Author Topic: Chain Heat Testing  (Read 6693 times)

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Offline dsrace

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Re: Chain Heat Testing
« Reply #45 on: June 25, 2009, 02:41:42 PM »
standfast   what is the distance from the center of your front sprocket to the center of your rear sprocket?   
« Last Edit: June 25, 2009, 03:17:05 PM by Dsrace »
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Offline dsrace

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Re: Chain Heat Testing
« Reply #46 on: August 24, 2009, 09:56:36 PM »
have you done anymore testing?
" the less talent they have, the more pride, vanity and arrogance they have. All these fools, however, find other fools who applauded them " .    ERASMUS 1509

chrishallett83

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Re: Chain Heat Testing
« Reply #47 on: August 25, 2009, 02:27:56 AM »
You guys all have way more experience than me,but i just cant see air replacing lubricant when it comes to metal rubbing metal.

Nice job standfast.

Make a quick "case "out of clear plexi(so you can still take the temp readings) and run the test with the chain running in some Amsoil.

Limed for 'I agree with this guy'. Blowing air is more complex and less effective than just whacking it in an oil bath.

Offline Nutz4sand

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Re: Chain Heat Testing
« Reply #48 on: August 25, 2009, 07:53:00 AM »
Limed for 'I agree with this guy'. Blowing air is more complex and less effective than just whacking it in an oil bath.

I will agree withthe less effective perhaps but its not really more complex is it?
Your mission isn't to dive feet first into hell, but to make sure its crowded when you get there.

chrishallett83

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Re: Chain Heat Testing
« Reply #49 on: August 25, 2009, 02:18:36 PM »
Well if you can weld and hammer some sheet steel, all you need is a couple of spare shaft seals and a couple of hours work to make up a simple tin box with a plug in the bottom and a filler cap at the top. Fill it with oil and forget about it until you need to change the oil or check the chain.

If you wanna get real fancy and 'bling', hook up with Doug or one of the other flash machinists around this place and have something machined up from billet alloy, with some sexy heat dispersing fins on it and get the whole thing chrome-plated to really blow peoples sunglasses off their faces.

As for the air method, you need fans, ducting, power supply taken from the harness, switching for the power supply etc. etc. etc. And after all that, yes, you may reduce the temperature of the chain, but you are still missing two other advantages of the oil bath - the chain is always lubricated, and it is out of the mud and sand, so it will wear much slower.
« Last Edit: August 25, 2009, 02:20:36 PM by chrishallett83 »

Offline Nutz4sand

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Re: Chain Heat Testing
« Reply #50 on: August 25, 2009, 02:26:46 PM »
lol I think your overstating ones toughness and understating the others easiness a bit... :]

I agree it would be better contained and in oil. But to contain it next to the motor would be tough.

Its why I have said in the past many times I think it would be best to use a shaft to get it away from the motor. Then seal it in the oil box. Then run another shaft out to the RPM or the Honda tranny or whatever.

The air pumps would not be near as effective but would pretty easy. Once the pump was mounted (toughest part) you tap a 12 volt wire and run a hose to the chains area.
Your mission isn't to dive feet first into hell, but to make sure its crowded when you get there.

 

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