broken

[fabr]

The tripod ,under load, stuck in the cup and as the suspension continued to cycle something had to give. It happened to be that the bearing flanges were the weakest link. It's really pretty simple. There's NOTHING else that would do it.

[Voodoochikin04]

so could the tripod have failed inside the cup and that caused it not plunge when the suspension was cycled?

 on another note. what should i do now?  everything is built for these axles. keep running the same setup but lessen the angle at full droop?  i plan on getting some big shocks with rezzies i found.. if they are not blown..

[fabr]

I'd say the tripod went past the limits and cocked in the cup.  Lessen the droop and hope for the best.

[Carlriddle]

I'd say the tripod went past the limits and cocked in the cup.  Lessen the droop and hope for the best.

+1
 
Can you move the shock out towards the wheel more?  It would decrease the angle some and make the shock a bit stiffer.

Oh I remember something:  Grippier tires more likly to break stuff. Sorry

[Voodoochikin04]

anyone wanna buy some badass pretty much brand new 22x12-10 kenda bear claw tires?  lol  they look awesome. $130 plus shipping...

[Voodoochikin04]

so which would be better?

1. 4 bolt bearing

2. pillow

[Nutz4sand]

You would have to make adaptors for the pillow block bearings and the adaptor and footprint may or may not be too wide.


The flange bearings woyuld go up against the flat part of your center carrier support and at worse need a hole or two drilled. I would go this way myself.

Lessening the travel would help IF you stay with these tripods.

IF you could find a regular type VW CVs (German) that matched the axle splines (if they exist as I do not know the spline counts of the s-10 shaft or the cv's off the top of my head) you could simply make new inner adaptors that bolt to where your S-10 axles do and bolt the new CV's to them. 

It MIGHT be worth the little trouble to simply get VW cv axles and hook them to the center and mod the rear hubs as needed.

Beats going thru this again IMO.



 

[Nutz4sand]

Of note is the bearings you used hug the metal they are mounted to VERY closely. Actually inside it a tad.

Even cast iron flange bearings move the bearing to the outside of the metal they are mounted to. Wll you have enough room? Measure before you buy! 

[Voodoochikin04]

well if i use the pillow blocks, then i would just torch out my center carrier plates... if i use the 4bolt flange bearings, i would just mount them on the inside of the plates so i would still have the room..   ive been tempted to just cut apart the whole rear end and do one good design, thats not 3 or 4 revisions all bundled together..


thanks to everyone who racked their brain and contributed to figuring out what happened.

[fabr]

well if i use the pillow blocks, then i would just torch out my center carrier plates... if i use the 4bolt flange bearings, i would just mount them on the inside of the plates so i would still have the room..   ive been tempted to just cut apart the whole rear end and do one good design, thats not 3 or 4 revisions all bundled together..


thanks to everyone who racked their brain and contributed to figuring out what happened.

Yup,go for it. We know you can do it.

[Voodoochikin04]

HUGE THANKS TO DOUG HEIM!!!!!!!!! WHO DONATED A NEW SPROCKET TO MY REBUILD. 

some updates. i bought some cast iron 4bolt flange bearings. another cv axle. got my brake rotor straightened.  and torched off 90% of my rear end. cut new bearing holder plates. i think im gonna go the air shock route again but the exact same way that pavneck from mini buggy- "750 viraggo buggy" did his. gonna make the rear end stiffer, with less full droop angle. considering thats probably what killed the rear end. im gonna redo my idler so it sits way far down and provides the least amount of chain redirection as possible.