DTSFab.com (Desert, Trail and Sand)
Automotive Powered Off Road (AKA: Buggys, Jeeps, Trucks, Etc,Etc. ) => "AP" Member Project Logs => Topic started by: fabr on April 19, 2012, 07:52:32 PM
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If all goes well tomorrow I'll officially be on the way to my long awaited start to build my dream car. I have 2 SBC drag engines with all kinds of goodies in/on them. I'll detune the Rodeck one to a basic outlaw sprint car configuration with FI and run it into a sequential 5 speed torque converter transaxle. More on the transaxle when I find out if I buy the Fortin or the Albins tomorrow. EFFFFFF!!!!!!!! these things are effin pricey even used. DAMN!!!!!!
Not gonna waste my time/money on a Mendi though. GOnna be a 2 seater midengine. Anyone have any pics of their favorite 2 seaters? I favor the mose cars but am open to suggestions.
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There is a blue LS1 mid Tatum that has been for sale awhile. Super nice. Here is a green counter part in Subaru. Having a hard time finding the blue one.
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.tatummotorsports.com%2Fimages%2FMidEngine_2seat_DSC_0004.jpg&hash=3ccbc7c5f5df54a1aaa9b30113613b8f125e57de)
Mosebilt also makes a very cool mid two. He can likely tell you some pitfalls to aoid and may have one sitting around - i know not your style, but worth a call.
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.duneguide.com%2Fimages%2FMid-Engine-Shootout-48.jpg&hash=656ea359594fcc8d5641f43e7aa3477c869122e1)
Call Kevin McMullin of McMullian off road for insight on Albins vs. Fortin. Some Albins had very small screws that would come out leaving a 7k rebuild every other trip - he has lots of insight from the off road boys on both makes.
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Ya, I like BOTH of those. The Albins is a bit more money but I get all kinds of pros and cons on both the Fortin and the Albins. Seems like most things,ya either hate 'em or love "em. Not much middle ground with opinions.
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Call Kevin - he has no axe to grind with either. Works on em both. Might have insight re: Partsm etc. They are both lots of coin.
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Possibly have a contact number for a lazy ass? ;D ;D
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http://www.kevinmcmullenracing.com/ (http://www.kevinmcmullenracing.com/)
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Can't go wrong with the Mosebilt 2 seat look. That black one you had as an avatar was perfect IMO.
Are you starting from scratch on frame design etc?
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Pretty much. Gonna put the VMC to use on things like A arms and such in billet Ally. I really like the A/H/Y ,whatever you want to call it, rear suspension I have. Unless someone convinces me otherwise OR I have bad luck at St Anthony's with the design it will be on this car. I DOOOOO like that black Mosebilt car also. Might need to take Yummis advise and see if he has one laying around. If he did without any rear suspension on it yet it might be a good possibility to consider as a platform to start from. That approach though seems to always bite me in the ass. Too many compromises. I'm getting SOOOOOO confused! LOL!
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Side View. Problem is doing a arm rear is the shock top mount would be about a foot farther rearward. It'd change the look a good bit but that is the caae with any existing design out there.
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Serious? Five link? No. Too much power. Stick with tried and true. Do the whole trailing arm thing and be done with it.
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Side View. Problem is doing a arm rear is the shock top mount would be about a foot farther rearward. It'd change the look a good bit but that is the caae with any existing design out there.
Yep, I really like that one.
It would only make sense to have the shocks straight above the arms. It will change the look big time.
You could leave the shocks there and add a linkage to the arms. Or lay them down across the middle with or without linkage.
Need to think about that a bit.
Are you adverse to some of those 4" shocks with a higher ratio, like a 10" travel shock with 2:1 ratio. Otherwise your gonna have a tall tower.
Or follow Yummis wise advice.
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Serious? Five link? No. Too much power. Stick with tried and true. Do the whole trailing arm thing and be done with it.
;) not my style. ;D ;D The A arms,imo ,are tried and true and with fewer disadvantages to the driveline.
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Lots of time yet,sort of,many ideas may change.
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Take a look here for some shock mount ideas....
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimage.trucktrend.com%2Ff%2F8509932%2F163_0208_05z%2B2003_kia_sorento_trophy_truck%2Bsuspension_view.jpg&hash=e406c74a1bb394c3b99eff3a0fcd2a379cb789ab)
http://www.trucktrend.com/roadtests/performance/163_0208_2002_kia_truck/index.html (http://www.trucktrend.com/roadtests/performance/163_0208_2002_kia_truck/index.html)
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hmmmmmm.................I'm thinking.................
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;) not my style. ;D ;D The A arms,imo ,are tried and true and with fewer disadvantages to the driveline.
+1 I'm not a fan of trailing arms myself. this is going to be a damn nice project!!
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Ya,trailing arms are tough as nails but too many compromises. To me, the only small drawback to a arms is they won't jump over a stump or rock as well as trailing arms will. Well then why not ta suspension on the front? LOL!!!! IMO, if the front a arms make it over an obstacle than the rears will also. The adjustability of a arms vs the nearly non adjustable ta's is a no brainer to me.
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Hmmm.....
Take a look here
http://www.glamisdunes.com/invision/index.php?showtopic=217534&hl= (http://www.glamisdunes.com/invision/index.php?showtopic=217534&hl=)
here
http://www.glamisdunes.com/invision/index.php?showtopic=255724&hl= (http://www.glamisdunes.com/invision/index.php?showtopic=255724&hl=)
and here.
http://www.glamisdunes.com/invision/index.php?showtopic=261967&hl= (http://www.glamisdunes.com/invision/index.php?showtopic=261967&hl=)
Mosebilt built a rear a arm car for multi-purpose use. Seems like it handles rocks just fine?
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damn those are nice pics!!
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I truly believe in the superiority of a arms. Just because TA's are the favored way to go currently doesn't mean there's not a better way.
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The torsion bars are IMO a thought well worth thinking seriously about. Always a progressive rate. Easily adjustable ride height. Low center of mass. Change bar diameter if needed and much easier than pulling a coil over off to change springs. Makes shock position easier to do.
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Plus Fabr's new love, NP 930's are just about a nono with TA's. Just build rake into rear A-arms if you want to go over stumps.
So I would really like to see this thing, really need to get your butt in gear for test rides at fall trip. ;D
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LOL!!!! FALLL!!???!!!???? LOL!!!!!
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Wtih that kind of engine and power I would look at a sand rocket type design. The cheap tranny should be a selling point alone.
Heck find somone on Glamis dunes with one and fly out there and test drive it. You might be surprised how much you like it!
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Here is one I have always liked.
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.fullblownkustoms.com%2Fimages%2Fproject%2Fdscn4%28small%29.JPG&hash=62cf567157f65e23079ddad07f00dd8ab15fb17c)
www.hotrailssandcars.com (http://www.hotrailssandcars.com)
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No front engine for me. Sandy,what car is that?
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www.hotsandrails.com (http://www.hotsandrails.com)
http://www.fullblownkustoms.com/projects/show/301 (http://www.fullblownkustoms.com/projects/show/301)
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The torsion bars are IMO a thought well worth thinking seriously about. Always a progressive rate. Easily adjustable ride height. Low center of mass. Change bar diameter if needed and much easier than pulling a coil over off to change springs. Makes shock position easier to do.
I am putting a bar in my buggy. I like to slide into a turn and then nail it out.
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Hmmm.....
Take a look here
http://www.glamisdunes.com/invision/index.php?showtopic=217534&hl= (http://www.glamisdunes.com/invision/index.php?showtopic=217534&hl=)
here
http://www.glamisdunes.com/invision/index.php?showtopic=255724&hl= (http://www.glamisdunes.com/invision/index.php?showtopic=255724&hl=)
and here.
http://www.glamisdunes.com/invision/index.php?showtopic=261967&hl= (http://www.glamisdunes.com/invision/index.php?showtopic=261967&hl=)
Mosebilt built a rear a arm car for multi-purpose use. Seems like it handles rocks just fine?
Ahhh,the essence of inspiration. Great read.Thanx for the link.
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Well,it's off to California tomorrow morning. Bought the Fortin.Pending inspection that is Sunday night.
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Well,it's off to California tomorrow morning. Bought the Fortin.Pending inspection that is Sunday night.
Most people wait untill there a little further along on the build to lay out twenty grand for a trans. Oh no not or faber. LMAO
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Good luck and enjoy the trip.
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4 approx 12 hour days...........................
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LOL!!! FAST,you KNOW me better than that! LOL!!!! Starting a build without getting the high outlay stuff out of the way first is just bass ackwards to me. Gotta have it in hand to design around it. ;) ;) ;D ;D
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Well,it's off to California tomorrow morning. Bought the Fortin.Pending inspection that is Sunday night.
Where in California ?
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North east LA area
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Gonna get there Sunday night,get tranny Mon morning and bonzai back.
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North east LA area
Other side of town from me. Could be 30 miles could be 100 miles. LA is a big place. Got a city? You're welcome to crash here if you want.
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Another favorite:
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fsandrailfab.org%2Fassets%2FSandRail%2520Models%2FM_Car_SE_mod.jpg&hash=719683e0f91704f63df43308063413ffdebd15c4)
http://sandrailfab.org/ (http://sandrailfab.org/)
http://youtu.be/DesgK_EG2vo (http://youtu.be/DesgK_EG2vo)
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Are you already over the turbo busa? I have been thinking about doing a mid engine v8 with a shortened c4 and a quick change 9" that has cv flanges. Been talking to my friends about machining the stuff to make it happen. I could do the whole drivetrain for less than the s4 I want to do.
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4 approx 12 hour days...........................
====twenty grand for a trans. Oh no not or faber. LMAO
Lol. Lol. This is gonna be sick. jj: jj: jj:
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Are you already over the turbo busa? I have been thinking about doing a mid engine v8 with a shortened c4 and a quick change 9" that has cv flanges. Been talking to my friends about machining the stuff to make it happen. I could do the whole drivetrain for less than the s4 I want to do.
I have looked at every possible configuration, and they always end up 18" longer than the transaxle which drives the wheelbase way up.
The other problem I see is that the 9" has the drive 2.25" above the input shaft, putting the output flanges 10+ inches above the oil pan. It creates problems that only 38" tires fix. ;D
I have considered building a housing for a 9" to run upside down right behind the engine. Run a long input shaft past the diff to the tranny behind it, then a gear box to drop the output of the tranny down to run back under the tranny forward to the diff. Basically a transaxle that can use a semi-stock auto tranny.
Dunno, I haven't seen a great standard auto tranny pulled off yet.
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Lots of alternatives but this will be hard to beat any way other than initial cost.
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The t'bo busa is fun,no doubt about it but it has always been destined to be the wifes car. Another year of debugging it to death hehheheehee and the new car for me should be done. The wife and I can then do the dunes as we wish. Me ,as a fricken idiot, and her as a mild mannered duner.
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I have looked at every possible configuration, and they always end up 18" longer than the transaxle which drives the wheelbase way up.
The other problem I see is that the 9" has the drive 2.25" above the input shaft, putting the output flanges 10+ inches above the oil pan. It creates problems that only 38" tires fix. ;D
I have considered building a housing for a 9" to run upside down right behind the engine. Run a long input shaft past the diff to the tranny behind it, then a gear box to drop the output of the tranny down to run back under the tranny forward to the diff. Basically a transaxle that can use a semi-stock auto tranny.
Dunno, I haven't seen a great standard auto tranny pulled off yet.
Could run a high pinion rear end to fix that. One has not been done YET. ;D Somebody can figure it out, may take a swing at it.
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Could run a high pinion rear end to fix that. One has not been done YET. ;D Somebody can figure it out, may take a swing at it.
Yep, I can't wait to see it. ;D
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Just crossed into Ariz. Effin hot down here in the sun.
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Just crossed into Ariz. Effin hot down here in the sun.
It's friggin gorgeous in the winter though. Welcome to our world !
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sitting in Flagstaff now.
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Just crossed into Ariz. Effin hot down here in the sun.
Your driving! rofl
Ever hear of an airplane? Much faster. Or are you afraid the TSA will show you the love. ;D
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I don't do that shit. That airport crap would give me a heart attack. Flying is fine,the gov BS isn't. Eff em. I can see the country and not be violated .
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Your driving! rofl
Ever hear of an airplane? Much faster. Or are you afraid the TSA will show you the love. ;D
He's afraid TSA would have issues with the big metal package that he wanted to carry on LMAO LMAO
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I don't do that shit. That airport crap would give me a heart attack. Flying is fine,the gov BS isn't. Eff em. I can see the country and not be violated .
Fabr's looks just like his avatar. Once he encountered the TSA he would never be heard from again. LMAO LMAO LMAO
For $500 you'd think you could get a better "felt up" job.
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LOL!!!! You guys are FUNNY!!!!! I'll tell you what though,if I'd have flown out I'd never have seen/driven Hwy 39 just north out of Azusa,Ca. Best damn mountain
trial(Freudian slip) paved trail highway I've ever driven. If you never done it you gotta. Lance,you ever drive it? I'll post some pics later.
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LOL!!!! You guys are FUNNY!!!!! I'll tell you what though,if I'd have flown out I'd never have seen/driven Hwy 39 just north out of Azusa,Ca. Best damn mountain trial(Freudian slip) paved trail highway I've ever driven. If you never done it you gotta. Lance,you ever drive it? I'll post some pics later.
Hope your having a smooth trip. Doesn't that GPS differentiate between 4 lanes and cow paths. ;D
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I was just killing time. Damn cool drive to take if you have time if in the area.
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Wanna know where the highest temperature and highest diesel price was Monday? 103 and 5.29/gal in Needles. DAMN!!!! I didn't even really need fuel. It was 4.18-4.25 EVERYWHERE but in
HELL Needles. I just stopped in to get a pop. Didn't even look at the pump till it was nearly full. 5 effing 29!!!! I did get a free pop with the effing tho. rofl rofl rofl
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Wanna know where the highest temperature and highest diesel price was Monday? 103 and 5.29/gal in Needles. DAMN!!!! I didn't even really need fuel. It was 4.18-4.25 EVERYWHERE but in HELL Needles. I just stopped in to get a pop. Didn't even look at the pump till it was nearly full. 5 effing 29!!!! I did get a free pop with the effing tho. rofl rofl rofl
Don't get out much this way do you? See, had you rolled another 30 miles or so and gotten into Arizona it would have been cheaper.
What flavor was the pop?
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Yup, gotta watch the California side of the border or near the border for that matter. They bend you over :o :o
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Wanna know where the highest temperature and highest diesel price was Monday? 103 and 5.29/gal in Needles. DAMN!!!! I didn't even really need fuel. It was 4.18-4.25 EVERYWHERE but in HELL Needles. I just stopped in to get a pop. Didn't even look at the pump till it was nearly full. 5 effing 29!!!! I did get a free pop with the effing tho. rofl rofl rofl
;) ;D ;D
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Glad to see it's going
well normal. ;D
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Where's the pics? Or did you move to Cali? LMAO LMAO
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NO WAY IN FOOKIN HADES WILL THAT EVER HAPPEN. ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D How about just A pic? ;D ;D
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COOL! ;D ;D ;D
What's the gear ratio's and ring & pinion in that new bundle of joy?
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BADASS!!!!! I'm jealous
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Is the plumbing on the outside of the trans for a hyd. clutch fork?
Did it come with the high torgue starter?
Does it have 930, 934, 934.5 or 935 drive flanges?
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jj: jj: jj: sexy little thing
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COOL! ;D ;D ;D
What's the gear ratio's and ring & pinion in that new bundle of joy?
New reverse hub
> New ring and pinion 3.89
> New 1st gear 3.08
> 2nd gear 2.06
> 3rd gear 1.63
> 4th gear 1.37
> 5th gear 1.2
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Is the plumbing on the outside of the trans for a hyd. clutch fork?
Did it come with the high torgue starter?
Does it have 930, 934, 934.5 or 935 drive flanges?
No the tq converter has to have atf run through it from a small dry sump pump or an additional stage of the engine dry sump can be added for the tq converter fluid. I haven't decided which way I'll go. It came with a small Daly pump that Fortin recommends but I'm dry sumped engines and it would eliminate one belt/pulley PLUS if the belt broke the car would stop and MAYBE save the engine at the same time. Hmmmm
yup
He said 934 but I haven't verified that. Any can be fitted to it.
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jj: jj: jj: sexy little thing
Ya,the 091 is pretty cool without the ugly bellhousing. ;)
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Did I mention that sexy little thing weighs 190 pounds?
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New reverse hub
> New ring and pinion 3.89
> New 1st gear 3.08
> 2nd gear 2.06
> 3rd gear 1.63
> 4th gear 1.37
> 5th gear 1.2
Damn, it's a five speed. VERY COOL! 8) 8) 8)
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No the tq converter has to have atf run through it from a small dry sump pump or an additional stage of the engine dry sump can be added for the tq converter fluid. I haven't decided which way I'll go. It came with a small Daly pump that Fortin recommends but I'm dry sumped engines and it would eliminate one belt/pulley PLUS if the belt broke the car would stop and MAYBE save the engine at the same time. Hmmmm
OK.
Sounds like your going to go ALL OUT! ;D ;D ;D
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Torque converter eh?
Is it air shift or manual?
Is it constant mesh with drive dogs like a motorcycle?
Do you run a motor kill or something for when it shifts?
I am really curious how it works like getting in and out of first or reverse with the converter loading the input shaft.
Very sweet! Give us some details. ;D
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Yes.
Manual.
Yes.
Ignition interrupt.
Shut off engine ,engage reverse,shutoff engine,engage first.IF the engine idles low enough you don't have to kill engine. Most peeps will have to kill engine tho.
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Realistically,it's just a big MC trans in effect.
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Thread of a high horsepower mid with a arm rears....
http://www.glamisdunes.com/invision/index.php?showtopic=87043&st=75 (http://www.glamisdunes.com/invision/index.php?showtopic=87043&st=75)
Video to boot.
http://hotshotracing.com/BIG_Paradigm_Movie.html (http://hotshotracing.com/BIG_Paradigm_Movie.html)
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Yes.
Manual.
Yes.
Ignition interrupt.
Shut off engine ,engage reverse,shutoff engine,engage first.IF the engine idles low enough you don't have to kill engine. Most peeps will have to kill engine tho.
Cool! Sounds like a bad ass go fast setup.
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This will be the bad ass go fast toy for sure. I really want to hit the desert some and ,well,,,,,,,,,,fly. Really the only reason for building this . Gotta find some friends that like desert and maybe the dunes as well now. Of course the run from Gordons well to the Glamis store will always be a BLAST in it!!!!!!!!! Seriously I'm more into the long runs more than the bowls and stuff. Sand hiway at G was a blast to me. Wish we could have run it a few more times.
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Thread of a high horsepower mid with a arm rears....
http://www.glamisdunes.com/invision/index.php?showtopic=87043&st=75 (http://www.glamisdunes.com/invision/index.php?showtopic=87043&st=75)
Video to boot.
http://hotshotracing.com/BIG_Paradigm_Movie.html (http://hotshotracing.com/BIG_Paradigm_Movie.html)
Are you able to view the vid? I can't. Don't have quik time and can't seem to be able to down load QT either.
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Are you able to view the vid? I can't. Don't have quik time and can't seem to be able to down load QT either.
I could see the vid no problem, But GD is fxxked every time I try to log in. The password my computer stores never works and their password recovery tool doesn't work either. Only site I have ever had trouble with and it is trouble every time.
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I can't see it no matter what. BS. Ya,GD site is a PITA to navigate.
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Well,decided I'll not be primarily on dry hardpack as this car will also get used around here so I decided against the BFG Bajas and went with the newer KM2. 35x12.50x17's
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Damn!!!!!!!
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I hate to think what those cost!
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Not nearly as much as the BFG Bajas @ about 600 each. These are the next down the line. If the bajas had a different tread I'd have bought them. These were $325 shipping included. $1300 compared to over $2400 was a no brainer to me.
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Damn!!!!!!!
Got to love big ass tires! ;D ;D ;D
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Well,it's a start. Desert car,gonna get some abuse. 1 3/4 x .120 4130 main tubes with 1.25 x .120 webs in main tub area. ;D ;D Don't laugh ,I like walking away from crashes. ;) ;) Desert car at 100+ mph will like weighing around 3000#'s anyway so the extra .025 wall weight is insignificant,IMO. Should have midboard 934 rear hubs,2" hollow front hubs and snouts,seats,beadlocks, rack,new and more powerful electric power steering here next week. Realistically ,this build should go fairly quickly. Be real nice to hit the desert this winter. Barring any unseen holdups it should be easily done.
Ya,I know, rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO eyes eyes eyes eyes eyes eyes rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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Got the heavy ass Fortin sequential 5 speed mounted. Without torque converter it's approx 185 pounds. I dislike flat tabs unless needed for a bit of flexibility. I take a piece of tube and notch to fit and use a section of .75 x .500 tube or appropriate size for fastener of choice. A lot easier to weld on compared to 2 tabs with a tube welded between. Looks cool also IMO.Of course everything is just tacked in place. Tomorrow will be some diagonals and maybe some upper rear suspension tubes.
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That is a sweet adapter / mid mount plate! :)
But I think the 2" X 6" rectangular frame tubes might be overkill. rofl
Kidding...
Are you doing the frame design as you go or working off a plan?
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Pretty much based off my current car with needed mods for the different drivetrain. The plate is from Fortin,came with trans.
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So the plate is sandwiched between tran and motor? Cool I thought it was just to mockup, and rear of motor held front of trans. Solid mount on motor too? Looks good. Makes it faster with all the right tools, off the shelf parts, oh and the fact you know what your doing helps too. ;D
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There's actually 2 adapters there. There's a 1" spacer that is needed to run the torque converter and the black one is the motor/trans adapter since the fortin uses a non OEM pattern. It's only a 11.75" diameter bellhousing. Damn glad too since the small diameter bell housing will allow tranny to slide out the rear between suspension mounts making life/maintenance a lot easier than current buggy where engine must be pulled to get trans out. Yes the trans/engine is all solid mounted. I'm trying to use almost no one off parts on this car. Plenty that can't be bought at the local parts store unfortunately but not one offs either. There's plenty of parts on these things we build that has to be fabbed as it is.
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Speaking of fabbing.............. I based my seart sliders on the very coo, IMO ,ones that Mosebilt sells. Only reason I didn't buy his is because he doesn't stock them and I'm impatient. I also think my idea for the adjuster will be much nicer but you' will have to wait till the pieces get here to complete Tuesday.
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Got nearly all of the bottom layer done this week end and the seats mounted. Should see suspension components this coming week.
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Looking good Wes. Going to have it done for Glamis this year?
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Thanks. Most likely will be done minus body for G..
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Thanks. Most likely will be done minus body for G..
Don't need no stinking body for Glamis. rofl rofl
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YOU might like the cold morning air up your pants leg but........................................ Oh! WAIT!!!! I have seat heaters now. LOL!!!!!! IF all goes well I might have body done then but,as you say,no reason not to take it naked. rofl
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YOU might like the cold morning air up your pants leg but........................................ Oh! WAIT!!!!I use Duct Tape I have seat heaters now. LOL!!!!!! IF all goes well I might have body done then but,as you say,no reason not to take it naked. rofl
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And quite the fashion statement you are !!!!!
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And quite the fashion statement you are !!!!!
Ya here's the prof. LMAO LMAO
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Good thing you posted that up. If you hadn't I would have!!!! LOL!!
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Fast, could be related to Duck Tape Wally!!
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Fast, could be related to Duck Tape Wally!!
rofl rofl rofl rofl LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl
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Fast, could be related to Duck Tape Wally!!
Na Fast don't use enough duct tape for that. thumb down
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Soooo,you don't buy it by the case then? ;D ;D ;D
One of you guys have to tell the story.
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master things are looking great ,the full plate will empty. you sure are building things must people @ i dream to be able to do. keep on building also duck tape can be use silent the story teller
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also duck tape can be use silent the story teller
rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl
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Fast you really should get a diff color of tape. Silver stands out lime a sore thumb. Mcguyver was best duck tape guy ever.
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THANKS,DEANO I have been fortunate and really enjoy sharing the builds. If I could do this and make even minimum wage I'd give the boy the keys to the store and just hibernate in the shop.
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Well,here's the seat adjusters and sliders. I gotta say they work smooth as silk. Gonna be nice being able to EASILY adjust seat for passengers. Don't know why I did an adjuster on the drivers side since there's not a chance in hell of anyone ever driving it but me unless I'm off to the hospital. nono nono nono ;D ;D ;D ;D I think I really like this way. These types of things really suck up the hours but the payoff later is worth every minute in the end.
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You did a slider on the drivers side because you are smart like that and know that sooner or later it will be sold, etc.
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Naw,it'll never sell. I have only sold 2 toys ever. I tend to keep what I build or burn it whichever comes first..........................
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kick rofl BBQ. I like them and probably much easier to adjust once exposed to sand and mud. Whats with the line of holes in the front to back tube of seat? I thought you were going to drop a pin in those for adjustment.
And I'm :'( :( :'( that your not gonna let us test drive it. Enemy's gonna take it bad. LMAO LMAO
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Fast you really should get a diff color of tape. Silver stands out lime a sore thumb. Mcguyver was best duck tape guy ever.
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Ahhhhh,Christmas season in July has begun. ;D ;D front 2" hollow hubs and 934 rear midboards came today. 4 piston fronts and massive 6 piston rears.
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nice Christmas anyone would enjoy i was wondering what caused the cool breeze from the south
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keep being good master so santa keeps finding you ???
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Yep rofl rofl rofl rofl
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Hmmmmmmm.................... I think I'm gonna go for it.The car will be street legal and ,welll....do we drive non AC cars on the street?????? I think NOT!!!!! Woohoo,street legal and A/C and heat. Not cheap but a lot less than I expected. I apparently left the perfect space for it in the chassis,all purely by accident. 1/2" to clear all obstacles. Must be kharma. ;D ;D Gotta check to see if the Jesel cam belt drive will clear though.
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Cadillac, Cadillac
Long and dark shiny and black
Open up your engines let `em roar
Tearing up the highway like a big old dinosaur
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Problem with Christmas in July is Santa is wearing a swimsuit. Ewwwww.....
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.chumpysclipart.com%2Fimages%2Fillustrations%2Fxsmall2%2F3109_picture_of_a_santa_lookalike_on_the_beach_wearing_sunglasses.jpg&hash=f85e31a08e81aeca32a295381780f6925c96acf5)
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WHat's in store if it's August?
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WHat's in store if it's August?
He ditches the swim suit and just comes in underwear. Hope September cools down. rofl
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fis03.thegumtree.com%2Fimage%2Fbig%2F101621823.jpg&hash=b13f2a600c8b7b50014eaf2ad25cb32a30b82774)
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I knew I shouldn't have asked.................
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Dang Yummi, thats a good pic of you. ;)
A/c, thats a feature that gets my attention! You going A/H arms in rear again?
Of course I'm refering to the first Santa pic. ;D
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Dang Yummi, thats a good pic of you. ;)
A/c, thats a feature that gets my attention! You going A/H arms in rear again?
Of course I'm refering to the first Santa pic. ;D
yes!and yes.
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He ditches the swim suit and just comes in underwear. Hope September cools down. rofl
That's just WRONG Yummi 3:
Had to delete the pic :c, couldn't take seeing it again
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LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO
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Had to delete the pic :c, couldn't take seeing it again
That's for sure. :m :m :m
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Is it me or do these two look like same person? LMAO LMAO LMAO
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Top is a Glamis or St.A pic. Bottom one is at work.
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Well,things have about gotten back to normal. Welder repaired,water jet guy got off his ass,work slowed to a manageable madhouse and so I got the front uprights welded and the rear midboard A/Y arm yokes welded up. Time to get the front and rear arms bent and welded.
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Looks fantastic. Guess I need to study mid-boards more, is that the cv joint in 1st pic? Up inside the hub.
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That it is.
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The buried, mid board mounted ,cv allows a few extra inches axle length. That makes for a bit less cv angle at full droop and also a longer axle will twist a bit more than a shorter axle giving a small amount more shock absorbing capability. Every little bit helps.
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SWEET looking setup! ;D ;D ;D ;D
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any thing happen on desert car to up date
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Unfortunately I got extremely busy at work,the house finally is coming out of the ground and the new toterhome needed a few minor things attended to and upgraded to my liking such as sat tv while going down the road and have not touched the desert car for about a month now. I should be back on it in another week or 2 though. Going to the lake in the toter Saturday to clear my head. Been WAAAYYYYY too much going on.
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OK,FINALLY got a few hours work in. Got the rear a arms tacked up today. A bit of plate wirk to be done yet. I should be 96" outside of tire to outside of tire using desert tires. Of course the camera was dead eyes ...................... Pics tomorrow.
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Not much but it's been so slow lately it's better than nothing. ;D ;D Camera angle really screwed with the 2nd one. The mid board plate is not angled as it appears.
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WOW Very nice tubework!
Interesting how you slice it after the bends so you can get the fishmouth clocking just right..... I just learned something :)
Or is that a white line?
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It's a white paint line I mark all tubes with. Much easier to see. I get the clocking right in the bender or it gets set aside to be cut up for something shorter. Clocking is not too hard if the bender is plumb to the earth. Otherwise it's impossible,IMO.
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I just noticed you said fishmouth clocking. The fishmouth clocking is done with careful marking. I setup the bends with bendtech,cut to near final size,put in place and mark centerline of fishmouth. LOL!!!! I don't know about anyone else but I get about 95% on the mark.
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looks good. I can't tell from the pic but does the lower arm and on the front side of it, does that pitch forward?
I like mid engine btw! ;D
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Didn't quite follow that but the arms are parallel in all directions.
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There IS a 3.125" offset in the front bar of the lower arm ,if that's what you meant. That is to make for a better mount placement for the shock. Upper arm front bar is straight to allow shock body /spring clearance.
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actually i was referring to like a 45* pitch forward for lateral support or load on the lower arm.
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Are the rear uprights basically finished parts?
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actually i was referring to like a 45* pitch forward for lateral support or load on the lower arm.
WHatever 3.125 over 29 inches is is all. I see no need for that. The lower arms have approximately a 20" spread at the frame. Much more than most a arm cars I have seen.
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Are the rear uprights basically finished parts?
Yes,all 4130 and will be heat treated (normalized).
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Ds,here's a few pics showing the orientation of the arms better. I hope. :) The cardboard tube represents the coilover location. I MAY decide to go ahead and bite the bullet and run a bypass on the rear tube of rear arm. That's why the bend in the rear tube of the top arm. WTH,it's only money,right ? ??? Sarcasm Effin shocks are $$$$$$$$$$$ and the bigger they are................................welllllll,you guys know. BTW,that axle mockup is 36"
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Question: How do you normalize the arms when done? In doing some reading they need to be heated to 700*. There is also discussion on having to put the part in a jig to prevent distortion while heating and cooling? I need to add a couple of parts to my trailing arms and trying to learn if I need to find a way to normalize them. The arms were prebuilt from a company in AZ so pretty sure they have already been heated once.
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Crack personally I would suggest you just add whatever needs to be added and not try to (normalize) anything.
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I don't do anything to the arms.
Here is a link to a very interesting read about 4130 as it pertains to aircraft tubular structures. A good bit of useful info in it and worth the time to read.
http://www.2wings.com/m12/faq/weld.htm (http://www.2wings.com/m12/faq/weld.htm)
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Finally got some time the last couple weeks to do some work on the car. I bought the Performance Trends Suspension Analyzer a few years ago and was a bit disappointed ,to say the least, but I thought I'd try the updated version and all I can say is the thing rocks now! I toyed with about a bazillion different combinations at will and came up with a very nice camber/caster curve over 24" travel and should have zero bump steer. Mounting rack and steering arm remains as can be seen. Anyway I took all the info ,transferred it to CAD and went to see laser guys. The camber/caster curves are spot on the design values. I gotta give the Suspension Analyzer from Performance Trends high marks for the precision product they have now. A few pics of arms roughed in awaiting steering arms .
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Dam thats a lot of welding on those spindles!
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All waterjet cut ,keyed assembly,all 3/16" 4130 tigged with hollow spindles. 1 3/4x.120 4130 tube a arms. Triangulation to be added to arms and frame.
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Ive had a couple customers crash at Glamis and where they bend is the very bottom where they bolt to the lower arms, basically the spindle stub stops while the rest of the car wants to keep going forward. Bends the fore and aft sides but doesnt hurt anything else. I would add doublers where the bolts go thru to where ever the lower boxed section is.
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I understand. These are upsized copies of the ones on current car. Darted about 30 foot drop,tore off a wheel and upright. Twisted the crap out of upright but lower ears were fine. Lots of stuff can/does happen in crashes though.
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Made a bit of progress on frame this weekend. Been busy getting engine/accessory drives/etc. ready so car was on back burner the last couple weeks. Waiting for a few parts for engine so had time for chassis. A few pics. Still way more to be done ,of course.
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Even with full body ,the visibility out of this car is going to be fantastic. Pics don't really seem to show that. I'll get a pic tomorrow sitting in drivers seat and a tarp over frame showing that.
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Visibility is overrated. Get a dash board Jesus, a rabbit's foot, a four leaf clover and go for it.
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The car I have now needs that stuff just like your bug!!!!! Nice ,isn't it?
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We went and did some desert running Saturday. Fun times. I am thinking the desert will grow on me quite a bit. Something for you to look forward to.
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When does the fall season begin? I'll be ready . I know for sure I'm gonna love the desert.
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Same as dunes. Plan October. Also, can run in AM locally and be back home in AC in September. There is always higher elevation running during the summer.
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PLEASE ,keep me updated when you have any plans for a trip. I'll try my best to make it if that would be OK? Just about any time would be good for me as this car is AC'ed as well as heated.
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Just let me know when you are ready. We can find a place. Arizona is a big place. Currently I don't think the tarp will hold up as a hood?
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LOL!!! Thanks for the offer! I'm sure we can have some fun with as the wife and I will both have a car and can ride as we wish. Think we can talk Fast into joining in ? LOL!!!!!!
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That spiffy paint job of his would get trashed. In then minutes of running I bashed more bush than a drunken frat boy.
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There ya go! The very reason I don't do fancy smancy paint jobs.
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It will buff out. Besides it is kind of fun. Then find the open areas and get on it, pitch it sideways on the fire roads, etc. All good so far
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Buff? Surely ,you jest!
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Naw, gets shinny, gets dirty, that's how it is
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gets dirty,stays dirty till rain. LOL!!!!!
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We go to car shows, etc. Draws a crowd for certain. Whole new level of fun for us with the car. Hence the shiney
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Hehehheeee,just effin with ya! LOL!!
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A few updated pics. Got some more bars in ,not all till shocks and bypasses show up in a few days . I think I'll be able to carry approx 32 gallons of E85 or whatever. AC/heater tucks nicely in in front of passenger. I was getting a bit worried for a while.
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looking good ,always great master ;D :D
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+1 on that!
What is the ac out of? Or is it a built unit from like Vintage Air?
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Thanks,deano. Enemy,it's a VintageAir magnum unit,their biggest. Nice setup and I was able to make a mandrel that fits inside of the VA accessory drive to drive the dry sump/torque converter pump all nice and tidy. It did necessitate a small compromise in the chassis due to needing just an inch and a half more clearance with the dry sump stuff. Oh well,do you see where? It's a tight fit removing engine.
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I was wondering if that one cross tube, chest high in back, was removeable. The car looks great and I believe you said it was sizewise on scale with the busa one? Love that mid engine look, way more than the ass dragger style.
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No,it's not removable. Don't really like to use removable tubes if at all possible not to. No offense to the tail dragger cars but I agree with you Carl.Approximately 20" longer wheelbase than the busa car. The 20" extra is in the engine bay area.
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OH HAPPY DAY! I just got shipping confirmation on the Brodix intake manifold for the canted valve small block Chevy I'm using. Just in time too! Taking off the sheetmetal 2 carb tunnel ram intake and in the name of simplicity decided to use the Brodix intake developed by Brodix for these heads in sprint car use several years ago. Even though the LS stuff has taken over pretty much on the tracks these heads/engines make as much as or more good HP. I was beginning to believe I might be having to weld one up though as I've been waiting for about 3 months now. Brodix is the only maker of cast intakes for these heads. I've got a bit more done but ,as usual ,been a bit lax in pic taking. If all goes well it will be sitting on all fours by end of next week or first of the following also since the coilovers will be here Tuesday. I would really ,really like to make it's first long trip be to St.A this fall.
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Looks great! Love the mid engine look in the rear with your tube layout. With the Brodix manifold for single carb are you going to use some type of fuel injection?
A/C... ;D
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Thanks,engineer. For now it will be true carb. E85 for summer,race gas in cold weather. Gotta keep the heater working as well as the AC!!!! I am beginning to really like the look myself. I think when I get pics up with the shocks mounted the look will really come together AND be geometrically "correct" also.
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Has anyone here heard of the "poor mans fuel injection" ? Seems to work pretty well for those running carbs in the rough/steep stuff.
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You need a predator. ;D
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Not for this application,at this point. I'm wanting simple,translated as , something I don't have to learn a thing about . My brain is hurting as it is. LOL!!
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Fabr that think looks bad ass! Some really nice work there.
What do you think the final weight will be?
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Thanks. I target 3000 pounds +/- . I'd be happy with 3000-3200#'s.
tubing 800#
hubs f&r 200#
wheels/tires(heavy mofos) 500#
transaxle 200#
engine 600#
seats 120#
shocks/bypasses/coils 250#
fuel tanks/dry sump stuff 150#
That's over 2800ish # right there with a wild ass guesses at weights
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IDK about poor mans fuel injection but there is a carb float trick that the guys with Big Blocks use that will solve your concerns.
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Is it the one where the float bowl plug screws are replaced with hose barbs,connected to a small sump and pump to return overfill from side hills or steeps to the tank preventing flooding? The one recently mentioned @ GD?
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Could be.
http://www.glamisdunes.com/invision/index.php?showtopic=155099&hl= (http://www.glamisdunes.com/invision/index.php?showtopic=155099&hl=)
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Thanks,that's the one. I couldn't find it.
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There was a big article on this in Sand Sports way back in the eighties or nineties for the Webber 48's. What they did though is remove the floats,needle and seats and put a dam inside the bowl that was the height that you wanted your fuel level to be. Then drilled and tapped the bowl below the dam for the suction of the pump to pull the fuel out. This was a poor man fuel injection. You do not want the floats and needle and seats in the carbs. That screws things up. You took the needle and seats and put a tube that went to the bottom of the bowl so the fuel did not foam going in. I did this with a set of 48's on a corvair and it ran great. The fuel goes in the very bottom of the bowl, fills to the what use to be flow level then up and over the dam and then out of the bowl. Mite mention that the evac pump must handle more then the inbound pump can put out.
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This makes a LOT of sense. I have 2 of the Holley 830 gas carbs. I might just try this on one. If it works on it I'd be likely to do the same to the E85 850 carb. Fast,due to how the float bowls are made on a Holley, the same thing would be accomplished by just removing the float,fabbing the tube from the fuel inlet to bowl bottom(likely need a restriction of some kind though,IMO to allow for big pump but regulated so return pump would not need be nearly as large.) and connecting return line to the sight screw boss in the bowl. Wouldn't harm the carb and it could be returned to original if needed later on. Hmmmmm.
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So since a carb has a set of problems unique to it and an injected solution would solve all of them why spend the time on the carb? Just the challenge? Just curious?
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Simplicity.No electronics. Baling wire and a pair of pliers fixes it. Etc. Carbs really aren't the problem most think they are. People just don't know how they work and therefore can't really tune one. The only thing FI can do that a carb can't is run upside down. Well,actually they CAN. Think weed eater or chainsaw.
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Skip the sump pump/sucker carb trick. That was the hot set-up before the spring loaded needles. It should be left in 1980 where it originated.
Center hung baffled bowls with jet extenders to the middle of the bowl and spring loaded needles. End of problems. The last rick is tacking a rubber hose about 10" long and putting 1 1" slight lengthwise in the middle of it. Put the air cleaner stud through the slit and put the hose over the breather tubes. Instant anti-slosh. Just like the off-road carbs Holley now sells.
The sucker set-up just ad's twice as many potential leaks and pump problems.
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Actually the rubber hose thing went out years ago when Holley came out with the antislosh "whistles" many years ago that install in the metering blocks vent.
http://www.holley.com/26-89.asp (http://www.holley.com/26-89.asp)
http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/199R7449rev.pdf (http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/199R7449rev.pdf)
Neither the whistles nor the rubber hose trick does a thing about having overfilled bowls tho. All either will do is prevent fuel from flowing out the vent tubes directly into the intake ,flooding engine.
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Well,I got the front shocks and bypasses roughed in. Bunch more to do but you get the idea.By end of next week I should have this capable of being on it's wheels.
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Damn that looks awesome Fabr!
And now for the question on everybody's brain (voices) inside my head..... What do you have in mind for the body panels????
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Hint:maximum destruction. ;D
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How much will the buggy weigh once done?
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3000ish.
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looking good 8) ;D even with out to many meds rofl
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LMAO
If all goes well today it'll have all the shocks/bypasses mounted by tonight. All major, critical fabbing will be done. Bunch of small stuff from this point on. Really getting excited about this build.
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Looking good.
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Thanks,how's your project going?
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I just posted 2 pictures. Several things to finish and some modifications to do.
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Well,sometimes the "simple" things are the biggest PITA. I absolutely hate doing stuff like mounting shocks. I just agonize on how to prcede at times. This was one of those times. I got the rear shock/bypass mount roughed in though. I'm pretty happy with it. Of course there are some support tubes still needing cut/notched/installed along with a few gussets but ,at least,the precision positioning is behind me now. All 4 corners,at full bump,have the shocks and bypasses bottom out at the same time. Droop travel will be adjusted with internal shock spacers since the bypasses are placed to already be correct @ full droop. Only shock travel needs final adjusting with the internal spacer.
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Pic #3 shows a very favorable cv angle IMO.Car will only sit 2" higher @ ride height,15 inches reaar and 18 front. IF I did my calcs right rear travel will be 20" and 24" front. Cv life should be very good.
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still looking great should do it full time ;D :laugh: :e
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It's a nice hobby. I'm not the greatest by any means but it'll do.
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close to & all most 8) is close good me kick
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Damn Fabr sure comming together nice.
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Thanks guys. I appreciate it. To be honest this car is ,by far,the most accurately built car I have ever done.+- 1/16" everywhere. I'm finally pretty pleased with the craftsmanship. But,as always,I'm still not truly happy.
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Well,I just spent the last 2 days doing rework .All because of 1/16". thumb down The front shocks/bypasses ,at full droop,would have the spring hitting the bypass. DAMN. I wasn't really happy with the lower mounts,was going to be a bitch to plate, but was going to leave them alone until the clearance issue eyes. Sometimes, something little like a 1/16" makes you do what you didn't want to. In the long run I am much happier now and have proper clearance. ;D Kharma,yep,must be kharma. 8) 8) I have some more plate work to do yet and will post some pics ,hopefully tomorrow of the results.
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I know reworking something sucks, but at least now you know it's right.
I have worked on a few cars that had short limit straps on them due to clearance issues. thumb down
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Ya,no time like the present to correct anything. Easier,by far,to do so now.
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About the only perfect things I've ever done is make two kids. But then, I'm biased cause the look like me. And, their youngins and have plenty of time to prove me wrong! LMAO
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Rework done on passenger side. Should have drivers done tomorrow. Few pics.First 2 are @ full droop. Third is full bump and 4th shows 5" ground clearance @ full bump. 5th shows rear 24 degree cv angle at full droop.
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Looks like you and the dimple dies had some alone time? Really coming together nicely!! Got idea of how your gonna brace those upper shock mounts, esp the coilover??
Apears I'll survive the v8 payback roost one more trip? LMAO LMAO
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Ya,there's tube work to be done yet to the upper mounts. I was waiting for someone to say something! LOL!!!! THat will be first thing done after fabbing tie rod mounts on uprights and positioning/refining r&p for minimum bumpsteer. Should be tackling the r&p and tie rod mounts stuff tomorrow/next day. Plate/box rear lower arms and IT'S A ROLLER!!
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looks really good as usual!!
I have a question that is just a thought, i build my rear carriers with the heim mount point straight up and down as well. in your opinnion , wouild it be benificial to mount the uppers in a king pin anlge to place a contact patch on the paddle for better hook up or minimal effect?
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not sure I follow what you mean.
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He's talking about setting up your rear hub KPI for zero scrub radius, kinda like a front spindle.
I don't think scrub radius would make all that much of a difference on the rear, it doesn't turn. It will take some twisting stress of the arms though. Using your camber curve to cut down on lateral wheel scrub does help though........
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Oh ,I see. I haven't given it thought but wouldn't that make for loss of travel due to increased cv angle at droop or necessitate +(or is it -,I can never keep it straight), camber,leaning out, at bump to get zero camber at full droop for max travel? Maybe I'm wrong. Maybe my head is where the sun doesn't shine tonight also! LOL!!!!
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It would take a lot of "KPI" to get close to a wide rear, but I think it would be a good idea. Set at 0* at droop and let it tip in (-?) 3-4* at bump. Would help lessen stress in hard turn I'd think. Wouldn't be hard on A-arm rear, little tricky on DS's 6 link. Forward upper link would have to be mounted inboard same as on carrier. And that be fun!!.
Car is looking great, can't wait to see all the little finishing details you got cramed up in that noggin of yours Fabr. Guessing its not close enough for you to drag down for us to kick the tires on. LMAO LMAO ;D
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Personally,I feel that there could be a small benefit but..........................I see no real reason to do so. I hope to have the tire kicking party before the St.A. trip in September.
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Carl,those dimples shaved 2.5 pounds of unsprung weight off of each arm and makes a stiffer plating job at the same time. The plate is .120 same as arms.
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that is what i was talking about and getting the load contact patch to a certain spot on the tire is what i was talking about mostly. i have never seen this but on 2 designs. 1 was a five link years ago by SU and the origanal at that. they believed in pos camber at full droop in the rear but i don't agree with his reason. the other is mose built on his a-arm rear end rail. i noticed that in a pic on gd.com some time back but have been thinking about it for a few years just didn't want to screw with what worked for now. i know there is an advantage to breaking traction to get the rear end to swing or swap but is there a bigger advantage to getting the rail effect but then you have to ask for what app and the pro's and con's list goes on and on but a tighter cut i think is where one might benifit from the kpi ( so to speak ) on the rear carrier?
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IMO,it's like asking if apple juice is better than orange juice.Depends on the persons taste.
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IMO,it's like asking if apple juice is better than orange juice.Depends on the persons taste.
We all know that Orange Juice makes better screwdrivers. Orange Juice is therefore better.
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Well,not worth a pic but got a boost of enthusiasm today with the placing of a dummy block on the Fortin to begin making motor mounts. Funny how the littlest thing can sometimes make you want to work on something night and day again.
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Since I've reached the point of needing to mount the engine it is also the point of needing to get the engine ready. I decided to leave the primary engine in the dragster and use the backup engine. It was fresh ,waiting to go in the car BUT I decided a few months ago tl build both engines identical. The only difference in this one and the primary is the use of this GM CNC Race Prep iron block vs the rodeck and the use of a Cola crank instead of the Callies . Otherwise they will be one and the same as far as common parts will be concerned ,Oliver rods,JE pistons,titanium valves,Jesel rockers,reduced Cam for this though,Jesel belt cam drive,blah,blah,blah. A couple pics of the block. Figure I'll post some pics as the reassembly goes along to point out some of the drastic differences in this small block Chevy configuration and a standard head layout. This is a 428 ci stroker SBC.
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Well,got the ring end gap filer in yesterday and got the end gaps set. Rotating assembly is done. A few pics of progress,some assembly tools I made 25 or so years ago before you could just run out and buy them. Not much to see really but WTH. LOL!!!
In pic 4 you see tools like the pvc pipe ring squaring tool , the electric tape wrapped rod guide tool,the home made rod bolt stretch gauge and last but not least the 2x2 piston knocker. rofl rofl
Pic 5 shows stretch gauge on a rod bolt and all the notations of what the dial indicator should read for each rod bolt. Measure loose and measure stretch. Oliver ARP bolts require .0052 to .0058 stretch. It takes 80 foot pounds of torque to get that with the 7/16" rod bolts these rods use.
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So,been busy as hail (pun intended eyes ;D ) lately and then I have needed to get the power ladder trailer done for some time. An old boat trailer and a few days work along with some chinese pos pick up truck bed hoist and ,viola! A worksaver and OSHA happy maker for those care. Nobody in this part of the world does though as most roofing materials are still carried up the ladder by some nice ,dark complexioned young men. eyes eyes
Now it's hit the SOB part of this detuning BS. I have to port the intake to match the heads now. EFF ,I hate this crap job even though I used to do it for $$$$$$$ Oh well,at least the heads are done. 8) 8)
Had to put intake on heads to scribe reference marks so I just layed the rather tiny looking carb on top for some measurements needed. Damn thing looks like a dinky 2 barrel. rofl
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I like the motor pic and the ladder looks interesting too! ;D
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That motor looks nasty fast sitting on the stand Fabr!
Zoom-Zoom!
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They take a LOT of attention to detail to build. A first assembly will take about 2 weeks to get everything right.Lots of machining ,lots of measuring and interference/clearance checking. They are not a slap it together thing. No such thing as "standard off the shelf parts for these. You either get it right or you have a huge paper weight to cry over. LOL!!! Get them right and they are bullet proof badass.
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with all your spare time you should have it knoced out in a week then! rofl i know you will get it right the first time and it will be great to get a ride in it after the shocks are dialed in! ;D ;)
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This engine had different heads and induction on it in the dragster requiring a much bigger cam to make 900ish hp. I decided to use the baby canted valve heads on it for this application as they make fantastic power with a fairly mild cam comparatively speaking. In the dragster I was running .850 approx valve lift. This motor will now have only .660 lift. On the big canted valve head ,the .660 lift cam gives a nice smooth idle at as low as 600 rpm. These Brodix canted valve heads heads are just that much better than the AFR ones. Not knocking AFR as they made a very good conventional type SBC head also. I mean 900ish hp? WHat's wrong with that. LOL!!
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This engine had different heads and induction on it in the dragster requiring a much bigger cam to make 900ish hp. I decided to use the baby canted valve heads on it for this application as they make fantastic power with a fairly mild cam comparatively speaking. In the dragster I was running .850 approx valve lift. This motor will now have only .660 lift. On the big canted valve head ,the .660 lift cam gives a nice smooth idle at as low as 600 rpm. These Brodix canted valve heads heads are just that much better than the AFR ones. Not knocking AFR as they made a very good conventional type SBC head also. I mean 900ish hp? WHat's wrong with that. LOL!!
Hmmmmm...Its not 1000. ;D
You should think about finding a different motor
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If it had made a 1000 I could honestly say I'd ran a N/A SBC 6 second pass. LOL!!!! Best time I ever ran was 7.00/178 mph. Missed the 6 second club by a thousandth.
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Well the heads are on. The heads literally have to be assembled ON THE ENGINE. It is impossible to get to the center and end head studs with the valve springs in place. A person also has to not forget to start the 4 nuts inside the lifter valley before installing any other head stud nuts or you will be taking them back off. Luckily I remembered . Don't really need that frustration. ;D A few pics showing some of the pitfalls that a novice builder would be effed on. A few of special tools needed ,one that I had to make when I first built these type head engines 10 years ago. Have to use a correction factor when torquing the lifter valley studs. Smiley face checking piston/head/valve clearance is in there too. 8) Perfect clearance with machine work. I love it when that happens cause it happens so rarely with the engine combinations I usually play with. 8) 8)
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Rest of 'em.
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I got a motor in a swap deal with the canted valve heads like that. The builder had welded all the rocker blocks together. I sold it without ever going deeper than the valve covers..........
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Moroso FINALLY responded to my inquiry whether or not the could/would supply me with a dry sump pump with 2 scavenge and 2 pressure stages so I could avoid running a second small pump for the Fortin torque converter. I have a wad of drives up front as it is. THEY DO/WILL!. Custom shop will do it. This will save some "clutter" up front.
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I got a motor in a swap deal with the canted valve heads like that. The builder had welded all the rocker blocks together. I sold it without ever going deeper than the valve covers..........
I have no clue as to why he would have felt the need to do that. The Jesel setup is rock solid as it is. Wouldn't hurt but if ever needed on another cv head the stands would need replaced likely since no 2 cv heads are machined the same in that area. Gotta shim intake usually none to .015 and ex usually is .100". Unless you like a real challenge it's best to not dig into these. They are fantastic hp producers and very durable but the LS stuff is ,admittedly,much easier/cheaper for most to build.
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For Dri Sump Pumps, Pans, and stuff check out Dailey, Bills a good guy, worked with him at Nissan.
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Do you know offhand if he will do a beefier mount? I looked at his site and don't like the lightening. I will have a dual plate instead of one with the moroso I think. With that said,I have a daily single stage for the fortin trans now. I AM impressed with it's design and quality. I will give him a call Monday as I like his pulley retention method MUCH better. It will likely boil down to price either way as I devised a secure "fix " for the Moroso pos setup years ago.
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OK,been a few days of delays and waiting for things like a fresh ATI harmonic balancer and Trend custom length .135 wall pushrods. Pushrod length an extremely critical thing to a happy valve train last thing that can be determined what size to buy . These little brother canted valve heads need 9.45 exhaust and 9.65 intake lengths. Other engine with big brother canted valve heads use pushrods about .400 longer. Engines like these are truly built and not just assembled . I also will need to have 8 custom offset intake rockers built be Jesel since ,apparently,no one has fixed the issue yet either at Jesel or Brodix. The fricken pushrod offset is not enough to clear casting along intake port and the wall thickness is only about .040 in that area due to fricken Brodix machining a huge cutout in the side ,porting and Jesel/Brodix having their heads buried in not providing lifters with enough offset to not need a huge cutout in the side of the port. The big cv heads barely cleared but the smaller ones don't at all. Soooooo it's just some more $$$$$$$.
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I have no idea what you just $aid. Will it make vroom vroom noises when it is all done?
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LMAO LMAO ;D ;D ;D NOW YOU KNOW HOW I FEEL WHEN DISCUSSING WEBSITE STUFF. LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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Actually VROOM!! VROOM!! ,muffled. ;D ;D
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LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO I realize some things I describe concerning true custom engines and the multitude of little things that will doom most peoples efforts is a bit daunting and I might as well be speaking mandarin. I'll take a couple pics tonight to clear it up a bit.
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Pics and crayons, now that me and Yums speed. Is it gonna make Glamis this yr?
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It's a good possibility but St.A is out. Little things like a custom built 2 scavenge,2 pressure stage dry sump pump so I don't have to run a separate torque converter pump and drive always delays progress. It will be a much neater install. I'm waiting for what it's going to cost now. Doesn't really matter the cost at this point though since I have no other choice on how to do it. Bet the damn price comes back at about 2500 bux though. OUCH!!!!!
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Just got the price back on the +.100 offset intake rocker arms from Jesel. ONLY $680 bux for the 8. Know what their answer was as to why the issue has never been addressed? You can order them with whatever offset you want.No extra charge. The problem is that the rocker sets for the cv heads are special order ,are represented to fit without modification,no mention that it would be best to order custom offsets. I said,you guys know they won't fit ,fail to say anything when ordered, and still don't see the problem is on your end. Nope they said. Typical aftermarket BS. So,I have 8 brand new rockers that will make nice paperweights @$85 each. EFF.
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I said,you guys know they won't fit ,fail to say anything when ordered, and still don't see the problem is on your end. Nope they said.
When it's your fault no matter what then you know you have been wifed!
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Crap ,I'd forgotten that years ago when they first designed these shaft setups they were the only whore in town and didn't see the need to tell customers of any issues. I have to admit that I bought this set of heads and shaft rockers from a reputable racer that never used them. They are several years old but never used. Jesel acknowledged the issue but offered no offset in price. Get this though,I have used several Jesel setups and truly feel them to be the best of the best BUT,one of the rocker adjuster studs were not drilled for oil. If I hadn't been as anal as I am on engines there would likely been a fried PR/rocker and a trashed $30K engine quite possibly.
I check every little detail when assembling these things. I found another clearance issue at the lower end of the pushrod also.Where it enters the roller lifter around the tie bar area with the rocker is adjusted to lash spec,the PR contacts the tie bar. Needs a little friendly time on the grinder to get .030. Nothing out of the ordinary though ,just as with the rockers,when building an unusual/specialty(outlaw sprint car engine of a decade ago) combination. You just assume there is a problem and find it. Ten you look again a few times. That's why there are $125K NHRA prostock engines.
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I swore about 10 years ago I would never again use a die grinder. Even though I have done quite a lot of it I HATE it . Well ,at least, it was just a port match. roughed in,.semifinished pics.
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Been a while since I got some time. Had some delays,etc. Anyway I have engine together,ready to set in chassis and fab mounts. First though I decided to do a couple billet valve covers. Nothing fancy,just super rigid and leak free therefore. Here's the cad rendering. SHould have done next week unless something else goes to crap here. thumb down rofl
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Been a while since I got some time. Had some delays,etc. Anyway I have engine together,ready to set in chassis and fab mounts. First though I decided to do a couple billet valve covers. Nothing fancy,just super rigid and leak free therefore. Here's the cad rendering. SHould have done next week unless something else goes to crap here. thumb down rofl
Cool fabr. Going to take a couple hefty piece's of aluminum to finish them out.
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6x20x3 Already sitting here.
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Wowsers. How much do the shavings offset the stock cost?
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These heads aren't used but mostly,in the past,on outlaw sprint cars and drag cars. Used valve covers just don't exist. Most people fab sheetmetal as I have done so also on other engines..I have the one pair of the Brodix cast covers for one engine but want to keep themon it .New are about 400 bux and way back ordered. Hmmmmmmm,it seems like I have a CNC sitting idle and needs a little exercise sooooooooooo I had this big ass slab of aluminum just sitting in my way for about 3 years soooooooooooooooo billet valve covers.
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About 4 years ago I ran across online metals and have been using them for any material I need for the CNC .They cut it to size very accurately and are very easy to deal with. NO hassles yet. These 2 pieces of ally would have cost 320 dollars if I had not already had a piece 14x26x3.5 on hand to cut from. I have had a lot of people ask me how I cut the blanks from that thick of a slab. When I tell them I just flop it on the table saw with a standard wood cutting carbide blade on it they look at me a bit weird. LOL!!! When I then tell them that I can turn right around and do finish cuts on oak lumber they further think I'm crazy. It's the truth though.
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I too use a carbide saw blade to cut aluminum. The first time I did it in front of my buddy, he moved to the far side of my shop. He really freaked out when I grabbed my skil saw to make a cut that wouldn't fit on the table saw. Warning goggle safety glasses and gloves are required. It does make smooth cuts.
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Yessir! On pieces too large the standard Skilsaw does a wonderful job on aluminum,never steel. I also bought a "skilsaw" made just for metals,they run at about 1/2 regular speed with a lot more torque.. It is amazing how fast you can cut through 1/2" plate steel with an almost perfect edge. After that I bought the carbide tooth blade chopsaw. Best 2 things I did in a long time a few years ago.
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it's amazing how the more simple tools work out a lot of the times!
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It's amazing what many people think cannot/will not work. LOL!!!!!
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I have trimmed up more than a few skid plates with a Skill saw. Ear protection and somebody with a WD40 can make it a whole lot easier...........
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used many hand held myself many times just cause it is easier at the moment
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Most freak out when it's 3" thick though! LOL!!!!!
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Most freak out when it's 3" thick though! LOL!!!!!
that's cause they don't have faith rofl
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Use blade wax.
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http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/3126544;jsessionid=Cp17SXnd1SMT87WCphk0h25gdtP9TBXXkDJvTGHxNLSN2CmBxTn1 (http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/3126544;jsessionid=Cp17SXnd1SMT87WCphk0h25gdtP9TBXXkDJvTGHxNLSN2CmBxTn1)!-1303666258!1657431672?isPunchout=false
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I actually have found that no lube works as well as lube ,in this application. A LOT less messy also.
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OK,got sidetracked on the valve covers when I spied a set of mockup headers hanging on the wall that I'd weleded up about 20 years ago. Been there so long I just overlooked them,I guess. Brand new,never used. Soooo,just to get a feel for how to run the headers before I began building them I pulled one off the wall ,turned it upside down and welllllll,the damn things will fit perfectly!!! All I need to do is cut off the flange and weld on a new one upside down. WOW!!!! All along I have been planning to build a set from SS but WTF,I'm going to use these and jet hot coat the headers and pipes.
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some times it's good to be a pack rat rofl rofl that did work out good though! looks great but I expect nothing less from you. can't wait to see it run!!
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Pack rat is an understatement!
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are you going to add a windshield to this one?
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Pack rat is an understatement!
rofl ya I am nooooo better rofl
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in the windshield opening you have a tube welded across about 6" down from the roof. what are you planning with that? I like the rear a-arms and carriers too! do you have a front end shot?
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Windshield is in the plan. The tube that you ask about is where the 2 LED lights recess into above the windshield. Same as current car pretty much but with a roof also.
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Pack rat is an understatement!
If it wasn't for the off-road swap meet, I would be in much worse shape. Selling there and not buying (much) over the last few years has really thinned out the garage.
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I just can't bear to part with the stuff.
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Run some wires and squirt some paint you can drive it by the end of the week.
That is looking really good.
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The 2 trans fluid coolers and 2 new dry sump tanks should be here by mid week. Radiator/fan assembly (the white foam in the pics is where it resides) will still be a few weeks . :'( Gonna try to start fab on fuel cell can so I can get it shipped off to FuelSafe for bladder next week. ;) 8) Ordering Halon1311 fire suppression tonight and 2 AR-AFFF extinguishers also tonight. 8) 8) After that ,THEN it will be wire and plumb. Lots yet to do. thumb down rofl
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You gonna build something like a bumper back here to protect that pricey transmission? I know how you guys like to bump into each other LMAO
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dtsfab.com%2Findex%2FMGalleryItem.php%3Fid%3D1509&hash=128ef440eb391605f1d49c36a54fc0fbd3922b00)
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LMAO Ya,it gets a removable cattle guard around it so the trans can be removed without pulling engine. ;D ;D
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Man I wish I had half the skills you guys have here. I see original work like this and realize I'm just a hack. That is what I like about this place is the willingness of all to help each other out with answers to questions.
Fabr, from what I see this is turning out to be a work of art and technology!
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Well,I appreciate the flattery but I can't even hold a candle to a real fabricators skills. I just do the best I can.
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the only difference i see in your words real fabricator ,is they get paid & you do not for the same work
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the only difference i see in your words real fabricator ,is they get paid & you do not for the same work
+1 deano
Fabr's got a few years, I mean learning experience on some of us. If he a Fast weren't so far I'd just go hang out in shop. Some of that has got to soak thru this thick skull.
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LMAO rofl rofl Thanks deano!!!
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Now you're making Fast and me blush,Carl. ;D ;D
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Now you're making Fast and me blush,Carl. ;D ;D
Hay speak for your self there fabr. Now I'll just go change my shirt that my chest just busted out of and buy a bigger hat. LMAO.
Thanks Carl I really think that your selling your self way short. I have't seen you riding the tool box much more then a lot of us. You got skills that I would like to have. Mainly when it come's to sorting out the computer stuff in the bike motors you do pretty dam good. Me not so much.
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you both deserve pat on the back for what you have done for all in the sport ;D 8) :u
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Thanks Carl I really think that your selling your self way short. I have't seen you riding the tool box much more then a lot of us. You got skills that I would like to have. Mainly when it come's to sorting out the computer stuff in the bike motors you do pretty dam good. Me not so much.
I agree 100%you both deserve pat on the back for what you have done for all in the sport ;D 8) :u
I just like to pass on what I can. Years ago a couple of guys sort of took me under their wing,why I'll never figure out,but I am forever grateful and feel I should help others the same as thery did for me.
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yep fine job guys!!
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Been a bit busy but have made a bit of buggy progress also. Ever had something that just made you hate it? Well I did on the front upper mounts soooooo,out came the cutoff wheel and just 12 hours later I'm as happy as I'll get . Body will be over most of it,only the bypass tops will be seen with body on. I had to make the mounts much trimmer to be able to do that without obstructing front line of sight .
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Hmmmm,need a few more pics to show the dramatic difference it made.
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Found out the headers I have missed the target by about 1/2 inch. mThe way the muffs have to be placed to get past the radiator makes it necessary to just do as planned in the first place and make from scratch. I'll be using the ICENGINEWORKS header modeling blocks. I'll post up some pics soon of them in use. One of the things they have you do is mount your collectors before beginning on tube layout. I made a slip fit mount for the muffs so that when doing engine removal or maintenance It only takes removing the v band clamp and POOF off come the muffs. I really really like quick and easy. Trying to do this car like my race cars have been along those lines . I'm a lazy bastard at heart.
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Ever had something that just made you hate it?
3 sets of spindles/arms and 2 years later........ Nah, never had that problem......... rofl
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3 sets of spindles/arms and 2 years later........ Nah, never had that problem......... rofl
hehehhehheeee
About forgot about this thing .Been getting really paranoid about fire.
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Well,I guess I need to get off my donkey and post some updates. Hang in there! LOL!!
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I'm guessing you wont be roostin anyone at spring LS with this car? ;D
Really diggin this car, esp the size. Never been a fan of the limo sand car with seating for 12. This thing is nothing but motor, seat, and go fast pedal! Driven by a loose nut! Just like a drag car I'm sure, should be a blast.
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No major roost this year for ya , Carl. I do believe it will be a complete roller less body ,wiring and plumbing by then tho. Have been side tracked with new house lately. Not enough time in the day ya know. Yep,a sand limo this car is not. I kind of equate it to a 2 seat outlaw sprint car. Gonna be fun for sure.
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no doubts on the fun factor!!!!!!!!!!!!! ;D :)
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Well,got fuel cell can roughed in. Need to get it to the rotomolders to get it nylon lined.Add a few fittings and it's done. Notice how the headers will need to route. Not as bad as it may look but the icengineworks header modeling "legos "will make it a snap. Already used it to model the radiator hard line around a couple obstructions.
Next is a pic from the drivers POV. Notice how close I can see in front of car and it is sitting at full droop height. Ds mentioned line of sight in another thread and I learned my lesson on the blue busa buggy about that. This onehas much better visibility.
Next is one just because I like it . rofl rofl rofl rofl
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clear vision is a must lol you just don't know till it's gone! the pics look great and what is the jugs or canister with the yellow stickers on them in the last pic?
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I like the shock tower braces in the front and the profile pic. the headers will turn out nice hope there not too loud up there.
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WIth the full body on it will still have excellent visibility to the front and sides. For a while I was hating the profile with the original front shock towers. These are much better and as the rest of the parts are going on it is becoming what I had seen in my minds eye.One is the dry sump reservoir for the engine and the other is the sump tank for the torque converter. As for the headers.......huh??? I can't hear you..................
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Damn!! This thing is gonna be wicked. Should be as fast as your :u will let you. If I roll thru C'ville maybe we can get a sneak peek.!! ;) ;D
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Sure can and we can bolt that AC on the roof too.
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ya now I would stop for both those offers!!!!!!!!!!! looks good and I expect nothing less
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What do you suppose this is?
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What do you suppose this is?
The picture title (that shows up under the picture) says Lower Radiator Hose? Sure hope thats the answer on Who wants to be a Millionaire! rofl
I really like using hard lines for coolant where I can. Just a neater look.
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Damn Carl,you're sharp this morning. LOL!!!!! Ya,rubber hoses are not too good for long runs. I used the header modeling stuff I have to do it. Sure is nice to cut once and weld. I didn't have to tweak a single piece.
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You seem to be getting closer to the end. I want to plan ahead and put in my calendar when I can test drive the car!!
DAN
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You seem to be getting closer to the end. I want to plan ahead and put in my calendar when I can test drive ride in the car!!
DAN
;D ;D ;D ;D Fixed it for you ,Dan. ;D ;D ;D See you in St.A. in June.
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rofl rofl rofl rofl what no demo's rides rofl
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I just found out yesterday Don has a wedding Friday night June 13th so he will leave the 14th and he will be there that night. I am going to be there the morning of the 14th and ride through the 18th as of right now.
It will not be long now as fast as this year is going.
DAN
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rofl rofl rofl rofl what no demo's rides rofl
It sounds as if demo rides are possible! Demo drives seem off the table.
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ummmm,ya,that sounds right!!!!! ;D ;D
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Fabr is a worse passenger than I am. I didn't need a cold one before climbing in busa car with him. Cant wait to see/sit/shift it! ;D
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Sorry to jump in there, fabr, but I try to make a post every now and then to keep from getting culled for inactivity! You guys are so far over my head in most posts, I stay quiet to keep from looking stupid (and sometimes it still gets me!).
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Oh man,ody,we like hearing from you. As far as being over anyone's head ,we don't really know a thing. Join in!!!!!
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Oh man,ody,we like hearing from you. As far as being over anyone's head ,we don't really know a thing. Join in!!!!!
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WOOOOOOOOOOOOO !!!!!!!!!! speak for yourself there!!!!!!!!!!!! i atleast know how to log in!! LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO
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I promise not to go very fast!! Maybe!!
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I promise not to go very fast!! Maybe!!
I believe you. I also promise. ;) Are the St.A dates set in stone yet so I don't drive them crazy changing my arrive/depart dates more than a couple more times?
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I believe you. I also promise. ;) Are the St.A dates set in stone yet so I don't drive them crazy changing my arrive/depart dates more than a couple more times?
Well hurry up and get them set. Looks like it will just be me and Sylvia and we are going to arrive some time around the 12th or 13th. I think Kay done told Jerry that there house had to be completed before The holidays this year.
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The dates are set.
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The dates are set.
Ok we are set to arrive on the Thirteenth and leave the eighteenth at the Idaho Dunes RV park. We have number 30 spot. Just behind Faber and Gail.
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Well,it's been a while. A lot done but doesn't look like it.All projects get to that point. Pretty much to the point of settling in on wiring and such. A few pics of the dash beginning.
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Looking good Fabr. Way to many gauges for my mind to keep up with. I'd crash trying to find the gauge I wanted to look at. LMAO Still think it will make Glamis the year?
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Was the hammer for the stereo installation? LMAO
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looks real good! i like the way the exhaust turned out!
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looks real good! i like the way the exhaust turned out!
I actually wanted to keep it up high but no matter what I did it was always 1" too narrow for the radiator to pass between the mufflers up where I had them. Had to take the low road with the muffs. By the time radiator and shrouding/body/airflow directors( rofl) are in place I think I'll like it. I think others will too,hopefully. ;)
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Fast,there's only 8 gauges ..........................................and 3 idiot lights will be between the tach and gps so I don't crash hunting a gauge either! ;D ;D Car should be done,well likely anyway but I really hate to go out without a body.
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Lance,I thought I might need a bigger hammer. ;D I have only enough room between the back of the lower right hand gauge and the defroster duct for the hose to fit. I thought I was going to have to delete the defroster. WHEW! it clears though. 8)
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Damn Fabr, very impressive for sure! Your attention to detail sure shows.
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Thanks for the comments guys. I hope the final product makes me happy.So far,so good.
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Well,the dash is fully roughed in. Needs final fit and finish but the fricking hard part is done. ;D ;D ;D
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Very nice :)
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+1
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Been toying with several ideas for the body. I think I have enough experience now to tackle a pretty cool idea. With a few mods, this Jeep concept vehicle body style will adapt to my frame well and be fairly easy to do. Try to picture it without the silver lower panels. Kind of hard to imagine a Jeep styled body but I think it pulls it off. ???.
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how about the ford ex?
http://www.velocityjournal.com/journal/2001/ford/2402/pictures.html (http://www.velocityjournal.com/journal/2001/ford/2402/pictures.html)
https://www.google.com/search?q=ford+ex&espv=2&biw=1536&bih=783&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=qSJZVK2_G5KwyASzxoCwBQ&ved=0CFgQsAQ&dpr=1.25#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=8nG0FKQIY-KAjM%253A%3BgU3zKGtqDDgUNM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fimage.fourwheeler.com%252Ff%252F16455242%252Bw750%252Bst0%252F129_0207_01_z%252Bwe_drive_the_ford_ex%252Bside_view.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fforums.finalgear.com%252Fgeneral-automotive%252Fdream-garage-concept-edition-43616%252F%3B640%3B480 (https://www.google.com/search?q=ford+ex&espv=2&biw=1536&bih=783&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=qSJZVK2_G5KwyASzxoCwBQ&ved=0CFgQsAQ&dpr=1.25#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=8nG0FKQIY-KAjM%253A%3BgU3zKGtqDDgUNM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fimage.fourwheeler.com%252Ff%252F16455242%252Bw750%252Bst0%252F129_0207_01_z%252Bwe_drive_the_ford_ex%252Bside_view.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fforums.finalgear.com%252Fgeneral-automotive%252Fdream-garage-concept-edition-43616%252F%3B640%3B480)
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https://www.google.com/search?q=ford+ex&espv=2&biw=1536&bih=783&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=qSJZVK2_G5KwyASzxoCwBQ&ved=0CFgQsAQ&dpr=1.25#facrc=_&imgdii=irFrKB7NmxFlRM%3A%3Bos5gylXFdwHhwM%3BirFrKB7NmxFlRM%3A&imgrc=irFrKB7NmxFlRM%253A%3Btbncg3J0foZkyM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Ffiles.conceptcarz.com%252Fimg%252FFord%252F2001-Ford-Ex-Concept-DV-10-RMM_e01.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.gopixpic.com%252F1024%252F2001-ford-ex-concept-news-pictures-specifications-and-information%252Fhttp%253A%25257C%25257Cfiles (https://www.google.com/search?q=ford+ex&espv=2&biw=1536&bih=783&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=qSJZVK2_G5KwyASzxoCwBQ&ved=0CFgQsAQ&dpr=1.25#facrc=_&imgdii=irFrKB7NmxFlRM%3A%3Bos5gylXFdwHhwM%3BirFrKB7NmxFlRM%3A&imgrc=irFrKB7NmxFlRM%253A%3Btbncg3J0foZkyM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Ffiles.conceptcarz.com%252Fimg%252FFord%252F2001-Ford-Ex-Concept-DV-10-RMM_e01.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.gopixpic.com%252F1024%252F2001-ford-ex-concept-news-pictures-specifications-and-information%252Fhttp%253A%25257C%25257Cfiles)*conceptcarz*com%25257Cimg%25257CFord%25257C2001-Ford-Ex-Concept-DV-10-RMM_01*jpg%252F%3B1024%3B681
interesting carrier design and does the cv boot looked ripped and greasy in the pic?
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Not really anything there interested me. Comparing my needs , chassis shape and proportions,wheelbase,etc., it appears to me that this might be a good fit . In my minds eye I can see the end result but,of course,you guys can't . My photo shop skills are ,well, ZERO. bs1
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Any update on it????? Tring to get my head rapped around that body thing u want
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It's looking good btw..... I do like it
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It's looking good btw..... I do like it
The desired body changed just a tiny bit. LOL!! You can check out the entire thing under Fabr's Desert Car Body Build in the Fiberglass/composite section.
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So if I quit my job and volunteer all my time will you teach me how build like that???
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Wellllll,you're not the first to offer that. ;D ;D Honestly,I have always felt that fastcorvairs sig line applies to all of us. I have always lived it. Here it is.
"If I believe I cannot do something it makes me incapable of doing it. But when I believe that I can, then I acquire the ability to do it , even if I didn't have it at the beginning."
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I have a lot to learn, like sheetmetal work, and how to run a lathe/mill, tig
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I have spent my life gathering skills most would not. I truly enjoy having developed the ability to do literally everything myself as well as ,and many times better ,than the pros.All it really takes ,IMO,is 2 things 1-a burning desire with acquired knowledge. 2-natural talent not yet developed. It also takes a willingness to put in the time. LOTS of time.
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Been a LONG time coming with taking out 8 months to work on house. I have about another 3 weeks till bath stuff arrives for house but it has come to the time to do all final welding on this thing!!!! WOOHOO!!!! Should be ready for powdercoat in 2-3 weeks. If I get this all timed right I'll be doing reassembly soon.
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Did some research and decided to put dual fuel pumps
( http://walbrofuelpumps.com/450lph-walbro-e85-racing-fuel-pump-f90000267.html )
in the tank. Got them ordered and the tank fill plate (http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/15551/10002/-1 (http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/15551/10002/-1) ) with fittings. Get that stuff in and the tank is off to be PEX lined.
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Are the 2 pumps for a backup? With the carb on there and the lower psi does the one not flow enough?
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One flows just enough @ WOT with gas but borderline with E85 but yes the idea behind dual pumps is that if one fails ,the other gets you home. The computer will turn on second pump if fuel pressure drops below a set threshold.
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Can fab this http://www.jegs.com/i/Aeromotive/027/18309/10002/-1?CAWELAID=230006180001306157&CAPCID=95826282671&cadevice=c&gclid=COTm6NbVrssCFQEdaQodQPgAVA for less $$$$
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have you considered a belt driven fuel pump along with a standard electric in tank pump?
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http://www.speedwaymotors.com/CandS-Belt-Drive-Fuel-Pump-Alcohol-Pump,9034.html?sku=2384000&utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&catargetid=530009170000173146&cadevice=c&gclid=CNPVzZrcrssCFQ6naQod894DWg (http://www.speedwaymotors.com/CandS-Belt-Drive-Fuel-Pump-Alcohol-Pump,9034.html?sku=2384000&utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&catargetid=530009170000173146&cadevice=c&gclid=CNPVzZrcrssCFQ6naQod894DWg)
http://www.jegs.com/i/Aeromotive/027/11105/10002/-1?parentProductId=762393 (http://www.jegs.com/i/Aeromotive/027/11105/10002/-1?parentProductId=762393)
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Way too much stuff on front of engine now. I even had a custom 2 in 1 dry sump pump built with a separate pressure section for the torque converter to avoid any more belts and long drive mandrels.
Even without those considerations,no,I would not have considered it any way. Too many benefits to having the pump/s in the tank. Too many negatives to have ever considered a belt driven pump. BTDT in the drag race days.
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I forgot how much I enjoy quality time with the TIG torch. It's been way too long.
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i have borrowed enemy's and they are an interesting tool. to an extent i do really like them but i still like my mig ;D very nice addition to have though
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Everyone has their own likes/dislikes but my mig gets used for tacking only. On 4130,cages,anything precision-TIG baby!!! ;D ;D ;DI agree that if I was doing production stuff and/or general welding mig would get the nod tho.
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Well,the car hasn't been out of the shop and it's on it's lid already. ;) Took some pics today of the chassis upside down on the rotisserie. ;D ;D Forgot the cam at shop. Dumbass! That thing is worth its weight in gold. Makes welding everything a LOT easier.
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the tig is much more precise and cleaner not to meantion a lot of other things but mig is just faster and easier especially when i don't have a lot of experience with the tig. it is fun to use especially when i was building my exhaust
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the tig is much more precise and cleaner not to meantion a lot of other things but mig is just faster and easier especially when i don't have a lot of experience with the tig. it is fun to use especially when i was building my exhaust
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A couple pics of the dual ,in tank ,fuel pumps ,and their "custom" fill plate hanger. Still need to get the hoses and wiring on it tho.
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can't tell from the pic but did you use staineless? what size tank are you going with ?
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Why would I use SS?
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corrosion since your going e85 or i thought you were
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Keep the water out and it's a non issue. . All the talk of corrosion is BS. IF it were methanol,that would be different story.
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Plus keeping tank full. Guessing a T to one outlet at top. Pumps look tiny, but I'mguess the whole setup is just larger than it looks.
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Keep the water out and it's a non issue. . All the talk of corrosion is BS.
If only that were true....... Trust Me, even the "oxygenated" crap we had in Komifornia would corrode aluminum. If you have a vent on your tank you are going to get moisture in it. Letting My old glass car sit for a week or 2 was like parking it at the bottom of the ocean. Everything aluminum in the system would start to turn chalky white. Cast was the worst, anodized better but still not immune. SS tank never even noticed.
If you drove it everyday, would not be an issue. Letting them set for months on end is.
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I don't let fuel sit for months or even weeks on end open to atmosphere.
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The pumps are tiny. Big capacity though. Most pumps are BIG to impress people. 450lph @ no pressure and something like 400lph @ 30psi. The specs are on walbros site. Pumps are 100% e85 compatible unlike most . As I said,keep the water out and it is a non issue. Yes,I know there is SOME water in almost all e85.We have lots of guys running it around here with zero corrosion issues.
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the reason i asked is because of how fast e85 attracts moisture and the amount of time it sits w/o use. i know you plan on having a bladder made for the tank but still have to vent it. there are additives the sell for ethanol fuels to cut down on the effects but still. i am going to go e85 but because mine sits a lot in between it will get the additive and i'll drain the tank. i actually considered a dual switch for e85 and pump fuel. the pimp system does allow for it so i could drain the e85 and run 87 octane non eth through while it sat for a while. lot of work i know but if it keeps parts from needing replaced then it's worth it.
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You guys worry way too much. Cap the vent in storage. Test your fuel for % water content before buying. You WILL do that won't you?
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If it makes you feel better,,,,,,,,,,,,,,the fill plate bottom and the hangers will be coated with this. https://www.kbs-coatings.com/tank-sealer.html ;D ;D I thought I could get a bit of an argument going. You guys are no fun today.................... rofl
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I'll play along, ;) Loos like some great stuff, website and even Youtube videos! Only issue I see, atleast for you, in the directions it says; FOR BEST RESULTS, PLEASE BE PATIENT DURING EACH STEP OF THE PROCEDURE.
And that may be the only problem I see with it. LMAO LMAO LMAO
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You have a point,Carl. ;D ;D ;D I was going to just PC it but got to thinking the ethanol might be an issue. Checked on it and found it is one of those maybe/maybe not thing in the long run. DS asked if I used SS.. Wouldn't do much good to have used SS since the fill plate is mild steel. Could have fabbed an alum/SS fill plate but had no alum/SS angle or an alum/SS fill neck. Also didn't want to trust alum hanger.
Now back to the corrosive tendencies of e85. Proper storage and verification of water content in e85 under 2% max to help prevent phase separation and wate/corrosionr issues will be wellllll,a non issue. Store your e85 like gas and there can/will be issues. Like everything we do,do it right or pay the consequences.
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i quickly looked on there site to see if there coating works on aluminum tanks and didn't see anything at first glance. i'll have to read it in depth when i get time. proper storage is key but fuel left in a tank with a vent can be an issue. i have to add the additives to the tanks of my lawn mowers since everything close buy has a claimed 10% eth in it and i have had to pull carbs a few time after it has sat for 2 or 3 weeks cause it eats at them. no problems sine i started adding the additive though. i just asked because it looked like mild but can't always tell in the pic. work looks good as always and the coating is a good idea. i have used similar coatings on bike tanks in the past and that all worked well.
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I have never had any issues with e10 use in anything I own. Never. I am absolutely not worried about e85 and aluminum.The only way for corrosion to occur is with wet or water saturated ethanol and having phase separation happen. Only thing I will do is drain the tanks for extended storage.
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i did in all my lawn mowers and power washer until i started using the additive. the pump says 10% but i believe thats a guestimate lol
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i like the diesel pumps that say contains bio diesel.....5 to 20% now that's one hell of a tolerance!
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Check out the % range of ethanol content allowed in pump e85.ASTM 5798 specifies the allowable fuel ethanol content in E85 as ranging from 51% to 83%. THAT is why I ask if you guys are checking your pump e85 before just putting it in the gas can let alone in your tank.I guarantee you that with compression ratio of 15:1 in this engine I'll not be buying my e85 in the winter months for sure(always lower ethanol content in winter months) and will ALWAYS do a check by buying a gallon and testing the stuff,right at the pump,before filling a drum.
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Check out the % range of ethanol content allowed in pump e85.ASTM 5798 specifies the allowable fuel ethanol content in E85 as ranging from 51% to 83%. THAT is why I ask if you guys are checking your pump e85 before just putting it in the gas can let alone in your tank.I guarantee you that with compression ratio of 15:1 in this engine I'll not be buying my e85 in the winter months for sure(always lower ethanol content in winter months) and will ALWAYS do a check by buying a gallon and testing the stuff,right at the pump,before filling a drum.
Dang fabr, 15:1 comp ratio, that thing is crackle like a top fuel machine. I used to follow a guy that ran methanol in a VW engine, it made my eyes water.
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15:1 makes for very crisp throttle response,a nice low idle and a LOT more power. I ran this setup for quite a few years on race gas.
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ahhhh ya lol and it will be interesting to hear your thoughts on the diff between race and e85 wtih that motor based on experience
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The only difference SHOULD be it will run a LOT cooler. I should add that the drag engines were 15:1 . I forgot I lowered this engine to only 14:1. ;D ;D I guess I need to check my notes before posting. 5: Fooking old memory............
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running cooler and cooler exhaust and i believe carb'd should produce a cooling effect to a point on the intake side which all makes a diff. more so boosted but still makes a diff
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Carb or throttle body injected will give the entire intake tract a cooling intake charge.
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fabr how is the build coming along? is it far enough that i might make the st a trip or to ls in the fall?
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Well,,depends on how much time I take away from finishing house. Radiator did arrive today tho so I'll be mounting it and try to get chassis to powder coater Monday. Realistically I could have it ready. We'll see tho. I'm going to skip St.A this fall and probably come down to LS for the fall thing with SR1 and you guys. Would like to be able to make a couple shake down runs then.
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Well,decided to put the car together without powder at this time. It seems like I keep on finding little things I'd like added. Soooooo,I might actually get the damn thing ready for LS fall trip.
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Well,decided to put the car together without powder at this time. It seems like I keep on finding little things I'd like added. Soooooo,I might actually get the damn thing ready for LS fall trip.
Do we just call you "Rusty" from now on, or are you doing a quick rattle can on it? Pink would look nice! rofl
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Fortunately 4130 has a pickled surface that resists rust a bit. The few pieces not 4130 will get the pickle treatment. It'll be fine for a while.
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Picklex20.com. Try it.
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Picklex20.com. Try it.
Looks like pretty cool stuff. I have some half finished projects I could use that on!
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It won't completely prevent rust but it does a better job than anything else. Left raw for now will allow any possible cracks to readily show up. I don't expect to have any but,ya never know. Better now than later. It came off the jig for the first time today. I'll have it on all fours by end of weekend.
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Spent the day modifying all the suspension pivot bolts and making spacers. 26 of them to be exact. 16 more to do for the shocks and bypasses. I do not like threads riding in the tabs. I find bolts with appropriate shank length and cut off excess threads . When the unthreaded shank is a bit too long ,I make spacers instead of stacking washers. This way both tabs have a smooth shank riding in them. Keeps the tabs happy and me too when removing the bolts. Spacers will get tacked in place ( another of the things forgot,reason why not PC'ing now) to make servicing easier.
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All a arms are on,alignment begins now.
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i have to agree on the shank and can't wait to see it in person at ls in sept
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Keep us posted, I wanna see a roller. ;D And also agree on the fasteners; 1st rule of aircraft is "No threads in bearing".
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Keep us posted, I wanna see a roller. ;D And also agree on the fasteners; 1st rule of aircraft is "No threads in bearing".
rofl wellllll,it should fly.................. ;D ;D
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4 corner alignment done. Only took minor adjustments.I've always just used angle finders and such. Since this car will see some serious speed,I bought a caster/camber guage from Joe's. I gotta admit ,it has brought me out of the stone age. Pretty nice knowing it is spot on instead of just pretty close.
https://www.joesracing.com/i-21091898-joes-caster-camber-gauge-with-magnetic-adapter.html (https://www.joesracing.com/i-21091898-joes-caster-camber-gauge-with-magnetic-adapter.html)
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hmmm interesting
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They have all sorts of mounting adapters.
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Yup I bought a speedway one a while ago. The adapters have to be made or bought and I use plastic cutting boards as turntables but it sure works good. Like you said, no guessing.
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Making progress.
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My baby taking his first steps. ;D ;D ;D bounce
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Looking great! Like the way the radiator is mounted, fits nice. Trans not in? Or does it have a divorced/2 piece diff?
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Waiting for flexplate that should be here tomorrow to put the FRS5 in.
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looks great but then again i expect nothing less from you lol how long? wheel base? track width? seating area...how wide ? just wondering using your busa rail as an example now that it is welded on its wheels.
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CANT WHAT TO SEE THIS DONE. BAD ASS.
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looks great but then again i expect nothing less from you lol how long? wheel base? track width? seating area...how wide ? just wondering using your busa rail as an example now that it is welded on its wheels.
52 inside tubes seating width. 82 track.92 outside of tire to outside of tires. 120 wheelbase.
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CANT WHAT TO SEE THIS DONE. BAD ASS.
That makes 2 of us!
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Tires are BFG, KM2's . 35 tall,12.5 wide on Walker Evans 17" bead locks.
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JetHot does a damn fine job!
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looks good....what are you expecting/hoping for from that motor for tq and hp? i know that fortin can handle quite a bit
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Buckets and boat loads . Probably in the area of 750/750 +/- whatever.
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Switches and wiring will make this the only completely finished part on the car. 8) rofl Gunmetal gray powdercoat.
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Hot damn! That came out awesome!
So much to look at! How ya gunna keep this thing on/off the road?
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Just gonna close my eyes and let karma have her way.
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Just gonna close my eyes and let karma have her way.
Sounds like a fairy tale..
There are so many gizmo's in the dash the Damn thing isn't going to need ya, to go for a ride.
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TQ converter temp out...... Might want to just cover that one. All it will do is scare the shit out of you.
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Switches and wiring will make this the only completely finished part on the car. 8) rofl Gunmetal gray powdercoat.
I'm worn out and tired from just looking at it. When you going to have time to drive Wes?
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TQ converter temp out...... Might want to just cover that one. All it will do is scare the shit out of you.
This isn't my first tq converter rodeo. I ran the little dinky 7 and 8" things for years. Want to see high temps? Try them on for size. I ain't skeered. ;)
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Sounds like a fairy tale..
There are so many gizmo's in the dash the Damn thing isn't going to need ya, to go for a ride.
Sounds great. My own driverless buggy. Probably a first . LMAO
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I'm worn out and tired from just looking at it. When you going to have time to drive Wes?
Well,if I'm busy looking at gauges,I'll not be driving fast enough to pull a Handstand Harry moment........................... ;) ;) ;D
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You guys are just wishing you had A/C and heat. ;D 8) ;D
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A/C & Heat in buggy = ya getting old. rofl Come on you an't there yet.
Car is lookin great as I would expect, cant wait to spit shine it as I wipe off some drool.
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That has more gauges than than the toterhome I bet. Looks nice, but A/C? Is that ducted for the helmets? I'm guessing there is nothing plain and simple about this build.......
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That has more gauges than than the toterhome I bet. Looks nice, but A/C? Is that ducted for the helmets? I'm guessing there is nothing plain and simple about this build.......
Yep and upper body as well. A/C and heat as well. You missed the posts about that,huh.Plain and simple? LMAO LMAO
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Dash,wired with umbilical cords. Not mil spec but better than any wiring I have done so far. GXL wire,amphenol connectors and high quality spades where unavoidable. Should never have a wiring issue.
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Dash,wired with umbilical cords. Not mil spec but better than any wiring I have done so far. GXL wire,amphenol connectors and high quality spades where unavoidable. Should never have a wiring issue.
Very nice work fabr! I see you have labels for all the wires also.
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Labels are a must. Several years ago I bought a Dymo wiring label maker. Uses nylon tape and 3m adhesive. Very durable.
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Where did you say you buy the connectors? Do they require special tools to connect the wires?
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I bought from Delcity but Waytek is a good source as well. There are a lot of other places. The Amphenol AT series mate directly to Duetsch DT series connectors also. They take a $40 crimper made for the pins and sockets to properly crimp.
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i like those connectors and dash wiring looks good....very clean!
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Working on the rest being as neatly done. A/C is in and vac pulled last night. Pulled 28inches almost immediately and zero bleed off even after all night. Guess those braided lines and reusable hose ends work pretty well. I've heard all kinds of horror stories about them but so far ,so good. I'll see after it gets charged if there's any issue.
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Depends on the braided line. I have used the teflon stuff before with good results. One truck is going on 15yrs and still working fine. Usually the condensers get fubared before the lines go. They were not meant to take that kind of abuse.........
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Yep,SFAIK the teflon lined is the only kind for AC use. I'd agree the condenser is a weak spot.
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Well,it appears I did the wiring with no fubar moments. The thing has all the circuits working,and the starter cranks it. Hell,I might fire this thing up this week. Brake lines are all ran,time to bleed.
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Well you still have time to change your mind and bring it to Idaho. The wind blows and the sand is super smooth.
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I wish but,it isn't likely to happen this fall. Too many irons in the fire. It might hit LS though.
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I sure hope so! Otherwise it's like the mythical unicorn, talked about and seen pics but never in person. Lol
Stay steady and out of the house work y'all make it.
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The house got put back on the back burner about 3 months ago.
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it would be nice to see and even nicer to go for a ride in ;) ;)
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No guarantees but very possible.
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hmmmmm i hope so!
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99.9% done but for final body work. Waiting for fuel pressure regulator that won't be here till probably Tuesday. Wednesday should be fire up day.
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Woohoo! So looks like a sand party next month??
I'm mentally ready, no to just get my ass physically ready...........................
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IF all is fine on fire up I see real hope for it to make it to LS for some shake down runs.
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99.9% done but for final body work. Waiting for fuel pressure regulator that won't be here till probably Tuesday. Wednesday should be fire up day.
You must be busy because the progress pictures have been lacking lately 5: So, I think we will need a video of the "engine run". Can't wait to see the beast in person. I may have to make a run to LS this fall
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Busy? Hmmmmm,yup and that's understating it.
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Finally hit the scales.Any guesses on it's weight? Front/rear? Total?
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Total guess is 2465#s with a 60/40 split heavy on the rear.
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60/40 is correct.
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I am guessing closer to 3500.
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A post from the beginning of this project.
Thanks. I target 3000 pounds +/- . I'd be happy with 3000-3200#'s.
tubing 800#
hubs f&r 200#
wheels/tires(heavy mofos) 500#
transaxle 200#
engine 600#
seats 120#
shocks/bypasses/coils 250#
fuel tanks/dry sump stuff 150#
That's over 2800ish # right there with a wild ass guesses at weights
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I am guessing closer to 3500.
right numbers,wrong order.
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3050
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I think I hit my 3K target pretty close. I hadn't figured for body then. It will add 100 pounds to it. Take the heavy ass dirt tires off and it will lose well over 200 pounds.
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well 3k lbs is a fair number for a v8 and knowing how stout you build your frames. hope to see it at ls!
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The busa rail was around 1800 if I remember correct? I was 1000lbs, for wild guess.
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Busarail is 1800 with sand tires and 2000 with dirt tires. I'm really pleased with the 3050 for this car. Many had said it would top 3500. This was never intended to be a light sand car.
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FOOK!!! !!! !!!! $770 for 8 flocking springs! Hope the hell I chose better this time than on blue car. Probably learned a bit since then tho. Have some really accurate corner weights this time. rofl
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yep they are damn proud of them lol i bet you have it pretty damn close to the mark or close enough a slight valving adjustment will take car of it.
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Yep,I added weight to driver seat and alky tank to get it as near to actual operating weight as I could ,then reweighed it before ordering .
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I've used anplumbing.com for years and always been happy. The last 2 orders though have been slow ship and not shipped complete. This time it will be 2 weeks getting the order completed. BS. Everything should have been here yesterday to complete the fuel system for the efi. But noooooooo,it'll be next week before it is all here. I think I may be looking for a better supplier next project.
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I've used anplumbing.com for years and always been happy. The last 2 orders though have been slow ship and not shipped complete. This time it will be 2 weeks getting the order completed. BS. Everything should have been here yesterday to complete the fuel system for the efi. But noooooooo,it'll be next week before it is all here. I think I may be looking for a better supplier next project.
I've had extremely good luck with Summit and Jeg's. The only hurdle is figuring out how they use the Aeroquip, Russell, or Earl's number in their stocking system. Rarely have they ever back ordered anything and you can't beat the speed of the shipping.....
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I use jegs and summit all the time but they don't have all the weird stuff. For me ,jegs gets stuff here in 4 days and summit about 6 days. ANplumbing .com has always been about 5 days to a week and about 10% cheaper than either jegs or summit. I did get a shipping notice late last night showing usps priority number and balance of the order will be here Saturday. That's more like it,only 4 days. Perhaps lately they are just having employee issues,it happens.
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Summit is only 2 days for me as it comes out of Reno. Jegs is usually a bit longer as it comes from Ohio. You must live in the middle of nowhere ;D
All kidding aside I was just offering up options but then why am I not surprised you already thought of them.................
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Summit is always 6 days for me and since I'm in the middle of no where and Jegs is also,Jeg's is fastest of all. Of course,there's always next day air,$$$$$$$,in a pinch. Thanks for the suggestions though! I really like the anplumbing.com website shopping , easy to find everything,saves a bunch of time ordering and they've always in the past been really reliable and as fast as summit is for me. Hope they work out their issues. I will say the guys were a bit upset sounding when I explained what I have experienced the last 2 orders.
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Plumbing stuff for me sucks, because most of the time you have to build and get everything placed then see which fitting, angle, adapter you need. Then I usually have to make another order or stop by local place. But Summit, if ships from S Atlanta warehouse is next day.
But what caught my eye was.
. I think I may be looking for a better supplier next project.
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There's always a next one :) We all here have a mental disorder. Bigger, Faster, more better :)
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Lance you are sooo right. I'm waiting on a verdict on ya new rear end. I'm not confident my current one will support my plans.
Moar, moar, moar
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Plumbing stuff for me sucks, because most of the time you have to build and get everything placed then see which fitting, angle, adapter you need. Then I usually have to make another order or stop by local place. But Summit, if ships from S Atlanta warehouse is next day.
But what caught my eye was.
1:
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prob only oredered from summit couple times and same with jegs.........never needed too on brake lines or fittings since i can just stop at speedway motors main wharehouse and show room on my way home and they are open sat until noon too so real easy and same day lol
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You lead a charmed life my friend!
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nope and i don't have carl luck ;) ;) just fortunate that speedways home is in lincoln ne on my way out of town going home lol
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That is about the only thing Lincoln has going for it from what I hear. rofl rofl rofl
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and we have kawasaki pl.gif!!!! i hear and it appears the best welfare benefits in the U.S. bs1
rofl rofl
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Oh ,so, you guys are the welfare state we are always hearing about? :m
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DS likes the welfare folks at work. They have extra money(yours & mine) to spends on car shit!. You should hear him rant. LMAO rofl LMAO
Hey the Interstate that goes west to St A goes thru Lincoln, thats pretty good. But you can go around too, so thats better.
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oh ya those fooking good for nothing worthless mother sdfaer lkjadf uo0 oooooh i would like to kick kick 4: 4: 6: 6: :7 :7 9: 9: :slp :slp :slp to most of them
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and the best part of all is a lot of them on the program will even get there cars fixed by dhhs if they simply say its not safe for the kids to ride around in.... i mean free break jobs or free tires or free oil change or free windshields and door glass's etc etc free to them that is cause the state pays for it and its only foreigners or women with kids and none of them have jobs but always say they need there car back because they have places they need to be till i ask....oh ya what time do you have to be at work so i know how long i have to fix it rofl then the story changes
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oh ya those fooking good for nothing worthless mother sdfaer lkjadf uo0 oooooh i would like to kick kick 4: 4: 6: 6: :7 :7 9: 9: :slp :slp :slp to most of them
C'mon tell us how you really feel. This PC crap is not cool!
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Fire up day is Saturday(tomorrow if all goes well). ;D ;D Wish me well. Hopefully it goes to LS Tuesday. We'll see. It's been a long road,not in any hurry.
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don't have to wish you well cause i know it will fire up no problem
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Need to weld in a drain bung in a radiator tube I forgot before filling with antifreeze. Other than that everything is go for tomorrow afternoon.
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Well,original part of shop experienced a bit of roof problems. Had to remove all the trusses and rebuild entire thing ,new trusses and all. Raised side walls to match new part and will reskin the entire thing to match new part.
Sooooo,with the starter issues and roof rebuild I just got the car back together and running. It's been about 10 years since the shop had the cackle of a nasty engine rattling walls and ear drums. I had no idea how much I had missed that. The last couple days have been a lot of fun getting the FAST EFI based and ready to start learning while driving. Maiden voyage out the door will be interesting to say the least while the EFI continues learning. So far,I'm pretty impressed with the FAST system.
I vidded it inside with the Replay but their audio did not like the decibels..................When I get it outside,I'll post some stuff.
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Get the bugs out of it and then come to Yuma for a test run.
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Dan,is there open desert riding around there? Not dunes,just desert. I'd love to see all you guys and love the winter there but, I'm not all that interested in riding Glamis/ISDRA. School me.
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Dan,is there open desert riding around there? Not dunes,just desert. I'd love to see all you guys and love the winter there but, I'm not all that interested in riding Glamis/ISDRA. School me.
Plenty of desert running north and west of Yuma. It would take you a couple of winters to see it all.
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Cool! Any of the group ride it or just duners?
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We ride with side by sides but nobody will be adle to keep up with you unless we put a 2x4 on the back side of your gas peddle. Then we might have a chance.
Plenty of riding though. You can get a permit and leave from where we live and there is all kinds of riding.
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Does leaving from your residence require a street legal/registered/well muffled vehicle? I have 2 small mufflers but it is a bit loud still.
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Depends on where you live.
In Kaliforniastan, yes, it needed all that crap and maybe more.
Kansas, hang a triangle on the back and it's farm equipment......
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Nobody checks on them out here. Shirley's old buggy does not have plates and I drive it some just to ride it.
If you want to put it on a trailer and go out farther there are more places to ride.
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I'd like to google earth the areas. Can you give me some kind of info on the areas to guide me to where you are talking about? Are the areas named or landmarks or just open territory?
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Find foothills and go straight south to the bombing range. It goes east along the Mexico border. I know there are roses or trails that you can take clear to Ajo Arizona. My friends did it with keeps but sty over night in them.
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First time out of shop.
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few more.
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Nice. going to be a rocket
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Looking pretty mean. bet it sounds tough.
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Thanks guys. Yup,should be a rocket and sounds rather nasty for sure. I need to get some miles on it to let the self tuning get it's act together . It takes a bit for it to learn ,as expected, and gets better all the time. Probably have maybe an hour on it starting and idling and now I just hit the key and it starts right up just like a new car. FWIW,it runs pretty bad ass already and I'm expecting much more as it tunes itself over the next few days and weeks. It's been a long 10 years since I sat with several hundred HP just inches behind me. I'm just all giggity giggity giggity rofl rofl
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Congrats fabr, it looks Beastly! Is that engine oil or tranny cooler in the roof? Don't wrap the engine as tight as the busa. :) hopefully we'll have some nice weather for you to put some miles on it.
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That is the A/C condenser. Tranny coolers are behind the seats. Not running an oil cooler at this time.
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i have looked at these pics a few time and followed this build. you do good work there fabr i really like the fg body!!!!! nice damn job!!
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how wide is the rear lower control arm stance at the frame? i like the bolder deflectors on the front lower a arms i'm guessing you'll need those lol were and how you like to ride that is lol
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how wide is the rear lower control arm stance at the frame? i like the bolder deflectors on the front lower a arms i'm guessing you'll need those lol were and how you like to ride that is lol
Rear arm spread is approx 15" .I'll check that later today. LOL! ,yup with the rocks and stuff I hit made the deflectors make for a bit of shock/bypass protection. Original plan was for the shocks to lay over a bit more and would have made for less protrusion below the arm. That will be changed out at tear down time. 2" shorter shocks and bypasses are in the plans and will allow much less "hang down"below the arm.
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Update. I've been chasing an intermittent mid to high rpm miss. I was getting a bit frustrated, couldn't determine if it was ignition or efi. Long story made short, I remembered the polarity has to be correct on the crank trigger so I checked out. Seems that MSD uses red as + and FAST EFI uses red as -. This thing is now officially a beast. ;D ;D 8)
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Bring it down for a test run.
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Wish I could. I really need to finish house now before next trip anywhere. Depending on when that happens I might be able to make it down before it gets hot there. When does it begin getting over 80 degrees in Yuma area?
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Sometimes end of April.
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When you leaving Yuma for the summer?
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Update. I've been chasing an intermittent mid to high rpm miss. I was getting a bit frustrated, couldn't determine if it was ignition or efi. Long story made short, I remembered the polarity has to be correct on the crank trigger so I checked out. Seems that MSD uses red as + and FAST EFI uses red as -. This thing is now officially a beast. ;D ;D 8)
why in the hell would any company use red for a ground!!!!!!!
glad you figured it out and those problems suck but sounds like it has the power you were looking for!!!!! ;D ;D
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The FAST EFI is really coming around. It just keeps running better and better. I was skeptical it could deal with the outlaw sprint car engine configuration but I'm thinking it is very capable. It just requires some time and understanding of basic tuning parameters to start from. I'd be willing to guess that those that have less than good results using it are just incapable of understanding how to use it.
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When you leaving Yuma for the summer?
I am thinking May and going to Idaho for the summer again.
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Spare time,sort of,and a wandering mind. Mesh doors,mo arm restraints. About 30 hours 5: in the two.
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Love the bowtie! 8)
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I do too.
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had a little free time for once huh lol well looks good. you've really gotten good at making the bodies too! i like the bowtie and are you going to hand paint that section red and the rest of the wire blue? or what ever color your going to paint this one. i like the blue you painted the t- bo busa
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Thanks,guys. I think the color will be the same but will use a white base under the topcoat instead of the black like I did on busa buggy. Should really make the blue pop. I don't think I'll accentuate the bowtie though. Who knows though. I still have 2 places needing attention to fit and finish but for the most part I'm pretty happy.
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Spare time,sort of,and a wandering mind. Mesh doors,mo arm restraints. About 30 hours 5: in the two.
Hard to tell but do they swing out on a hinge?
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Yes,they are hinged on the pillar and have 2 latches at front. Both latches are interconnected and operate as one. I'll get a couple pics open and of latch system.
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Hinges,cable restraint,latches and latch interconnect. Pull the hinge pins and slip the cable off it's pin and the door is off. No tools simplicity,love it!
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That is soo baddass!
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Welllll,thanks!
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OK,for a variety of reasons I didn't make St.A this year. Hope all that did had a great time! One reason was the sketchy way my dry sump pump mounts to a SBC block. All makes mount the same and all are wobbly to put it mildly. Always hated seeing the movement of the pump on my dragsters but with the short distance back to"camp" from the end of the drag strip I never really worried about it. Well ,when I got to LS this spring I just got paranoid about it. I went about moving the pump closer to the block-no improvement. For those that don't know,a SBC only has oil pan bolts and engine mount bosses. I really couldn't use the motor mount bosses since they are in use holding the motor up,duh. Oil pan bolts are only 1/4" and not in the right place to make a rear mount for the pump. Sooo,wth do I do? Finally it sank in , make a huge freeking monstrosity of an adapter for the block and added a flange to the rear of the pump. Well,not really that much a monstrousity and the thing made the pump rock solid now. Zero movement. Along the way I had to make a couple pulley flanges,buy a broach to cut the keyways , make a drive mandrel for the pulleys and some other BS. Like I said a few times fabbing things,the easiest stuff takes the longest. Oh well,it's all back together and a much better setup. Pretty bad though ,making mods before it's maiden sand run.
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Upper rear a arm frame mounts. Are those mounts removable from the frame to get the trams out?
(https://i.postimg.cc/Z0pqb8My/1-1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Z0pqb8My)
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No they are part of the permanent bulkhead that ties drivers and passenger side together. The trans will come out the back. I cadded up the trans and designed bulkhead around that. IIRC I only have approx 18" rear travel due to the spacing of the inner pivots and the lesser angle the 934's can go to which I believe is 24*. IMO,there is little ,if any, benefit of more travel unless you plan on running 3 foot deep whoops at 100MPH al trophy truck. 18" is just fine. Bypasses instead of just coilovers make the 18" work as well or better as 24" with just c/o's. What I'm blubbering about is since I needed the wide spread of the mounts to get trans out without having to pull engine I have found that the car rolls/sways less than a narrower mount would have given. With THAT said ,I know you are a fan of higher sitting and longer travel than I prefer BUT,if I were you your car would sit 6" or more lower and have bypasses all 4 corners. You would be amazed in the difference. Your cv's would love you too.
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It would not be hard to devise a way to make removable ,however,I like it this way better.
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I like the way you built that back end. Always have and thought I would look through the pics. It looked welded but not easy to view on my phone for some reason. I have 2 tabs left to tack weld and drivers side is all mocked up on mine. I had to make a fixture to extend my crude fixture to find a arm pivots that match that of the wheel bearing carriers. I know you have plunging axles , so less critical then in my case. Hard to tell from the pic but it looks like you matched your carriers well.
Yes I like a little higher stance. Yes I like a little more travel. Yes external by pass coupled with a coil over are best. I have internal bypass 2.5' for the front and am looking for the same for the rear. I have the 2.5 c/o set off the krx, they are not internally bypassed. Did learn that a 2.5 internally bypassed shock is actually only a 2.0 inside. I am looking at 3.0 internally bypassed as a result but thats on a back burner at this time.
As far as wheel travel goes, I want the front end level to 2" higher then the rear. So my plan is to set the rear 2" lower and mount shock as close to the wheel as I can. 15" stroke shock and the 3.0 I find will be 15" as well. 15" because of a rubber bump stop on the shaft. For this reason , I am aiming for only 20" travel in the rear. I do not have room for external bypass and a coil over on the front or rear.
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Got a couple ideas to connect the top with a removable cross brace. Just not sure how I want to do that yet as I ran into fabricators block lol thats what prompted the visit to your build pics. My fuel tank has to sit on top of the trans so my cross bars have to incorporate the fuel tank tray as well.
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I like the way you built that back end. Always have and thought I would look through the pics. It looked welded but not easy to view on my phone for some reason. I have 2 tabs left to tack weld and drivers side is all mocked up on mine. I had to make a fixture to extend my crude fixture to find a arm pivots that match that of the wheel bearing carriers. I know you have plunging axles , so less critical then in my case.No,I do not have plunging axles.the only plunge with these 934 non plunging cv's is the spline in the star. I designed it with zero theoretical plunge.Ended up with approx 1/8" real world.Busa buggy had the plunging axles but were not needed and haven;t ever slipped.Was a waste of money/time.Hard to tell from the pic but it looks like you matched your carriers well. I cadded up the pivot points for both inner and outer to align with center of star.
Yes I like a little higher stance. Yes I like a little more travel. Yes external by pass coupled with a coil over are best. I have internal bypass 2.5' for the front and am looking for the same for the rear. I have the 2.5 c/o set off the krx, they are not internally bypassed. Did learn that a 2.5 internally bypassed shock is actually only a 2.0 inside. I am looking at 3.0 internally bypassed as a result but thats on a back burner at this time.
As far as wheel travel goes, I want the front end level to 2" higher then the rear. So my plan is to set the rear 2" lower and mount shock as close to the wheel as I can. 15" stroke shock and the 3.0 I find will be 15" as well. 15" because of a rubber bump stop on the shaft. For this reason , I am aiming for only 20" travel in the rear. I do not have room for external bypass and a coil over on the front or rear.Somehow,I knew you would say something like that................. ;D ;D ;D FWIW I think that preference is due to your experience with the airshox that probably necessitated that much travel due to their limitations.
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The reason I don't hVe room for 2 shocks per corner is because I don't want to cut back farther into the frame as well as where my exh is routed. I need to get this done and enjoy it. I did make some good progress yesterday before my eye injection. Yes I had to get another one. Only made it 4 months since the last one. Looking like they will become a life long routine. Not happy about that either. Took a lot of adjustment ,trials and scrap pieces but I am getting slightly better at welding right handed with only a left eye. Didnt the any pics of the progress yesterday either. All the mounts are in place to mock up the left a arms so I can make some jig fixtures off of them. The upper a arm is wider at the frame than anticipated but I have my reasons for it.
I like air shocks and always will. Price, weight and ease of tuning is un matched imo. You are correct, there are limitations. For Oklahoma they work just fine but I'm out of the weight class in the 2.5' on my rear. You cannot leverage an air shock as much as you can a coil over. That depends on the weight too. On the front I wouldn't hesitate on a 2/1 factor and would prob try 2.5 /1. In the rear, 1.5/ 1 might be the better ratio.
Thats not why I want these as close to the wheels as I can. Thats dues to a spacing thing that ill know more about once I get the a arm made. Its a guess at this point but a guess based on where my shock will have to mount.