size as the nut.  I could measure the depth tomorrow.





It looks identical to the lug holes in the Douglas heavy beadlocks.

C'sinks that big are a bit pricey though.

I think the key as with any aluminum wheel is torque it then recheck after a couple miles.

[Punkur67]

What bore diameter bit did you use? What you did is exactly what I was asking to do.

[Engineer]

My studs were 14MM, so that is the size that I drilled through.  On the C'sink, you need to get your lug nuts to know how deep to go.  I got some that had a taper head that was bigger than the hex of the nut, so they could have been C'sinked deeper.  But for the 14mm X 1.5, I couldn't find a nut with that built larger diameter, so I just went as deep as possible, without sinking the hex in the hole.  I was worried about it digging in when torqueing it down.

I am not sure what you mean by bore diameter....  The OD of the C'sink needs to be as big or bigger than the nut.

I can measure the ID, OD, and depth of the C'sink tomorrow.

[Punkur67]

I was asking what diameter the counterbore was. I was thinking 3/4 or 7/8

[Engineer]

Counterbore makes a square bottom hole, C'sink makes a tapered hole.  I believe my C'sink was 1", but it doesn't hurt if it is to big it only matters that it is big enough for the depth your going, because the taper comes clear to the top of the hole.  In order to know the minimum size that you can get away with, measure across the lug nut, tip to tip on the hex if there is no flange.  And as I said if the nut has a larger flange where the taper is, you might want to go larger.

I didn't go off any standard, I just made it to fit the nuts I had.

[Boostinjdm]

Counterbore makes a square bottom hole, C'sink makes a tapered hole. 

Thank you! That was bugging me.

[Punkur67]

Sorry for boing a retard on terms
 

[Engineer]

No prob.  I never knew till I dealt with it everyday.  I just thew it out because it seemed others were unsure as well.  I bought my C'sink from MSC.  I think anyone can order from them on the web.  I use 6 flute chatterless, but they also have 3 flute and single flute.  I have always used a mill to C'sink, so I am not sure which kind would work best with a drill press or hand drill.  Maybe someone else can chime in here.

[fabr]

Single flute works best by hand or drill press.I wouldn.t suggest doing this by hand tho.

[plkracer]

No hand drill with a CS. You need to have the bit nice and sturdy.

[Punkur67]

I have a small press/lathe I can use. They sell them at grainger in many sizes so I think thats where im going.

[fabr]

No hand drill with a CS. You need to have the bit nice and sturdy.

LOL!!!  I've CS thousands of holes with a single flute CS by hand.No problems ever.BUT for this operation I really feel you should do it on a mill using coordinates if you don't have a rotary table. If any one of the 5 are off that one will not tighten properly.Take the wheels to a machine shop and for the same cost as a large CS or barely more they should do the job right for you. WHeels aren't cheap so why take any chances?